tow combo for rockys

About 90 Degrees Valve Overlap Phil on the CC P290 B6 Flat tappet Race Solid.
Gave 290-310 psi Cranking Compression.
I like them Wild.

425 Olds Cam Ron Iskenderian picked out himself & had custom ground for me.
 
I don't know if I'm reading these right but I don't see these in the ballpark of where we were discussing.

BTW I use hydroboost.
 

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Received this from Crower- THE Crower;) best response to date. I like the second cam and the price is decent as well.

Hello :) thanks for calling Crowercams looking for hydraulic roller 383 small block 384.57 in.³ 10 to 1 compression* towing power range low – midrange , thanks for supplying cylinder head airflow information at .400 lift 253 intake 190 exhaust at 500 lift to 76 intake .207 exhausts good choice. Take a look at these numbers.
Specifications: part number #00463 or 00463 LM camshaft only cost $315
255° intake 264° exhaust advertised duration at .006
204° intake 213° exhausts duration of .050
.484 intake .505 exhausts
LC 110° these are 2 endurance cam lobe designs not race profiles performance:
366.07 hp at 5000 RPM power range 1500 – 5500
461.59 foot-pounds of torque at 3312 RPM
this is an extremely high torque profile excellent in tow vehicle.

Camshaft number 2 part number #00464 or 00464 LM
264° intake 273° exhaust advertised duration
213° intake 221° exhaust duration of .050
.505 intake .525 exhausts
LC 110°
performance:
389.11 hp at 5250 RPM
462.00 foot-pounds of torque at 3489 RPM

E CFM 715.2: engine cubic feet per minute air@horsepower RPM
LBS./Air/HR.: 2565.2: pounds of air per hour@horsepower RPM.
B. S. A. C.: 6.592 break specific air consumption. The pounds of area requires to make a horsepower per hour.

Please identify the type of cam, is the engine equipped with factory hydraulic rollers or regular flat tappet's hydraulics, I'm concerned about the nose on the cam or late-model factory hydraulic roller would be step nose on the cam 1st 1stJournal
we can discuss the various components are going to need after we established cam profile, I am recommending beehive style spring with lightweight billet retainer or inch .290 diameter dual spring with lightweight billet retainer. If you want to change any of the operating power range that I've listed let me know or answer any other questions you may have. Dave Crower 619-606-0997.with
you can always go to a 1.6 rocker intake and exhaust which increases the overall performance for small amount at approximately .030 valve lift and 3 – 4° of increase area. We have these if you want them
 
I would likely choose the 1st Crower Cam Profile.
204 Intake. 213 Exhaust @ .050"

GET CAM SPECS FROM CAM CARDS. CROWER HAS ONLINE.
IVO
IVC
EVO
EVC


How I compare Cams.
Best way.

I would use Dual Valve Springs.
My personal preference .

Smaller durartion cam will be easier to tune.
Run Nice -20 F to 110 F all weather conditions.
Peak power usefull passing on highway only with a Pickup & Towing.
 
Existing Flow Tech Inductions cam in 350: 210/214-525/530 (1.5)@110, little noisy was running 1.6 rockers now 1.5, little concerned about cam material- this would be cast and with the AFR I have using 150lb springs. When apart will have the lobes inspected- the builder already suggested stepping down in springs for reliability- AFR up sold me on the springs. If I keep this cam, may step the intake up with 1.6. I'm interested in keeping towing capability- but truck is used primarily for 95% daily driver. (I didn't pick the title;)

Crane as suggested 109671 219/224-509/528@112 .900in billet core $490, I know GM used some of their products, so it must be first rate.
Crower 00464 213/221-505/525@110 cast core $315 endurance rather than typical race lobe style.
Jones LT1 HR 224/224-510/510@114 billet core $441. Jones is quite active in Yellowbullet.
I have used beehive's in the past but like others think dual has a safety margin if a spring breaks.
 
Its a daily driver. Don't experiment.
Crane or Crower.
I like Isky most of the time.

