The Force Awakens...
- Thread starter DorianL
- Start date
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
http://www.c3vr.com/vrforums/c3-driveline-components/4-speed-hurst-shifter-install/448598/
Read through this post Dorian.
Hurst did make a kit just for C3 Corvettes.
It has been discontinued.
Maybe find searching.
Never seen this kit mentioned on Digital Corvette.
Just know you need a Fat wallet of $$$$ to pull off a Tremec 5 or 6 install.
Nice for cruising when done.
Prefer a Muncie myself.
True close ratio compared to all modern Overdrives.
Perform stellar with highway gears used.
Or drag race gears for 1/4 mile action only.
Read through this post Dorian.
Hurst did make a kit just for C3 Corvettes.
It has been discontinued.
Maybe find searching.
Never seen this kit mentioned on Digital Corvette.
Just know you need a Fat wallet of $$$$ to pull off a Tremec 5 or 6 install.
Nice for cruising when done.
Prefer a Muncie myself.
True close ratio compared to all modern Overdrives.
Perform stellar with highway gears used.
Or drag race gears for 1/4 mile action only.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Hi Frank, you sure had me worried buddy. I bought the Hurst shifter several years back just before my cancer and never got to put it on yet, so after reading your post I dug in to the garage to check the part #. Yep, it's 391-0028 and the install kit is 373-8621 (HUU 373-8621). It's hard to believe that they would discontinue an application without a substitute. I'd sure like to hear how the install goes for ya. I've got a buddy that owned an auto shop that claimed they were a "PITA" but he didn't make clear what he meant. Great lookin' body on that Vette Frank. Keep us posted my friend.
You have the gaps in the door panels because screws are missing, never installed. Missing the factory dimpled screw holes top and bottom means they are not OEM. Carpet is not either. Noticed that the car has been resprayed, under went a lot of restoration work once. Make sure you blow out the ductwork before reassemble time, it’s a popular place for mice to call home.
Screw holes where? Is there a way to close this gap? Or is this classic 60s GM ?
Ira, you just have a case where the installer didn’t finish the job. The C3 has about the worst interiors to work with. Aftermarket parts fit very poorly. I alway send bad cores to Al Knochs in TX for restoration, cheaper than new and tremendously better when you get parts back.
Corvette assembly line did not have a template for the screw holes to attach the door panels. I’ll post a door panel photo showing the screw locations and you have to look for the hole in the steel door to line things up for the new screws.
Don’t forget the plastic cover (make your own from a heavyweight trash/lawn bag) that covers the door behind the door panel) 1/16” foam sheeting acts as a sound insulation barrier, sold by Corvette parts retailers however you can make your own. Also, make sure you screw the door pull through the panel and into the steel door.
Corvette assembly line did not have a template for the screw holes to attach the door panels. I’ll post a door panel photo showing the screw locations and you have to look for the hole in the steel door to line things up for the new screws.
Don’t forget the plastic cover (make your own from a heavyweight trash/lawn bag) that covers the door behind the door panel) 1/16” foam sheeting acts as a sound insulation barrier, sold by Corvette parts retailers however you can make your own. Also, make sure you screw the door pull through the panel and into the steel door.
Pay attention to #4 screw locations
#5 angle clips attached permanently to door panel - attaches to steel door with screws.
#8 is a two part fastener (one part on steel door, other is on the door panel) they are friction fit together. Rivited on, 3 across the bottom, and one each left and right side of door panel. Newer fasteners work better.
Although it does not show, many installers use two ring shank screws, (#5 illustrated) - one on each side at bottom corners. BEFORE you use additional screws, first review all factory fastener locations or orrect fit.
On occasions, door panels can be warped counter to a lay flat fit to the door. Check with a straight edge and if bowed, place in sun for a couple hours to warm up then install immediately.
I hope I have helped you a bit. Anything not clear let me know.
#5 angle clips attached permanently to door panel - attaches to steel door with screws.
#8 is a two part fastener (one part on steel door, other is on the door panel) they are friction fit together. Rivited on, 3 across the bottom, and one each left and right side of door panel. Newer fasteners work better.
Although it does not show, many installers use two ring shank screws, (#5 illustrated) - one on each side at bottom corners. BEFORE you use additional screws, first review all factory fastener locations or orrect fit.
On occasions, door panels can be warped counter to a lay flat fit to the door. Check with a straight edge and if bowed, place in sun for a couple hours to warm up then install immediately.
I hope I have helped you a bit. Anything not clear let me know.
PS. See above 1969 door panel (notice screw holes far top left on stepdown contour, and far upper right side at top.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
That is a Beautiful early C3 Door panel.
Better listen to Richard !
Better listen to Richard !
Oh definitely! Willcox, Zip, Ecklers, Mid America, Paragon, Corvette Central and a few others sell them. You will also find those fasteners under the interior side of your tee top panels and behind the “A” pillar interior plastic trim. The plastic shrinks a little therefore loosing their ability to interlock securely.
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Thanks!! I will replace them all. (None of them seem to work)
I need to find out if they have those missing screws as well. SHOCKED that they were not installed.
Can the door panel be "un-warped" by placing in hot water? Not much sun over here...
NO! You can use a lamp that throws off heat, or some other safe* method of warming up the panel (heat from the reverse side only) and carefully and logically reinstall while still workable and fasten correctly to the door. Upon cooling the panel will hold its new shape.
If you wet the door beyond using ordinary spray cleaners you run the risk of releasing the adhesive behind the vinyl that covers the plastic panel.
The correct screws are available through any one of the vendors on the list I provided earlier ($5 to $7 per set on average). Any trouble- contact me.
*Safe when using logic and or common sense.
If you wet the door beyond using ordinary spray cleaners you run the risk of releasing the adhesive behind the vinyl that covers the plastic panel.
The correct screws are available through any one of the vendors on the list I provided earlier ($5 to $7 per set on average). Any trouble- contact me.
*Safe when using logic and or common sense.
If at any time you need a better look at OEM hardware on a C3 just let me know and I will provide pictures or let you know where they can be found. Btw, there happens to be bulk sets of interior screws ranging from 1/4” to 3” recess head sheet metal screws available at the vendors and on eBay or Amazon.com
Thanks!! I will replace them all. (None of them seem to work)
I need to find out if they have those missing screws as well. SHOCKED that they were not installed.
Can the door panel be "un-warped" by placing in hot water? Not much sun over here...
You can slip a flat tool or flat screwdriver behind and pop those plastic friction fit fasteners off. You may use glue, rivets or 1/4” sheet metal screws when installing the new fasteners.
Went pretty much smoothly. Just disconnecting the shifter was a question mark.My cherry picker was not big enough to reach over. We managed to find a rental.
Finally once I completely removed the trans mount and bracket, it lifted right out.
Good job. See you went with stripping everything off the motor. Yes, if you don’t have a 2ton lift the reach may fall a little short compared to the 1 or 1.5 ton lifts. How did the clutch look?
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Nice Work Dorian.
I tried keeping the accessories on but we kept on running into snags. It was just easier to remove them. I had to drop the headers as well.
How did the clutch look? I have NO idea. Never having seen a clutch, I could not tell you if it was in good shape or not.
It’s quite dark here now. It was a good day of work. Tomorrow I’ll get a real close look at everything and assess. Oh and another screw up was tripping and dumping a container full of coolant all over the floor.