383 information overload

Macke · Apr 21, 2015

Hi guys, I will be posting an introduction shortly, but I've been doing research on 383s for a little over a month now, usually several hours a day. I'm very familiar with the concepts and how they are built and what additional components I have to upgrade to get the most bang for my buck, but as for selecting specific engine components I'm at a loss. I've seen so many different cams and pistons and push rods and heads, I don't know what I should be buying anymore.

I'd love to throw a BBC in it (93 Z28), but clearance issues and emissions changed my mind on that, so I'm back to square one with the stroker.

Car will be a daily driver, so I'm not looking to make a drag car. Something that sees peak hp at 4500-5000 is plenty for me, and I'd love to see peak tq lower at 2500-3000. Also ideally I would like to see HP in the 400-450 range and torque 480-520. I have a set of AFR 195 heads that I picked up for cheap brand new, but other than that I haven't pulled the trigger on anything..

With the background story told, my questions are..

Should I buy an aftermarket block for this or will a modified stock work? Any particular casting number I should be looking for if stock?

5.7" rods or 6"?

I don't even know where to begin on cams, so many options.. Once a cam is selected I know I can contact manufacturer for lifter and pushrod specs, but I'd like to go with a roller build.

I really am overwhelmed with so many options and being new to performance modifications, some guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Indycars · Apr 21, 2015

I certainly understand your overwhelmed feelings, it's very easy to do!!!

I will let Grumpy do the heavy lifting, but some questions that you might answer will help him when he reads your post.

- How are you setup for tools? Do you have a torque wrench, dial indicator, micrometers, ring compressor etc.

- Do you already have a engine to rebuild or will you be buying something to rebuild?

- What's your budget?

- Is your car an automatic or standard? What rear end gear ratio to you have?

grumpyvette · Apr 21, 2015

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-383-build.12786/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-project-dart-shp.3814/page-35#post-23579

RICKS T-bucket engine build thread (linked above) will answer the majority of your engine build questions,
and if your budget allows building a similar 406 SBC with a slightly milder duration cam like the CRANE 119661 hydraulic roller I used in my current 383 SBC, will with those AFR heads you already own,make a combo that produces impressive mid rpm power.(if your starting from scratch a dart 406 SBC is a much stronger structual
what gets lots of guys in trouble is ignoring the the fact that the DRIVE TRAIN (transmission rear differential gearing and tire size, converter stall speed etc. needs to match the application and the engines power curve. theres absolutely no sense in building a 383-406 that makes lets say 520hp at 6400rpm, and does not start to run well until the engine rpms exceed about 3500rpm if you were for example to match it to a stock 700r4 with a 1900rpm stall converter that shifts to the next higher gear ratio at 5100 rpm, but that's an all to frequent occurrence.
head gaskets are rarely completely round, nore are combustion chambers
you,ll want to place a head gasket you,ll use on the heads and mark the area inside the opening as the only areas you can change,
(notice the gasket fire ring is NOT a perfect circle like many people assume)
ideally you'll want to un-shroud the valves while opening up the combustion chamber volume,
but not extend the combustion chamber past the front edge of the gasket fire ring,
as that usually causes gasket failure
DEAL IN PROVEN FACTS NEVER GUESS , NEVER ASSUME
look through these threads
BTW.IF YOUR BUILDING A SBC
http://brodix.com/heads-2/small-block-chevrolet-compatible-heads/ik-series
http://www.jegs.com/i/Brodix/158/1021001/10002/-1
keep in mind there's no real replacement for added displacement
the increase from 350-383 in a sbc generally benefits you in two ways, it obviously adds the 33 extra cubic inches of displacement
and you'll generally find your N/A engine makes about 1-1.3 hp and ft lb of torque per cubic inch, it also tends to effectively increase compression if the similar piston design is used simply because you compressing an increased volume per cylinder into the same size combustion chamber.
one other factor often over looked is the longer stroke of the 383 increase's mid and lower rpm port speeds this generally increases cylinder fill efficiency, in the lower and mid rpm ranges.
obviously if your going to supercharge or use turbos the piston and rods and crank assembly should be made to withstand the stress levels so a 4340 forged steel crank, forged pistons and after market forged connecting rods with the significantly stronger 7/16" ARP rod bolts are strongly suggested as is dropping the static compression to the 8:1 range to increase the potential volume of compressed fuel/air mix to be stuffed into and burnt above the piston.
Id point out that most transmissions are designed to shift at well under 6000 rpm and most hydraulic valve trains won,t retain best stability above about 6300 rpm, so going the 383 or the 406 SBC stroker route tends to maximize the SBC potential on a mild or mid range performance build

brodix ph# 1-479-394-1075 (ALWAYS VERIFY PART NUMBERS SEVERAL,
TIMES FROM AT LEAST TWO SOURCES, BEFORE ORDERING PARTS)
the brodix rock stud girdle is part # BR-6435 and LIST price is about $230 you can get it for less if you shop carefully
BE AWARE that the I.K. 200 heads were shipped with BOTH 3/8" and 7/16" rocker studs ,
and the poly locks for the 7/16" rocker studs ONLY fit that rocker stud girdle
obviously you need to verify what your heads have before you order the matching rocker stud girdle

