Another 383 build...

DorianL · Sep 19, 2016

Hi All,

I am starting a new engine rebuild thread here.

I am anticipating acquiring a C3 vette and would eventually like to drop in a 383 of my own build. I suspect that after the TT, less than 300 ponies just won't do it for me.

I want to build something, with the forum's support, that has a very smooth OEM-like idle with a TBI and produce as much North of 400 ponies as possible without compromising the smooth idle. The reason being: my wife will be a frequent driver. We all know what that means.

This will be a step-by-step, long-term build from cleaning up the block, to machining and finally dropping in the project car and dyno testing. (I have no idea how to tune those self learning TBIs). It will be very meticulous and detailed and will include thing like beburring the block and opening up the oil passages...

It will also be done over many month as $$$ comes available. I expect it may take up to 2.5 years; building an engine with quality parts isn't cheap. There will be no skimping on heads or roller cam... but if a cast steel crank works, why not? My point is... I don't mind taking the time to save my nickels and dimes for the next step... but only if the expense is worth it.

Below is the block - I picked it up in 2001. It is a 4-bolt that I have held on to for no particular reason other than thinking that one day I might rebuild it

The day has come... if it checks out! I do remember when I pulled it apart that the piston skirts had little wear and that it was very even. On the other hand, I did find nylon cam sprocket teeth in the oil pan.

So, before I do anything, I presume I'll bring it to the machine shop to have it cleaned up and checked, yes?

I suspect many of the tests that are common in the USA are available here.

Anything I can do now to the block before I bring it in?

Loves302Chevy · Sep 19, 2016

DorianL said:
Anything I can do now to the block before I bring it in?

Yes. Disassemble it as much as possible. Measure the cylinder bores to see if it has been previously bored.
All plugs out and make sure the freeze plugs are not on the inside of the block. Take the cam bearings out if you have the tool.
You are not reusing that crank so remove it. The block will be lighter and easier for you to move around.
Take the block to the car wash (or use a pressure washer if you have access to one) and blast it as clean as you can get it.
Then you do your own careful inspection. You might find something bad and not have to spend any money on a junk block.
Get busy with your grinders and remove casting flash, sharp areas, open oil returns, etc.
You can even grind the oil pan rails for connecting rod clearance. Mark those areas before you remove the 350 crank.
Is your rear main bearing cap missing? If not, blend the oil pump inlet. Check all the MB caps for cracks. Also number stamp them before removal.
Chase all the threads in the block.

See, there is plenty to be done. The machine shop does not have to be Step 1.

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

Drill/Tap oil galley plugs for 1/4 npt pipe(flat face)plugs. If it is a 1980 block, look at lifter valley and front cam tunnel for castings that may allow to drill/tap for OEM stepnose roller cam. Oh yeah, under rear main cap on filter side, a galley from filter to rr main there is a soft plug that drives in from rr main register, tap it for 1/4 npt plug also. It is also leads up top of the block for oil pressure sensor/gauge hookup, when putting in the plug be sure not to block that galley leading to the rr main, also top center plug over cam tunnel, only go in 1/2 inch. That galley can be blocked if plug is to deep.

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

Just FYI, external balance rot assemblies have less block clearance work, internal balance more.....
External has weighted balancer and flexplate/flywheel. Unless you have a very radical cam, 6 in rods are not really needed, 5.7 or 5.85 rods will work fine. Comp ht of pistons : 5.7 = 1.425, 5.85 = 1.275, both keep the wrist pin out of the oil ring. JMHO

chromebumpers · Sep 20, 2016

Busterrm, I didn't know you really know your stuff!

DorianL · Sep 20, 2016

Awesomeness - thanks gents!!! Lots of great info and insight there

Loves302Chevy said:
You are not reusing that crank so remove it. The block will be lighter and easier for you to move around.

LOLOL - I learned that one PDQ!

Loves302Chevy said:
Is your rear main bearing cap missing?

Good eye!!!!! @#$%@#$%@ I hope I can find it back. That would suck! I don't recall seeing it anywhere!
Is that a problem if I cannot find it back???? I found a source here: http://www.competitionproducts.com/Howards-Extreme-Duty-Billet-Main-Caps/products/1071/
I am just concerned about the register.

