Building a S̶t̶r̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶3̶5̶0̶ 383 for Frank the Tank…

Check the Water Pump Jimmy.
Likely leaking at times out the bottom weep hole.

Most Tuners do EFI.
Not many around want to tinker with carbs & distributor mechanical advance.
Have to dial it in yourself.

Been a long day.
I will come back in the morning.
 
Thanks Brian, I'll check, but it's dripping off the back of the engine when it's not moving and didn't notice sign of coolant or paint damage in front.. so, I'm anticipating the leak is near back..

Yeah, the guy yesterday was described as old school expert.. but, it seemed like a rush job in between other repairs and stuff on modern cars..

I just borrowed a new timing light off my neighbour, so confirmed mine works and that I'm only getting 28 total timing no matter what I do.. noticed that the mark may be jumping higher occasionally.. I'll try and borrow a working dizzy.. anything else to check?
 
To clarify... if I set initial to 11 the highest total I get is 27-28... so, 16-17 mechanical.. I didn't actually test it yet, but I'm assuming I'd need to go 19-20ish initial to get 36 total.. I have a bushing stop installed that is supposed to give 28 mechanical... I'll borrow a working dizzy and that'll confirm it.. are you guys thinking fiddle more with this distributor or start thinking about a new one..?
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Thanks Brian, I'll check, but it's dripping off the back of the engine when it's not moving and didn't notice sign of coolant or paint damage in front.. so, I'm anticipating the leak is near back..

Yeah, the guy yesterday was described as old school expert.. but, it seemed like a rush job in between other repairs and stuff on modern cars..

I just borrowed a new timing light off my neighbour, so confirmed mine works and that I'm only getting 28 total timing no matter what I do.. noticed that the mark may be jumping higher occasionally.. I'll try and borrow a working dizzy.. anything else to check?
Click to expand...
If You have a Penlight Black Light or a Large Blacklight it will help you find & Verify the Coolant Leak source.
 
JimmyDuncan said:
Thanks Brian, I'll check, but it's dripping off the back of the engine when it's not moving and didn't notice sign of coolant or paint damage in front.. so, I'm anticipating the leak is near back..

Yeah, the guy yesterday was described as old school expert.. but, it seemed like a rush job in between other repairs and stuff on modern cars..

I just borrowed a new timing light off my neighbour, so confirmed mine works and that I'm only getting 28 total timing no matter what I do.. noticed that the mark may be jumping higher occasionally.. I'll try and borrow a working dizzy.. anything else to check?
Click to expand...
Try rotating the Chevy distributor counter clockwise manual after loosing the distributor hold down clamp.
Timing should advance at idle and engine revved up checking total ignition advancve.
If not them the timing light is garbage.
 
28 degrees BTDC total timing was typical used for 87 octane gasoline here in the USA.
32-36 degrees typical used for 91-93 octane.

No set in stone ignition timing rule.
You find the best combination that works for you.
 
If the starter motor was not grinding before then something happened to the starter.
Most likely the Armature bushings are worn out along with the starter motor Bendix drive unit.
 
Jimmy may start reading your plugs and dial in your own timing curve. Get a pad and start keeping notes on your combo. Time to be your own data logger. It's the fun of hot rodding. Try it all seems that the dyno guys are willing to do the easy part set your fuel mixure. I run a wide band always good tuning tool. Takes the guess work out of afr.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Try rotating the Chevy distributor counter clockwise manual after loosing the distributor hold down clamp.
Timing should advance at idle and engine revved up checking total ignition advancve.
If not them the timing light is garbage.
Click to expand...
I'm fairly certain it not an issue with the light.. I got exact same readings with a new out of the box light my neighbour lent me.. it seems the distributor is only allowing max 16 degrees mechanical advance.. but, I will try advancing the initial to about 20 briefly to see if I get 36 total that way..
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
If the starter motor was not grinding before then something happened to the starter.
Most likely the Armature bushings are worn out along with the starter motor Bendix drive unit.
Click to expand...
Yeah, first time it did it was a few days ago.. could coolant leaking on/in it be related.. or just coincidence..?

I'll pull it and give it a clean and inspection.. maybe that'll get me a bit longer out of it.. maybe rebuild it..?
 
Strictly Attitude said:
Jimmy may start reading your plugs and dial in your own timing curve. Get a pad and start keeping notes on your combo. Time to be your own data logger. It's the fun of hot rodding. Try it all seems that the dyno guys are willing to do the easy part set your fuel mixure. I run a wide band always good tuning tool. Takes the guess work out of afr.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'll have to do it myself.. if I'm right then the dyno "tuners" don't care what the advance curve is..
A wideband sensor is on my list of one day upgrades.. ;)
 
Hey if you’re only getting 16 something is wrong, might to do some work with the mechanical weights and springs, how much are you getting with vac advance?
 
busterrm said:
Hey if you’re only getting 16 something is wrong, might to do some work with the mechanical weights and springs, how much are you getting with vac advance?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know. I was thinking the same... o_Oupload_2018-10-8_13-30-8.png I haven't investigated the vac advance yet.. In the end I've recently swapped my distributor out for Dad's old one he had on a shelf. It's a MSD Streetfire HEI. It seemed to produce a more stable idle once installed. I haven't spent a lot of time fiddling with it, but, it gave me 32 total when set at approx. 12 or 13 initial.. So better straight away and points towards my old distributor being faulty..(and the dyno tuner being full of shit..)

