Truck advice.

mathd

mathd

solid fixture here in the forum
Well, looking for a 4x4 diesel truck for hunting and long road trip(and probably for towing)
Looking at 2 truck currently.(the only 2 4x4 diesel that i could find in the price range)
a 1998 chevy C/K 1500 pickup with the 6.5 turbo diesel(yes am aware of the FSD/Fuel Supply Driver problem on those models) for 2000$ negotiable with 217 000 miles
and a 1995 Ford F-250 with the 7.3 turbo diesel and the seller said it need a mastercylinder and is 1800$ negotiable with 197 000 miles

Am really heading toward the ford right now, but the seller is working the week so i have to wait until the next weekend before i can see the truck...
I did not call the seller for the chevy yet, so hope it wont sell(or is not sold already) before i can see the ford.

What is your advice? should avoid the chevy at all and look for ford and dodge?.
Should i call and get to see the chevy truck?
Any advice as to what to check when buying on of those two models?

Let me know what YOU would be doing :)
 
I hate to say this but if limited to the two choices you listed ,Id think the ford is probably the better choice, I had a F350 for about 8 years and it got pretty crappy 15 mpg on the high way but other than normal ware items it was a decent truck most of the time,< I would suggest having a good mechanic you trust check out the basics like brakes, engine, suspension, not so much as a bargaining tool but so you know what needs replacing before you buy.
get the truck up on a lift and inspect the frame and suspension carefully, you don,t want a truck at any cost if the frames 75% rusted thru, so just check.
any truck with 200k miles will need suspension parts replaced if they were not replaced already, like shocks, fuel and oil and air filters, ball joints u-joints wheel bearings, belts hoses, brakes etc. so expect that its normal maintenance

read these links

viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318&p=18620&hilit=carfax#p18620



viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4598&p=12268&hilit=carfax#p12268
 
When they get that old, buy the best truck, the 6.5 will give you as many miles as the Ford if you do the few upgrades that everyone does to them. The power of the Chevy can be impressive once you get the little issues that GM didn't address, fixed. But like I said, whichever is the better truck now would be my choice.
 
Thanks for the advice,
I have seen one more truck, it looks to be a 94-95 F-250 with the 7.3 powerstroke again and its 4 door. Just need to wait the phone reply since the truck was not really for sale it was just standing unused in the yard of a business but the owner seem really positive abuot selling it, he just need to check its value and if they really dont need it anymore.
Will keep you updated (probably with pictures :) ) about wich one ill get.
 
Ok i had no reply for the 4 door F-250,
the other F-250 that was being sold by a kid... he called and told me he decided to keep it..
the chevy with 217 000 miles.. i didnt go to take a look, it was a few hours of drive and i found another one with 170 000 miles.

This one is we got a 1994 chevy GM4(1500 pickup 4x4) 6.5 turbo diesel/auto trans with 170 000 miles.
It has new battery, new glow plug, new lift pump, new injector pump
Interior is very clean everything is working properly (a/c and so on)and i have the sheetmetal for both rocket panel and extension cab.
Only little problem is the trubo wastegate actuator is shot(because of a loose battery cable that shorted to it) and i have to setup a little heat sink to the pmd/fsd.. they already moved it but without a heat sink.(we did get this one)
DSCN0685.jpg


let me know what your thinking.
 
you hardly can go wrong with a running truck for $2k, but looking at that picture, Id pull that truck in the shop and at least , mask off or remove ,paint and reinstall that front fender to match the rest of the truck., and polish out the fogged head light covers and Id be thinking of painting the whole truck.
you look like you got a really nice project truck,
IM kind of jealous I rarely see trucks in what appears to be good condition for $2k around here
Im not much of a paint & body guy, I do mostly engine mods and tuning, brakes and rear differentials etc.
but after seeing my brother-in-law do the body work and paint his corvette Ive got to say he saved about 80% of what a pro job would have cost, and while he got a bit less than a pro quality job, his results were certainly acceptable.

viewtopic.php?f=61&t=6966&hilit=corvette+1974+paint
 

Does look clean from the picture you posted. In that part of the world, you just can't get away
from rust I suppose.

Did you get the package deal ?
[Package deal - "FSD Heat Sync Kit" includes - New HD PMD, Heat-Sync, and Calibration resistor for $350.00.]

 
Thanks for the comments.
Both front fender where changed, will be repainting them in the next few month i dont know if will do a complete paint job or just the fender and cab extension/rocker panel yet.
Good advice on the headlight polishing, will buy a headlight polishing kit and get the job done soon.

There is always 2 or 3 4x4 diesel truck for sale around for 2000$ or less usually they are in good condition.. but they sell really fast, too often i call and.. its sold already(especially ford, they sell really fast) dodge diesel are hard to find used.

