TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

What is the rpm range of the cam in your engine? If I am not mistake its about 235 duration guessing there. I am just wondering if it's struggling when it's below the minimum in your cam range? I plan on running octane booster in mine all the time to keep it safe from detonation. I just have a weird feeling if you don't use the lockup on your converter and let the rpm run above 2100 you'll be better off. I remember you and Grumpy, maybe someone else discussing cruising on the highway below 2100 rpm. I am just revisiting a discussion from several months ago.
 
What is the rpm range of the cam in your engine? If I am not mistake its about 235 duration guessing there. I am just wondering if it's struggling when it's below the minimum in your cam range?
RPM range is roughly 3200-6200. Sure get good gas mileage at 1800 RPM on the
highway. Anything below about 1600 rpm and yes I would agree that it struggles,
but at 1800 rpm it purrrs like a kitten.
 
You should not use an overdrive transmission on the highway for extended periods of time without TCC Lockup.
The trans will likely overheat. Kill that expensive High stall torque converter too.
 
What is the rpm range of the cam in your engine? If I am not mistake its about 235 duration guessing there. I am just wondering if it's struggling when it's below the minimum in your cam range? I plan on running octane booster in mine all the time to keep it safe from detonation. I just have a weird feeling if you don't use the lockup on your converter and let the rpm run above 2100 you'll be better off. I remember you and Grumpy, maybe someone else discussing cruising on the highway below 2100 rpm. I am just revisiting a discussion from several months ago.

That was me and I still agree. Rick is running more than 1000 rpm below his minimum rpm range.
He can get away with some of that because the T-Bucket is so light. I would still change the rear end gears.
 
That was me and I still agree. Rick is running more than 1000 rpm below his minimum rpm range.
He can get away with some of that because the T-Bucket is so light. I would still change the rear end gears.
Its not what Rick wants in 2016.
No one has the $$$$ to chase down Hellcats right now.
Only way to do it in a full bodied car Normal Aspirated is the NHRA Super Stock way.
You must scream it....terrify Grumpy.'
Things can go wrong and come apart. Risk.

T- will not take severe launch abuse right now.
Dated rear suspension.'
Its perfect as is now for Rick's intended usage.
Drive. Punch it. Have fun.
 
Cylinder Pressure Note: youll generally want to try hard to maximize the useable compression as the higher the compression before you get into detonation the more efficiently the fuel can be burnt and the more torque the engine can produce, if limited to pump high test 92-93 octane fuel,165 psi # of cylinder pressure is about the best cylinder pressure for Iron heads with 92-93 octane, using pure un-ethanol laced fuel, gasoline. while the faster heat transfer rate of aluminum cylinder heads will usually allow 190psi # as the upper limit or best for aluminum heads.
 
Using 91octane Ethanol free here too.
Cranking compession on mine is 180-185 psi with factory cast iron heads.
165 psi # of cylinder pressure is about the best cylinder pressure for Iron heads with 92-93 octane, using pure un-ethanol laced fuel, gasoline.

So what's your secret Brian? How are you getting away with using 91 octane with 180-185 psi?
 
So what's your secret Brian? How are you getting away with using 91 octane with 180-185 psi?
Nothing Really.

I just gave the engine what it wants.
I have a knack for tuning by ear, sight, smell, feel the engine how it idles, drives down the road, WOT, make mental notes of all.
Much like Grumpy has.'
I never Wide Banned the 425 Olds, there is absolutely no exhaust system intact.
No place for the wide band O2.
LOL
Open exhaust manifolds.

The Oldsmobile engineers were decades ahead of others Blue Printing engines from the factory.

Ahead of Pontiac even.
And Corvette.

Only the L-88 & ZL-1 427 were Blueprinted similar stock.
 
The Vertex Magneto I am using has a very linear smooth advance mechanism.
Its hidden in the bottom drive base.
Super Accurate.
Repeats exact same advance curve every single time.
There are no return springs.
Its a special laminated stacked BRASS pendulum advance mechanism.
I can custom file by hand to suite my advance curve needs.

Working on Magnetos is top secret work.'
You find very little info online how each builder does it exact.
Its an Art & science.
 
