anyone running a turbo(s) on E85 ?


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anyone running a turbo(s) on E85, this seems like its almost a no-brainer with E85 at $1.90-$2 a gallon VS race octane fuel at $8- $10 a gallon
now Im fully aware that the fuel swap requires a different carb , or larger jets, or different injectors as youll also need different and larger fuel lines and fuel pumps ETC. that can handle the ethanol without problems and about 40% higher volume of fuel flow rates.
lower exhaust temps, that allow turbos to have increased durability and less lubrication issues,the ability to run 13:1 to as much as 17:1 compression ratios easily, without detonation, which increase.s torque and reasonably easy access to lower cost fuel have some advantages.
yes theres also potential issues with corrosion in the fuel system, but there are additives to limit the potential issues






viewtopic.php?f=55&t=4381&p=11507&hilit=ethanol#p11507 ... toview=SKU ... MZvJS7O2PI

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the issue that was brought up here once before was the seasonal variation of the blends of e85 that could be from e60-e85... so whatever your tune is on, may be different from the swill in the tank at the moment.... so its not easy to lock in a tune and make the run to its fullest potential every time out. unless you use e98... e98 is a 98% ethanol race fuel that various companies offer that is a consistent e98 blend, not AS CHEAP as pump Egas but my cost is about 300-350 bucks for a 55gal drum which makes it alot less than c16 or q16 and its environmentally conscious for you hippies as a sustainable race gas.
philly said:
wow i just found a site offereng e98 for 339 and another offering c16 for 979 bucks bot in 55 gal drums... thats a significant cost savings.
if you super charge or use turbos read this
links to both sites might be useful
E85 has about 30% less energy per gallon than petroleum race fuel, but you need to run about 35%-40% more fuel, so theres potentially a significant LOSS in mileage but a GAIN (if properly tuned) in over all power of near 5%-7% with E85, AND YOUR ENGINE WILL TEND TO RUN 15 DEGREES COOLER ON AVERAGE
(obviously the the use of a turbo has the potential to boost power much higher than the fuel change alone)
keep in mind the turbos will provide a good deal more mid and upper rpm potential torque due to the greater cylinder pressure the , E85 fuel could produce.
you won,t need to spin a 509 BBC very high in the rpm band to get the power youll want.
keep in mind ethanol is HYGROSCOPIC

absorbing or attracting moisture from the air.

and as such it tends to both cause and aggravate corrosion issues, so youll generally have to add a corrosion inhibitor too the fuel or have a small secondary fuel tank you use to run the engine on pure race gas until it heats up and one you switch too 2-3 minutes before the engines turned off so the fuel lines and pump, filters etc, and generally youll want to add an upper cylinder lube additive to e85 plus change your oil more frequently if the engines nor driven almost daily , so parts washed with e85 don,t degrade over time as the E85 tends to accumulate moisture rapidly in storage


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Excellent article from a White Lake Marine on blended fuels in boats:

The Problems With Ethanol

In the spring and early summer of this year (2010), we at White Lake Marine have experienced no less than an epidemic of boat owners complaining about ethanol related fuel problems. These problems range from poor performance due to hard starting, rough running, hesitation, and even stalling -- to clogged up fuel filters and injectors, and also gummed up carburetors. In addition, more and more customers are continuing to bring their boats in for repairs for the same symptoms.

In the meanwhile, we have spent many hours researching this new dilemma for our dealership and valued customers. Besides reading much material on the subject, we have spoken at length with officials at Pleasure Craft Marine and Indmar, well known manufacturers of marine engines. We have also consulted with personnel at oil and gasoline distributors, including one terminal where ethanol is actually blended with fuel. And last but not least, we have consulted with personnel with the manufacturers of Sea Foam and Marine Sta-bil which are special stabilizers for ethanol gasoline.

After doing the research and collecting facts and opinions from many different sources, we have come to realize there are several common sense questions that need to be answered. The following is a brief overview of these issues:

Why is ethanol just now becoming such a huge problem?

