LT1 and a T56 in a 55 Chevy

I know if it was me and I had my frame off and was at the same stage as you. I would be welding up a 4 link and a drive shaft hoop. There is allot of opportunity here depending on what budget and skill level allows at this point. Along with overall goals I have to remember not everyone thinks like me. I am how I would say borderline Brian mixxed with Phil. lol
 
thank you for posting the clear detailed pictures of that older cars restoration process, and the rebuilding of the suspension, etc., Im sure it helps members realize that even older cars from the 50s-90s with a bit of surface rust or well worn components can be rebuilt and parts replaced, Ive seen lots of the younger guys get really discouraged when they see cars in even better condition, who assume the cars they bought are well past the point it can be saved.
if you have a decent welder , a couple die grinders, and power sanders, a compressor, maybe a sheet steel nibbler and some pop-rivets and a plazma cutter,and some fabrication skills theres not much in a car or truck that can't be fixed or replaced, add some body and paint and fiberglass working, skills and the results can be amazing.
 
THIS MAY ALMOST LOOK LIKE A EASTWOOD COMMERCIAL, but keep in mind theres other similar tools from MILLER ,LINCOLN ETC.
and NO! YOU DON,T NEED ALL THE TOOLS OR THE BEST OUT THERE!
what you NEED is the experience and instruction from a more experienced guy whos willing to teach you the skills and a firm understanding of how the tools are used, duty cycles and the capability's and limitation's and proper use of the tools, BEFORE YOU PURCHASE WHAT YOU NEED IN YOUR SHOP

nibbler shears
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9udH1CXxpc
http://www.eastwood.com/electric-metal- ... hears.html
p24807.jpg


http://www.zoro.com/i/G3239555/?utm_sou ... aQodEKQAgA
5MRY1_AS01.JPG


plazma cutter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0OLn6ccUB4A
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-plasma ... aQodAQMABw


p42432.jpg

tig welder
http://www.eastwood.com/tig-welders-eas ... aQodLkAAAg

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-tig200-versa ... ?reltype=3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zd-u-nTL0yM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AtAEPuPbWKM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbQTyRT86Gg

http://www.welders-direct.com/mm5/merch ... ry_Code=TW

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIyu-63ruMU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWZQeSWoNQ8
 
Willy can't afford to Drag Race Full Bore.
He is pretty content with 12's 1/4 mile for now.
The Olds 425 Supercharged is my intrest is his toys.
GASSER.
To get it moving fast 4.88-5.38 Gears needed.
I would use a Muncie M22 Rockcrusher.
He don't want Turbo 400.
 
1957 Pontiac Olds 9.3 rear or Dana 60 be best.
Launch at 5,000 dumping the clutch.
Old school Ladder bars will work still.
 
I'm really a road runner at heart, unfortunately we do not have any road racing venues anywhere in Hawaii.
There are two car racing events on Maui, used to be some good ones on Oahu, but the property owner over there decided developing the property into town houses and condos was more valuable than car or cart or motorcycle racing was.

On Maui we have a private club operated NHRA certified 1/4 mile track. We've run as fast at 220 mph here, and that driver says "no more", as our runout room is a little limited for those kind of speeds. Up to 180 seems to be good though, and most of our fastest cars fall into that bracket.

There's also a 1/8 mile mud "roundy-round", mostly dominated by front wheel drive imports. It's really a "destruction derby" kind of event, but it is fun and I've thought about fixing up an old import and entering it, but those guys take a beating, not too sure this old body is up to that any more....

My '58 502 daily driver truck is a solid mid twelves, and I just kinda got bored with driving that bracket, so built the '55 gasser to run in the 10's. The chassis is certified to way, way faster than I'd ever want to go, and I did once during test and tune run a 11.17, so am almost there. Better tires and some more tuning, probably more rear gear. But I was having a heck of a time being real consistent with a line lock, foot clutching a stick shift, and hitting my gears exactly the same each time. My competition in the eleven and ten second brackets are all running powerglides and computer controls, the good drivers are hitting it so close, the win/lose differential if often in the thousandths of a second! Give me some low 11 second gear slammer cars with no computers and let's go have some fun, but there's just nobody over here running stuff like that any more!

