1971 Pontiac GTO 455 RPO L-75 325HP & 455Ft/lbs Brought Home

  • Thread starter Thread starter 87vette81big
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Eh, I have a question for the audience.
I'm transporting a 455 home later today. I doubt it will be on a cradle, stand or whatever. I suppose I'll just bring along some wood blocking. I don't have a carb plate lifter so using chains, what are the second best lifting spots around this size motor? Normally I would just guess but I want to see if there is better judgement.
Does anybody know what size bolt/thread fits though the engine stand and into the Pontiac block or are they universal for all engines?
 
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HELP, I got the engine code "YH" for 1970 the Internet list says there is just 1 and it's a 360 hp HO
The heads are "18"
I need to know how to find the engine casting code? Begins with a 9799? I think?
 
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That's exactly what I found. Maybe he made a mistake and it's a number 15 not 18. My info says there is only one other for that YH 1970 4 bolt main, 360 Hp - it's either a 15 or a 64. I think the 7 digit code is above the "YH" on the front of the block.
I'm dealing with a savvy older guy that knows his business, just how much is unknown just yet.
I'm hoping the engine code comes back as 9799140.
 
Is it safe to turn the motor by hand using a socket and bar on the crank pulley bolt? Can someone tell me what size socket I need?
 
if your wondering how to turn a crank over to do test and diagnosing and cam installs you will benefit from the proper tools
IF you remove the spark plugs and take the car out of gear its fairly safe to turn the engine over manually,
using a breaker bar on the cranks damper retainer bolt,the problem is 99.9% of us are LAZY,
and just try it as the engine sits and eventually we strip the crank bolt or the crank snout threads
If the damper been removed the crank snout socket thats designed for your crank to turn the crank.
and hold the degree wheel while degreeing in the cam will be the route to take
shop carefully and ask questions the sockets and tools don,t fit universally, you'll need an assortment of several OF EACH TYPE ONCE YOU GET INTO ENGINE BUILDING SERIOUSLY
the crank socket like this that can turn the crank safely and firmly and accuratly mount a degree wheel is prefered
degreewheeladapter.jpg
there are also crank turning nuts that fit individual crank sizes
most of us are too lazy to remove the damper/balancers
SUM-901064_IT_ml.jpg

there are over size extra strength damper bolts for sale that are less likely to strip
POW-POW320000.jpg

they sell an engine damper bolt on tool that fits some dampers that allows you to use a 1/2" braker bar rather easily
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66782?seid=srese1&gclid=CNqD0YXA48gCFUYYHwodBJ4DVA
66782.jpg


IT MAKES LITTLE SENSE TO BUY the sockets that don.t have the provision for mounting the cam degree wheel to save a few dollars in my opinion
sum-g1063_w_ml.jpg

SXT-10000_ml.jpg
 
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This is so dam frustrating! I hate like hell to commit to 3 hrs drive to find Its not good. The guy says it's now a 15 head and surely a YH and a 455 from 1970, but he says the number above the YH is "0251230"
I can't find this number for anything let alone the one above. Did I mention I hate driving?
 
heres a little secret you may forget, tomorrow your going to a day older , never to see today again and never to have that time back nor the opportunity to grab that engine at that price, if you make the trip and its not what your after you wasted your time and fuel and money but the time would have been gone by this time tomorrow in any case , and you just might find a bargain and have an interesting story to tell, and/or and engine.
a month or two from now I doubt youll miss the money you spent on fuel or the time, you may have a good engine, you may not, but the opportunity will have passed./
I regret many passed up opportunity, far more than I cherish the hours I wasted sitting wondering if I should or should not have grabbed a bargain simply because about 90% of the time I regretted not grabbing the chance later.
many of us remember passing on hemi road runners, and 454 chevels and 401 amx's in the late 1970s-early 1980s at bargain basement prices that we still kick our selves over, or $100 muncie transmission deals and $200 dana 60 differentials, I was offered several deals on $350 complete with carbs to air cleaner, tri power pontiac intakes, and corvette intakes,
I was offered a 1958 corvette with a crappy paint job and ripped seats that ran fine for $1200 once and passed on it!
WHY?
because I bought a 1962 vette for $2200 that looked nearly show room new with a blown head gasket days later
 
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251,230 Is the engine unit production number for that year.
Only in Pontiac factory engine production line archives.
Not on the internet anywhere .

You won't strip the Pontiac crankshaft bolt.
Its 4 times the diameter of SBC.
3 times the diameter of BBC.


This is my.last post.

Not my thread .

Done.
 
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