Cheap Good Cylinder Heads

jelco

Active Member
Where do you find good and cheap cylinder heads?
A set of these for $280 + valves + springs, reuse old rocker arms = $400
https://www.ebay.com/itm/393005918509
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322892146731
Buy used, cleaned Vortec heads with old valves and springs + Vortec intake manifold = $570?
*Currently I have this*
Engine Name: 350 LM1, #10066036
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.500”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
Intake: Not Included

I probably have this stock cam:
Hydraulic Flat tappet Camshaft- #14088839
Intake Lift-.383" Exhaust Lift-.401"
Intake Duration @ .050"- 194 Exhaust Duration @.050"- 202
Lobe Seperation-112

Carburetor: edelbrock 1406
Intake manifold: Edelbrock 2601

Headers: currently just have exhaust manifolds

The goal is to have a little bit of power on a budget for a daily driver.
watch this video
 
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if you skip over reading the links and sub-links,
you're surely missing:rolleyes:the VAST majority,
of the related info you'll need

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/


http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0705-budget-chevy-cylinder-heads/




http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0803-performance-cylinder-head-comparison/

https://www.chevydiy.com/ultimate-chevy-big-inch-small-block-cylinder-heads-cheat-sheet/

https://www.chevydiy.com/the-complete-cylinder-head-guide-for-chevy-small-block-engines/


https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/performance-aftermarket-chevy-small-block-cylinder-heads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-up-fuelie-heads-for-cheap.2099/#post-85190

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...d-to-head-test-stock-vs-dart.5364/#post-16066

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/20...ars-cylinder-heads-key-unlocking-performance/

yeah everything thats even decent quality is expensive but shop carefully

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-1021004

https://www.jegs.com/i/ProMaxx-Performance/723/2181/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/p/ProMaxx-Perf...hevy-Aluminum-Cylinder-Heads/2786544/10002/-1





 
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Yes, I would make sure to get the correct valves. I was asking for opinions on the type of heads to get based on the camshaft and engine I have.
Information overload but looks like lots of good links. Thanks!
 
you've got dozens of options, but I generally use the brodix IK 180 cc heads on similar builds,
or the brodix 200 cc port heads on more aggressive builds,used mostly on street driven cars
simply because they are high quality at a reasonable price,
and you see few issues, something thats much less true in some less expensive heads,
and it really sucks to spend $600-$700 on the cheaper heads and find out you have
valve train clearance, component alignment, the wrong valve spring load rates,
port flow restrictions, valve sealing, rocker arm algnment, push rod to guide clearance .
,valve seals that don,t fit correctly, spring bind and similar issues


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bro-1021004

related threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-79625

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tched-valve-spring-required.13774/#post-77425


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...rect-custom-length-pushrods.14241/#post-72353

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/stock-gm-push-rod-length.3844/#post-70588

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rocker-push-rod-wear-issues.9815/#post-56169

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-rockers-and-the-pushrods-rub.198/#post-46839

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-up-the-valve-train.181/page-2#post-43988

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-valve-seals.4283/#post-98512
 
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for an off brand head these promax 215cc SBC heads,
provide a decent value once cleaned up and a decent valve jobs been done
(ideally a multi angle valve job and use steel cup valve spring seats , to protect the aluminum heads,
and light weight retainers and maybe beehive valve springs)(smaller diam. retainers weigh less and beehive valve springs less prone to
harmonic valve spring surge issues) and (a rocker stud girdle might help also)
as usual talk too both the cam and head manufacturers and your machine shop, or cylinder head shop guy you trust
tfs-30400701_w.jpg

116_0310_02_z-vortec_valvesprings-spring_compressor_tool.jpg

obviously you'll need the correct valve springs and a decent hydraulic roller cam,
with between about 230-240 duration and about a .550-610 lift (use 1.6:1 ratio roller rockers)
that in turn will require a manual transmission or a 3200 rpm stall converter and about a 3.54:1-4.11:1 rear gear,
and about a 383-406 cid and about 10:1-11:1 compression ratio, in most cars to max power
 
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