And I've had my run-ins with the track manager and his folks, long story, not going there, but the result is I have mostly lost interest down there and just don't want to go anymore, other than to help out some of my buddies....

I have a '70 Buick Skylark I put a full cage in, did a back half with a parallel four link, was going to race it, with the Buick 455 and the TH400, both built, of course! That was about when I ran across the '55 four door, and the poor ol' Skylark got sidelined while I built the gasser. Still have it though....
70buick%20a.jpg

70buick%20b.jpg

70buick%20k.jpg

more pix
And more pix

Getting back to the road running, I do know the roads over here pretty well, and there are some narrow twisty ones where, if I an careful, I can get away with some "hot rodding", and I love it! In an old jazzed up hot rod, I like a solid sway bar up front, really good shocks, dropped suspension without compromising the steering/suspension geometry in any way, and improving it wherever I can, like adding more caster and using dropped spindles to get down while keeping the geometry correct.

In back I've had my best success with a rear axle that can articulate and keep both tires firmly planted on the pavement! Coil overs and a triangulated four link works real well, but leaf springs, deleafed down to one or two, with coil-overs, caltraks, and a good panhard bar have also worked real well for me in the past. No sway bar, and no parallel four links, they work against planting both tires down firmly on the pavement. And of course a really good posi. I've kinda drifted to the Detroit Lockers, just cause I can't break 'em, but they certainly have their own peculiarities !! For open road fast work, I like the positraction better.

While the HT frame is out, I'll weld in a rear shock mount bar, deleaf the springs probably down to 2, install the best QA-1's I can afford, install the caltraks I have on the shelf, and put the longest panhard bar I can fit, parallel to the ground. Only going for 2-3" lower than stock. That lowering block in back is coming out. And the slappers. I had that car on the street in '01 with a wheezy, leaky 350/350 combo, did the minitub back then with the springs relocated as you see now.

I once did a rear suspension for a buddy, wish I could find the pix, where we kept the leaf springs under a severely slammed 55 Ford pickup. Did a frame clip up front to get that end low, and hung the rear axle above the springs with heavy duty shackles, put in ladder bars and a long panhard bar (keeps the arc of movement pretty flat), and rigged a horizontal shock setup not too unlike the ones in the Harley softtails. I think they copied us !!! Had to do a lot of work on the frame to give the axle room to move. It handled quite well in the twisties.

I'm convinced the handling of this car when it's done will be right up there with some of the exotic stuff !
Guess we'll see....
Aloha,
Willy
 
I have said it before in the past.
The Best race cars are Devoid of all creature comforts and electronics.
A Vertex Magneto is all you need.
Wind the Engine out.
Power shift 1-2 & 2-3 & 3-4 foot on the floor gas.
Shifting at 7,000 + Rpm.
No longer racing slow cars.
Real Factory race cars that can run 10.5 on stock radial tires with a skilled driver.
 
2Loose said:
I'm really a road runner at heart, unfortunately we do not have any road racing venues anywhere in Hawaii.
There are two car racing events on Maui, used to be some good ones on Oahu, but the property owner over there decided developing the property into town houses and condos was more valuable than car or cart or motorcycle racing was.

On Maui we have a private club operated NHRA certified 1/4 mile track. We've run as fast at 220 mph here, and that driver says "no more", as our runout room is a little limited for those kind of speeds. Up to 180 seems to be good though, and most of our fastest cars fall into that bracket.

There's also a 1/8 mile mud "roundy-round", mostly dominated by front wheel drive imports. It's really a "destruction derby" kind of event, but it is fun and I've thought about fixing up an old import and entering it, but those guys take a beating, not too sure this old body is up to that any more....

