GRUMPY? I am considering buying a 1981 Corvette that has been sitting in a garage for 3 yrs. after the previous owner died. It's not known why the car was not running when the owner died, but it's not blown. Owner died before car was taken to a garage for repair. Is there a danger of causing major damage to the motor when attempting to get this motor started back up. I am concerned that I may damage lifters since this model came with a hydraulic cam and it's been sitting for so long. What should I do?
you ABSOLUTELY NEED A SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR,YEAR,MAKE,MODEL
http://www.helminc.com/helm
an engine that has not run, in 3 years should have the oil changed, the upper cylinders lubricated and fuel filter changed. Id suggest using MARVEL MYSTERY OIL ,squirting into the cylinders, to lube the rings and an oil and filter change and fresh fuel and a fuel filter before you start spinning the engine would help.
after pulling the spark plugs and squirting in a table spoon of M.M.O. in the upper cylinders ,youll need a new battery in almost any case after 3 years, but once the engine spins easily on the starter with the plugs removed you should be able to re-install the plugs and start trouble shooting,
ID start by verifying fuel pressure and the carbs float levels,
checking for vacuum leaks,
verify spark at the plugs,
set the timing and adjusting the valves,
and ID throw a couple quarts of 10w30 shell or texico oil and a couple quarts of M.M.O. ,and replace the fuel and fuel filter
and a new oil filter in the engine to dissolve sludge, for the first few hours run time, before ID even try to spin the engine
Id also pour a couple pints of fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank to dissolve crud in the fuel lines
yes it will take you some time but it will be worth the effort to read thru the links and sub linked info below look I know its going to take some research, and testing, Im well aware is frustrating,
but randomly replacing components is a rather expensive and far from effective way to fix the issue
and while reading links <AND SUB LINKS) might be painful , but it will lead you to the source of the problem
you need to get a shop manual, and multi meter and start checking each stage of the process
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=6082&p=18927&hilit=testing+coil#p18927
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728&p=1025&hilit=sensors+camaro#p1025
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1015
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=875
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=294
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2798
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1701
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=3301
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=251
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4683
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-swap-source-info.12068/
If you look over the threads on this and most other sites related to cars you'll see a recurring theme,and that theme is related to the total frustration many guys seem to feel when the car engine won,t run or run correctly, and for some reason the average response is to start throwing random guess work list of new parts at the problem, rather than stepping back, and doing a logical list of tests and braking out the shop manual, multi meter, vacuum and fuel pressure gauges and a timing light and using the tools too isolate the source of the problem by testing sensors,electrical connections and function of each related component , AFTER RESEARCHING the problem.
the basics remain the same
you need compression ],
which means the rings and valves must seal the cylinder and the cam lobe timing must be CORRECTLY indexed to the crank rotation
YOU NEED FUEL
which means the carburetor or injectors on the engine must get an adequate flow and consistent pressure, and must atomize that fuel and mix it with air flow in the proper ratio.
YOU NEED ignition
which means the spark plugs must fire, or arc, at the proper time in relation to piston location as the crank and cam rotate,with a spark or adequate heat and duration to ignite the compressed fuel air mix
YOU NEED AN UN RESTRICTED AIR FLOW ]
which requires that both the intake manifold and exhaust system allow near unrestricted flow into and out of the engine
YOUR ENGINE MUST BE PROPERLY LUBRICATED
which both reduces heat and wear and keeps the engine from seizing up, or getting into detonation or having parts fail from heat stress
YOU NEED A COOLING SYSTEM
to maintain the engines operational temperature in its intended range, and reduce wear and parts failure so the lubrication and cooling systems, operate together.
ALL THE SENSORS MUST WORK, SO CHECK YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, FUSES AND GROUNDS
if one or more of these functions or the sensors that control these functions fails your engine won,t operate correctly so its your job to isolate the problem
the light gray sludge, inside valve covers, is frequently the result of small quantities of moisture trapped in the engine ,
resulting in most cases ,from letting it sit without it being run.
if it clears up, after the engines run for 10-20 minutes,
and you don,t see indications of its return the next day, your most likely fine.