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/clearance-issues.12072/#post-57822

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

notice how the rod bolts come close to the cam bearings and cam lobes,as the pistons reach top dead canter in the bores, this clearance must be individually checked and should be no less than about .060 (generally you cam use a LARGE plastic tie-wrap
https://www.amazon.com/BuyCableTies...D=41U9CtmwOuL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

placed between the cam lobe and connecting rod bolts or connecting rod shoulder areas to check clearances as the soft tie-wrap will not damage the cam lobe while you verify clearances)you must install the timing set and index the cam correctly to get a valid clearance , as the cam lobes rotate and at some point they can be incorrectly indexed too hit the rods, while they would not if correctly timed.

why you need to verify the cam to rod bolt clearance

rods that use bolts with nuts like pictured below will be weakened if excessively clearance ground

stroker profile rods offer more clearance to cam lobes, and yes the stroker clearanced profile rods are available in both (h) and (I ) beam designs

generally its a minor easily done clearance job

on some stroker applications SOME rods need to have the bolts ground for cam lobe clearance
first step.
before you start panicking and potentially wasting money and time.
would be to assemble a single piston and rod assembly without rings,
but ideally with some old bearings on the crank and connecting rod and install the cam, in the block
( indexed with a simple,dot to dot timing on the timing gear sets should be ok at this point)
move that connecting rod and piston to all 8 locations and very carefully verify clearances (remember the rod clearance bevel faces the crank counter weight and the piston valve clearances face the outer block)through the full 720 degree rotational cycle, remember the cam spins at 1/2 the crank speed so the cam lobe comes close to the rod every other rotation,
and actually verify you DO, have or DON,T have a potential clearance problem
there's zero sense in running around pulling your hair out and screaming until,
there's actually a PROVEN ISSUE to SOLVE (THERE MAY NOT BE!)
now if you find there's an issue to be solved you proceed using facts
and while your checking the cam lobe to connecting rod clearance check the connecting rod to block clearance ....yes the same minimum .060-.080 clearance is suggested

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...earances-and-journal-surface.9955/#post-38385

generally its a minor easily done clearance job

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.htm
don,t forget to verify the cam to connecting rod clearances
a cams VALVE LIFT is determined by the DISTANCE the lifter moves as the cam rotates under the lifter base as it moves from the cam lobe base circle
(the closest the lifter comes to the cams center line)
up to the cam lobes ramp to the lobes peak,
(the furthest the lifter up off or from the cams center line)
don,t forget to carefully check the piston skirt to crank counter weight clearance, it should be a MINIMUM of .080 thousands
heres some pictures taken of an engine assembly that use a crank designed for a MINIMUM of a 6.25" connecting rod that was used with a 6.135" connecting rod

you can clearly see where the piston pin boss was being hit bye the counter weights, even though the builder checked one piston and found it had .025 clearance during assembly

the result was a trashed engine with lots of damage

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-vs-aluminum-heads.389/#post-31684

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/#post-60554

laying a head gasket on the head and use machinist blue dye to show the areas inside the gasket fire-ring

http://www.skygeek.com/dymon-8000-s...MI8vPS24jm1gIVBolpCh2pnAoWEAQYAiABEgL2ZPD_BwE

thus the first logical step would be to carefully place a identical head gasket to what you'll use on the engine , properly lined up on the cylinder head and accurately scribe its inside dimensional limits on the cylinder head, a metal scribe , a dremel tool and machinist blue would be helpful here
keep in mind its one of several factors working together, things like getting the quench correct, polishing and un-shrouding the combustion chamber, getting the ignition advance curve and fuel/air ratio correctly matched and taking the time to polish the piston, dome, removing sharp edges from valve clearance notches , and polishing and very slightly rounding sharp edges on the valves, use of the correct spark plug heat range, removing exposed threads in the combustion chamber after you test by inserting a correct spark plug, certainly helps reduce any potential hot spots.

you might be amazed at how much material can be removed ,
too noticeably increase air-flow and un-shroud the valves,
and how little it might effectively change,
the combustion chamber volume and compression.

the rotating assembly bearings ,wrist pins and complete valve train,valve springs, lifters, valves and valve guides and the pistons and rings are where a great deal of the engine heat is generated, and those components are initially cooled with oil flow that absorbs and transfers the heat collected , and transported from those components to the block and coolant, so having a constant flow of pressurized oil flow over those parts are mandatory for maximum durability.thus adding a larger capacity baffled oil pan and an oil cooler will generally enhance and extend an engines life span.

