first hotrod build

thinking through the fuel system and reading a two line feedback system is preferable to a single line feed. I have a stock style 32 tank with a single feed. is using a tee before the fuel pump for the return from the regulator acceptable for my situation. I will be using a 600 performer carb with an 8 lb 110 gph carter electric fuel pump. later I may upgrade to a 750 holley or comparable carb.
 
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use loc-tite on the threads and a cam button and cam button retainer plate , if its either the early style , with out the step nose and retainer plate design or later design
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I've seen a good many chevy cams ,
but I have yet to see one where they failed to thread the timing chain gear bolt holes, obviously you could drill and tap that cam core,
but I would ask for a replacement simply because if the manufacturers quality control team missed that, check on the cams fabrication,
theres a chance they also missed other quality control checks, clearances etc.
(but as I stated earlier I think the smarter route would be swapping it out, or getting a refund and shopping else-ware )


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-degreeing.9010/#post-32126

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-gear-and-timing-marks-etc.724/#post-1021

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/degree-in-that-cam-correctly.27/#post-35

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-cam-and-shifting-the-lca.10553/#post-44949

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...hanics-of-adv-ret-a-camshaft.4532/#post-12048


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-spacer-buttons.1793/
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Refresh my memory, who made the camshaft? Wouldn't hurt to repost the specs, so we
don't have to go back and search.
 
howards hydraulic oe roller 272/278 advertised duration 112 lsa. working with dd2000 this should fit my build well peak hp at 6000 and a virtualy flat torque curve from 2000 to 5500. 2000 rpm 449 5500 rpm 460 4000-4500 493 torque. have been honest with input to dd2000 hope it is close to accurate.
 
your 100% correct ,
they missed threading the cams bolt holes
have you been able to contact the manufacturer?
what did they say?
keep in mind, if you return it, they may simple run a tap through the bolt holes,
too thread that cam core, and return it too you,
which effectively will just eat a couple weeks time vs you doing the same thing




I've used the first three manufacturers for about 80% of my builds
crane (386)310-4875

crower 619.661.6477

erson 800-641-7920


lunati..662-892-1500

ISKY 323.770.0930

clay smith 714-523-0530

herbert cams 714-491 -2267
 
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will be calling howards and competition products tomorrow morning about it. I can tap the threads if necessary but only as a last measure. this is one interesting build.
 
I went with 110 I may loose a couple lbs torque and a few hp but I think it should be a flatter curve. Once together I am shure it will take a while to learn to use what I have got, it is a lot more than what I started out to build before reading all I found here.
 
on working out fuel system I found the aftermarket tank has a top fuel pickup with return that is pluged. bad thing is fittings are 1/4" npt looked for a 6 bolt 3/8 pickup with return and can't seem to find any.
 
I can make the fuel system but have a few questions. engine build should be a bit below 500hp with the ability to go well above with cam and carb change, using a carter external electric 105 gph fuel pump @ 8 psi with 3/8 npt fittings. So feed will be 3/8 -6an should the return be the same or 1/2" -8an. As for fuel lines for carburation how is aluminum or copper tubing. On return feed systems I see on the threads has one feed line to the bypass regulator and one return line, but all bypass regulators I have seen have in, out, and return so do you plug the out port or deadhead to the carb with the output.
 
 
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Well it seems that I fail on measuring cam to crank spacing. I assume that the cam gear should fit to the cam without needing to force it to line up so I will call cloyes and find out if I can just get a stock timing chain with the 5 under set I just bought and fix my error.
 
made a filling spacer for my airgap manifold. need to raise the carb 4" so my plans are to use a 2" 4 hole spacer and milling another out for a 2" divided spacer giving a larger plenum size. since I need the added height I felt making it a true dual plane would be better. what are your thoughts on this modification. it just slides in and out now but could be crimped in and a bit of rtf to seal it in although the milled slot holds it so it cant fall out.
 

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