I've got reloading manuals that date back to the late 1960s, all the way up to the newer ones,
the older ones have far less detailed info and they may have older cartridges and powders listed new manuals don't
,but there's a bunch of newer cartridges not listed in older manuals,
and there's a bunch of new powders available and older discontinued powders in the older manuals.
its always a good idea to cross check several manuals load data, they should all be fairly close..
within a grain or so on the max loads, if ones not it may be a miss-print
and yes rare but I've seen several mis-prints that might have caused serious issues in older manuals
some of the listed loads , in older manuals,
and velocities pressures listed far exceed what's considered safe currently,
so purchase of a newer manual every few years is advisable.
newer reloaders just tend to look up the fastest combo available that's listed thinking they can start with that load... that's frequently a big mistake and can result in dangerous pressures.(you really do need to start out with the listed "STARTING LOADS" and work up as all firearms differ slightly in clearances and condition and tolerances).
when you start to reload, do yourself a HUGE favor,
and purchase and READ THROUGH at least 4-5 reloading manuals,
and ALWAYS cross check load data
I know WHEN I WAS YOUNGER I thought that all the loads listed were safe and occasionally Id load up something using a load a couple grains lower than the max listed loads assuming it was bound to be safe, only to get excessive pressure signs on occasion,
I've noticed that trend of the loading manuals slowly decreasing the max loads listed over the last 20 plus years, and IM sure its due to better measurements of true pressure the loads produce and CORPORATE LAWYERS, getting to stick a bit more caution into the provided loads that get listed ,keep in mind in the past if the rifle didn't blow up and the brass extracted easily it might have been listed as a safe load, today they can actually measure chamber pressures.
but Id point out that on the plus side the powders are getting better and there's no effective difference in the effect on game if that 250 grain bullet leaves the muzzle at 2800fps or 2900fps
Id point out that you really don't need the highest available high velocity loads in any rifle or pistol, a projectile that's moving 100-150 fps slower generally has the same lethal effect, its shot placement and a knowledge of the games anatomy and vital organ placement that's always been the key to rapid lethality, heavier projectiles generally penetrate deeper and more consistently
example
I've used a 340 wby MARK-V bolt action with a 250 grain bullet at 2700-2750 fps
and a browning BLR lever action,
in caliber 358 win that pushes a 250 grain bullet at 2300 fps, both I've used on elk,
hit an elk in the similar area and both are rapidly lethal
yes the 340 has a noticeably greater effect on impact, and less drop at longer ranges,
but no elk shrugs off a well placed hit in the vitals from either rifle.
each as advantages, in the thick aspen/conifer and steep canyons the shorter and handy lever action is ideal,
if your watching semi open rolling aspen patches where you might get a 400 yard shot,
the Weatherby MARK-V bolt action and a good bi-pod are very effective/ lethal and accurate tools,
that make precise hits much easier building confidence in a well practiced hunter.
ALWAYS ,ALWAYS CROSS CHECK,
all loads you see on line or in load manuals with at least three ,
and 4-5 different powder and bullet manufacturers manuals,
this practice of cross checking and working with test loads is much preferred,
you will occasionally see typos and mis-prints in a totally different source, hand-load manuals,
and if the loads listed on line , or in various sources don't come very close too agreement, with the listed manual load,
ranges in brand and powder charge, there's something wrong.
sure a grain or two may or may not be significant and you'll need to work up to max loads slowly,
but if you see a load in one manual 5% or greater,
than the max load in a separate source be very cautious
I've occasionally seen really erroneous load data posted , and if I was not in the habit of checking against a minimum of three manuals I might have been in serious trouble, but always remember to start low and work up to max loads as on some rifles/hand guns even the manuals are excessive
https://shootersworldpowder.com/wp-content/uploads/shooters-world-manual.pdf
the older ones have far less detailed info and they may have older cartridges and powders listed new manuals don't
,but there's a bunch of newer cartridges not listed in older manuals,
and there's a bunch of new powders available and older discontinued powders in the older manuals.
its always a good idea to cross check several manuals load data, they should all be fairly close..
within a grain or so on the max loads, if ones not it may be a miss-print
and yes rare but I've seen several mis-prints that might have caused serious issues in older manuals
some of the listed loads , in older manuals,
and velocities pressures listed far exceed what's considered safe currently,
so purchase of a newer manual every few years is advisable.newer reloaders just tend to look up the fastest combo available that's listed thinking they can start with that load... that's frequently a big mistake and can result in dangerous pressures.(you really do need to start out with the listed "STARTING LOADS" and work up as all firearms differ slightly in clearances and condition and tolerances).
when you start to reload, do yourself a HUGE favor,
and purchase and READ THROUGH at least 4-5 reloading manuals,
and ALWAYS cross check load data
I know WHEN I WAS YOUNGER I thought that all the loads listed were safe and occasionally Id load up something using a load a couple grains lower than the max listed loads assuming it was bound to be safe, only to get excessive pressure signs on occasion,
I've noticed that trend of the loading manuals slowly decreasing the max loads listed over the last 20 plus years, and IM sure its due to better measurements of true pressure the loads produce and CORPORATE LAWYERS, getting to stick a bit more caution into the provided loads that get listed ,keep in mind in the past if the rifle didn't blow up and the brass extracted easily it might have been listed as a safe load, today they can actually measure chamber pressures.
but Id point out that on the plus side the powders are getting better and there's no effective difference in the effect on game if that 250 grain bullet leaves the muzzle at 2800fps or 2900fps
Id point out that you really don't need the highest available high velocity loads in any rifle or pistol, a projectile that's moving 100-150 fps slower generally has the same lethal effect, its shot placement and a knowledge of the games anatomy and vital organ placement that's always been the key to rapid lethality, heavier projectiles generally penetrate deeper and more consistently
example
I've used a 340 wby MARK-V bolt action with a 250 grain bullet at 2700-2750 fps
and a browning BLR lever action,
in caliber 358 win that pushes a 250 grain bullet at 2300 fps, both I've used on elk,
hit an elk in the similar area and both are rapidly lethal
yes the 340 has a noticeably greater effect on impact, and less drop at longer ranges,
but no elk shrugs off a well placed hit in the vitals from either rifle.
each as advantages, in the thick aspen/conifer and steep canyons the shorter and handy lever action is ideal,
if your watching semi open rolling aspen patches where you might get a 400 yard shot,
the Weatherby MARK-V bolt action and a good bi-pod are very effective/ lethal and accurate tools,
that make precise hits much easier building confidence in a well practiced hunter.
ALWAYS ,ALWAYS CROSS CHECK,
all loads you see on line or in load manuals with at least three ,
and 4-5 different powder and bullet manufacturers manuals,
this practice of cross checking and working with test loads is much preferred,
you will occasionally see typos and mis-prints in a totally different source, hand-load manuals,
and if the loads listed on line , or in various sources don't come very close too agreement, with the listed manual load,
ranges in brand and powder charge, there's something wrong.
sure a grain or two may or may not be significant and you'll need to work up to max loads slowly,
but if you see a load in one manual 5% or greater,
than the max load in a separate source be very cautious
I've occasionally seen really erroneous load data posted , and if I was not in the habit of checking against a minimum of three manuals I might have been in serious trouble, but always remember to start low and work up to max loads as on some rifles/hand guns even the manuals are excessive
https://shootersworldpowder.com/wp-content/uploads/shooters-world-manual.pdf
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