Walde's -86 L98

Re: Walde's L98

the pump is what most guys seem to upgrade the c4 corvettes with, you might want to read thru this
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=33

C469.jpg


http://www.racetronix.biz/customkititem ... A-010H&eq=,
its good for at least 500 hp because I know several corvettes making that power running it currently
 
Re: Walde's L98

Starter motor

I think I will get me a new starter while I'm at it - the existing one may be the original from -86.

I want a starter which can be trusted in all situations and it should be immune for heat soak etc.

The build list is:

Walde said:
Don't have the part numbers stored but mainly following shopping list:
- Summit block 383" SUM-150100
- Eagle H-profile rods
- Eagle forged crank
- Wiseco Pro Tru pistons, appr. 10.5:1
- AFR 180 L98 65 cc heads
- Melling 10554 oil pump
- ATI Super Damper
- Canton 15-240T oil pan
- Crane 109671 cam HR-216/339-25-12.90 IG
- Crane lifters etc.
- Comp Cams 1601-16 rockers 1.52:1

etc.
Click to expand...

I have been looking at Powermaster starters but I'm not familiar with that or any other brand.

If I look at their Starter Application Quick Guide I look most at the #9600

9600.jpg


which is intended for engines with 13:1 compression.

A #9004 Hitachi-style is for 13:1 as well.

9004.jpg


Would you pick either of these over the other? Should I go bigger? Any opinions/suggestions/recommendations/experiences of these?
 
Re: Walde's L98

if your headers come close to the starter its generally a really good idea to use a heat shield over the starter, as heat and electronics don,t generally help durability, a remote solenoid would also increase durability, if you have the option, a larger diameter, 168 tooth flywheel or flex-plate gives the starter a bit more leverage over the common , smaller diameter 153 tooth design., be aware that some starters won,t allow some oil pans and some headers to be used
THESE THREADS MIGHT HELP

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=458&p=1545#p1545

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4846&p=13298&hilit=starters#p13298


http://store.summitracing.com/parts/dei ... dia/images
starterheat1.jpg

starterheat2.jpg
 
Re: Walde's L98

Looking at both pics the 9004 is an easy winner from sheer size aspect. None in country but there's plenty of time to get one.
 
Re: Walde's L98

am using a powermaster(they make good starter) mini starter(from what i hear the mini starter are stronger) with my 383 very similar to the 9600, 163 tooth flywheel, clearance is good with the headers but thats on a camaro and no kick-out oil pan.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Seek and you shall find...I managed to find a dealer http://www.nalleygmc.com/parts/index.htm with washers #14076924 in stock and willing to sell abroad. Which is nice. :)

Right. Next question.

The flywheel has 6 bolts and one hole for a dowel pin, I believe. Is this indeed for a dowel pin? What type and size is it, roll pin perhaps? Should I use one?

flywheelx.jpg
 
Re: Walde's L98

Almost like Christmas again - when you buy stuff for yourself you get exatcly what you want/need instead of clothes or such useless crap. :mrgreen:

p1010166b.jpg
 
Re: Walde's L98

I got a set of seals for input and output shafts of the -86 diffential, Dana 44 I believe as mine is with 4+3?

Is there something special in the procedure of changing these seals?

With special I mean if the whole differential needs to come apart to be able to do this or if input yoke needs to be tightened to some special degree of tension or anything? I've tried to look for an instruction but no luck - if you know such an instruction I'd be grateful of a link or such.
 
Re: Walde's L98


I don't know about everyone else but the beginning of the first few lines are
not visible because your avatar is covers it up. I'm using the latest Firefox browser.

Just thought you might like to know.




 

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Re: Walde's L98

on my computer it show correctly.
probably i am using a hgiher res.. or you can do ctrl+ scroll down to decrease the fonts size.
 
Re: Walde's L98

My specialty is custom building the 63-79 iron diff's for up to 1000hp but the the princicple procedures are the same for your diff. The diff has to come out for best results, yes the pinion seal can be done in the car and I suppose the side yoke seals can as well but you are better served to remove and mount it on a stand.

The side yokes are retained by clips removing them will allow the yokes to be removed, pry out the seals and replace them.

The pinion seal requires measuring the present bearing preload with a 0-30 in/lb dial torque wrench. Lets say it is 5 in/lbs, then remove the yoke and seal. Replace the seal and set the drag back to the recorded reading.

An alterntive method if you don't have a 0-30 dial TW is to mark the position of the pinion yoke,nut, and pinion with small cut off wheel. I like to just touch them so there is a permanent mark, some will paint them but you don't want it to rub off. You can also measure the depth of the nut on the pinion but I like marks better.
 
Re: Walde's L98

mathd said:
on my computer it show correctly.
probably i am using a hgiher res.. or you can do ctrl+ scroll down to decrease the fonts size.
Click to expand...
It's not biggy if everyone else can see it correctly.

I use NoSquint add-on for Firefox, it will zoom in/out and remembers the last zoom setting for all websites I visit and then returns me to that setting when I visit the next time.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Sledge's ego is too big for small avatars. :mrgreen: Should be better now.

Thanks Grumpy for the links and advise.
 
Re: Walde's L98

gtr1999 said:
My specialty is custom building the 63-79 iron diff's for up to 1000hp but the the princicple procedures are the same for your diff. The diff has to come out for best results, yes the pinion seal can be done in the car and I suppose the side yoke seals can as well but you are better served to remove and mount it on a stand.

The side yokes are retained by clips removing them will allow the yokes to be removed, pry out the seals and replace them.

The pinion seal requires measuring the present bearing preload with a 0-30 in/lb dial torque wrench. Lets say it is 5 in/lbs, then remove the yoke and seal. Replace the seal and set the drag back to the recorded reading.

An alterntive method if you don't have a 0-30 dial TW is to mark the position of the pinion yoke,nut, and pinion with small cut off wheel. I like to just touch them so there is a permanent mark, some will paint them but you don't want it to rub off. You can also measure the depth of the nut on the pinion but I like marks better.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Sir.

Sorry to bother a bit more with my layman's basic questions. :oops:

If I look at the link Grumpy posted above:

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=5756&p=17560#p17560

Do I understand correctly: the bearing preload is the torque of the nut on the input yoke? Or something else?

Is there a target value for this preload/torque or should I just try to reach the same position by marking it/measuring the distance instead?

I read elsewhere that this nut should be torqued to 250 lb-ft and this is what puzzles me with bearing preload.
 
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