My '58 502 daily driver truck is a solid mid twelves, and I just kinda got bored with driving that bracket, so built the '55 gasser to run in the 10's. The chassis is certified to way, way faster than I'd ever want to go, and I did once during test and tune run a 11.17, so am almost there. Better tires and some more tuning, probably more rear gear. But I was having a heck of a time being real consistent with a line lock, foot clutching a stick shift, and hitting my gears exactly the same each time. My competition in the eleven and ten second brackets are all running powerglides and computer controls, the good drivers are hitting it so close, the win/lose differential if often in the thousandths of a second! Give me some low 11 second gear slammer cars with no computers and let's go have some fun, but there's just nobody over here running stuff like that any more!

And I've had my run-ins with the track manager and his folks, long story, not going there, but the result is I have mostly lost interest down there and just don't want to go anymore, other than to help out some of my buddies....

I have a '70 Buick Skylark I put a full cage in, did a back half with a parallel four link, was going to race it, with the Buick 455 and the TH400, both built, of course! That was about when I ran across the '55 four door, and the poor ol' Skylark got sidelined while I built the gasser. Still have it though....
70buick%20a.jpg

70buick%20b.jpg

70buick%20k.jpg

more pix
And more pix

Getting back to the road running, I do know the roads over here pretty well, and there are some narrow twisty ones where, if I an careful, I can get away with some "hot rodding", and I love it! In an old jazzed up hot rod, I like a solid sway bar up front, really good shocks, dropped suspension without compromising the steering/suspension geometry in any way, and improving it wherever I can, like adding more caster and using dropped spindles to get down while keeping the geometry correct.

In back I've had my best success with a rear axle that can articulate and keep both tires firmly planted on the pavement! Coil overs and a triangulated four link works real well, but leaf springs, deleafed down to one or two, with coil-overs, caltraks, and a good panhard bar have also worked real well for me in the past. No sway bar, and no parallel four links, they work against planting both tires down firmly on the pavement. And of course a really good posi. I've kinda drifted to the Detroit Lockers, just cause I can't break 'em, but they certainly have their own peculiarities !! For open road fast work, I like the positraction better.

While the HT frame is out, I'll weld in a rear shock mount bar, deleaf the springs probably down to 2, install the best QA-1's I can afford, install the caltraks I have on the shelf, and put the longest panhard bar I can fit, parallel to the ground. Only going for 2-3" lower than stock. That lowering block in back is coming out. And the slappers. I had that car on the street in '01 with a wheezy, leaky 350/350 combo, did the minitub back then with the springs relocated as you see now.

I once did a rear suspension for a buddy, wish I could find the pix, where we kept the leaf springs under a severely slammed 55 Ford pickup. Did a frame clip up front to get that end low, and hung the rear axle above the springs with heavy duty shackles, put in ladder bars and a long panhard bar (keeps the arc of movement pretty flat), and rigged a horizontal shock setup not too unlike the ones in the Harley softtails. I think they copied us !!! Had to do a lot of work on the frame to give the axle room to move. It handled quite well in the twisties.

I'm convinced the handling of this car when it's done will be right up there with some of the exotic stuff !
Guess we'll see....
Aloha,
Willy
Love your thinking and great experience behind it.
 
anything with torq thrusts that narrow up front makes me chub... thats a bad ass buick right there. shame you dont have more outlets for your passion willy. you have alot of cool toys all tucked away on that island
 
Become the Race Track Manager Willy.
All political BS Over then.
 
Yeah, that might work, bring in my own gang to run the track....
Oh Well....

Onward:
Finally got the frame trimmed, welded, ground down and scrubbed to my satisfaction, time for the Ospho rust treatment....
55HTframeOff44sMar2015.JPG


Let the Ospho rust treatment (phosphoric acid) dry for two days,
then did a good "rub down" with a dry piece of old bed sheet (no cotton pieces stuck on the frame that way)...
55HTframeOff45sMar2015.JPG


Then brush painted it with Rustoleum Black Hammertone....
55HTframeOff47sMar2015.JPG

55HTframeOff48sMar2015.JPG

I really like this finish. I had previously prepped and painted the engine bay
while the frame was still under the body and I was setting up the motor mounts and suspension....


