Walde's -86 L98
- Thread starter Walde
- Start date
mathd
solid fixture here in the forum
Re: Walde's L98
I did not work with differential yoke but from my understanding yes the nut is what set the bearing preload(i know the 10 bolt have a crush sleeve inside)
the way i understand it, if you dont change the bearing you just mark the nut and yoke and threaded shaft then put it back where it was like in the picture in ther link. if you chage the bearing you have to set the preload wich get done like this, tighten the nut, take a measurement in lbs/in of the force it take to rotate the yoke(those very accurate torque wrench are costly 200+$), then tighten the nut some more until you reach the correct torque needed to rotate the yoke. if you go too far you have to dissasemble and change the crushsleeve and start the procedure again(some people replace the crush sleeve for something i forgot the name that make a stronger diff and you dont have to change it in case of axcessive torque/bearing preload)
that is based on my understanding of the 10 bolt diff.
Walde said:Thank you, Sir.gtr1999 said:
Sorry to bother a bit more with my layman's basic questions.
If I look at the link Grumpy posted above:
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=5756&p=17560#p17560
Do I understand correctly: the bearing preload is the torque of the nut on the input yoke? Or something else?
Is there a target value for this preload/torque or should I just try to reach the same position by marking it/measuring the distance instead?
I read elsewhere that this nut should be torqued to 250 lb-ft and this is what puzzles me with bearing preload.
I did not work with differential yoke but from my understanding yes the nut is what set the bearing preload(i know the 10 bolt have a crush sleeve inside)
the way i understand it, if you dont change the bearing you just mark the nut and yoke and threaded shaft then put it back where it was like in the picture in ther link. if you chage the bearing you have to set the preload wich get done like this, tighten the nut, take a measurement in lbs/in of the force it take to rotate the yoke(those very accurate torque wrench are costly 200+$), then tighten the nut some more until you reach the correct torque needed to rotate the yoke. if you go too far you have to dissasemble and change the crushsleeve and start the procedure again(some people replace the crush sleeve for something i forgot the name that make a stronger diff and you dont have to change it in case of axcessive torque/bearing preload)
that is based on my understanding of the 10 bolt diff.
Re: Walde's L98
Hi Just stopped back to check in.
The pinion bearings are tapered roller bearings just like the trailing arms use. They are not the same bearings but the same design. With Trailing arms you setup the bearings for endplay vs preload. Endplay is movement in the bearings in an in/out direction. With preload you go past the endplay until you load the bearings and start to create drag, which is measured in this case in In/lbs.
The is a common believe there is a torque value for the pinion nut when using a stock crush sleeve. This is incorrect. With the stock crush sleeve the bearings are tightened to a value then they will "seat" in use and the value will be lower. So let us take the units I know best, the 63-79 vette diff. When I install new bearings I set the drag to 18-19 in/lbs. When that same diff breaks in the value will be about 5 in.lbs. If the seal starts to leak and it will in time, you only want to replace the seal but not change the bearing set points- UNLESS you are going to rebuild the diff. So the best way is to measure the preload before taking it apart, then replace the seal and tight the yoke nut until the drag is back. As mentioned those dial TW are about $150-$250 so many will just mark the location as I mentioned and leave it like that.
Now when I build a vette diff for use with over 500HP I use a solid sleeve in place of the stock crush sleeve. Those ARE torqued to 125 ft/lbs and machine fit for 18 -20 in/lb or what ever the rating for the particular diff is.
Hi Just stopped back to check in.
The pinion bearings are tapered roller bearings just like the trailing arms use. They are not the same bearings but the same design. With Trailing arms you setup the bearings for endplay vs preload. Endplay is movement in the bearings in an in/out direction. With preload you go past the endplay until you load the bearings and start to create drag, which is measured in this case in In/lbs.
The is a common believe there is a torque value for the pinion nut when using a stock crush sleeve. This is incorrect. With the stock crush sleeve the bearings are tightened to a value then they will "seat" in use and the value will be lower. So let us take the units I know best, the 63-79 vette diff. When I install new bearings I set the drag to 18-19 in/lbs. When that same diff breaks in the value will be about 5 in.lbs. If the seal starts to leak and it will in time, you only want to replace the seal but not change the bearing set points- UNLESS you are going to rebuild the diff. So the best way is to measure the preload before taking it apart, then replace the seal and tight the yoke nut until the drag is back. As mentioned those dial TW are about $150-$250 so many will just mark the location as I mentioned and leave it like that.
Now when I build a vette diff for use with over 500HP I use a solid sleeve in place of the stock crush sleeve. Those ARE torqued to 125 ft/lbs and machine fit for 18 -20 in/lb or what ever the rating for the particular diff is.
Re: Walde's L98
Winter is long and dark so why not dive inside the diff...
I wanted to change the seals just in case so after disassembly we opened the cover - was a bit worried what we might find but everything seemed OK and cleanish so that was positive. It appears that somebody has been inside there for some reason as the right side yoke seal was changed and there were two millimeter sized seals on top of each other. There were no leaks so they seem to have worked.