When your planning to build a performance car, I've found it helps,
you see progress being made and prevents you from getting discouraged as easily,
if you work on accumulating components for each of the 8 basic sub assemblies,
and checking off your list those components and grouping those on a separate shelf,
as doing so tends to allow you to see more consistent progress,
being made, and you get a feeling your getting someplace.

(1) BLOCK (bearings, freeze plugs main caps and machine work)

(2) ROTATING ASSEMBLY (crank, rods pistons, rings, flywheel,damper etc.)

(3) CYLINDER HEADS and VALVE TRAIN ( valves, valve springs, cam, timing gears, rockers, valve guides, push-rods lifters . etc.)

(4)INDUCTION(manifold, throttle body, sensors, carbs, supercharger, injection , fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator injectors etc.)

(5) DRIVE TRAIN ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS(clutch, stall converter, transmission ETC.)

(6) ignition system (distributor,coils, ignition wires, magneto etc.)

(7) LUBE SYSTEM (oil pan, oil pump, windage tray,oil cooler, ETC.)
these threads and links and sub-links might help

(8) EXHAUST (headers and exhaust system, mufflers ETC.)

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
RELATED LINKS

yes you'll ALWAYS NEED to verify clearances carefully when assembling any engine and no, you can,t assume everything will fit just because its part of a component list thats suppose to fit correctly, simply because manufacturing is an imprecise process and mistake do get made occasionally!

RELATED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/stroker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-con-rods-would-you-buy.942/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/350-sbc-383-sbc-1980-malibu.14493/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68205

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-55314

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=428&sid=51f4ab8721f2eef9fbbe21c5d23203cf

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/analyzing-piston-damage.16432/

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-0808-383-stroker-small-block-chevy/

87vette81big · Apr 21, 2015

All the Info you need for your 383 sbc is here on Grumpys site.

Macke · Apr 21, 2015

I've done so much reading, I spent an entire weekend reading one of grumpy's posts that had probably 20 links (which were all read lol). Tools should not be an issue, I have access to a large shop, but the owner does not have knowledge of performance engines. I currently am driving with an lt1 that I was going to build into the 383, but am heavily considering starting from scratch. I'd like to see no more than $10,000 into it, but you know how that goes.. I have lots of overtime I can work, so it's not as big of a concern, but I still don't want to slave away for years to pay off an engine. It is a manual transmission, 3.23 diff on I believe the 10 bolt. Never looked as I know it's going to be replaced.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but 406 = 4.125 bore and 3.75 stroke? Wouldn't that make for a thin wall between cylinders? I trust your knowledge that it's stronger, but am trying to understand.

Running 275/35 r18 Michelin super sports rear 245/35 fronts.

At this point I feel I can build some monster, but it wouldn't really fit into the driving style I want.

Would a mild cam be the best suited for this application? 4340 crank with 6" rods? I'm sure I'll have more questions yet, I gotta sort stuff out..

grumpyvette · Apr 21, 2015

maybe RICK can post about the basic driveable characteristics of the 406 SBC he built with that DART BLOCK.
KEEP IN MIND A SLIGHTLY MILDER CAM LIKE THE CRANE 119661 will further add to the lower rpm torque with a slight loss of peak power which is NOT always a bad trade
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=3814
each area has machine shops with different tools, experience and unfortunately some machinists have attitude issues
and don,t seem to think delivering top quality work at reasonable prices and on promised delivery dates are a reasonable expectation.

On oil pans I prefer studs, and an oil pan back plate

you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer
Id say its a VERY bad idea personally , if you shop carefully you can find a reasonably priced 6- 7 quart oil pan that should help engine durability.
SHOP CAREFULLY ,
WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN for your engine or transmission,
<AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY,
AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT
many guys ignore proven combos, because it may cost more than they want to spend, and either insist on using components they own currently or think they can buy far less expensively than the components, I know from experience will actually work.

MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/

CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/

CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html

MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/
http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Moroso Performance Products/1100001::Oil Pans/11005::Chevy Big Block, Gen VGen VI?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.1110000111005&expand=true&menuId=main.menu

AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html

STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm

HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/

IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up

obviously you,ll want to ask specific questions as to the ,
ground clearance, starters that can be used,
oil filters, oil dip stick, location,
oil pan gasket matching both pan and lock used.
rear oil seal type,and frame and suspension clearance issues,
related to your car, before you purchase any oil pan

I think the hamburger oil pan is a better value At $242
notice the better oil control features
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1088/overview/

I buy most of my replacement valve springs from these guys
http://www.racingsprings.com/
(866) 799-9417
http://www.racingsprings.com/Staff
heres their ph#
Toll Free (866) 799-9417
I always just order the springs retainers valve locks and spring seats as a package deal (NOT CHEAP BUT EVERYTHING WORKS AND FITS) then you just need shims under the valve spring seats occasionally to get the correct installed height