Prior to 2009, ethanol was not in all the fuel we use in many regions of the southeastern United States. However, in the summer and fall of that year -- and particularly in the first six months of this year -- all the gasoline distributors began converting their stations over to ethanol fuels. Also, bear in mind that, thanks to our politicians, there is no notification required by law unless more than ten percent of ethanol is added to fuel. Even premium gas now has ethanol.

Unsuspecting boat owners purchased this ethanol blended fuel and stored their boats for the winter. As it turns out, vehicles which sit for long periods of time, such as boats, lawn mowers, weed eaters, tractors etc are more
susceptible to ethanol problems.

The reason is as follows:
Ethanol is a magnet for water.
It attaches itself to water, whether from the bottom of the tank where natural condensation has occurred, or even from the air in the tank. Normally, water falls to the bottom where it is out of harms way until it reaches an unsafe level. However, ethanol actually “pulls” the moisture out of the air into the gasoline and suspends this water in the fuel, contaminating the whole tank. Being suspended in the fuel, the engine is then burning a mixture of gasoline and water -- all the time. Eventually, the ethanol separates from the gasoline (phase separation) and falls to the bottom of the tank still attached to the water, forming a “glob” of sticky material. When this substance accumulates high enough in the tank, then the engine is drawing in pure ethanol and water -- stalling the engine.

Cars and trucks are generally used every day, and therefore, use up the ethanol fuel in a more timely fashion, giving it less time to cause problems. However, be sure it is in fact accumulating moisture in those tanks as well over a longer period of time, and if allowed to accumulate, water can wreak havoc on the entire fuel system.

Another potential problem exists with the gas stations:
Bear in mind that ethanol is very corrosive and attacks aluminum and fiberglass tanks. It also attacks rubber fuel lines and other fuel system components unless they were manufactured specifically for use with ethanol.

According to the oil and gas distributors we spoke with, they cleaned their station tanks before adding ethanol fuels. However, it is true that some station owners did not, and as a result, the new ethanol fuels scrubbed and scoured their tanks free of old rust and accumulated debris. Then this loosened material actually went into many vehicles causing much damage. We know of one person whom this has already happened to, and reports of many others.

It is also noteworthy to mention that, due to the problems with ethanol, the oil companies refuse to allow ethanol fuels to be pumped in their main pipelines. They insist it be blended at the terminals where trucks are loaded for shipment to gas stations. It is not good for the oil companies -- but it is fine for our vehicles.

Another potential problem with gas stations is the fact that whereas ethanol is separating from fuel and collecting moisture in our vehicles, it is also happening in the tanks at the gas stations -- a fact you won’t hear much about. However, it is common sense, as the same conditions exist in those underground tanks as does in vehicle tanks. As long as the station owners are vigilant and check their tanks on a frequent basis, and then pump out any ethanol and water collected on the bottom, then perhaps all will be well. However, when left to accumulate to a certain level, a concentration of water and ethanol is pumped into vehicles, again causing much harm. One station attendant at a large Exxon station confided they must check their tanks every day because of this very problem.

Other harmful effects of ethanol:

While the purpose of ethanol is supposedly to lessen our dependence on foreign oil, and since it burns more cleanly due to its plant (non petroleum) origins, it is also used as a less expensive method of boosting gasoline octane. When the ethanol separates from gasoline, then the fuel looses its octane rating, causing pinging or spark knocking in engines, again causing potential harm. Also, ethanol is a dry fuel in that it scours the oil film from cylinder walls, causing piston rings and other components to wear prematurely. Reports of ethanol damage to engines are being made more frequently, and lawsuits are becoming more common. A search on the internet for ethanol problems will give pause for serious reflection. However, beware there are some websites that give false information such as one which states that vehicles manufactured since 1970 can safely use ethanol. Don’t believe it -- as experience has proven otherwise.

What can I do about the problem with ethanol?
Generally speaking, the gasoline distributors have left a few stores scattered around that still have non-ethanol fuel.