I was just thinking that maybe I agree with you Love302Chevy, I would say maybe 3.92 gear would be about right. That might bring the cruising RPM up 2-300 rpm and closer to the range of the cam. Using the lockup converter would be more benefit.
 
I would have to look back for it, but I believe that when Rick changed to the taller tires for more ground clearance,
that made his 3.73 rear gears look closer to 3.23s, rather than 3.55s.
 
Please double-check my math: 2.74 x 3.73 = 10.22 ideal with 28" tires
% change from 28" to 31": (31 - 28) / 28 = 10.7%
10.22 + 10.7% = 11.31
11.31 / 2.74 = 4.13 new ideal gear ratio choose 4.11

to look at this another way: 4.11 - 10.7% (from tire dia change) = 3.67 new effective gear ratio
3.67 x 2.74 = 10.06

for 4.33 gears: 4.33 - 10.7% = 3.87 new effective gear ratio
3.87 x 2.74 = 10.60

4.11 x .67 (OD) = 2.75 gear ratio in OD
for Rick's current 3.73 gears in OD: 3.73 x .67 = 2.50

Make what you will of it.

Took a minute to do some Math.
3.73 rear diff gear X .67 :1 overdrive ratio of Rick's 200R4 is 2.49 :1 Final Gearing .

In your case Rick, you changed from a 28" tire to 31". Therefore,
Percentage Change = ((31 - 28)/28) x 100
= 10.7%
So your 3.73 rear gears now look 10.7% numerically lower, or 3.73 - 10.7% = 3.33 - NOT 3.55 like you stated.

index.php


If Rick changed to 4.11 gears, he would change from 1881 rpm at 70 mph to 2089 rpm - a difference of only
200 rpm in Overdrive. But that might be all he needs to solve that detonation problem.
 
as usual a multi level aproach, here will help and each change will add to your ability to reduce or avoid the detonation issue!
I think that the two keys here are that if the ignition curve and engine temps remain at current levels, Rick will need to both increase the fuels octane, rating, and change the ignition advance and probably richen the mix, (that tends too cool the burn and make detonation less likely.
(the swapping too the 4.11:1-4.56:1 rear gear certainly won,t hurt) the higher number rear gear ratio, can be helpful to increase the cars engines tolerance for not getting into conditions that are favorable to detonation, by rapidly increasing the rpm range it operates in, while Im sure the engine can be tuned to operate well with the current 3.73:1 rear gear, swapping to a 4.11:1-4.56:1 rear gear makes the engine tune less critical
dropping the oil temps with an oil cooler would also help reduce the engines tendency to get into detonation

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-tuning-info-and-links.109/

GENERALLY your fuel/air ratio should be in these ranges
Idle- up too about 2500 rpm try for 14.7:1-15:1 f/a ratio
from about 2500 rpm- too about 4500 rpm try to smoothly and predictably transition the fuel/air ratio mix richer to about 13.5:1
from about 4500 rpm- too about 6500 rpm and higher ,try to smoothly and predictably transition the fuel/air ratio mix richer to about 12.5:1
this is only a starting point on the tune but it generally gets you in the ball park and tends to reduce the chances of the engine reaching detonation conditions.
the ignition advance curve needs to be checked, the chart below is a very good starting point to work from, and USE OF A RICHER FUEL/AIR MIX, WILL AT TIMES BE REQUIRED IN THE OFF IDLE TO 3500 rpm range

chart3e1.jpg
 
as usual a multi level aproach, here will help and each change will add to your ability to reduce or avoid the detonation issue!
I think that the two keys here are that if the ignition curve and engine temps remain at current levels, Rick will need to both increase the fuels octane, rating, and change the ignition advance and probably richen the mix, (that tends too cool the burn and make detonation less likely.
(the swapping too the 4.11:1-4.56:1 rear gear certainly won,t hurt) the higher number rear gear ratio, can be helpful to increase the cars engines tolerance for not getting into conditions that are favorable to detonation, buy rapidly increasing the rpm range it operates in, while Im sure the engine can be tuned to operate well with the current 3.73:1 rear gear, swapping to a 4.11:1-4.56:1 rear gear makes the engine tune less critical
dropping the oil temps with an oil cooler would also help reduce the engines tendency to get into detonation

