Newby from Ontario Canada

Just found this site by reading up on tall deck 427 builds. I am a paint and body man , i build chassis and hot rods. Looking to build a motor out of my tall deck. And shoe horn it in my 65 Chevy II.
welcome to the web site!
whats your main problem with that project?
(other than the stock suspensions shock towers make placing the BBC engine in the car a HUGE P.I.T.A.)
and the front suspension interferes with the oil pan sump


Trying to figure out rod and piston combos. Wanna a build a 496 tall deck, with a 10.5-1 comp. Putting the big block in my nova is no problem. I am building a tube front clip, this is my 4 th first gen nova, and they have all had small blocks. Time to try something new. Lol
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If your building a tall deck block based BBC 496 stroker, youll generally want to build a tall deck, engine with longer connecting rods to take full advantage of the tall deck architecture
the deck heights .400 taller so youll generally want connecting rods that are longer on the 4.25", stroke , stroker crank
IVE GENERALLY USED SCAT CRANK ROTATING ASSEMBLIES WITH 7/16" ARP ROD BOLTS and 6.385" 0r 6.535" rods as they are longer to compensate for the .400 taller deck height, a call to SCAT will get you the correct part number for a kit forged and internally balanced rotating assembly kit Phone: 310 370 5501
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I picked up a forged eagle 4.25 crank already. Trying to decide which way to go. Either the 6.8 rod with the 1.27. Or 6.535 with a 1.52
Ive generally gone 6.535 with a 1.52 simply because the ring spacing and support clearances are better in my opinion

10.2 deck minus 1.52 compression height, minus 6.535 rods and 4.25/2= minus 2.125 stroke = .02 so the pistons going to stick above the deck .02 requiring a bit thicker .062 head gasket too get the .040-.042 quench Ill look to
achieve, of course if the blocks never been decked it may have the extra .02-.023 still there so measure before buying head gaskets and CC your heads


READ THE LINKS (and especially the SUB LINKS)
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Thanks very much for all the input. Never had anything to with big block. It's a new adventure for me.
I want it to be a pump gas motor that's for sure. Guess I got some figuring to do before I order the pistons.
Welcome to the forum Chad! I would listen to Grumpy, he is our best gearhead and administrator here at Grumpy's Garage! He and Indycars have pretty much babied me along on my Dart SHP 400 build and I think I am going to have a rip roar little motor. Grumpy is pretty much our resident BBC expert.
Everything I have typed up on 427 tall decks grumpys name has come up. I am no real expert engine builder and this is confusing stuff to me. I am just a bodyman and I like to build chassis and I want to try this.

the tall deck block requires a longer reach distributor shaft thats about 0.28 longer thus the need for the adjustable collar on the distributor adding the extra reach to get the oil pump drive and drive gears to properly align and mesh.


be aware theres an oil supply passage in the lower block skirt, and coolant passages that extend quite low on the mark IV blocks so you can't just grind excessive rod clearance, for crank counter weights and large, longer stroke , stroker type crank's to the same extent you can get away with on the later MARK V and VI blocks, or the far better choice of a DART aftermarket block, so you'll need to be careful,doing clearance grinding,I would advise limiting stroke lengths to a 4.375" max, even in the tall deck truck MARK IV blocks, the later Mark V and VI blocks have that passage up near the cam tunnel

related info and YEAH! failing to read links or ignoring them can get expensive
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Thanks grumpy. I was just throwing the 4.5" stroker out there. Because it was a deal. But the 4.25" seems more than good enough for what I am gonna do with the motor