Teeth etc. were nice so that was a big burden off my shoulders.
Hardest job today was to get the old batwing corner bushings off. They were stuck but with suitable sleeves etc. we got them out. Progressive Suspension poly bushes went in without too much drama. Which is nice.
Winter is long and dark so why not dive inside the diff...
I wanted to change the seals just in case so after disassembly we opened the cover - was a bit worried what we might find but everything seemed OK and cleanish so that was positive. It appears that somebody has been inside there for some reason as the right side yoke seal was changed and there were two millimeter sized seals on top of each other. There were no leaks so they seem to have worked.
Teeth etc. were nice so that was a big burden off my shoulders.
Hardest job today was to get the old batwing corner bushings off. They were stuck but with suitable sleeves etc. we got them out. Progressive Suspension poly bushes went in without too much drama. Which is nice.
Re: Walde's L98
Thanks for posting the nice pictures. Seems you've had the rear end out since last November, you need slow down and take your time!
You don't want to make any mistakes!
Went back and scanned the 15 pages of your thread and found the dyno pull on youtube. That was a pretty funny ending to the pull !!!
Thanks for posting the nice pictures. Seems you've had the rear end out since last November, you need slow down and take your time!
You don't want to make any mistakes! Went back and scanned the 15 pages of your thread and found the dyno pull on youtube. That was a pretty funny ending to the pull !!!
mathd
solid fixture here in the forum
Re: Walde's L98
I did miss that? you still have the link close by?Indycars said:
Thanks for posting the nice pictures. Seems you've had the rear end out since last November, you need slow down and take your time!
Went back and scanned the 15 pages of your thread and found the dyno pull on youtube. That was a pretty funny ending to the pull !!!
Re: Walde's L98
It won't be hard to find, since I was just there! All the info is on page 10.
Here you go.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCDhNMuMD10
It won't be hard to find, since I was just there! All the info is on page 10.
Here you go.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCDhNMuMD10
Walde said:
Re: Walde's L98
I do feel exhausted with all this work. Time to take it easy for a while. :mrgreen:Indycars said:
Thanks for posting the nice pictures. Seems you've had the rear end out since last November, you need slow down and take your time!
Went back and scanned the 15 pages of your thread and found the dyno pull on youtube. That was a pretty funny ending to the pull !!!
Re: Walde's L98
Was a good nap. :mrgreen:
My OD is noisy but I got another 4+3 from a friend who said his OD is good but 2nd gear on the trans is shot so getting ready to swap the ODs this week.
I'm fairly sure that I will need to be looking at a Tremec TKO next winter. Keisler is the only source for a plug and play-kit for a C4 I reckon.
Was a good nap. :mrgreen:
My OD is noisy but I got another 4+3 from a friend who said his OD is good but 2nd gear on the trans is shot so getting ready to swap the ODs this week.
I'm fairly sure that I will need to be looking at a Tremec TKO next winter. Keisler is the only source for a plug and play-kit for a C4 I reckon.
Re: Walde's L98
BY far the most common cause for those rear over drive units failing that Ive seen is owners failing to maintain the fluid level in the transmissions rear unit, Ive seen numerous OD units that were run virtually DRY
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/kb/ ... RK6i2f6k1A
BY far the most common cause for those rear over drive units failing that Ive seen is owners failing to maintain the fluid level in the transmissions rear unit, Ive seen numerous OD units that were run virtually DRY
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/kb/ ... RK6i2f6k1A
Re: Walde's L98
Id bet the vast majority of owners were totally clueless about the maintenance requirements of the transmissions O.D. unit.
Id bet getting guys to sit down and read the owners manual is about as easy as getting guys to read thru all the links and sub links in these threads!
I,m constantly amazed at the number of times I post a link, in answer to a question that's been asked,here on this site, and the question they ask next is discussed IN DEPTH in one of that posted links SUB LINKS
Id bet the vast majority of owners were totally clueless about the maintenance requirements of the transmissions O.D. unit.
Id bet getting guys to sit down and read the owners manual is about as easy as getting guys to read thru all the links and sub links in these threads!
I,m constantly amazed at the number of times I post a link, in answer to a question that's been asked,here on this site, and the question they ask next is discussed IN DEPTH in one of that posted links SUB LINKS
Re: Walde's L98
Well, here is a short update from last spring:
We had the engine hanging from the hoist and were putting it in the engine bay when we noticed that the 7 litre Canton 15-240T oil pan in place the engine will not fit in without dismounting the bellhousing and distributor and perhaps even something else.
This left me gutted and I decided to bury the whole thing a year or two.
Well, here is a short update from last spring:
We had the engine hanging from the hoist and were putting it in the engine bay when we noticed that the 7 litre Canton 15-240T oil pan in place the engine will not fit in without dismounting the bellhousing and distributor and perhaps even something else.
This left me gutted and I decided to bury the whole thing a year or two.