What is a safe way to get that rust of? Wire wheel doesn't seem like a good idea.

Getting those oil plugs out - I ready that the only way is heating to red hot with an acetylene torch and squirting WD40 (I'm afraid I don't have an acetylene torch) Braking off 1/4-inch drive trying to pry it out seem like a bad idea.

busterrm said:
If it is a 1980 block, look at lifter valley and front cam tunnel for castings that may allow to drill/tap for OEM stepnose roller cam.

Once I know what I am looking for I'll look for it

After it is cleaned with detergent and high pressure... liberally spray with WD40?

'will measure the bores this evening.

DorianL · Sep 20, 2016

busterrm said:
Just FYI, external balance rot assemblies have less block clearance work, internal balance more.....
External has weighted balancer and flexplate/flywheel. Unless you have a very radical cam, 6 in rods are not really needed, 5.7 or 5.85 rods will work fine. Comp ht of pistons : 5.7 = 1.425, 5.85 = 1.275, both keep the wrist pin out of the oil ring. JMHO

Hm, for some reason it seems wiser to have an internally balanced... in case you need one day to replace the damper or the flywheel.

Grumpy · Sep 20, 2016

read carefully. both those rear main caps state DRY SUMP.
http://www.competitionproducts.com/Howards-Extreme-Duty-Billet-Main-Caps/products/1071/
yes you'll ALWAYS NEED to verify clearances carefully when assembling any engine and no, you can,t assume everything will fit just because its part of a component list thats suppose to fit correctly, simply because manufacturing is an imprecise process and mistake do get made occasionally!
IF you do some careful shopping you'll find that decent connecting rods are available at semi reasonable prices, I would insist on 7/16" ARP rod bolts and 4340 forged steel, and suggest SCAT, as a lower cost but good value connecting rod source
shop carefully cam bearing tools sell for $40-$300 plus and almost identical tools car vary in price by over $120, and be awre all cam bearings in a single block may be different sizes based on the location, so pay attention as you remove them as to the oil feed hole location(S), how they are indexed or clocked and the outside diameter and be aware in many cases the bearing is beveled on one side to aid installation

GrumpyThe Grumpy Grease MonkeyStaff Member

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-23-Piece-Ball-Joint-U-Joint-Service-Kit-648617/203120548?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-Garage-Automotive|&gclid=CM7-rI-e-tQCFUa4wAodcnEHfg&gclsrc=aw.ds

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-3 ... 60669.html

harbor freight has cheap and perfectly acceptable calipers

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-dial-caliper-62362.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-918999/?image=large

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9942/overview/

one factor I find rather annoying is that every time I price out tools, I purchased years ago , or need to replace worn out tools,
, the price has increased a great deal, Ive purchased dozens of tools over the decades,
and yeah, occasionally lent those out and its seems like a great many never get returned or get returned with broken or missing parts.
yeah I'm well aware of inflation, but its still a bit of a shock when a tool you purchased a decade ago now lists for 2-3 times what you originally paid.

RELATED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

Stealth TPI Induction - L98 Stroker Installation - Super Chevy Magazine

This Chevrolet L98 TPI engine has its displacement stroked to 383 cubic inches and has stealth mods installed including a new cam and an extrude honed tuned port injection system to make 458 HP - Super Chevy Magazine

www.motortrend.com

OWNING AND HAVING ACCESS TOO<a PRESSURE WASHER WILL BE A HUGE ASSET in removing surface stains crud and some rust and remaining surface oil

http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty

read carefully. both those rear main caps state DRY SUMP. that indicates no in the oil pan,oil pump passages even thought the lower one shows one

notice the open slot between the rear main cap supporting the oil pump and bearing shell support and the area supporting the rear main seal, this prevents PRESSURIZED oil from the bearings reaching the rear main seal.

the as cast recess in the rear main cap where the oil pump mounts can be rather restrictive and shallow, and if your replacing a missing main cap , with one from a different block you'll very likely be required to have the block?cap too be line honed to get the correct alignment and fit clearances for the crank shaft

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-to-take-awhile-but-theres-good-tips.15295/

DorianL · Sep 20, 2016

I measured three bores: 3.990 on average
Presumably it has never been rebuilt.