You should immediately try and locate an ethanol free store in your area and use it in everything you own -- especially those vehicles that sit idle for long periods of time. It would be wise to call a few gasoline distributors in your area and they will advise you which of their stores have non-ethanol gas. The station attendants often do not know for sure, since it may not be posted on the pumps.

Secondly, you should get a can of Sea Foam or the new Marine Sta-bil and put it in every vehicle. (Sea Foam can be found at automotive parts stores, Super Wal-Marts, and marine dealers. Marine Sta-bil can be found at marine dealers and some parts stores.) This will help disperse the water already accumulated in the tank and help to make it burn with minimal harmful effects.

These special stabilizers literally take the water away from the ethanol by isolating the water molecules. They also have cleaning agents and emulsifiers to liquefy the gum and varnish already formed in the system. If problems still persist you will have to have your tank cleaned and new filters installed. By the way, the stabilizers used in the past, including regular Sta-bil, have only a minimal effect with ethanol fuels.

If you must use ethanol gasoline in your boat or other vehicles that are idle for long periods of time, you will have to use one of these stabilizers in every tank of gas -- or else pay someone to remedy the inevitable problems which will occur.

According to Sea Foam, for your everyday car or truck, you should use a can of their stabilizer in your fuel tank every 3,000 or 4,000 miles. This will ensure the moisture and phase separation will be reduced to a minimum, thereby preventing or minimizing any long term ill effects.

Another point to be made is ethanol causes poor gas mileage, especially when phase separation occurs. We have found that a tank full of non-ethanol fuel and a can of one of these special stabilizers will restore fuel economy and give a noticeable increase in performance.

You will probably be interested in knowing there are at least three contenders for the best treatments for ethanol gasoline. Sea Foam Marine Sta-Bil Startron and Sta-bil marine.



when you NEED TO FILL A MUSCLE CAR TANK, HERES MY LOCAL STATION, yes it costs more short term, easily an extra 70-80 cents a gallon, but you don,t run nearly the same risk of trashing your muscle cars engine and fuel delivery systems

E85 gas station locations


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There is just 1 gas station near me left that sells 100% Pure gasoline.
Its just 91 R/M2.
That Ethanol just causes all sorts of issues as stated.
What they fail to mention is that E10 gas causes any older EFI Or factory carburated engine to run 7% leaner AFR All the time.
ECM Does no compensate correct bone stock in OB1 Vehicles.
time to invest in a fuel water separator, protect your machines everyne
grumpyvette said:
I,m not too concerned with the micron count on the filter even 100 micron count filter element would catch 99% of the crud that might damage a fuel system, if it had a 100 micron count it would be fine, it has a 2 micron, but that does not restrict flow, because like an oil filter it has a huge surface area, and fuel is very low viscosity, fluid.
the point here in my opinion is mostly to have a high flow capacity filter thats easily accessed and fairly cheap and easy to change so its changed occasionally as doing that is critical to maintaining the durability of the fuel pump and the whole fuel system, the main advantage of using a fuel filter like this is its large internal filter surface area that allows it to have almost no measurable flow restriction and the ability to spin that valve on the base to check/test , drain off a bit of the fuel for a regular test for water contamination in the fuel supply,today,s E10 pump fuel tends to contain , or readily collect water from air moisture and water quickly kills the internal parts in fuel pumps,the basic filter , DESIGN, that traps and blocks water from reaching the fuel pump,which is a major reason electric fuel pumps fail, and the ability to spin off the filter like a common oil filter, with an easily carried and easily replaced spare, and quickly replace it if you find its got trapped crud in the filter.


fuelsepa.png Engine Tuning/E85 Basics.html
What makes E85 Special?
At first one would think that using E85 would make little sense being that the BTU rating of ethanol (also called Ethyl Alcohol) is less than that of gasoline, meaning it has less British Thermal Units (energy) per molecule, but that is not true. Each fuel has its own BTU rating just like Natural Gas, and even though Ethonol based fuels have a lower BTU rating than gasoline, they require you to inject such a large quantity to reach stoiciometric combustion that the acutal amount of molecules in the combustion chamber is greater so the total number of BTU's is greater also. On avg you can expect to gain around 5% more efficiency on a high ethonal based fuel. Other low BTU fuels would be like those on natural gas. Engines that have recieved CNG Conversions would be a great example.


