car trailer info

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
one of the facts of life is that high performance cars tend to break down.... and its rarely sitting in your driveway when it does..... and you'll rarely have the correct tools and parts with you so getting it back to your garage usually includes towing charges UNLESS you own a car trailer,
now obviously you can buy one but if your skilled and own a welder you can usually build a nice one for less than 60% of the normal cost.
one other huge factor you'll find out over time is that a great many of the (CAR DEALS) you see over the years will be on non-running project cars other guys get fed up with working on, IF you have instant access to a decent car trailer and a winch or at least a chain jack, if your in the right place at the right time, you can occasionally make a killer deal and roll the car up on a trailer and take it home before the current owner thinks things thru carefully and decides not to sell that P.I.T.A. little project car.
I know I regret selling a few cars over the years under those conditions and IVE made more than a few car purchases under those conditions also!
If you have a decent place to store a car trailer and get a chance to buy a used one at a good price , JUMP ON THE CHANCE, its almost always a good idea!
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
molygrease.jpg

Ive had great results with this on wheel bearing and disc brake pistons e
If you want to increase your welding skills that a good project to learn on.
READ THIS
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/ ... ticle.html

if its your trailer have a dozen strong cargo loops welded into the trailer frame
welddring.jpg

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-S ... nting-Ring
Ive used a chain jack for 40 years and any good hardware store can sell you a 35 foot long section of high strength chain and matching swivel hook that both replaces the original chain on the come along jack and allows you to pull the car up full distance or use a rafters in your garage to pull engines

remember you NEED a few SOLIDLY WELDED D-RINGS as chain jack anchor points and decent ramps for loading the trailer help a great deal
http://www.championtrailers.com/techsup.html

this is where a decent MIG welder comes in handy

http://www.all-trailer-equipment.com/Ta ... rints.html

http://www.wildak.net/~rrrent/trailer_plans.htm

http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/car-car ... 18x80.html

http://www.trailerplans.com//index.php? ... 3&Itemid=2

http://www.plans-for-you.com/trailer.html

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Item ... 0000169592


http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2 ... ode=907312

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2 ... ode=907324

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2 ... ode=907321

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

a decent power metal saw will be a big plus as will a large flat area of concrete, I frequently forget , and assume most guys have access too or know what tools are involved, in most projects and have a few friends willing to get invoved in car related projects
I and several of my friends have purchased a few car trailers that needed some repairs at a very good price, I got mine at a yard sale from a guy that lost his job here,and was moving back up to GA.

It looked like crap but on close inspection it could be repaired reasonably, most of the problems were cosmetic, like bent fenders, broken lights, needing paint, etc.

It was not for sale, at the time but I left my ph# and he called. he at first asked for twice what I eventually paid for it, and even with the repairs it was a decent deal.

so its not impossible to go that route



"As far as loading a non-running vehicle onto a trailer, that's what winches are for!"

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33003

33003.gif

or if you want to get fancy

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=91905

91905.gif



trailerwinch.jpg

this type hand crank winch can be helpful on a trailer to load non-running cars but ive generally found that the chain jack style is more versatile, and handles greater loads easier

BTW
once you get to wiring the trailer lights this might come in handy

http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm

http://www.etrailer.com/faq_wiring.aspx

http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/trailerlights.html

http://www.hitchestogo.com/Trailer_Hitch_Wiring.htm

http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/t ... _tech.html

TRAILER BRAKES
any trailer used to transport a car should have decent tires , DUAL AXLES and brakes rated for at least 3700lbs per axle


http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items. ... 2god4hVULA

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items. ... =0&Tp=&Bc=


http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/items. ... =0&Tp=&Bc=

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-brakecontroller.aspx

http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/t ... s_ele.html

http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4885424_do ... work_.html

