I Am Dreaming Of Easy, Affordable Power

DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
Very soon (I can't wait, in fact) I hope to get my claws on a nearly complete center-bolt SBC 350 from a 2000 Van. It may or may not be a 4-bolt. I understand, that the engine was burning oil. Most likely, because of the thin rings, it may only need a ring job.

I want to keep those Vortec heads - apparently, doing mild machine work yourself, you can even increase the lift to 0.550. That's a no brainer if refreshing these heads.

OPTION I
Re-ring, machine heads and throw in a better cam. (New oil pump, new water pump... bearings).

OPTION II
Same as above but with a stroker crank and matching cam.

Will the stroker crank require new rods and pistons... or can I re-use my old ones????
Can these stroker cranks be bought internally balanced ?

MTIADC3o_O
 
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if the core engine block currently burns oil its almost a given youll need to have the bore opened to .010- .030 over standard and match the pistons and rings obviously
once you are forced to get the block machined and bored over std bore size and buy the rings pistons bearings gaskets etc, you might consider aftermarket connecting rods as the originals have been through a million plus stress cycles.
the factory connecting rods SUCK, especially after millions of stress cycles
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...market-4340-connecting-rods.13321/#post-72047
the SCAT cast steel crank and hyper eutectic piston package rotating assembly for what you intend to do is a good choice, Id try to get near 9.5:1-10:1 compression
if you just buy new bearings, gaskets , a new 350 crank, cast pistons and upgrade the rods ,
to build a 350, and get the bores straitened out at a minimal over bore diam. youll already be
close to the price of a 383 stroker, and a 383 due to its larger displacement and increased stroke has at least a 40 ft lb torque advantage over the whole rpm range
sca-1-40005bl.jpg


and the rods
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-25700716/make/chevrolet
sca-25700_w.jpg

or a complete rotating assembly are not all that much more /


and yeah as always there's a great deal of useful related info .
in the links and sub links:D:rolleyes:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-935050l/make/chevrolet

https://www.summitracing.com/popup/calcsandtools/stroker-combinations

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-91205/make/chevrolet

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/the-new-215cc-vortec-heads.266/#post-75012

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/page-2#post-61958

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/used-vortec-engine-deal.11053/#post-49125

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-vortec-heads-and-other-heads.401/#post-17237
 
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yes.... you have to change the rods and pistons. If you were to reuse the same piston and rods on a longer throw crank, the piston would be pushed out of the bore and crash into the head. Stock 350 crank has a 3.48 stroke while a 383 stroker crank is 3.75 stroke.
 
I would think you would have to go with a complete rotating assembly to have all matched components
 
do the rotating assembly a set of aluminum after market heads don't go too radical and have yourself a sweet running Vette
 
Someone needs a :mad: wedgie !!!

CE731107-B2C3-4BB2-BA27-6D8C1780464C.jpeg

EEE4E875-387E-4F51-A0E8-7A5BA4E52BBF.jpeg

Option 1 is to machine this crank down .010/010

Option 2 is a stroker. I’m trying to find a one piece seal crank kit on Summit. Does that exist ? It would need a weighted flywheel I suppose ?​
 
by the time a machine shop cuts and polishes the existing crank,
reconditions the rods, adds ARP rod bolts and sells you the pistons, bearings, rings etc.
that SCAT rotating assembly will be an amazing value/bargain.
be sure you calculate the compression and select the piston dish/dome etc.
after you decide on what cylinder heads youll use, once both are decided, you can select the matching cam specs
 
Well gents... you twisted my arm :D. It look like we may well be on our way to a 383...

The crank, in my humble opinion, is not salvageable.

1.jpg


How could anyone even drive like this ??? :eek: This would have driven me up the walls immediately !
2.jpg

The rod was battered to the point the cap needed to be pried off !!!!
3.jpg


Another interesting detail... Someone... if not the General, put a bearing in backwards and crushed the locating tab.
4.jpg

Look at the indentation on the rod.:eek:
5.jpg
 
Wow, that's amazing that someone could put that together and drive it that way. Did it have oil pressure ?

How far have you driven this Vette ?
 
Hmmmmm. Then again, I just realized that a good shop might be able to fix this.

I hate being so wishy washy but this is a big curve ball
 
Not
Wow, that's amazing that someone could put that together and drive it that way. Did it have oil pressure ?

How far have you driven this Vette ?

Agreed. How can someone drive with an issue like this ?!?!?!

It wasn’t in my corvette. It was a scrapped engine. Apparently it was scrapped because burning oil. It seems the MUST have had a super annoying knock as well.
 
Have you miked the cylinders to see what size ? It might already be .030 or .060 over.
 
most people building a 383 have the original and most likely well worn, 327-350 block with a nominal 4" bore,
to start with, the worn bore must be perfectly circular its full length so the worn block is bored to .030 over the stock original 4" bore ,
thats only taking .015 off each bore wall.
get out your feeler gauges and see how little metal thickness that .015 is
feelert.jpg


because the typical block is worn a bit too large to use the stock diam. bore size pistons,
that .015 is the minimum it takes in many cases to ensure the new useable bore.

displacement is calculated
bore x bore x stroke x number of cylinders x .7854= displacement

4.03 x 4.03 x 3.75 x 8 x .7854=382.67



http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-72061

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bits-of-383-info.38/page-2#post-61958

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...od-rod-length-too-stroke-info.510/#post-10311


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-calculators-and-basic-math.10705/#post-50173

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tweaking-a-350-383.13087/#post-68195

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...onnecting-rod-rod-length-too-stroke-info.510/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/measuring-rod-and-pin-heights.3760/#post-9968


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...yet-performance-application.15710/#post-94039


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-72126

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/stroker-tips-by-len-emanuelson.1249/

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-0503-chevy-383-engine/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/en...-build-a-383-small-block-engine-sledgehammer/

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-0706-small-block-chevy-stroker-kit/

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/building-the-little-383-small-block-that-could/

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0808-383-stroker-small-block-chevy/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...awhile-but-theres-good-tips.15295/#post-89128


 
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The rest seems to be related to the reliefs in pistons. That’s where things are getting confusing. What should I be looking for ?
I further narrowed the search by filtering on Hypereutectic Pistons, since I was pretty sure that's
the direction you would go. Use the left side to narrow your search even more.

https://www.summitracing.com/search...geSize=100&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

You need to figure out down to a couple of cams and what SCR/DCR you will get with the heads
you will be running. Then you can further filter on the piston relief volume to adjust your compression
ratio. You have two choices for a rod length of 5.7" or 6.0"

Is that what you were trying to ask ?
 
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