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-tuning-info-and-links.109/

GENERALLY your fuel/air ratio should be in these ranges
Idle- up too about 2500 rpm try for 14.7:1-15:1 f/a ratio
from about 2500 rpm- too about 4500 rpm try to smoothly and predictably transition the fuel/air ratio mix richer to about 13.5:1
from about 4500 rpm- too about 6500 rpm and higher ,try to smoothly and predictably transition the fuel/air ratio mix richer to about 12.5:1
this is only a starting point on the tune but it generally gets you in the ball park and tends to reduce the chances of the engine reaching detonation conditions.
the ignition advance curve needs to be checked, the chart below is a very good starting point to work from, and USE OF A RICHER FUEL/AIR MIX, WILL AT TIMES BE REQUIRED IN THE OFF IDLE TO 3500 rpm range

chart3e1.jpg
I agree Grumpy.
All your tips above will help.

Backing up to the last week, something has changed fairly recent as you stated prior.
I am still leaning towards hidden cooling sytstem steam pocket being formed in Ricks Brodix cylinder heads on top of the Dart SHP 400 sbc.

Ambient Air temps in Oklahoma have been oven hot too.
 
Its not a perfect Apple to Oranges comparison,
but my Grand Prix weighs 4200 lbs with me in it with 25 gallons of gasoline in the tank full.
Using the stock 3.23 ring & pinion gears.
Turbo 400 trans with a fairly tall 2.48 1st gear.
No overdrive. Stock torque converter. Stall around 1400-1500 rpm.
 
I searched around on Grumpys here for the Small Block Chevy Intake manifold Coolant water bypass modification.
I know I have seen it before Rick.
Did not find it today.

Borrowed a good picture from Google searching .
This modification really helped out when dirt track racing & the radiator was covered jam packed 100 % with Mud and dirt & 150 laps to go to finish & try to win.

269749d1389025708-intake-coolant-lines-rear-2011-10-29-002.jpg
 
Home Forums > The Engine Shop / Non-Year Specific > Intake Systems , fuel systems and related >
calculate required octane for compression ratio
Discussion in 'Intake Systems , fuel systems and related' started by grumpyvette, Jan 10, 2010.

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  1. grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member
    What else influences your car's octane requirements?

    BTW IF YOU WANT TO AVOID ETHANOL LACED FUEL

    http://pure-gas.org/

    * Temperature: Hotter air and engine coolant increases your engine's octane requirements
    * Altitude: Higher altitudes decrease your engine's octane requirements
    * Humidity: Drier air increases your engine's octane requirements
    * Engine spark timing: If your engine's spark timing is increased, the octane requirement increases
    * Driving method: Rapid acceleration and heavy loading increase your octane requirement.

    If your thinking of running pump fuel, the simple answer..
    try to keep your dynamic compression ratio at 8:1,or lower, your intake air temp as low as possible,your oil temperature below about 220f and your coolant temp below about 190f and use 92-or higher octane fuel, and use an ignition system with a knock sensor if possible
    READ THRU THE LINKS ITS WELL WORTH THE EFFORT
    Stoich.gif

    volumetricz.jpg

    volumetric.gif


  2. BTW E10 fuel, (THATS 90% gas /10% ethanol ) is no longer running correctly at the 14.7:1 fuel air ratio, the best ratios closer to 14.2:1 for E10
    blend-chart.jpg

    Blending Race Fuel With Pump Gas
    http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1509-everything-you-need-to-know-about-octane/
    Adding a few gallons of race fuel to varying amounts of pump fuel is a popular octane-boosting method that enthusiasts use. We were curious what a race fuel expert would say about it, so we asked the Rockett Brand team. Here’s what they said:

    “[Mixing race and pump fuels] is an okay thing to do, and much better than ‘octane boosters.’ It does not damage the engine, and improves the quality of the street gas. Octane numbers blend almost linearly, and we actually publish blending charts on our website for those who insist on doing this. For example, if you blend a 92-octane pump gas with a 100-octane race fuel in equal amounts, you will get a 96-octane fuel.