if you park a car with a hot engine in a cold garage or outside over night, it is rather common for moisture too collect inside the valve covers,
this is one reason its generally a good idea for your engines oil temps to exceed 215F for a few minutes or more,
every time its run, as it takes several minutes running time at that temp to vaporize all the micro moisture,
trapped in the engine if its not run on a rather consistent and preventative basis
you ABSOLUTELY NEED A SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR CAR,YEAR,MAKE,MODEL
http://www.helminc.com/helm
an engine that has not run, in 3 years should have the oil changed, the upper cylinders lubricated and fuel filter changed. Id suggest using MARVEL MYSTERY OIL ,squirting into the cylinders, to lube the rings and an oil and filter change and fresh fuel and a fuel filter before you start spinning the engine would help.
after pulling the spark plugs and squirting in a table spoon of M.M.O. in the upper cylinders ,youll need a new battery in almost any case after 3 years, but once the engine spins easily on the starter with the plugs removed you should be able to re-install the plugs and start trouble shooting,
ID start by verifying fuel pressure and the carbs float levels,
checking for vacuum leaks,
verify spark at the plugs,
set the timing and adjusting the valves,
and ID throw a couple quarts of 10w30 shell or texico oil and a couple quarts of M.M.O. ,and replace the fuel and fuel filter
and a new oil filter in the engine to dissolve sludge, for the first few hours run time, before ID even try to spin the engine
Id also pour a couple pints of fuel injector cleaner in the fuel tank to dissolve crud in the fuel lines
yes it will take you some time but it will be worth the effort to read thru the links and sub linked info below look I know its going to take some research, and testing, Im well aware is frustrating,
but randomly replacing components is a rather expensive and far from effective way to fix the issue
and while reading links <AND SUB LINKS) might be painful , but it will lead you to the source of the problem
you need to get a shop manual, and multi meter and start checking each stage of the process
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=1401
viewtopic.php?f=44&t=6082&p=18927&hilit=testing+coil#p18927
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=728&p=1025&hilit=sensors+camaro#p1025
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2697
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1015
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=875
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=294
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2798
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=1701
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=3301
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=251
viewtopic.php?f=70&t=4683
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-swap-source-info.12068/
If you look over the threads on this and most other sites related to cars you'll see a recurring theme,and that theme is related to the total frustration many guys seem to feel when the car engine won,t run or run correctly, and for some reason the average response is to start throwing random guess work list of new parts at the problem, rather than stepping back, and doing a logical list of tests and braking out the shop manual, multi meter, vacuum and fuel pressure gauges and a timing light and using the tools too isolate the source of the problem by testing sensors,electrical connections and function of each related component , AFTER RESEARCHING the problem.
the basics remain the same
you need compression ],
which means the rings and valves must seal the cylinder and the cam lobe timing must be CORRECTLY indexed to the crank rotation
YOU NEED FUEL
which means the carburetor or injectors on the engine must get an adequate flow and consistent pressure, and must atomize that fuel and mix it with air flow in the proper ratio.
YOU NEED ignition
which means the spark plugs must fire, or arc, at the proper time in relation to piston location as the crank and cam rotate,with a spark or adequate heat and duration to ignite the compressed fuel air mix
YOU NEED AN UN RESTRICTED AIR FLOW ]
which requires that both the intake manifold and exhaust system allow near unrestricted flow into and out of the engine
YOUR ENGINE MUST BE PROPERLY LUBRICATED
which both reduces heat and wear and keeps the engine from seizing up, or getting into detonation or having parts fail from heat stress
YOU NEED A COOLING SYSTEM
to maintain the engines operational temperature in its intended range, and reduce wear and parts failure so the lubrication and cooling systems, operate together.
ALL THE SENSORS MUST WORK, SO CHECK YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS, FUSES AND GROUNDS
if one or more of these functions or the sensors that control these functions fails your engine won,t operate correctly so its your job to isolate the problem
the light gray sludge, inside valve covers, is frequently the result of small quantities of moisture trapped in the engine ,
resulting in most cases ,from letting it sit without it being run.
if it clears up, after the engines run for 10-20 minutes,
and you don,t see indications of its return the next day, your most likely fine.
if you park a car with a hot engine in a cold garage or outside over night, it is rather common for moisture too collect inside the valve covers,
this is one reason its generally a good idea for your engines oil temps to exceed 215F for a few minutes or more,
every time its run, as it takes several minutes running time at that temp to vaporize all the micro moisture,
trapped in the engine if its not run on a rather consistent and preventative basis
Last edited by a moderator:
