Id like your gentlemens input/thoughts here

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
my B.I.L called and said his 1974 vette would not start,
he's in GA and IM in texas so I can't just drop by and fix it,
I rapidly diagnosed over the phone, his initial issue, the car would not run,
down to the fact that he had zero ignition spark ,
and traced it to a defective distributor, not being there I suggested he replace it ,
as he was not able to tell me what component had failed internally,
and pictures , he sent to my phone showed it was rather badly rusted internally and the springs weights and condenser were badly rusted.
he just purchased a new distributor from summit racing, and once he installed it and the corvette starts right up now,
but I had him checking the voltage from the alternator and its fluctuating between 9 volts and 13.7 volts,
the problem here as I'm not sure what he's testing and when,
the coil voltage normally drops to about 9 volts,
while the starters spinning the engine over,
but he's stating its doing it before the engine spins
this may be a lack of communication, between us,
this might be the alternator , voltage regulator,

or a defective battery or several other potential issues, but it requires testing
obviously this is a serious electrical issue and not being hands on it's not something I can easily trace, so I welcome your thoughts ?
I'm thinking there's a loose electrical ground, a defective battery or the alternators not working correctly,
I'm suggesting he start checking several things, like a defective battery plate, or loose electrical ground or battery cable connection
obviously troubleshooting over the phone when your not sure if the guys meter is set correctly,
or what he's testing or where he's probing is more difficult.
obviously having a decent timing light and multi meter helps a great deal.
as always start by checking the battery voltage and connections,
and what the alternator voltage is at idle and once its at at least 1100 rpm.
ignition-system-diagram.jpg.webp

image_12687.jpg

image_12926.jpg


related links and threads (that contain a good deal of related info)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/battery-or-alternator.10003/#post-43220

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/is-my-alt-dead.6964/#post-22890

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=3222&p=8575&hilit=test+alternator#p8575

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-altenators-work.355/#post-492










 
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guide too re-installing the intake manifold /distributor

read these thread LINKS and watch this video link below first, because theres a ton of related info that can help, you , to prevent oil & coolant or vacuum leaks, and gasket damage, BE AWARE that if the intake manifold bolts used are too short the threads may strip, \if they are too long you...


watch the video on the sbc, its the same deal on the bbc, yeah Im sure you think its correct, but obviously somethings not indexed correctly
I wish I was local, and could drop by, but this is not nearly as difficult as it seems, and yeah almost all of us have had similar issues at one time or another
sum-g1059.jpg

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...rb9u9QiL1dHsIY1UPORtUAnIQnzksjyBoChD4QAvD_BwE

finding TOP DEAD CENTER

INSTRUCTIONS, on the procedure http://www.frontiernet.net/~ennis/tdc.html http://www.2quicknovas.com/2qntdc.html http://www.corvette-restoration.com/res ... ing101.pdf viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1015 http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-top-dead-center.967/...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
related threads

timing tabs and indicators

these things are a deceptively simply but necessary component on your engine, they range from the cheap stamped steel, and non adjustable versions to the much nicer adjustable versions, ONE basic thing youll need to know is where TDC, 90,180,270 degrees are located if and when you get involved...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

verifying your real advance curve

you need to start by verifying TDC on the timing tab and damper actually show TRUE TDC. IF that base line (TDC on CRANK AND TIMING TAB) is not correct, everything done after that is based on that TDC, will be wrong...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
 
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If he doesn't find something obviously wrong like a loose connection, then I would have him take it to the local auto supply and have them test the battery and charging system. They can do this without removing any components.

He would need to make sure the battery is fully charged before he goes, if the battery is not close to fully charged they cannot test until it is charged. Does he have a battery charger? They may or may not have a battery booster, so just be aware that if he is having trouble turning the motor over he might have to wait while they charge the battery before he can return home. When I worked at "Advanced Auto" we had to shut the engine off at some point during the testing.
 
Ill ask him to charge the battery and re-test, thanks for the input

he states the voltage at the positive side of the coil is 12 volts but drops to 7-9 volts,
when he starts to turn the key, even before the starter engages...
the car will start and it runs ,
and he has had the battery load tested at a local auto parts store, it passes ..
any ideas as to the cause of the voltage drop, gentlemen?
fuses? starter ? damn I wish I could see what he is doing,

and what he's testing, where the test leads are,
what the multi meters set up to measure and when he's testing it!


https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ignition-coil-performance-explained/

Ignition Coil Basics - Hagerty Media




What is the expected voltage of a coil to a distributor supposed to be?

According to, https://www.carparts.com/classroom/ignition.htm

https://www.carparts.com/blog/a-short-course-on-ignition-systems/

I suggested several times he find and buy a factory shop manual
or at least something like this

 
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most people appreciate feed back or some info on what was found

use of a $4-$7 multi -meter , that's at least 12 years old,
sure made things a bit more difficult
as was not having an assortment of test leads

clip on meter test leads
shopping

63759_W3.jpg

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-fun...7wHSU1a7NskI81PrVwSxNH9LNi5eWs64aAqhVEALw_wcB

but the problems found and corrected so far on his 1974 corvette,
engine was having issues due to a

totally internally rusted solid distributor ( its now replaced)
a defective battery cable (replaced)
having the ignition timing set at 23 degrees advanced (RE -SET TO FACTORY 8 degrees)
two fuses that were blown(replaced)
a corroded fuse box connection (polished clean, hopefully ok)
bad connection on alternator (o-ring connector replaced on feed wire to battery)
 
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yeah, I hope its now running correctly, its rather difficult to judge, not being on site!
and having to rely on second hand info.
 
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