    “But keep in mind, if you don’t want to spend money on straight race fuel, you are watering down the benefits that that straight race fuel has. You may get the octane you need, but you will not get the optimized vapor pressure and blending.



    Read more: http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/ca...-you-need-to-know-about-octane/#ixzz3lpsdQYn9
    Follow us: @HotRodMagazine on Twitter | HotRodMag on Facebook

    viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727

    http://www.motorsportsracingfuels.com/O ... lator.html

    http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howthings ... 70401a.htm

    http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm

    http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/gasoli ... myths.html

    http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tun ... power.html

    http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=87

    http://www.wildbillscorvette.com/OctaneSupreme01.htm

    http://www.circletrack.com/ultimateraci ... index.html

    http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/c ... index.html

    For a typical carburetor equipped engine, without engine management [27,38]:-
    Compression Octane Number Brake Thermal Efficiency
    Ratio Requirement ( Full Throttle )
    5:1 72 -
    6:1 81 25 %
    7:1 87 28 %
    8:1 92 30 %
    9:1 96 32 %
    10:1 100 33 %
    11:1 104 34 %
    12:1 108 35 %

    Modern engines have improved significantly on this, and the changing fuel specifications and engine design should see more improvements, but significant gains may have to await improved engine materials and fuels.

    Based on this information I extrapolated the following expansion of the octane chart

    DCR Octane #
    7.1 87.5
    7.2 88.0
    7.3 88.5
    7.4 89.0
    7.5 89.5
    7.6 90.0
    7.7 90.5
    7.8 91.0
    7.9 91.5
    8.0 92.0
    8.1 92.4
    8.2 92.8
    8.3 93.2

    http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline ... ion-1.html

    http://www.csgnetwork.com/octaneratecalc.html

    http://qcwo.com/technicaldomain/what-is-octane-rating

    http://www.anycalculator.com/octane.htm

    http://www.torquecars.com/articles/fuel ... atings.php

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-vPrLPk ... re=related

    http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/tech/ ... index.html

    http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline ... ion-1.html

    http://www.wildbillscorvette.com/OctaneSupreme01.htm

    viewtopic.php?f=53&t=726&p=5640&hilit=quench#p5640

    viewtopic.php?f=44&t=937&p=6449&hilit=+detonation#p6449

    http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/gasoline_faq.txt

    Compression Octane Number Brake Thermal Efficiency
    Ratio Requirement ( Full Throttle )
    5:1 72 -
    6:1 81 25 %
    7:1 87 28 %
    8:1 92 30 %
    9:1 96 32 %
    10:1 100 33 %
    11:1 104 34 %
    12:1 108 35 %


    Read more: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline ... z0cEhLg8Gn
    http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0 ... index.html

    OK, first fact! the piston can,t compress anything until both valves fully seat, static compression is based on the volume compressed between the piston starting at bottom dead center and compressing everything into the combustion chamber , head gasket quench,volume, that remains when the pistons at TDC
    cpr2.jpg

    definition.jpg

    compress_06.jpg

    quenchjj.jpg

    dynamic compression is the ONLY compression the engine ever sees or deals with, it measure compression from the time both valves seal the chamber,and that is always lower simply because the valves always seat after the piston is already moving upwards on the compression stroke.

  3. crane119671.png

    if we look at the crane cam I linked earlier you see the valves seat at about 75 degrees after bottom dead center