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900013/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900012/overview/

http://www.buxtonengineering.com/on_head_valve_spring_tester.php

http://www.racingsprings.com/1300-Series-/1300-Series-/sku/33

http://www.racingsprings.com/1500-series/sku/34

good quality valve springs are fairly expensive, youll generally pay $250-$450 for decent valve springs and many guys start looking for far cheaper imported sets, that are of lower quality, at bargain prices, the problem is that you generally find a set, and comparing the price it makes it hard for some guys to remember YOU GENERALLY GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR AND THERE'S A DARN GOOD REASON THE IMPORTED PARTS ARE CHEAPER

check all valve train geometry and clearance on any engine you assemble or modify the valve train on.

related threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-55314

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-started-in-the-car-hobby.339/#post-60187

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...y-in-building-a-good-engine.11682/#post-54682

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-51823

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-clearances-and-problems.528/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-51341

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-51146

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...embling-an-engine-correctly.10363/#post-43802

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/machine-shop-sequencing.4460/#post-11720

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-splayed-caps.7267/#post-24528

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-22976

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/#post-10122

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...cking-blocks-heads-for-cracks.3363/#post-8862
you might want to read thru these links
these links may help
Verifying your engines clearances, and rocker geometry, and use of A rocker stud girdle and high quality roller rockers go a long way towards maintaining valve train durability

if youve ever wondered why the press in rock studs work loose and pull out of heads,
or why some less expensive rocker studs break, keep in mind the rocker and push rods,
are under hundreds of ft lbs of valve spring pressure and the rocker studs deflect significantly under load,
as the lifter rides up on the cam lobe and the valve spring deflects under load,
its really a miracle more rockers and rocker studs don,t snap off.
and the video, shows clearly why rocker stud girdles add considerable valve train stability

first CHEVK CLEARANCES AND GEOMETRY

the higher rocker ratio increases the effective acceleration rate of the cams lobe ramp, being transmitted to the valve so the higher ratio tends to cause valve control issues at a lower rpm level UNLESS the valve spring load rates increased to compensate. this allows a greater area of lift or open port area so the engine will tend to run better in the mid rpm range, generally making it well worth while as the mile duration cam can use the extra lift and duration at the valve.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-plan-for-quench.11298/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/quench-or.10951/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/#post-44568

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...needs-clean-up-equalization.12474/#post-62647

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-2#post-55199

shop carefully the exact same set of mics from the same company can cost $270-$900 depending on where you buy the set
https://www.greatgages.com/products...MIyYigxdnA1QIVU2p-Ch1Z7wX8EAQYASABEgLrvvD_BwE

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rods/chevy-rods/

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/about-crankshafts/chevy-crankshafts/

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rotating-assembies/chevy-rotating-assemblies/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68205

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html

http://www.brodix.com/uncategorized/ik-dyno

ID strongly suggest you keep firmly in mind that doing your math home work and selecting and correctly installing a few high quality well matched components , goes a long way towards building a durable high performance engine and its best to concentrate on maximizing the engines torque curve in the mid rpm range, up to the engines useful rpm red-line, and gearing the drive train to match that intended power band!
If your building a high performance street driven cars engine, ID try hard to build a combo that allows you to stay under about 4200 feet per minute in piston speed, maximizing the engines displacement, getting the dynamic compression close to 8:1 and carefully checking valve train clearances, and geometry.
building an engine with a Quench distance that falls in the .038-.044" range, and matching the cam duration, lift and LSA to the intended power band, and having headers that are designed to amplify cylinder scavenging in that power band, and carefully thinking through and installing a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and windage screen along with use of high quality bearings, and valve train components, with carefully verified clearances ,goes a long way towards maintaining better long term durability!
YOU'LL tend to get what you pay for! in both parts quality and machine work precision, You'll almost never regret buying and carefully installing a few better quality forged rotating assembly parts or double or triple checking clearances, but you'll frequently wonder "W.T.F. WAS I THINKING"
if you buy cheap components or fail to verify clearances , if your bargain priced parts fail under stress!
do your reading and research home work before you buy parts!
if your not 110% sure of what you need stop and ask questions and get answers from several sources before proceeding on!

READ THROUGH THIS LINK

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/

first ID point out that a DART BLOCK is cast considerably thicker and with a stronger alloy THUS the BLOCK STRENGTH is significantly better than the stock production blocks and the bore walls thicker and stiffer.
GOOD QUALITY PARTS LIKE A DART BLOCK,
CRANE OR CROWER ROLLER CAM
SCAT FORGED ROTATING ASSEMBLY
A GOOD SET OF ROLLER ROCKERS
and THOSE AFR HEADS GO A LONG WAY TO BUILDING A QUALITY COMBO

READ THESE
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=3219

viewtopic.php?f=51&t=976

THEN READ THRU THIS... and remember if the engines built as a 406 it will be a bit more torque at a bit lower average rpm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... /A-P1.html

POWER TO WEIGHT CALCULATIONS
http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/1-4-mile-ET-HP-MPH-calculator

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

https://robrobinette.com/et.htm

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/

http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_horsepower_elapsed_time/horsepower_elapsed_time.php

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/03/power-to-weight-ratio/

if your assembling any engine,
ideally you and your friends should have and hopefully read and did read carefully the linked info.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...piston-to-bore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-and-get-it-to-last-cam-install-info.90/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-clearances-and-problems.528/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correctly-adjusting-valves.196/

Indycars · Apr 22, 2015

grumpyvette said:
maybe RICK can post about the basic driveable characteristics of the 406 SBC he built with that DART BLOCK.