Seen lots of off brand cams fail. Not user setup error.
Fails you bought it. Engine Toast.
 
keep in mind because your operating at higher altitudes your engine can effectively tolerate a bit more compression that you would get by with at sea level simply because the air your compressing is effectively less dense, thus theres less actually being compressed in the cylinder
 
A Billet Cam is not always superior to a cast cam like most think.
A cast cam often has a Harder Deep Rockwell Test results.
Flame Hardened Lobes. Deep Chilled in Liquid Nitrogen.
Billet Steel cams require a special metal spray process of Tungsten Alloy to give same or better Rockwell hardness as A Isky or Crower or Crane Cast Cam lobes...$$$$.
Facts not known or talked about.
 
I understand that each manufacturer will produce a competitive cam- take your pick I wouldn't know the difference, so for me it track record speaks louder as customer service does little for after a failure. Lunati had some interesting grinds, I like the Crane but the $$ are high as is the quality, I didn't contact Isky but their catalogue didn't impress me, Crower has a solid name for quality and the info supplied was quite detailed. Next week I'll know which way to swing on displacement. What I think on material quality is what will serve the application for many miles and money saved can be shifted around, Scat 9000 crank, Scat 7/16 cap screw 5.7 rods, pistons unknown- I previously bought Mahle as the power pak was a good value, somebody insists Wiseco are superior, all I know is I try but do not always succeed in avoiding Chinese/mexican components. I do believe that street applications are harder on an engine than competition ALL things considered- so I choose accordingly.
Any experience with coated bearings- I understand they will help in cold starts/oil starvation and gapless rings for street. towing application was going over the rockies when moving from BC to Alberta, last time rented a diesel truck, but call it that kind of towing infrequent but would rather build for it now and keep the $1500 rental in my pocket.
 
I don't think Coated Main, Rod, & Cam bearings are necessary in your application.
Its a Good idea uf your in the 700-1400 HP Power range.

I like gapless rings but are they necessary on a daily driver.
Not really. Unless the installer follows all directions he will have problems.
How they got a bad rap with many.
Retards Dont Read Directuions.

All out Competition Engines work very hard.
Tow engines do to. But at a lower power band range.
 
Also...
Can't be a Cam Expert till you used many different manufactures cams in all types of engines.
Street to all out Race.
And use an Isky Camshaft.
Isky does more with Less.
 
What a waste of Mahle pistons- found out that other than the decks not matching, 7 pistons were sloppy in the bore- when operating temp wasn't noisy and he said the rings were fine. Going with the 385 option, Crane 109671, and looking at dished pistons for a 9.5- 9.8:1 static- he seems to like Speed Pro hypers (for this build) with a full dish and a good skirt, asked him to also look at Autotec pistons.
 
tight lsa and big overlap tend to mess with factory fuel injection alot because of the rough idle... if you have a standalone (you can get a completely programmable haltech that literaly uses your factory harness and takes the place of your current ECM) you dont have to worry about that BS and you can tune right into it just like you can tune the idle on a carb application. high performance and factory fuel injection are really two mutually exclusive things... without complete tunability of every programmer and input of every factory (and more) sensors... you are always going to compromise and leave power on the table.
 
Something to look a is Evans Coolant, propylene glycol. boiling point is 375 F & is good for -40, which may not be enough for you in the NWT.But careful control of air flow to the rad will work. I know this from experience. Here ya are Dave, More research to do ! I'm sure you will learn some thing interesting with this stuff.
 
Hello Ron- don't know if you have been getting my emails. Nice site you have, good to know you have a sense of humour;)

I chose to use Evans on my Toyota 22R turbo to boost the octane tolerance- but it is expensive and not allot of people I know use it- Daves Diesel in Alberta is who I was dealing with. I just cover the whole rad in cardboard- always an eye on the temp gauge but no issues so far.
 
i had read alot on the evans glycol many moons ago and it never seemed to gain any speed with the performance crowd i know here locally... i wish i knew someone who could really testify to its benefits (if any measurable ones were to be had)
 
I guess most people think it's too expensive. I haven't driven the Toyota yet, but I put it in on advice of a track guy- but that was planned in a normal compression engine with turbo- I traded it off for a turbo engine but still decided to go ahead and use the coolant anyway- we'll see.
 
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