This brings up the idea that just like adding high octane race gas to a stock motor on stock timing, you will see little to no gains, the same is true with running E85 with no tune. In fact, you can actually lose power not to mention it takes 20%-30% more E85 to reach stoich so I would doubt the car would idle much less run on E85 without a change to the cars ECU to tune for it. E85, like race gas, is for those of us who are pushing cylinder pressures to the limit of detonation. What “potentially” makes it better than race gas is the price. Currently E85 sells for around $2.75 a gallon.

Uses for E85
Because of the alcohol/gasoline mixture, E85 has a rough estimate octane rating of between 105-113 octane depending on the mixture. Also the alcohol in E85 has a HUGE cooling property associated with it as well. E85 has a lot of the cooling properties that you also find with Water Meth Injection. ( It is great at lowering intake temperatures, lowering engine block and head temperatures, and basically doing everything that can help suppress detonation. So with E85 being SO amazing, why don’t we all convert over and start using it?

Cons for use
Because of the fact that E85 has a BTU rating of around 30% less than that of gasoline, it also has a stoic burn that requires 30% more fuel than Gasoline. Because of this most should understand that to convert over to E85 takes more than just putting it in your gas tank. You need to be able to flow 30% more fuel than what you are flowing now. Then again you are converting to E85 so you can make more power, so you are most likely going to require even more fuel than just the 30%. To get to the point, you need to double the copacity of your fuel set-up on all accounts. This means, fuel pump, fuel rail, fuel lines, fuel regulator, fuel injectors……and so goes the list. In summary if you are looking to push the envelope of your motor, but don’t want to pay the 5 to 8 dollars a gallon for race gas, E85 is your fuel. If sold locally to you, the conversion is a no brainer for saving money. The up front cost of converting your fuel system to flow double the capacity must be included, but I believe can be made up quickly if the vehicle is a street car that see’s more miles than just the track. One last fun stat, some states allow E85 vehicles to travel in the HOV lanes, so go out there and drive!
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Switching To E85 Has A Lot Of Advantages. We Show You What It's Worth, And Where To Get The Stuff You Need.

E85 is a blend of 85 percent Ethanol, a grain-alcohol made from corn, and 15 percent gasoline. This mixture gives the fuel a much higher octane rating than gasoline, and is cheaper than pump gas, race gas, or methanol.

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For max power, the air/fuel mixture for E85 is ideally about 30 percent richer than for gasoline alone. (For the sake of reference, an idea stoichiometric air/fuel ratio for gasoline is 14.7:1, but only 9.765:1 for E85.) Fuel economy suffers about the same percent. The fuel-heavy mix has a cooling effect, allowing for more timing and compression. The addition of alcohol to gasoline in such a high percent gives us a significantly higher octane rating, which is posted as 105 at the pump. At about $2 a gallon on average, which is about the cheapest octane in the country, even after you account for the lower fuel economy. This octane level can easily support compression ratios up to about 14:1. Experimentation is bringing that number even higher. With this increase of compression tolerance, many engine improvements can be made.

When you’re building an engine with the intention of running on corn, your higher compression ratio limit gives E85 other advantages, but you have to take advantage of these in order to gain the full benefit of the conversion. High-compression engines by nature produce a lot of low-rpm power. This gives room for about 15 degrees longer seat-to-seat camshaft duration without hurting the low-rpm power, while increasing the high side. Lower-compression engines, 10.5:1 for example, produce most of their power at the end of the power stroke, while high-compression engines get their power from the beginning. It lets us open the exhaust valve sooner, in turn allowing us to have a smaller exhaust valve. The smaller exhaust valve can then make room for a larger intake valve. The heavy air/fuel ratio of the alcohol mix can really benefit from this change. Of course, if you’ve already purchased your heads and aren’t looking to spend a ton of money re-machining them, you can still get some of the benefit with a camshaft swap.