From the documentation online, its setup with stiff springs and approx 20 degrees available mechanical advance all in at about 4000rpm... So, not ideal for performance... I was hoping to get to 36 total, all in at about 2500-3000.. My options are to buy a spring kit and try to set a better curve with the MSD Streetfire, or buy a new MSD 8360 (I think).. the documentation says that the Streetfire is not for performance use.. I've heard mixed, but mainly good reviews of the MSD pro billet ready to run distributors... I don't think I need an ignition box.. I've got two used 6als in a box to play with later if need be..

Any thoughts?

On, new 8360 or work with streetfire?

If 36 all in at 2500-3000 is a good start?

Would I be losing much performance with only 32 total timing at coming in at 4000?

Also, how to you find the best initial timing..? keep increasing till it struggles to start, then back a bit..?


Also, exciting news!! Went to the drags two weeks back and Frank the Tank managed a 13.46!! :D


Another .5 of a second gained after rebuilding the carb (of note, the vac secondary diaphragm rod was not correct as per specs on the one that was in it…) and replacing the distributor...


That's with zero skills launching the start... I was just sitting with my foot on the brake until it went green and then planted my foot.... I'm going to try stomping on the brake when staged and bringing the revs up until it wants to override the brakes.. Then launch... Does that sound right..?


I'll post my timing slip soon. Keen to hear what the numbers indicate… I’m wondering about fuel delivery… I still have the same old thin lines from the tank and a stock mechanical fuel pump… No idea what pressure I’m getting and how that’s looking down the far end of the track…. Is it likely that I’m under-fuelled near the end of the run..?


I’ve still got to try replacing the starter solenoid and find the coolant leak…. Next after the distributor, I need to replace the alternator, so I can put in a bigger radiator and electric fans… and so on and so on…. :rolleyes:
 
congrats, getting that much car weight to run that et proves the engines producing respectable /impressive power
 
Keep Foot Brake Racing Jimmy.
You still have the stock 10-bolt rear I recall.
If you go MSD Get the Pro Billet distrubtor.
Use a 7AL or 8AL box.
More reliable than 6AL or other MSD offerings.
It's expensive yes.

I myself would use a Davis Unified HEI Distributor.
Or DUO HEI.
Summit Racing Sells.
100 % reliable and dead accurate.
Affordable.
Made in the USA.
 
Grumpy said:
congrats, getting that much car weight to run that et proves the engines producing respectable /impressive power
Click to expand...

Thanks Grumpy! I'm pretty pleased.. and keen to improve my skills and hunt down a few more tenths of a second... (5 of them would be nice ;) )
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Keep Foot Brake Racing Jimmy.
You still have the stock 10-bolt rear I recall.
If you go MSD Get the Pro Billet distrubtor.
Use a 7AL or 8AL box.
More reliable than 6AL or other MSD offerings.
It's expensive yes.

I myself would use a Davis Unified HEI Distributor.
Or DUO HEI.
Summit Racing Sells.
100 % reliable and dead accurate.
Affordable.
Made in the USA.
Click to expand...

I've actually got a 12 bolt posi with 3.3 gears now Brian :) Am I right that the best I can do with launch is to hold the brakes at the line and rev until its ready to creep forward, then plant accelerator and lift brake just before green...? I'm manual shifting the TH350 on the column... There's a bit of a lag in the 1-2 change, so I'm considering a shift kit (staying auto) one day...

Is there any real benefit to me of using a ignition box..? Over, say just MSD pro billet and coil..?

Yes, I've seen you mention DUI before... Did I read that they set the advance curve for you..? How do they get it right..? Can I tinker with it myself after installing..?
 
JimmyDuncan said:
I've actually got a 12 bolt posi with 3.3 gears now Brian :) Am I right that the best I can do with launch is to hold the brakes at the line and rev until its ready to creep forward, then plant accelerator and lift brake just before green...? I'm manual shifting the TH350 on the column... There's a bit of a lag in the 1-2 change, so I'm considering a shift kit (staying auto) one day...

Is there any real benefit to me of using a ignition box..? Over, say just MSD pro billet and coil..?

Yes, I've seen you mention DUI before... Did I read that they set the advance curve for you..? How do they get it right..? Can I tinker with it myself after installing..?
Click to expand...
The DUI Be Best Fit For You Jimmy

Straight up MSD is Real Sketchy The Low Cost Non Drag Race To Win Models.
Go By Dollars Spent MSD...UNLESS IT ADDS UP TO $1000 + It's a Piece of Shit.

Unless it's A MSD PRO MAG MANETO THAT COSTS $ 5000 SINGLE MAG 12 AMP MODEL OR PRO MAG 44 THAT COSTS $10,000 CASH .
 
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