I was not able to find back the rear cap. Rats! Why the hell did I misplace that????

Thanks grumpy. I do have a high pressure spray.

We'll have to look into a source for a replacement cap sometime.

Other than a high pressure spray, can i do something about the rust? Or will machining clean that off?

And those oil galley plugs... do I need an acetylene torch to get them out? Or would propane have a chance of working?

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

The rear galley usually already 1/4 npt heat them and they might break lose, after a long rod can tap out the front plugs

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

chromebumpers said:
Busterrm, I didn't know you really know your stuff!

Well, I have been working on engines/cars since I was 9-10 years old, thats been 46-47 years now. I've picked a few things in that time!

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

DorianL said:
Hm, for some reason it seems wiser to have an internally balanced... in case you need one day to replace the damper or the flywheel.

It really is a personal thing, budget is sometimes the deciding factor, internal cost more. But honestly, how often is a balancer replaced, if it's top quality, on a new build, and it's installed and removed correctly? Flexplate/Flywheel yeah probably more likely, but again cared for correctly a flywheel/flexplate of top quality will last a considerable amount of time.

DorianL · Sep 20, 2016

Well i tried heating with propane and spaying WD40 but I chickened out with my 1/4-inch drive. I know SnapOn has a tool for this. Like a 1/4-inch drive but heavy duty

I'll see if I can locate one this weekend

DorianL · Sep 20, 2016

Indeed that makes sense in external balance.

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

Roller block pictures

Above, the bolt holes on either side of the cam tunnel are for stepnose OEM roller cam retainer plate.

See the 3 pedestals along the center, they are for the spider retainer, the machined surface above lifter bores is for the dogbones that hold the lifters to keep roller straight on the cam lobe. This is what I was alluding to in one of my posts.

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

DorianL said:
Well i tried heating with propane and spaying WD40 but I chickened out with my 1/4-inch drive. I know SnapOn has a tool for this. Like a 1/4-inch drive but heavy duty

I'll see if I can locate one this weekend

You have to get cast iron pretty hot, stay off the plug though.

busterrm · Sep 20, 2016

Looks like block ID thread says Chromebumpers just about confirms its a 1972 block, but look for roller telltale signs could be a early 1980 block, got my fingers crossed, make it easier to put a roller cam in the block. Here's what the cam retainer looks like.

Grumpy · Sep 20, 2016

http://www.harborfreight.com/1600-watt-heavy-duty-dual-temperature-heat-gun-10001100-69342.html
AFTER heating it to get the block 100% dried off,
and plastic bag it and place it in a dry place off the floor,
(preferably on a cheap but fairly sturdy engine stand)
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69521.html

or it will start rusting in hours
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-crane-and-engine-stand-mods-accesories.3724/

busterrm · Sep 21, 2016

I agree, I did a wash of my block after I deburred the main caps, main registers, and cast flashing, I oiled the bores and mains after drying it. I tapped it off and painted the outside(2 coats), pulled the tape, over 8-10 hrs later all surfaces not oiled had flash rusted, scotchbrite fixed it after 3-4 hrs of elbow grease, then it got a complete generous coat WD-40. I could not believe it rusted that fast, but it did!

busterrm · Sep 21, 2016

DorianL said:
Well i tried heating with propane and spaying WD40 but I chickened out with my 1/4-inch drive. I know SnapOn has a tool for this. Like a 1/4-inch drive but heavy duty

I'll see if I can locate one this weekend

Might try drilling for square easeout. Heat the cast iron, while a helper keeps heat on it drive in the easeout and try to break it loose. I've had to get them out that way some! Some bolt extractors(easeout) are spiral, some are square, both work but I prefer the square. While it's still hot the impact of driving it in should jar it enough to break it loose then run it out with the 1/4 ratchet

Another 383 build...

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