lets compare two mid rpm TPI cams

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
A choice was made between two similar hydraulic roller cams for a mild TPI combo

the crower cam I suggested


http://www.lunaticams.com/Product.aspx?id=1835&gid=254

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/

the lunati that was purchased / bought

this will be very informative, because it points out the difference between listed and true lift and duration, look at the duration and lift figures, then at the .050 timing
look both over carefully and compare


most guys use the terms LSA and LCA almost interchangeably WHICH THEY ARE NOT in all cases!

LCA =(LOBE CENTER ANGLES)remember lobe center angles can be changed thru indexing the cam when degreeing it in, LSA (LOBE SEPERATION ANGLE) is ground into the cam during its manufacturing process.

most guys looking at the stated info,
and not the actual timing figures
will think the
LUNATI with its Duration @ .050
Intake:206/Exhaust:215
is slightly wilder than

the CROWER
with its Duration at .050" of
Intake: 204 Exhaust: 213
THATS NOT TRUE
LOOK CLOSELY

LUNATI INTAKE Opens: -5.0 ATDC
Closes: 31.0 ABDC
EXHAUST Opens: 43.5.0 BBDC
Closes: -8.5.0 BTDC
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .469/.489



CROWER INTAKE Opens: -8.0 ATDC
Closes: 32.0 ABDC
EXHAUST Opens: 45.0 BBDC
Closes: -12.0 BTDC
Lift: .484 Lift: .505


the fact is the crower design is just a bit more aggressive

NEITHER cam is a max effort design. both are designed for a boost over stock but they will retain decent street and traffic manors in basically stock or mildly modified engines, BOTH cams will work fine, in most TPI engine combos if clearances are carefully checked and maintained, and Ill be the first guy to suggest that on a stock set of heads the lunati with its lower lift is the safer choice, but on decent aftermarket heads with no clearance issues the crower design is almost sure to produce a better power curve.

Ive used several very similar cams over the years and every last one in that duration range ran better , in a TPI equipped engine with its restrictive intake, and head flow rates if the cam was retarded a few degrees (INSTALLED SPLIT OVERLAP)vs installed advanced 4 degrees (DOT-TO-DOT)the main reason seems to be that a TPI needs all the upper rpm savaging it can get to help fill the cylinders and with the limited duration the delayed intake valve closing tends to help just a bit to extend the rpm band, higher.
as IM sure your aware
the formula for hp is tq x rpm/5252

lets say the cam change moves the tq peak 150 rpm higher (WHICH IT TENDS TO)
now lets assume the torque peaks at only the same point and power peaks at

http://www.stingray.nu/tips/tech85.htm

165 NET HP @ 5200 the stock engine was supposed to make at 200rpm, higher, but it now jumps just a bit to 5350rpm,thats about 5-6 hp advantage, but in reality youll see closer to 40-60 more hp more due too both the more aggressive cam timing and the slightly retarded timing also, install it advanced and youll still get a big boost but your leaving 3-6 hp on the table in most cases
 

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one factor not really mentioned is that a higher than stock stall speed converter is going to allow a much wider selection of useable cam timing,and the stock TPI intakes a HUGE restriction, and new valve springs and some machine work will also do wonders for your ability to use a slightly larger than stock cam timing top your full advantage.
ONCE youve made certain the engines clearances are not restricting your cam selection, you can concentrate on the engines potential needs, and the effect of displacement, head flow and intended rpm and power band.
heres a few threads to read

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=823

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=858

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=796

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=90

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=965

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=528

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=155

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1049

with a stock valve train youll probably be limited to about a 215- 220 @ .050 lift intake duration
swap in a 3000rpm-3200rpm stall converter and you can go to a 230-240@ .050 lift intake duration and significantly boost the potential horsepower PROVIDED the necessary matched components like rear gear ratio, head flow, compression, injector size , carb size intakes and headers ETC, are also matched to the combo.


http://airflowresearch.com/articles/art ... /A9-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article031/A-P1.htm

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article045/A-P1.htm

of course you'll want to match the heads you select,
to the intended rpm/power range and application and match the cam timing, compression ratio, and drive train gearing, etc.
so lets discus the current car/truck weight, transmission, tire size, rear gear ratio and what your intended goals and budget limitations are, as a start point.
the last thing you'll want to do is select parts that may cripple or restrict the engine performance by mis-matching components or selecting parts on price alone, we all work on limited budgets,
but its will pay big dividends in power produced too carefully select matched components
and generally the biggest mistake is mis-matching heads, intake and cam combos or scrimping on the quality of the components used,
a couple extra hours or even days spent in detailed of research may prove critical, in fact anything less than buying and reading through several books and reading a couple dozen links and all the sub-links is very likely to leave you missing valuable and critical info youll need later, and thats usually going to cost you wasted time and cash.
the big mistake's most people make is in not selecting the correct cam, to match the displacement and compression and drive train gearing or selecting a restrictive cylinder head or intake that does not match the intended power range

yes it looks over whelming but youll be amazed at the detailed info and the mistakes you can avoid by reading carefully
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sellecting-cylinder-heads.796/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/semi-fool-proof-cam-sellection.82/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/first-hotrod-build.12902/#post-67005

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-383-sbc-combo-planing.12168/#post-58778

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bare-minimum-tools.11026/#post-48785

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-to-look-for-in-a-good-engine-combo.9930/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-383-build.12786/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-383-build.10991/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/impersonator.9600/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-angles-and-air-flow.8460/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tbucket-engine-project-dart-shp.3814/
 
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