More later....
Willy
 
Talking to the tech at Summit Racing, I found out that there are two kinds of QA-1 coil-over shocks, one is called the Proma Star, the other is called the Ultra Ride. The tech said the difference is in the internal valving, the Proma Star is more for racing, the Ultra Ride is more for the street. I'm undecided on which one to order....

And taking measurements on the rear frame and the axle, looks like I could fit either the 17" or the 14" QA-1 in there, so am gonna have to go sit there with some Dire Straights blasting, and a coupla beers, and think this one out a bit....
Willy



Several beers later....

went ahead and ordered the 14" US402 so I can proceed with my rear end setup....
got the roller bearing thingie too that is under the springs...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-us402
 
Just ran out of time to post all the pix I have here, but have been setting up the frame to fabricate the mounts for the rear 14" QA1's, and have lots of pix on my web page. Here's one showing how I compressed the rear leaf springs (deleafed down to two springs) down to the point where I want the car to ride when it's all back together, now I will weld up mounts for 14" long QA1's set at 13" long, leaving me with about 2.8" of total compression available out of a total of about 3.8":
55HTframeOff56sMar2015.JPG


Set the frame at 5" clearance at the front cross member:
55HTframeOff55sMar2015.JPG


Pulled the back down until the side rails at the lowest in front were at 5-1/2" off the ground, and at the rear, just in front of the spring mounts, it's 7-3/4" off the ground. A 2-1/4" rake, looks good to me:
55HTframeOff68sMar2015.JPG


At this ride height, with two leafs removed on each side in the rear, the remaining two take on a reverse curve, not sure what this means in terms of long term driving and handling, but I think it will be ok:
55HTframeOff62sMar2015.JPG


All those pix on my web page can be posted on this thread using the function, so am inviting comments from anyone on any of those pix on my web page, and what I am doing with this car.

LINK to my web page....

Aloha,
Willy
 
Still working on the suspension.


A couple of the pix above show the leaf springs set up with two leaves.
I pulled those springs out to prep them for the CalTracs, split them apart and found some pretty bad corrosion on the main leaves:
55HTsprings56sAprr2015.JPG


I don't trust them so I got a pair of new spring packs and started working on those....
The new ones just came yesterday, so got to work on them right away....
Same length as my original springs, and a five pack like the original ones....
These are supposed to be 2" lowered, one immediate difference, is the rear spring eye
on the springs is rolled up instead of down like the originals....
55HTsprings50sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings53sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings51sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings52sAprr2015.JPG


The spring alignment guides are easy to get off, as they are mild steel....
55HTsprings54sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings55sAprr2015.JPG


A couple of chisels and they spread apart easily, and can be hammered back into shape easily...
55HTsprings57sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings58sAprr2015.JPG


Not sure yet if I'll use two leaves or only one, will do the initial setup with just the main leaf, can always
add one more later, and might just be the short one as the second leaf....
55HTsprings59sAprr2015.JPG


The CalTracs go on the front, and there were these heavy duty poly bushings in the front,
and for some reason there were no bushings in the rear, so pressed out the front bushings,
and pressed them back in the rear....
55HTsprings60sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings61sAprr2015.JPG


The CalTracs have a steel bushing that goes in the spring eye in the front, so had to press those in ....
55HTsprings62sAprr2015.JPG


This steel piece fits the rotating piece of the CalTracs, and fits inside the steel bushing I pressed into the front spring eye....
55HTsprings63sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings64sAprr2015.JPG


Fitted onto the front of the spring....
55HTsprings65sAprr2015.JPG


55HTsprings66sAprr2015.JPG


Ran into a small problem on the second CalTrac, the smaller steel piece fits too tight into the steel bushing I pressed
into the front eye of the spring, will have to loosen that up a bit, plus where this all mounts under the frame,
needs some modification before it will fit properly.