http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
5003.jpg

6001.jpg

5001.jpg

5002.jpg
 
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OK one factor I see all the time is guys who are looking for a used car trailer or want to build one, but they are clueless about what they are looking for or what they are looking at, for that matter!
first you need to understand CARS are fairly heavy and you sure don,t want to be towing a un-stable trailer at high speed, so you want at a MINIMUM a trailer with DUAL heavy duty axles and ELECTRIC BRAKES, and working lights, now the working lights are cheap to replace so that's not critical, but the axles and tires and brakes can get expensive fast!
I F you build your own trailer you'll have a wide selection of designs and components, and theres not much preventing you from upgrading a trailer if you've got decent welding skills and access to better components, but you'll quickly find that the cost of doing so can price a BARGAIN used trailer deal, up into the price range of a much nicer trailer, so shop carefully or build your trailer from good components and make it structurally stronger than you think you'll need because your eventually going to haul something heavier and longer than you might think at the beginning of ownership.
and about 90% of the trailer I see don,t have nearly enough TIE DOWN rings you will need those to secure the car firmly to the trailer,SO WELD ON EXTRAS TO MATCH YOUR APPLICATION, a MINIMUM of 8 to 10 on the trailer is the least you'll find handy to use, you don,t want the car coming thru the rear window, and rear bed of your truck used to tow that trailer when you slam on your brakes, at highway speeds.
yes youll eventually get a flat tire so carry the necessary jacks and tools and spare tires and bearings on a LOCKED trailer support box on the trailer that's WELDED to the deck so you can,t forget them, have locks on the trailer itself, the spare tires, etc.
most decent car trailers, are 18-22 feet in length, have store able or fold up RAMPS built in and two 3750 lb MINIMUM,axles with 4000-6000lb axles PREFERRED,rated axles with brakes that actually WORK WHEN TESTED and its a HUGE help to have the wheels and TIREs used on the trailer be compatible with CAR TIRE SIZES and CAR WHEEL diam. so spares are easy to locate or replace, 15" wheel size , and a ford or Chevy bolt pattern is a very good idea as is carrying a couple spare tires and rims on the trailer tongue area. its also a very good idea if your wheel bearings take standard car or truck bearings and fit a standard BEARING BUDDY bearing saver, and greasing your bearings before any long trip or at least monthly is a good idea. use a minimum of TWO load binder ratchets and a MINIMUM of 3/8" chain to secure any car on a trailer, the 2" nylon strap ratchets can be use in addition too BUT NEVER USE THEM ALONE to secure a car to a trailer.
try to center the weight over the axles.
carry SPARE KEYS, and have a buddy guide you as you back up the trailer, use moly grease on your lug nut threads, and remember your stopping distance with the trailer just tippled, so take that into account.
when loading a car on a trailer,remember to place a bit more than 1/2 the load weight forward on the trailer center-line balance point,so about 10% of the load is on the trailer hitch. I.E. 55%-60% weight forward of the balance point,and 40%-45% aft or to the rear of the balance point,this tends to reduce or prevents fish tailing


http://www.trailersforless.com/pj_6_cha ... auler.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=5511

http://www.etrailer.com/faq_trailertowtips.aspx

http://www.apcequipment.com/trailer-car ... -tips.html

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/sizegage.htm

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/best.html

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/why.html

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/6-8 ... 00_lbs.pdf

http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/axles/

http://abctrailerparts.com/bigaxles.html
 
http://www.apcequipment.com/trailer-car ... -tips.html

Before towing, double-check all of these items:


•Tires, wheels and lug nuts
•Tire Pressure. Inflate tires on trailer and tow vehicle to the pressure stated on the Certification / VIN label.
•Coupler secured and locked.
•Safety chains properly rigged to tow vehicle, not to hitch or ball.
•Test Tail, Stop, and Turn Lights
•Test trailer brakes.
•Safety breakaway lanyard fastened to tow vehicle, not to safety chains
•Cargo properly loaded, balanced and tied down.
•Tongue weight and weight distribution set-up.
•Ramps secured for travel.
•Fire extinguisher
•Flares and reflectors
•After each 50 miles, or one hour of towing, stop and check the following items:
•Coupler secured.
•Safety chains are fastened and not dragging.
•Cargo secured.
•Doors latched and secured.
•Safe Trailer Towing Guidelines
•Recheck the load tie downs to make sure the load will not shift during towing.
•Before towing, check coupling, safety chain, brakes, tires, wheels and lights.
•Check the lug nuts or bolts for tightness
•Check coupler tightness after towing 50 miles.
•Adjust the brake controller to engage the trailer brakes before the tow vehicle brakes.
•Follow the brake controller manufacturer’s literature.
•Use your mirrors to verify that you have room to change lanes or pull into traffic.
•Use your turn signals well in advance.
•Allow plenty of stopping space for your trailer and tow vehicle.
•Do not drive so fast that the trailer begins to sway due to speed.
•Generally never drive faster than 60 m.p.h.
•Allow plenty of room for passing. A rule of thumb is that the passing distance with a trailer is 4 times the passing distance without a trailer.
•Use lower gears for climbing and descending grades.
•Do not ride the brakes while descending grades; they may get so hot that they stop working. Then you will potentially have a runaway tow vehicle and trailer.
•Slow down for bumps in the road.
•Do not brake while in a curve unless absolutely necessary. Instead, slow down before you enter the curve.
•Do not apply the tow vehicle brakes to correct extreme trailer swaying. Instead, lightly apply the trailer brakes with the hand controller.
•Make regular stops, about once each hour. Confirm that
•The coupler is secure to the hitch and is locked,
•Electrical connectors are made,
•There is appropriate slack in the safety chains,
•There is appropriate slack in the breakaway switch pull pin cable,
•The tires are not visibly low on pressure, and
•The cargo is secure and in good condition.
•It is critical that the trailer be securely coupled to the hitch, and that the safety chains and emergency breakaway brake lanyard are correctly attached. Uncoupling may result in death or serious injury to you and to others.
WARNING
Proper selection and condition of the coupler and hitch are essential to safely towing your trailer. A loss of coupling may result in death or serious injury.

•Be sure the hitch load rating is equal to or greater than the load rating of the coupler.
•Be sure the hitch size matches the coupler size.
•Observe the hitch for wear, corrosion and cracks before coupling.
•Replace worn, corroded or cracked hitch components before coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.
•Be sure the hitch components are tight before coupling the trailer to the tow vehicle.
•Check emergency breakaway brake system BEFORE each tow.
 
I used to RENT a car trailer because I only need one occasionally, but after looking around and over several years seeing several for sale at a good price I eventually bought a good used trailer, once I owned one it got used reasonably often.
you might be surprised at the deals you formally passed up because the car or parts are not easily transported, that you now jump on because you own a trailer! Ive had guys GIVE ME ENGINES or CARS , for free! if I would just haul them away, nothing wrong with getting a rusted out dodge with a nice dana 60 rear for FREE! or an old CADDY with a 500 cid engine for FREE! because the transmission is junk!
http://mibearings.com/ (bearings and hubs)
BTW
if you buy a USED or even a NEW car trailer ID advise looking at the axles and bearings and repacking the bearings with fresh grease asap!
Ive seen far to many axle bearings that were seriously under lubricated, your average new car trailer will have two axles and four wheels and be about 18-20 feet long, and currently costs between about $2-$3 k
but if you shop carefully its not out of the question to find a good used car trailer in the $700-$1000 range, and at that price it will eventually more than pay for its keep
when loading a car on a trailer,remember to place a bit more than 1/2 the load weight forward on the trailer center-line balance point,so about 10% of the load is on the trailer hitch. I.E. 55%-60% weight forward of the balance point,and 40%-45% aft or to the rear of the balance point,this tends to reduce or prevents fish tailing

dualpivotwh1.jpg


C6.jpg


http://www.automedia.com/Inspect,_Repla ... 050201wb/1

http://www.trailersforless.com/pj_6_cha ... auler.html



http://www.theautoist.com/wheel_bearing_maintenance.htm

viewtopic.php?f=62&t=845&p=7320&hilit=trailer#p7320

http://jalopnik.com/259695/replace-wheel-bearings

http://www.rd.com/advice-and-know-how/s ... 11213.html

and adding BEARING BUDDIES is always a good idea
http://www.bearingbuddy.com/

http://www.bearingbuddy.com/best.html

obviously having the correct accessories and trailed design helps[/size][/color]

if its your trailer have a dozen strong cargo loops (D RINGS) welded into the trailer frame and at least 4 more on the car frame of your race car.
have at least 4 tie down ratchets,and /or a few sections of 3/8" chain with hooks

http://www.harborfreight.com/9200-lb-ra ... -5511.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth ... 40462.html
792.jpg

1438.jpg

welddring.jpg

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Ratchet-S ... nting-Ring

towaxlehooks.jpg
 
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