think logically don,t assume


The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
david said:
I have an 82 with just under 80k on it. I was tooling down the road and power just went away. I was able to limp home feathering the throttle to keep it alive. Now in the garage for a while, its starts right up and but will not hold throttle. Goes up to 3k rpm and then loses power. Sounds great, no knocking or anything, just wont stay at high rpm or idle>
Any suggestions?

without testing you simply guessing
never guess, deal in verified FACTS!
set up a multi meter like this and pull fuses one at a time to locate shorted circuits

without testing you simply guessing
never guess, deal in verified FACTS!

guessing is a waste of time
think logically, isolate and test

if your car has the ability to let you read trouble codes USE THEM
any time you find any issue,or operating condition,
with any engine,
that comes and goes consistently,but the engine returns to its original state,
when some other factor, like time from starting the engine,driving speed,
or distance traveled or outside temps,
or engine temps, youll want to think about and think , and find out what changed, that potentially caused the issue?
in your case it would seem like the engine heat increased , but thats not the only potential issue.
what's the battery voltage?
are you 100% sure you have good fresh fuel in the tank and good fuel pressure?
did you just fill the tank with fresh fuel before the problem started?
did you run through a large puddle?
have any work done recently?
changed the tires?
hear and strange noises? have you checked the gauges or pulled trouble codes?
fuel pressure, at the fuel rail for injectors, or carburetor fuel inlet pressure,
and yes, use of a small handy and accurate fuel pressure gauge, mounted on the fuel injector fuel rail (0-100 psi for FUEL INJECTION)

or carb inlet port (0-15 psi for carburetors)is almost mandatory, they generally cost under $30

fuel temp, entering the carb, or injectors, check your exhaust back-pressure,engine coolant heat, transmission fluid temp. oil viscosity, your exhaust system temp, exhaust back-pressure, ignition wire heat, exhaust temps, etc. change as your driving,
check obvious things like fuel filters, air filters oil pressure, fluid levels, what do the spark plugs look like? whats the carb float level set at<etc.
a bit of testing and isolating each potential source, procedure would help here!
there will be obvious clues and having a few tools won't hurt!


until you take the time to verify your thoughts your just guessing
checking your ideas and testing is just not that difficult

got a decent multi meter?

whats the battery and alternator voltage?

hows your fuel level,is the fuel pump working consistently?

hows the cars electrical voltage?
it should be about 14.5 volts if the alternator and battery are good,
and your electrical grounds are good.
your fuel pressure regulator should be checked

these threads will help

both throttle body injectors checked

have you verified your fuel pressure is consistent at or near,15 psi ? once the car starts
have you changed the fuel and air filters?

have you looked for loose or burnt ignition wires, loose or burnt vacuum lines?

have you verified the oil pressure?

a defective oil pressure sensor will kill the fuel pump or ignition spark.

have you done a compression test on each cylinder?

have you inspected the valve train for broken parts?

have you correctly adjusted the valves?

have you checked for potential vacuum leaks with an un-lighted propane torch?

have you verified the ignition timing?

have you verified that your getting a strong and consistent blue,ignition spark that is not changing, your distrib or ignition are suspect?

have you?
you can rather rapidly isolate the cause from logical tests

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