A downside to E85 is that it’s very dry. You may have noticed how rubbing alcohol leaves your skin white and dry. This fuel craves moisture the same way. It pulls water from the atmosphere and carries it into the fuel system. Water isn’t necessarily a detriment to power, but it can cause premature failure of fuel system components along the way. Water accelerates oxidation, and can destroy fuel lines, pumps, and filters from the inside. We will talk about what makes a product alcohol-compliant later on in the story.

Another one of E85’s downfalls is that the government doesn’t control its content very closely. The assumed 85 percent ethanol is no guarantee of its actual content. Winter blends of the fuel can be as low as 70 percent to accommodate cold-starting conditions. Big Brother says the mixture has to be between 70 and 90 percent. With a late-model, fuel-injected car built to accept E85, the difference isn’t noticeable, however, when a carburetor is subjected to this variance, it can’t compensate. In order for the gas companies to avoid paying a liquor tax, they denature the alcohol. This 2 percent of poison added to achieve the denaturing element is only hoped to burn, not formulated to complement the alcohol. People in the racing fuel industry refer to this poison as “refinery drippings.”

Aside from the changes in the mixture ratio, the gasoline side of the equation is hardly monitored at all. As with the blend percent, gasoline changes seasonally, and there are no minimum octane level requirements. Unlike gasoline, E85 is not required to have any additives to protect your engine or improve its burn.

E85 has some great performance benefits and a lot of potential. Since the pump blend is formulated to be used on computer-controlled “Flex-Fuel” vehicles, there is a lot of room for variances in the fuel’s composition that carburetors can’t account for on the fly. In the vast majority of cases, the mixture ranges in a narrow band from 83-87 percent, but there is no hard guarantee. With an easy-to-use tester, or a reliable fuel supplier, this problem can be avoided. With the price of around $2 a gallon, E85’s tolerance to high compression and advanced timing can’t be beat for the money.

Gas versus E85 Metering
Here’s a basic comparison on what the metering changes are from gasoline to E85 in a 750-cfm carburetor. Specifications courtesy of Barry Grant.
Main jets 76/83 85/93
Idle air bleeds 70 63
High-speed air bleed 39 29
Booster legs 160 169
Squirter 31 35
Needle/seat 110 130
Idle feed restrictor 39 36
Where Can I Get E85?
The biggest hurdle in a beneficial conversion is access to the fuel. In California and other western states, the juice is nearly impossible to find. On the other hand, states like Minnesota have it off every freeway exit. Check the map showing the concentration of pumps in the Midwest, and the absence everywhere else. The price for E85 has been consistently reported to be slightly less than the lowest grade gasoline available, putting the average around $2 a gallon. There are over 2,000 E85 retail filling stations out there, and the numbers are growing, but not as fast as we’d like. In order, Minnesota, Illinois, and Wisconsin have the highest number of E85 stations. If you don’t live in the grain-belt, you will have to travel to get the fuel, and until it becomes more readily available, you may hold off on the conversion for a street car.

In a race application, you aren’t bound by the convenience factor, since most race cars don’t have to travel very far under their own power. This is where Rockett Brand Racing Fuels comes in. They produce an E85 fuel that is guaranteed to be 85 percent ethanol, unlike the pump stuff. This consistency is very important to drag racers who need their cars to run consistently. Rockett has the same government requirement to de-nature the alcohol used in the fuel, but they use a special additive that actually burns well. Instead of throwing whatever gasoline they can find into the mix, they’ve created a special blend of chemicals used for building race gas to work optimally with the ethanol. Rockett knows the fuel needs additives that the government doesn’t require. Alcohol has poor lubrication properties, so they’ve added lubricants in addition to corrosion inhibitors. This special attention to the fuel’s contents gives it a 112-octane rating, far more than the government’s estimated 105-octane pump E85. To find out what E85 fueling stations might be near you, log onto the National Ethanol Vehicle Coalitions’ website:

“There are over 2,000 E85 retail filling stations out there, and the numbers are growing…”