Its impossible to get away from rust around here(except if you summer drive only the vehicule), its not really the snow but mostly the calcium(and it seem like most newer car rust really easily, i often see 2 or 3 years old car with rust wich didnt happen that quick in the older models), the damage are not too serious with this one, its just the rocker and extension cab, the bed/inner fender/underside floor and frame are all perfect :)

Yes we did get the package with the HD PMD, heat sync and calibration resistor(#9) :/ the current PMD is working but it did overhead some so i was not going to risk using it and needing a tow.
I had a little hard time finding the wastegate actuator, the chevy dealership quoted 625$ for the part and it was backorder.. no one could get it locally so i got a new one for 55$ shipped from ebay.
 
Ok, i did the light polish i used the kit from mothers with the pwoerball, works great and its a good improvement.
Did an oil change, air and oil filter change too, cecked the coolant and trans oil and they are fine.
I also did setup some clear fog/driving light, they are dual 55watt each, i used 2 relay and a 3 position switch with a wiring of my own wich allow me to have low intensity (2 bulb in serie each side) on the fog light or full intensity(all bulb in parallel). its like a hi/off/low beam switch but for the fog lamp only. Didnt see many people with this kind of setup, i do thing its cool and feel it will be usefull.

I noticed some kind of inconsistent pinging after it idle for 30-sec to a minute... i though it was some injector sticking but it idle fine and no smoke so i put some DieselKleen into the fuel tank and i fixed the loose lower heatshield on the passenger side, the starter bracket that hold it was missing(found it in the wheel arm) and fixed the 2 driverside injector lines the connector/clip was just hanging down on some wire.
I taken a ride, didnt let it idle very much but i didnt hear any pinging at all so hopefully that fixed it..

Now i noticed both rear wheel was leaking oil, checked brake fluid and it was fine so checked the rear differential removed the fill plug and i could not touch oil with my little finger as far in as possible.
So i guess am in need of rear wheel seal replacement.

I dont know if i will get the job done myself or get it at the shop, i know how to get the job done(never done it but i have access to "ALLDATA" wich is a software with all service manual for vehicule), just am scared of breaking the pinion shaft bolt into the carrier(heard much horror story about this one). Any advice are welcome.
Also, while am at it, should we get the wheel bearing replaced or just the seals?(and anything to check for unusual wear caused by lack of lubrication?). There is no apparent strange noise in the back.. but its a diesel the engine is kinda loud so its hard to tell.

The check engine also light so i checked the code using a paper clip on the aldl/ODB-I connector shorting pin a and b(always put and remove the clip with key off to avoid voltage spike that could damage the pcm) i got some EGR code. i guess i will have to check the vacuum lines because when i fixed the wastegate actuator, it wasnt working because the vacuum line has some water/liquid into it.
Again advice are all welcome.

Here is a "how to" on reading obd-I codes
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16399

So far truck run great :)
 
mathd said:
Ok, i did the light polish i used the kit from mothers with the pwoerball, works great and its a good improvement.
Did an oil change, air and oil filter change too, cecked the coolant and trans oil and they are fine.
I also did setup some clear fog/driving light, they are dual 55watt each, i used 2 relay and a 3 position switch with a wiring of my own wich allow me to have low intensity (2 bulb in serie each side) on the fog light or full intensity(all bulb in parallel). its like a hi/off/low beam switch but for the fog lamp only. Didnt see many people with this kind of setup, i do thing its cool and feel it will be usefull.

You should post a circuit diagram if you have one.

I noticed some kind of inconsistent pinging after it idle for 30-sec to a minute... i though it was some injector sticking but it idle fine and no smoke so i put some DieselKleen into the fuel tank and i fixed the loose lower heatshield on the passenger side, the starter bracket that hold it was missing(found it in the wheel arm) and fixed the 2 driverside injector lines the connector/clip was just hanging down on some wire.
I taken a ride, didnt let it idle very much but i didnt hear any pinging at all so hopefully that fixed it..

Now i noticed both rear wheel was leaking oil, checked brake fluid and it was fine so checked the rear differential removed the fill plug and i could not touch oil with my little finger as far in as possible.
So i guess am in need of rear wheel seal replacement.

I dont know if i will get the job done myself or get it at the shop, i know how to get the job done(never done it but i have access to "ALLDATA" wich is a software with all service manual for vehicule), just am scared of breaking the pinion shaft bolt into the carrier(heard much horror story about this one). Any advice are welcome.

If it's only leaking at the wheels, then why would you be worried about the pinion.

If it has the inspection plate on the back of the center section of the rear end, then it should be pretty close to what I did and posted in this thread. It turned out to be easier than I was thinking before I started.

Replacing Rear Axle Seals
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=5756


Also, while am at it, should i get the wheel bearing replaced or just the seals?(and anything to check for unusual wear caused by lack of lubrication?). There is no apparent strange noise in the back.. but its a diesel the engine is kinda loud so its hard to tell.

You won't know what it needs for sure until you get in there and can inspect the bearing surfaces.
Click to expand...
 
