Your take on this is pretty close to mine, but it does differ in that I don't think the mains have anything to do with this. One thing I didn't mention was that I turned the engine over a couple of revs before taking a reading. To get a reading I had to go thru several more revs, it was hard to read while turning and trying to do it at constant rate.busterrm said:I would be willing to say that the different increases to turn the crank has something to do with the location of the piston just put in and the pistons already in the block. For instance, #1 put in gave 65 in/lbs then #2 gave 10 more, then it took 50 more with #3 then 25 more with #4. My point is with #1 and 2 your pulling 2 mains and 2 rods, then #3 and 4 your pulling 3 mains and 4 rods. Then you move to another set, by this time you have turned it some and the lube is getting spread around all the rods and mains, so #5 doesn't affect it zilch, then # 6 bridges it to next main and adds 50 more, now your pulling 6 rods and 4 mains. Now you go to the last rod journal, # 7 adds 25 more then # 8 adds nothing, but by this time your turning real well pulling 8 rods and 5 mains. With 225 in/lbs your pulling 28.125 in/lbs or 2.344 ft/lbs per piston. I agree with Grumpy 18-20 ft/lbs is a good number for rotating assembly rotation. I am wondering what it will add when your cam has been degreed in?
The head are the Brodix IK200. The manifold is Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap and the carb is undecided, but it will be a 750 cfm Quick Fuel or Speed Demon.busterrm said:Rick, this a nice looking shortblock! What are your heads? I forget! And what intake and Carb are you going to run on this beast?
I remember not many posts ago you had the freeze plug in the back of the cam didn't you say it was deeper than you wanted it? Or I maybe confused about which sprocket is out more from the block. But it looks to me like the cam is out, just thought it might be that freeze plug in to far, as you said in that post.Indycars said:
I posted the first picture back in November showing the mis-alignment between the cam
gear and crank gear. Thought I had it covered, since I ordered shim months ago in .015"
and .005" with a 1-1/4" ID to fit the crank snout. But the thing I didn't consider was the
radius, so it looks like I need to order shims with a 1-3/8 ID. It will make the OD bigger of
course but it still fits in the crank gear recess.
The Fastenal website doesn't show them in stock locally, so most likely it will be 2-3 days
before I have them in hand.
It's nice and safe all wrapped up and packed away in a box. I'm using this cheaper pan for now that I bought, but decided not to use. I may even put the motor in the car before I replace the oil pan with the nice black one. The only sealer will be between the gasket and the block, but none between the gasket and the oil pan.busterrm said:hey what happened to that pretty black oil pan?