One of the reasons I removed the balancer from the hub for this assembly attempt, was so I could heat the hub if it got stuck during the install process. But I didn't need to do that. I don't like to heat them usually in order to get an install, as that makes the future removal process even more difficult.
A buddy with a lot of machine shop experience convinced me we could do it manually right here in my shop with abrasive paper, so we started working on it with the #100 grit paper. The hub is black anodized, inside and out, and that anodizing was the first to come off, then we were working on shiny metal. It took awhile, working our way around the inside of the hub to try to keep it as even as we could, and working the paper both in an "in and out" motion for awhile, then a circular motion around the inside. Taking measurements as we went.
I have an aftermarket stroker crank in this LT1, with a 0.030" cylinder bore the displacement is 396 ci. My read on my crank snout OD is 1.2460", and the interference fit spec. is 0.009" to 0.0012". The crank snout is back inside the timing chain cover, so a bit difficult to get at it to try to take a little bit off the OD. My read on the hub ID was 1.2440", so I decided to try to take out 0.0010", getting the hub ID opened up to 1.2250" for a 0.0010" interference fit.
The final measurements after polishing with the #600 paper showed that we had taken out between 0.0008" and 0.0010" depending on where we measured. So we decided to give it a shot and it went right on, with a normal amount of effort.
ATI also recommends installing a new OEM center bolt in the crank and torquing it to spec. So I'm now in the hunt for a new center bolt.
Aloha,
Willy
PS: A supply of Negra Modelo in the shop frig helped also....
Well, it was a warm day....