Let’s Tune This Engine

we ALL make mistakes and have lapse's in judgement,
its part of the hobby/learning process and how we all gain experience
Hmmm. It just occurred to me… what if I simply got the valve lash wrong on that valve ?

Tomorrow the plan should then be reset the valve lash for that rocker before firing it up…. then see if I get the clacking noise.

Or maybe run for a few seconds to determine which rocker is clacking and then reset static.

Resetting while running seems like a great way to wipe a lobe if the lifter is defective.

Right ?
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So here we have an update on another way.

I do think this is fixed and the engine is operating normally. Don’t get me wrong, it still sounds like a sewing machine. But I do believe that is the nature of this valve train and it’s something I’ll just need to get used to.
Following day, cold start: success ! The clacking is gone.

I took the opportunity to go over the car and check in, under and around it. It definitely needs a good cleaning.

The rear seemed to me a bit low, so I adjusted it up.

Hand brake cable tightened as well.

I think my next project (other than cleaning) will be digging into the steering column and adjusting the cold start.

My turning signals do not self cancel. The horn (relay disconnected) is stuck on and the hazard light switch is stuck. Another weird thing I experienced was on a hard brake, the hazard lights flashed momentarily. Hmmm. Maybe next weekend I’ll dig into it.
Glad you found your ticking noise!

Don't you have a car wash near by that you can use to clean the engine bay with ? It's just nice sometimes to take care of those little annoyances.
as I stated before,
" back off each rocker nut until it clicks
then set the rocker pre-load, hot /running and just very slowly turn the rocker nut, 1/2 turn in
,max ,past where it just stops clicking as you tighten the lash out of the hydraulic lifter,
just back off the rocker until it clicks at idle then slowly tighten until the click stops then add a 1/2 turn max, not all that high tech, but its worked flawlessly for decades
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I watched the your video Dorian. You are not listening!
4 minutes in and you can plainly see that only one rocker (#7 INT) has oil flowing.
That one is good - the other 7 are bad!
8 minutes in and all but one (#7 IN) has oil flowing over the roller tip at idle.
9 minutes in and half of the rockers do not have oil again.
You MUST set these using the hot running click method that Grumpy has described above.
This is what happens in only 20 minutes with the problem you have here:

The video is a bit deceiving in terms of time passed. I’ve always known oil to take a bit of time to come out of the rockers; this seems no different.

The issue I have setting lash hit is I don’t hear very well and easily get confused by what I’m hearing.

Nonetheless, I’ll give it another go, just to make sure :like:
The only time oil should take time to flow to the rockers is the first time when an engine is assembled and the galleries are empty. That is why you pre-lube the engine before the first fire up.

Use a length of windshield washer size hose to help hear for the tick. You stick one end in your ear and probe around with the other. You will be amazed how well this works.

All that ticking that you are hearing is from the lack of oil. You have the rockers set too tight, rendering the pumping mechanisms inside the lifters inoperable. Once you loosen the polylock to hear the tick, just tighten it to make the tick go away. Move to the next one and do the same. Complete one cylinder head, stop engine, and then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn additional and lock them. Repeat for the other side.
You can do this!