    engbalq5.gif


    Octane_Requirements.gif


    compressgraf.gif


    from what Ive seen working on and tuning engines ,those charts are depicting about the ideal maximum compression ratio to run,in your basically stock engine, giving you a bit of a hedge for detonation resistance, and they pretty much assume a 14.7:1 f/a mix ratio to minimize emissions.
    detonation can destroy an engine but its frequently caused by more than just a bit of compression ratio increase in relation to the octane of the fuel alone, get the heat transfer rates out of the combustion chamber and ignition curves and fuel/air ratios correct and you can run a bit higher ratio that the charts depict.
    A great deal of how well your engine runs will be determined by its state of tuning,if you run a non-emission friendly 12.5-13.1:1 fuel/air ratio where you maximize the engines power curve and play with the ignition timing advance curve to get the best torque ,you can frequently boost the effective compression ratio by about .2-.3 and not only get away with it but make noticeably better power.
    now IM not saying you can ignore the graph, but in the real world its not like if the graph says that if your engines compression ratio is at 9:1 your, engine combo instantly self destructs the point you put 89 octane in the tank,or at 9.1:1 compression, if you mis-calculated,or that if the pump says your getting 91 octane, your not occasionally getting 89,90, or 92 octane.
    get the quench down in the .040-.042 range , polish the combustion chambers and keep the coolant temps below about 190F and run a good oil control system with an oil cooler and you would be AMAZED at how far you can push the limits.....push NOT IGNORE!
    Compression_Power.gif

    Octane_Requirement.gif

    AFR_Torque.gif

    Timing_Torque.gif



    0311phr_compress_07_z.jpg

    pencilball.jpg


    detonpic.jpg


    [
    Stoich.gif


    https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm

    http://www.celsius.co.uk/converter/

    http://www.carsdirect.com/car-maint...-air-intake-system-improve-engine-performance

    http://www.onlineconversion.com/

    http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_hp_dp.htm

    http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm

    http://wahiduddin.net/calc/density_altitude.htm

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-required-octane-for-compression-ratio.2718/



    viewtopic.php?f=52&t=727

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

    http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

    http://dnr.louisiana.gov/sec/EXECDIV/TE ... ns/b/b.htm

    viewtopic.php?f=53&t=726&p=8809&hilit=quench+squish#p8809

    http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Compression Ratios.pdf

    http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... atios.html

    http://www.sacoriver.net/~red/uccr.html

    http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/cam-tech-c.htm

    viewtopic.php?f=56&t=495

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-vPrLPk ... re=related

    viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1343&p=2942&hilit=+booster#p2942

    http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0706 ... index.html

    http://www.serioussolutions.com/evo/octcalc.htm


    ETHANOL ALCOHOL CAN BE USED WITH NITROUS to reduce the tendency towards detonation,increase octane and cool the engines exhaust but of course the fuel and injectors or carb must be compatible and locating a nearby source of E85 may not be easy
    http://www.e85locator.net/

    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 1, 2016
    IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
    IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
    grumpyvette, Jan 10, 2010 Report
    #1 Like + Quote Reply

  4. grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member
    A Consumer's Guide:
    Gasoline Octane for Cars
    from Gasoline Questions & Answers for Your Car
    API Publication 1580, Sixth edition, January 1996
    Q. What is octane?

    A. Octane is a measure of a gasoline's ability to resist knock or pinging noise from an engine. In older vehicles, knock may be accompanied by engine run-on, or dieseling. Knock is the sharp, metallic-sounding engine noise that results from uncontrolled combustion. Severe knocking over an extended time may damage pistons and other engine parts. If you can hear knocking, you should have your engine checked to make sure it is calibrated correctly and does not have a mechanical or electrical problem, or use a higher octane gasoline.

    In most vehicles no benefit is gained from using gasoline that has a higher octane number than is needed to prevent knock. However, in some vehicles equipped with a knock sensor (an electronic device installed in many modern engines that allows the engine management system to detect and reduce knock), a higher octane gasoline may improve performance slightly.

    Q. What determines my car's octane requirements?
    A. Your car's octane requirements are mainly determined by its basic design. In addition, variations in engines due to manufacturing tolerances can cause cars of the same model to require a different octane of several numbers. Also, as a new car is driven, its octane requirement can increase because of the buildup of combustion chamber deposits. This continues until a stable level is reached, typically after about 15,000 miles. The stabilized octane requirement may be 3-6 numbers higher than when the car was new. Premium or midgrade fuel may be advisable to prevent knock.

    Other factors also influence your car's knocking characteristics:
    Temperature - Generally, the hotter the ambient air and engine coolant, the greater the octane requirement.