I never feel like I'm waiting for the engine to get into it's torque band. The car
jumps and immediately is at 3000 rpm and climbing. The 14 inch wide MT tires
are squealing all the way thru first gear. One thing to keep in mind is my car
only weighs 1800 lbs.

The larger 401 cuin will also give you even more low end torque. With your
budget you might want to think about a 427 SBC with the Dart SHP block. I
built my 401 for about $7000. That would give you an additional 40 cuin, more
than enough to make up for a larger camshaft like the Crower 00471. The
same camshaft in a larger engine is essentially a smaller and tamer camshaft,
than in a smaller engine like a 383.

3.7:1 Positrac Rear Gear
200-4r Automatic Transmission
2800 RPM Stall Converter
Crower 00471 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Brodix IK 200 Heads

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=F4w8YlTA4MI

grumpyvette · May 25, 2015

heres an engine build I found that is obviously going to be a rather impressive street/strip engine,
looking over the components use Id have made a few minor changes like a bit longer duration on the cam,
like the CROWER 00471 or CRANE 119651, ,
the reason would be to allow those heads to breath more effectively which I have little doubt would result in a small loss of low rpm torque but a noticeable gain in peak power.
they obviously designed the combo to maximize low and mid rpm torque and were willing to sacrifice some peak power to do that, but I'd point out that once your over about 450 ft lbs of torque at 3500rpm-4000rpm, adding additional torque is rather counter productive on street tires
look carefully at the listed valve lift
Intake Valve lift: 0.502
Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.51
vs
the port flow listed valve lift figures,
200cc Intake runners
Flow @ .700 Int: 270/ Exh: 195 cfm
Flow @ .600 Int: 263/ Exh: 190 cfm

it should be obvious that the cam they selected never gets close to maxing out the port flow due to limited valve lift even.
the duration selected is a little bit restrictive for the application,
Intake Duration @ .050: 224
Exhaust Duration @ .050: 230
yes I have to admit that when I personally swapped from a stock stall speed converter
,in my 383 sbc corvette and a 3200 rpm stall speed converter the difference in performance was amazingly better.
swap too a 3.73:1 rear gear and you've noticeably further enhanced that seat of the pants and slam in the back acceleration.
people tend to not fully appreciate the fact that the performance cars drive train gearing, power to weight ratio and the converter stall
(in the case of automatic transmission) must match the engine torque curve if the car is to perform to anything close to its best potential
theres two, sizes ON the SBC O.E.M. REAR CAM PLUG
1.23/32-inch expansion plug or the 1.47/64ths (cam plug)
or

the dorman catalog showed both plugs for 62-68 327 & 67 up 350's also.

This looks like a darn bargain
the double roller cloyes timing chains tend to last longer before they wear and have excess slack
and they can be used with the stock O.E.M timing chain cover

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/timing-tabs-and-indicators.1015/#post-49812

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/SB-Chevy-Ch...265086?hash=item2a6c66393e:g:jPgAAOSwRgJXiXxM

plugs are roughly 1 5/8" on a O.E.M block sbc
the small one is dorman # 555-049.
1.and 23/32 o.d.,
the large one is 555-080.
1. and 47/64 o.d.
just be sure an measure the one you knock out or the hole it fits and use an accurate caliper

yet with decent heads the results are still reasonably good, which again shows the importance of selected good cylinder heads

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=24187
IF YOUR SIMPLY TRYING TO GET A STOCK TPI CORVETTE ENGINE BACK IN SERVICE AS CHEAPLY AS YOU CAN?
the heads and block surfaces must be very carefully examined for damage or warping issues and if found those issues must be corrected, before any new head gaskets installed, over time steam can and will cut grooves in even cast iron blocks and rather easily in softer aluminum. no head gasket will seal a badly machined or warped head or block
btw if youve managed to blow a head gasket on a 1986-91 TPI corvette with aluminum heads
the heads and block surfaces must be very carefully examined for damage or warping issues and if found those issues must be corrected, before any new head gaskets installed, over time steam can and will cut grooves in even cast iron blocks and rather easily in softer aluminum.
keep in mind coolant must have the anti-freeze ratio set at 50%water 50% antifreeze and be replaced at least every 4 years MAX to retain its anti corrosive additives

the stock 1986-91 tpi head gasket FELPRO HS7733pt9

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43962

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-sealant-goes-where.700/#post-43768

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-49297
Here are some actual results from a back to back dyno run. 1 5/8" Hookers vs. 1 7/8" XS-Power

2.9 TQ and 12.9 HP yea for the 1 7/8"!!

Engine Specs

Chevy small block
4.030” bore x 3.750” stroke
382.8 Cubic Inch Displacement
10.3:1 Compression Ratio

Block: GM 350 4-bolt .030” overbore
Engine Block Style: Stock
Engine Block Material: Cast iron
Main Bolt Style: 4-bolt ARP bolts
Main Caps: Stock

Main Cap Material: Ductile iron
Align honed Yes

Crankshaft: Eagle 383 Cast Crank - p/n 103503750

Polished by Mile High Cranks
Rear Main Seal Style: 2-piece
Stroke (in): 3.75 in.
Engine Balance: External
Balanced Yes
Rated 500 hp
Main Bearings Clevite MS909HG

Rods: Eagle 6000BST2000
Length Center to Center: 6.000 in.
Rod Beam Style: H-beam
Rod Material: Forged 4340 steel
Rod Finish: Shot-peened
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Cap Retention Style: Cap screw
Rod Bolt Brand: ARP
Rod Bolt Diameter: 7/16 in.
Rod Bolt Material: ARP
Fastener Yield Strength (psi): 200,000 psi
Rod Bolt Head Style: 12-point
Connecting Rod Weight (g): 645
Big End Bore Diameter (in): 2.100 in.
Pin End Bore Diameter (in): 0.927 in.
Horsepower Rating (hp): 1,200 hp
RPM Rating: 9,500 rpm
Rod Bearing Clevite CB663HN

Pistons: JE Racing 138093
Bore (in): 4.030 in.
Piston Style: Flat top, with two valve reliefs
Piston Material: Forged aluminum
Compression Distance (in): 1.125 in.
Piston Head Volume (cc): +5.00cc
Wrist Pin Style: Floating
Pin Diameter (in): 0.927 in.
Piston Ring Thickness: 1/16 in. x 1/16 in. x 3/16 in.
Weight: 416 grams
Rings: JE Pistons J100014155-5 File Fit

.018” top, .020

2nd
Ring Set: J10008-41555
Spiral Locks: JE Pistons 927042CS

Camshaft: CompCams 12-423-8 [10,46]
Grind: XR276HR
XTREME Energy™ Retro-Fit Hydraulic Roller

Camshafts, RPM Range 1,900 – 5,600

513 HP / 496 ft/lb Torque

Intake Valve lift: 0.502
Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.51
Intake Duration @ .050: 224
Exhaust Duration @ .050: 230
Adv. Intake duration 276
Adv. Exhaust duration 282
Lobe separation: 110
Intake centerline 106
Lash Hyd

Cam Bolt Kit: ARP-234-1001

Timing Chain Cover: Milton 65555

Timing Chain: Comp Cams CS Magnum

Roller Set 2100, Heavy-duty, heat-treated true double roller timing chain

Cam Thrust Button CompCams

Heads: Top ProLine - Cast Iron

Iron, 23 degree, 64cc chamber, angle plug head

200cc Intake runners
Flow @ .700 Int: 270/ Exh: 195 cfm
Flow @ .600 Int: 263/ Exh: 190 cfm

Springs: CompCams 986-16 Dual Valve

Springs: 1.430" O.D. Outer, .697" I.D. Inner
Seat Load: 132 @ 1,750
Open Load: 293 @ 1,250
Coil Bind: 1.150
Rate (Lbs/in.) 322
Valves Precision Engine Parts

Stainless Steel 21-4N

Intake Valves: P2470P 2.020

Exhaust Valves P2469P 1.600

Valve Seals Comp Cams

Retainers Comp Cams

Locks:
Spring Locators
Guideplates Comp Cams

Pushrod Comp Cams 7809-16, High Energy Pushrods™: 5/16" Diameter, 7.266" Length
Hydraulic Roller Lifters:

Rocker Arms: Hi-Tech™ Stainless Steel Rocker Arms:

Chevy; 7/16" Stud, 1.6 Ratio
Rocker Studs: 7/16”
Spark Plugs: AutoLite 23’s

Cylinder Head Bolts ARP 134-3701

Head Gaskets: Felpro Z1144061.061 thick version of Z1144
ear.

12/13
All ’87-and-later Chevy blocks come with a one-piece rear-main seal. This requires the use of a late-model one-piece rear-main seal crank. Starting with the ’88s, most passenger-car engines converted to hydraulic roller cams that required a spider. This is a truck block where the spider mounting bosses are not drilled and tapped, because the truck engine used a flat-tappet cam. These can be easily drilled and tapped to mount the spider for a hydraulic roller cam.