Rick

Am going to make a wiring diagram just right now after i read your rear axle seal replacement topic..
I dont worry about the pinion but the shaft, see this thread:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107063

I think i will give a try at doing the job myself, will order the parts this thuesday being carefull with the 3/4 pinion shaft bolt.

thanks

EDIT: i jsut added the wiring schematic for the Dual intensity fog/driving lamp.
the SPDT is a 3 position on/off/on switch.
 

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mathd said:
Rick

Am going to make a wiring diagram just right now after i read your rear axle seal replacement topic..

I dont worry about the pinion but the shaft, see this thread:
http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107063

When you said "pinion shaft", I was thinking you meant the "pinion gear shaft". I see now what you are referring to. I didn't even know it was a problem and never had any trouble on mine.


I think i will give a try at doing the job myself, will order the parts this thuesday being carefull with the 3/4 pinion shaft bolt.

thanks

EDIT: i jsut added the wiring schematic for the Dual intensity fog/driving lamp.
the SPDT is a 3 position on/off/on switch.

Thanks for posting that nice clear drawing, it's going to help someone down the road.
Click to expand...
 
 
Ok i started the rear differential work.
Apparently the seal where changed already so i taken the fill plug out and pushed some air in with my mouth, we could hear the air escaping by the axle seal also there where a veryslight slack on the axle.
I had some problem getting the c-clip out once i find out that i dont have to push on them but to pull them with a magnet life seemed much easier...

I checked the axle there is a very slight groove toward the seal side, bearing look fine but i will check again tomorrow.

I could not get the seal out i tryed with a flat head screwdriver but those bastard are in there tight.

Now i guess its best to replace the axle or get some axle saver bearing?(if i can get those axle saver bearing from the local parts store) how much is too much?.

Now i guess i need thisk ind of tool to pull the seal and bearings out?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4 ... ?locale=en
 
Update, talked to a local friend mechanic, he said since the axle has a very very slight groove its worth giving a try at just changing the seals. much less expensive then a set of axle(250$ each)

Also i noticed the vent hose for the differentien is plugged with a cap on its end and it seem clogged(diff do not evacuate air pressure)??? is this normal?, i feel like this is what caused the exle seal to fail.
 
if you have the axles out, and the wear realiy is fairly minor ID polish the worn area the seal rides on with 1200 grit sand paper, clean the axles carefully, replace the axle lube and clear out the vent, then replace the seals, Ive seen that work well several times
 

I'm not sure if I selected all the right options for your truck, but you might try one of these. I found this at Rock Auto.


Redi-Sleeve; Shaft Size Min=1.934", Shaft Size Max=1.94", Width=0.563", Overall Width=0.688", Flange Outer Diameter=2.219", Installation Depth=1"
National Redi-Sleeves are precision stainless steel wear sleeves designed to produce a superior sealing surface on a worn or damaged shaft. Whether the shaft is marred by tracks or grooves, Redi-Sleeves represent a fast, easy and inexpensive repair.

Redi-Sleeves combine stainless steel construction with a 0.010-inch wall thickness. This thin but durable design allows the original seal size to be used. Redi-Sleeves are pressed onto the shaft using a removable flange. An installation tool is provided with each sleeve.
Click to expand...
 

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Indycars said:

I'm not sure if I selected all the right options for your truck, but you might try one of these. I found this at Rock Auto.


Redi-Sleeve; Shaft Size Min=1.934", Shaft Size Max=1.94", Width=0.563", Overall Width=0.688", Flange Outer Diameter=2.219", Installation Depth=1"
National Redi-Sleeves are precision stainless steel wear sleeves designed to produce a superior sealing surface on a worn or damaged shaft. Whether the shaft is marred by tracks or grooves, Redi-Sleeves represent a fast, easy and inexpensive repair.

Redi-Sleeves combine stainless steel construction with a 0.010-inch wall thickness. This thin but durable design allows the original seal size to be used. Redi-Sleeves are pressed onto the shaft using a removable flange. An installation tool is provided with each sleeve.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

yeah! those seal kits work fairly well also, I know several guys that have used those repair sleeves, also, of course every situation is different, Ive even seen guys weld up and re-cut axles to original diam. but you take a chance of destroying the surface finish and temper on the steel doing that.
 
Ok thanks you very much :).
One last question, on the assembly manual it say to replace/use a new pinion shaft lock bolt. Is there anything wrong with reusing the old one using loctite?
 
mathd said:
Ok thanks you very much :).
One last question, on the assembly manual it say to replace/use a new pinion shaft lock bolt. Is there anything wrong with reusing the old one using loctite?
Click to expand...

I used Loctite on the old bolt when I replaced the axle seals. But that was before I read the thread you posted about the troubles people were having with that bolt breaking. If you got the time replacing would be better, but if not, then I would not be too concerned about using the old bolt. Assuming it looks OK after a visual inspection.

 
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