E85 Carburetors
Since the air/fuel ratio for E85 is much lower than for gasoline, the carburetor has to be specifically calibrated for it. Carburetor manufacturers have put a lot of R&D into their E85 carburetors to run this new fuel. Many have built carbs for methanol racing fuel for some time now, and their internal passages are significantly larger than those of a gasoline carb. Since the volume of fuel needed for alcohol applications is higher, the metering system has to be dead-on in order for it to run correctly. Simply modifying a gasoline- or methanol-style carburetor with jet and air bleed changes isn’t enough for the conversion. Since alcohol has a tendency to pick up water from the atmosphere, the gaskets and other sealing materials can’t be sensitive to oxidation. PHR contributor, David Vizard, has done quite a bit of experimenting with E85. He has found that doing only a carburetor swap to convert to E85 on a 10.5:1 engine yielded a 6hp gain. In this case that was a 2 percent change. While changing the carburetor by itself doesn’t give a huge power boost, it is the first and most crucial change to make.


AED Performance
With almost 30 years of experience building carburetors, AED has it down. Like other custom shops, they can build you just about any size carburetor to run E85. Their E85 carbs use cast metering blocks because they prefer their sealing characteristics to the billet units for these carburetors specifically.

750-cfm high-output (gas) 750-HO $499.95
750-cfm high-output (E85) 750-HO-E85 $619.95

Barry Grant
Currently, Barry Grant has Mighty Demon E85 carburetors for general competition, and drag-race specific versions in 650, 750, 825, and 850 cfm. They will be adding their line of King Demons to the E85 product list late this summer.

750-cfm Mighty Demon (gas) 540-2010-GC $549.95
750-cfm Mighty Demon (E85) 740-2010-GC $649.95

C&S Specialties
C&S builds every carburetor tailored to a particular engine. Among the factors they consider are engine size, compression, purpose, altitude, and of course, fuel type. C&S builds their E85 carburetors to flow the additional 30 percent over gasoline, and they install stainless steel needles and seats. C&S doesn’t charge a different price for E85.

750-cfm steet/strip (gas or E85) n/a $700-$1,100

Pro Systems
As a custom builder, Pro Systems can make just about any carburetor you want. They build 4150-style units from 750-1040 cfm, and 4500s from 900-1800 cfm.

750-cfm for up to 500 hp (gas) n/a $620
750-cfm for up to 500 hp (E85) n/a $790

Quick Fuel Technologies
Quick Fuel Technologies offers 4150-style E85 carburetors in 650-1050 cfm ratings. They’ve built E85-specific billet metering blocks and base plate to get the most power out of the alcohol/gasoline mix.

750 cfm (gas) Q-750 $603.51
750 cfm (E85) Q-750-E85 $736.84
E85 Test Kit
If you’re stuck at the pump and need to be able to tune your car optimally, you will need to test its actual ethanol content. Quick Fuel Technologies (QFT) produces a testing kit that can help you know what to expect when you run it. The testing process is simple. There are two fill lines on the test tube. You fill to the first line with water, and the second with the E85 in question. The next step is to shake the tube, set it upright and let it rest for a minute. The gasoline will separate from the water and alcohol to show what percent it is. The QFT part number is 36-E85, and the kit retails for $14.99.

Fuel Pumps
Selecting a fuel pump to run your E85 powerplant is pretty simple. The issues with the alcohol-based fuels have already been addressed for racers using methanol race fuel. Since both methanol and ethanol expose the fuel system to water, unlike gasoline, the pumps need to be able to endure the water’s corrosiveness. The other compensation to make is for the increased flow needed for the lower air/fuel mixture. Fuel pumps built for methanol already outflow those made for gasoline. With these things accommodated for, any fuel pump that is compatible with methanol will also work for E85.


Quick Fuel Technologies
Quick Fuel Technologies offers 4150-style E85 carburetors in 650-1050 cfm ratings. They’ve built E85-specific billet metering blocks and base plate to get the most power out of the alcohol/gasoline mix.