I am building an off idle 383. It will go into a street car. It will never be raced. It should never be necessary for it to exceed 5,500 RPM.
Now for the questions. I am considering using an Eagle, street performance rotator assembly kit. It is advertised as being balanced. The machine shop is telling me that I should pay them $240.00 to balance it because Eagle's balance will be off by as much as 2 grams.
I would like to know if anyone has had problems with the balance on Eagle assemblies and if 2 grams is going to cause an issue with a low RPM engine. Thank you, Tim

Click to expand...

from what I've seen in the past EAGLES balanced assembly's are not as well balanced as they could be and yes, your machine shop is probably correct.
personally I've found the SCAT rotating assemblies to be a better value with closer tolerances
that being stated I don,t think you would have major issues if you carefully verify clearances , and installed it without additional,balance work.
(personally Id cough up the extra $240 as insurance the jobs done correctly, it beats pulling it down later

IF your machine shop is pushing Eagle vs SCAT,they probably don,t have nearly the same % mark up, thats most likely WHY
I've used over a dozen SCAT forged rotating assemblies with complete satisfaction.
both SBC and BBC

http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/rotating-assembies/rotating-assembly-product-search/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...a-scat-rotating-assembly-be.11495/#post-52962

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-displacement-street-engine.10961/#post-48185

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...re-you-getting-for-your-cash.9986/#post-46530

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/scat-vs-eagle.5877/#post-17912

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...pes-of-crankshaft-steel.204/page-2#post-46231

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/#post-11766

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...troker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/#post-2674

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-rod-strength-h-vs-i-beam.1168/#post-41255

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/#post-26199

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-choice.10472/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-dart-shp-4-0-or-4-125.3219/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/blocks-from-summitt-or-comp-products.10174/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-cylinder-wall-thickness.7646/

Chevy V8 bore & stroke chart
I saw this online and figured I would post it..I am going to add the popular lsx strokers soon
CID BORE STROKE
262 = 3.671" x 3.10" (Gen. I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('55-'57 Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
265 = 3.750" x 3.00" ('94-'96 Gen.II, 4.3 liter V-8 "L99", 5.94" rod)
267 = 3.500" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
283 = 3.875" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
293 = 3.779" x 3.27" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LR4" 4.8 Liter Vortec, 6.278" rod)
302 = 4.000" x 3.00" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
305 = 3.736" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
307 = 3.875" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
325 = 3.779" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LM7", "LS4 front wheel drive V-8" 5.3 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
327 = 4.000" x 3.25" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
345 = 3.893" x 3.622" ('97-later, Gen.III, "LS1", 6.098" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" (Gen.I, 5.7" rod)
350 = 4.000" x 3.48" ('96-'01, Gen. I, Vortec, 5.7" rod)
350 = 3.900" x 3.66" ('89-'95, "LT5", in "ZR1" Corvette 32-valve DOHC, 5.74" rod)
364 = 4.000" x 3.622" ('99-later, Gen.III, "LS2", "LQ4" 6.0 Liter Vortec, 6.098" rod)
376 = 4.065" x 3.622" (2007-later, Gen. IV, "L92", Cadillac Escalade, GMC Yukon)
383 = 4.000" x 3.80" ('00, "HT 383", Gen.I truck crate motor, 5.7" rod)
400 = 4.125" x 3.75" (Gen.I, 5.565" rod)
427 = 4.125" x 4.00" (2006 Gen.IV, LS7 SBC, titanium rods)

Two common, non-factory smallblock combinations:

377 = 4.155" x 3.48" (5.7" or 6.00" rod)
400 block and a 350 crank with "spacer" main bearings
383 = 4.030" x 3.75" (5.565" or 5.7" or 6.0" rod)
350 block and a 400 crank, main bearing crank journals
cut to 350 size

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CHEVY BIG BLOCK V-8 BORE AND STROKE

366T = 3.935" x 3.76"
396 = 4.096" x 3.76"
402 = 4.125" x 3.76"
427 = 4.250" x 3.76"
427T = 4.250" x 3.76"
454 = 4.250" x 4.00"
496 = 4.250" x 4.37" (2001 Vortec 8100, 8.1 liter)
502 = 4.466" x 4.00"
572T = 4.560" x 4.375" (2003 "ZZ572" crate motors)

T = Tall Deck

ALL production big blocks used a 6.135" length rod.