More later....
Willy
 
Got both pivot pieces on the CalTracs moving smoothly and put them on with the new single leaf springs:
55HTsprings67sAprr2015.JPG


The CalTracs mounts at the axle hit the brake backing plates, will have to grind some clearances into the CalTracks mounts:
55HTsprings68sAprr2015.JPG


Had to cut out the front piece of the steel box the front of the springs mount into to allow the front CalTracs pieces to rotate properly:
55HTsprings70sAprr2015.JPG


This is the rear ride height I'm looking at. The frame is 8" high at the front leaf spring mount:
55HTsprings71sAprr2015.JPG


Might add this small spring upside down to act like an overload spring on severe deflection of the springs:
55HTsprings72sAprr2015.JPG


Only 3-1/2" to the bottom of the CalTracs rotation pieces, not good....
55HTsprings74sAprr2015.JPG


So I think I will move the CalTracs up to the higher hole on the rotation piece and trim off the unneccessary metal, that gives me 5" clearance, I'm a lot happier with that. This will also give me a faster action on the CalTracs, but I don't think that will be a problem:
55HTsprings75sAprr2015.JPG


Now I can setup my QA1's, they are 14" units, with about 3.8" total compression. So if I set them at 13" for this ride height, I'll have about 2.8" compression available, with 1" extension on hard bumps....
55HTsprings76sAprr2015.JPG


I won't be able to determine which coil springs I want to put on the QA1's until the car is back together and I can get the final weight on that rear axle. This ride height is with 100# sitting on the frame, I need to find out the total un-sprung weight back there also. But I'm guessing about 200 to 250# per inch would be about right for those QA1's.

More later,
Willy

link to my 55 HT pages
 
41.jpg


I've just learned that Calverts disagrees with my mode of installation of my CalTracs....

My reasoning was that with slappers the front of the spring pulls up, causing the slapper to connect with the front of the spring and stop it from moving.

That same movement in the spring will push the connecting rod forward, rotating the front piece forward and connecting with the frame or a large bolt that I was planning on putting there in that space, weld a large nut on with a hole into the frame to make it adjustable.

From a mechanics of linkages standpoint it should work, just thinking about the Calverts method, I can see that turning it around to the rear for the contact bar, the contact bar pulls down on the front of the spring, locking the slight spring deformation in place, and pulling the frame in front of the spring mount down via the spring mount.

My setup will work, the difference is that the Calverts method contact bar pushes down on the spring, somewhat counteracting the springs tendency to "S" curve, and it pulls down on the frame via the spring, helping to plant the car. My method would also stop the springs from "S" curving, but would tend to give lift to the frame in front of the axle. Both would work, it would be interesting to find out if Calverts ever did any testing both ways to see which is best. Since I'm going to run basically a single leaf with coil-overs, that leaf spring is pretty dang flexible, wonder how much deformity downward that contact bar would put on my single leaf springs? As opposed to contacting and lifting the frame? Bouncing the rear of the frame up and down, and watching the action of the spring and CalTracs, they perform a lot like a mini four link setup. I suspect that with the current setup, dialed up to a solid contact before launch, it would act like a four link. From an engineering standpoint it's a very interesting question.
Hmmmmmm......
(Deep In Thought while Dire Straights rocks on....)
(With a good single malt in hand....)
Willy

Laters....
I'm forging ahead with my method, heck, they don't call me too loose for nothing....
AND, I just might make it work just fine...
 
Was starting to see that too many problems could develop with the single leaf setup, so I added two more
springs on each side, and my modified CalTracs setup using the frame as the lift point, while from an
engineering standpoint I know it will work, there were possible problems with that approach that I didn't want to deal with. So I turned the rotation pieces around as Calverts intended....
55HTframe011s_Apr2015.JPG

55HTframe009s_Apr2015.JPG


And added the 2-1/2" lowering blocks...
55HTframe005s_Apr2015.JPG


This caused the bottom plate under the springs to hit the rim of the brake drum, so had to trim that a bit....
55HTframe007s_Apr2015.JPG

55HTframe006s_Apr2015.JPG


Checking out different shock mounting locations for the QA1's, this is the location I used when I originally
set up the narrowed 9" rear back quite a few years ago...
55HTframe008s_Apr2015.JPG

I think it will work, but also looking at coming off the rear side of the suspension somewhere....

More Later,
Aloha,
Willy
 
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