750 cfm (gas) Q-750 $603.51
750 cfm (E85) Q-750-E85 $736.84

Barry Grant
All of the BG pumps are compatible with E85, but they have two models they highly recommend for up to 650 hp. One is their street pump, which comes with a regulator, and the other is their drag-race only version that has a higher flow rating, but doesn’t feature an option for a return line, so street use is discouraged.

220-gph up to 650 hp (street) 170013 $249.00
280-gph up to 650 hp (drag race only) 17002 $299.11

As the only mechanical pump in the E85 lineup, Edelbrock comes through with their Victor Series Billet Aluminum pump. They are available for a small- and big-block Chevy, small-block Ford, and small-block Chrysler.

Victor Billet Aluminum 170-gph mechanical 17000 $411.39
Regulator 1727 $99.75
Fuel Lines
All of the manufacturers recommended that their fuel pumps be gravity fed, and put a huge emphasis on the importance of large enough lines. For street and light racing use they recommend a -10 line (about 1/2-inch ID) from the tank to the filter and pump assembly, then from the pump to the regulator. Depending on the pump and application, a -8 or larger return line may be needed. Each system is different, so asking your pump manufacturer for specifics is recommended. As a general rule, use high-quality AN fittings with a consistent inside diameter throughout.

We’ve got some very mixed feedback about which specific lines are compatible with E85. The carburetor manufacturers all told us that any quality steel braided or similar lines have shown no problems running alcohol through them. On the other hand, the manufacturers of the lines themselves were hesitant to put their stamp of approval on it, despite the overwhelming positive feedback. Newer cars are using neoprene or coated metal hard lines for most of their E85 plumbing. Metal lines that don’t have an internal coating can be an issue.



We’ve seen Earl’s product all over race cars, and for good reason. They have an extensive line of hoses, fittings, and adapters to complete your fuel system. They recommend using their Speed-Flex hose for E85. It’s got an extruded Teflon liner with a stainless steel outer braid. It comes in AN sizes -3 through -8, and is even resistant to brake fluid.

Speed-Flex -6 hose n/a $6.51/ft
Speed-Flex -8 hose n/a $7.54/ft
Since alcohol-based fuels tend to carry more water than gasoline, the filters can’t be water-soluble. Paper is more sensitive to exposure to water than other materials, so they should be avoided unless the manufacturer states it is alcohol friendly. Most of the top-shelf filters use a metal or plastic screen to catch debris. Another issue with the filters can be the O-ring style fittings. Some O-rings not designed to work with alcohol will dry out.


Barry Grant
If you’ve chosen BG’s 170013 or 17002 pumps, you can easily attach their E85-safe fuel filter with a simple adapter.

BG5000 filter 170018 $94.51
Adapter 140019 $13.01

Russell, and Edelbrock, their parent company, carry several fuel filters. All of their filters are E85 compliant with the exception of their Aluminum Street Series. The filters below come in red, black, or blue anodized, or polished aluminum housings. They are serviceable, and Russell sells replacement filter elements.

-10 filter with removable element 649160 $77.95
Filter element 649180 $34.95
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one factor you really can,t ignore here is that building an engine thats got 13:1 or a bit higher, compression
and matching that high compression ratio,
to the correct 112 -116 octane fuel can potentially produce impressive power,
within limits ,the higher the compression ratio the efficient the common automotive v8 engine will become, at producing power.
e85 (85% ethanol mix)tends to sell for about 70% of the price of pump gas per gallon,
the problem is that much of the pump e85 is no where near consistent in quality or octane.
Im also forced to point out that Corrosion of most metal
(because alcohol absorbs water from air)and alcohol dissolves,
some types of synthetic
(rubber, some gasket sealers,and some plastic) is all too common with alcohol.

and yes if you throw a 1/2 pint of M.M.O. in the full fuel tank , for every 10 gallons, of either race gas or e85 it helps lube the valve train and rings and potentially reduce problems

on the plus side e85 pump fuel generally costs about $2.20-$2.30
currently in my area and
race octane fuel generally cost $13-$14 a gallon
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