READ THESE THREAD's
and don,t skip the sub linked info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/#post-57940
the longer exhaust duration and wide LSA is an advantage if the exhaust is restrictive.it provides more time for the mass of exhaust gases to exit the cylinders,keep in mind its that properly timed exhaust that drags in the following intake charge.
if your using open long tube headers with the proper length primary and collector design,to match your displacement ,compression ratio, and cam timing, longer exhaust duration rarely provides a useful advantage.

in the ideal exhaust system youll want to have less than .5
(thats 1/2 a PSI of back pressure) at the engines peak rpm

http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/

http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

3" o.d = 2.87" diam. inside--approximately 6.5 sq inches of area
2.75 o.d = 2.62"diam. inside--approximately 5.4 sq inches of area
2.5 o.d = 2.37" diam. inside--approximately 4.4 sq inches of area
2.25 o.d = 2.12" diam. inside--approximately 3.5 sq inches of area

well worth reading

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/engine ... ndex1.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/exhaust-components.361/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-required-exhaust-pipe-size.11552/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-exhaust-pipe-diam-for-your-application.1730/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-backpressure-hurting-your-combo.495/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-an-exhaust-system-for-your-car.1166/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-72061

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
read through these links, and sub links,
yes it may take a couple days,
but after understanding how and why things work,
the info is sure to save you a great deal of wasted time,
and a bunch of wasted money.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-backpressure-hurting-your-combo.495/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/exhaust-thinking-of-your-options.13115/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...a-cam-lobe-exhaust-duration.11080/#post-49325

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-ideal-port-size.624/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-required-exhaust-pipe-size.11552/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ful-exhaust-valve-size-and-header-info.11265/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/semi-fool-proof-cam-sellection.82/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/interesting-muffler-test-results.2916/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lsa-effects-your-compression-torque-dcr.1070/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rcise-in-camshaft-selection.12409/#post-61959

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-55651

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/semi-fool-proof-cam-sellection.82/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gine-to-match-the-cam-specs.11764/#post-55651

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-50173

there's a bit of discussion on cam selection in the thread links posted above and in this thread, notice the cam selected is far from the most radical that might fit the application,and there's discussion on the differential gearing intake selection and trans gearing and converter stall speed, and while the cam and heads selected were not (BY DESIGN) the components that would cost the least or produce the best peak power numbers they ARE well matched and can quite easily do two things, provide dependable and instantly available and impressive torque, and allow the car to drive without problems on the street, something, in the cars drive-able characteristics, that a much more aggressive cam, that makes a bit more peak power would most likely not provide.
this is a factor that a great many people don,t grasp or understand, and thats correctly matching the combos characteristics to the true intended application, it makes no sense to build a 600 hp sbc that produces peak power at 6700 rpm if your car has a transmission and gearing that restrict its operation to the 1500 rpm-6300 rpm range, yet I constantly see guys read the magazine articles in places like stock car magazine and decide to try and duplicate some 600 hp plus combo they read about on a street car engine build, then they proceed to really screw it up further because they decide that the expensive cylinder heads and block machine work can be ignored to save money, so they substitute much less expensive components and don,t match the drive train and gearing and act stunned and amazed when the combo of mis-matched components runs like crap, gets into detonation issues and surges and bucks at anything under 4500 rpm.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/

busterrm · Sep 29, 2015

If you're going to buy a Dart block, why not go with a 400 like Indycars and myself did. It would cost about the same as a 383, the Dart SHP is a great foundation for good combo. Rick's(Indycars) turned out great and mine will be done in the near future. More cubic inches will give more torq/hp at lower rpm. What set are the AFR 195 heads? Street or Compitetion? Oh yeah, the Dart SHP is already clearanced for a 3.75 stroke, just have to check them with your rods and cam to be safe. Oops, I just saw Rick's post about his 400(401), it has plenty of power, he can't wait till mine is on the road.

busterrm · Sep 29, 2015

For the larger cubic inches I am hoping your heads are the Comp version, they flow great and have the larger 2.08 intakes.

busterrm · Sep 30, 2015

Indycars said:
I never feel like I'm waiting for the engine to get into it's torque band. The car
jumps and immediately is at 3000 rpm and climbing. The 14 inch wide MT tires
are squealing all the way thru first gear. One thing to keep in mind is my car
only weighs 1800 lbs.

The larger 401 cuin will also give you even more low end torque. With your
budget you might want to think about a 427 SBC with the Dart SHP block. I
built my 401 for about $7000. That would give you an additional 40 cuin, more
than enough to make up for a larger camshaft like the Crower 00471. The
same camshaft in a larger engine is essentially a smaller and tamer camshaft,
than in a smaller engine like a 383.

3.7:1 Positrac Rear Gear
200-4r Automatic Transmission
2800 RPM Stall Converter
Crower 00471 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
Brodix IK 200 Heads

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=F4w8YlTA4MI

View attachment 5664

I agree with Rick, on your budget you could build a good 427, leave the Dart block at the 4.125 bore and stroke it to 4 inches. Depending on where you buy the block, I bought mine already CNC cleared for a 4 inch stroke, you might be able to get it done by the provider, or at good machine shop. I did a lot of research on it and it is suggested that a 5.85 rod length is good. I did a mock parts list and it was more than my budget would allow. With all top quality parts(including AFR 195 heads) my amount as about 8k.

busterrm · Sep 30, 2015

I did choose the AFR 195 competition heads in that mock list.

383 information overload

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