    Altitude - The higher the altitude above sea level, the lower the octane requirement. Modern computer-controlled engines adjust spark timing and air-fuel ratio to compensate for changes in barometric pressure, and thus the effect of altitude on octane requirement is smaller in these vehicles.

    Humidity - The drier the air, the greater the octane requirement. The recommendations that vehicle manufacturers give are for normal- to low-humidity levels.

    Your engine's spark timing - The octane requirement increases as the spark timing is advanced. Both the basic setting of the spark timing and the operation of the automatic spark advance mechanisms are important in controlling knock. In some computer controlled engines, the spark timing can only be changed by replacing modules in the computer. If they are equipped with knock sensors, these computer controlled engines have the ability to retard the ignition temporarily when a sensor detects knock. This temporarily reduces the octane requirement and may also temporarily reduce vehicle performance.

    Method of driving - Rapid acceleration and heavy loading, such as pulling a trailer or climbing a hill, may result in a greater octane requirement. Stop-and-go driving and excessive idling can increase octane requirements by causing the buildup of combustion chamber deposits.

    Malfunctions of emission control systems - An improperly functioning emissions control system can affect the octane requirement by changing the air-fuel mixture or by not providing dilution gases through the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. If a malfunction occurs, your vehicle should be taken to a qualified vehicle service mechanic. Some problems are indicated by warning lights on the driver's instrument panel.

    Q. How many grades of gasoline are available?
    A. Most places that sell gasoline offer three octane grades of unleaded gasoline--regular at 87 (R+M)/2, midgrade at 89 (R+M)/2, and premium at 93 (R+M)/2. In high-altitude areas such as the Rocky Mountain Region of the U.S., the (R+M)/2 number may be lower by one or two numbers. After January 1, 1996, no leaded gasoline may be sold for highway use.

    Q. Which octane grade should I use in my car?
    A. Use the recommendation in your car owner's manual as a starting point for selecting the proper gasoline. If you notice engine knock over an extended time and your engine is adjusted correctly, try a higher octane gasoline. Also, higher octane may provide a performance benefit (better acceleration) in cars equipped with knock sensors. Many late model and high-performance (turbo-charged and supercharged) cars fall into this category.

    IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
    IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
    grumpyvette, Feb 8, 2011 Report
    #2 Like + Quote Reply

  5. grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member
    viewtopic.php?f=44&t=773

    viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109

    viewtopic.php?f=55&t=613&p=817&hilit=octane+booster#p817

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/toluene-octane-calculator.11278/

    viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1790

    viewtopic.php?f=55&t=3172

    viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1442

    viewtopic.php?f=50&t=2891

    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 11, 2015
    IF YOU CAN,T SMOKE THE TIRES AT WILL,FROM A 60 MPH ROLLING START YOUR ENGINE NEEDS MORE WORK!!"!
    IF YOU CAN , YOU NEED BETTER TIRES AND YOUR SUSPENSION NEEDS MORE WORK!!
    grumpyvette, Feb 8, 2011 Report
    #3 Like + Quote Reply

  6. 87vette81big solid fixture here in the forum
    Grumpy How Relavent in your experience are these Dynamic compression Ratio calculators with Vintage Detroit Iron?
    Cast Iron production heads used.
    Read above yesterday & all links.

    My '65 Olds 425ci V8.
    Used the old Kieth Black engine calculator, United Machine now.
    Have a tight Quench area stock as is. .032"
    Calculated static 10.4:1
    Math by hand 9.2:1.
    Dynamic with my Isky Cam 6.99:1.

    Many are saying these Dynamic compression calculators have been found useless.
    Pontiac sites included.

    Previous owner said this 425 ran great on 91-93 octane.

    Your chart above says I should be able to run 87-89 octane.
    Be Coll radiator in place. Can easily maintain 180F water temps.
    quenchd1.png


    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 11, 2016
    87vette81big, Aug 26, 2013 Report
    #4 + Quote Reply

  7. 87vette81big solid fixture here in the forum
    Building for Tor
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I reviewed again last night Grumpy.

For sustained WOT I still need 100 motor octane fuel.

Our estimates thus far are for part throttle operation.
Rick & me are just tooling around for now.
 
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