I don,t know how many of you gentlemen have shop welder/generators or other lawn mowers or similar equipment that requires you to buy and transport a bit of fuel for thier use, but Ive noticed that finding a well designed structually strong 5 gallon fuel transport container thats rather leak and puncture resistants getting much harder to locate.
ethanol laced fuel has a very limited acceptable storage life expectancy and should NEVER be used in things like generators, lawn mowers chain saws and weed whackers as the ethanol content rapidly corrodes small engine carburator internal parts if left in storage.
most of us "car guys" have one or more "JERRY CANS"
or the cheaper plastic knock-offs that are vaguely similar
I use red cans for gas and BLUE for diesel
neither 5 gallon transport tank design works well in some cases simply because both may leak if not kept in the upright position and in a car trunk they may not allow the trunk lid to close or they may tip over during transport.
having a few bungee cords to stabilize the tank(s) during transport helps
the newer plastic fuel tanks lack a seperate air vent,they are designed to allow air into the container as fuel is dispensed through the pour spout , this results in a slow and surging fuel flow.
if you were to drill a small air bleed hole of about 1/10" in diam. in the upper surface of the handle area, this helps fuel flow measurably, allowing air in, but its also a potential leak.
the cheap/simple solution is to use a short 5/16" diam. screw eye , you can purchase for under 70 cents at most hardware stores ,thats easily inserted in that vent hole,you drill with a 1/4" drill to prevent leaks during transport and removed from the vent hole when your pouring fuel.
YES ADDING THAT AIR VENTS MANDATORY
http://pure-gas.org/extensions/map.html
https://gasnearmestation.com/non-ethanol-gas-near-me/
E85 gas station locations
http://e85locator.net/E85locations.html
All gasoline breaks down over time, most gas absorbs moisture from the air to some extent, ethanol laced fuel is especially prone to this moisture absorption.
ethanol is hygroscopic
hy·gro·scop·ic
ˌhīɡrəˈskäpik/
adjective
(of a substance) tending to absorb moisture from the air.
water combined with ethanol is highly corrosive if left in contact with most metals over long time periods
the ability of gasoline to quickly and easily vaporize tends to degrade over time making it significantly less easily ignited as its the vapor not the liquid component of the fuel that burns the most efficiently, normally heat helps rapidly atomize and vaporize the fuel, but as fuel ages the easily vaporized components tend to be lost to evaporation, leaving a less easily ignited and usually DARKER COLORED LIQUID.
mixing the remaining old gas with new fuel will generally help but not cure the issue!
I use STA-BIL marine fuel additive in my lesser used engines, but reading the info on various site the LONGEST listed time frame it seems to work for as designed was about 2 years, if I had gas over 2 years old ID personally drain the tank, add stabil, plus a name brand fuel system cleaner and a fresh fuel filter,add fresh non-alcohol laced fuel, and flush the fuel rail and or car fuel bowls, before using the car or engine,
Id probably use the old fuel I drained to clean parts or ignite a trash pile, yeah you might be able to mix it with fresh fuel and use it but the chances of it having absorbed moisture, separated into various less than ideal for use as a fuel,components while sitting for over two years,or causing issues with the engine that might damage it,would just not be worth the risk in my opinion.
http://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/top ... s-debunked
http://www.sta-bil360.com/how-it-works
there ARE ETHANOL FREE GAS STATIONS LISTED, when you NEED TO FILL A MUSCLE CAR TANK, HERES MY LOCAL STATION, yes it costs more short term, easily an extra 70-80 cents a gallon, but you don,t run nearly the same risk of trashing your muscle cars engine and fuel delivery systems
http://pure-gas.org/extensions/map.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-e85-in-your-old-muscle-car.2141/#post-5780
ethanol laced fuel has a very limited acceptable storage life expectancy and should NEVER be used in things like generators, lawn mowers chain saws and weed whackers as the ethanol content rapidly corrodes small engine carburator internal parts if left in storage.
most of us "car guys" have one or more "JERRY CANS"
Jerry Cans - 5 To 20 Liter Jerry Cans
View Jerry Cans you can buy online. Order from our selection of cans, sizes 5 liters to 20 liters. Red and olive green.
www.roverparts.com
or the cheaper plastic knock-offs that are vaguely similar
I use red cans for gas and BLUE for diesel
neither 5 gallon transport tank design works well in some cases simply because both may leak if not kept in the upright position and in a car trunk they may not allow the trunk lid to close or they may tip over during transport.
having a few bungee cords to stabilize the tank(s) during transport helps
the newer plastic fuel tanks lack a seperate air vent,they are designed to allow air into the container as fuel is dispensed through the pour spout , this results in a slow and surging fuel flow.
if you were to drill a small air bleed hole of about 1/10" in diam. in the upper surface of the handle area, this helps fuel flow measurably, allowing air in, but its also a potential leak.
the cheap/simple solution is to use a short 5/16" diam. screw eye , you can purchase for under 70 cents at most hardware stores ,thats easily inserted in that vent hole,you drill with a 1/4" drill to prevent leaks during transport and removed from the vent hole when your pouring fuel.
YES ADDING THAT AIR VENTS MANDATORY
http://pure-gas.org/extensions/map.html
https://gasnearmestation.com/non-ethanol-gas-near-me/
E85 gas station locations
http://e85locator.net/E85locations.html
All gasoline breaks down over time, most gas absorbs moisture from the air to some extent, ethanol laced fuel is especially prone to this moisture absorption.
ethanol is hygroscopic
hy·gro·scop·ic
ˌhīɡrəˈskäpik/
adjective
(of a substance) tending to absorb moisture from the air.
water combined with ethanol is highly corrosive if left in contact with most metals over long time periods
the ability of gasoline to quickly and easily vaporize tends to degrade over time making it significantly less easily ignited as its the vapor not the liquid component of the fuel that burns the most efficiently, normally heat helps rapidly atomize and vaporize the fuel, but as fuel ages the easily vaporized components tend to be lost to evaporation, leaving a less easily ignited and usually DARKER COLORED LIQUID.
mixing the remaining old gas with new fuel will generally help but not cure the issue!
I use STA-BIL marine fuel additive in my lesser used engines, but reading the info on various site the LONGEST listed time frame it seems to work for as designed was about 2 years, if I had gas over 2 years old ID personally drain the tank, add stabil, plus a name brand fuel system cleaner and a fresh fuel filter,add fresh non-alcohol laced fuel, and flush the fuel rail and or car fuel bowls, before using the car or engine,
Id probably use the old fuel I drained to clean parts or ignite a trash pile, yeah you might be able to mix it with fresh fuel and use it but the chances of it having absorbed moisture, separated into various less than ideal for use as a fuel,components while sitting for over two years,or causing issues with the engine that might damage it,would just not be worth the risk in my opinion.
http://www.goldeagle.com/tips-tools/top ... s-debunked
http://www.sta-bil360.com/how-it-works
there ARE ETHANOL FREE GAS STATIONS LISTED, when you NEED TO FILL A MUSCLE CAR TANK, HERES MY LOCAL STATION, yes it costs more short term, easily an extra 70-80 cents a gallon, but you don,t run nearly the same risk of trashing your muscle cars engine and fuel delivery systems
http://pure-gas.org/extensions/map.html
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-e85-in-your-old-muscle-car.2141/#post-5780
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