IF you put the car up on jack stands and inspect it carefully I think youll find one of the u-joints has failed, its a fairly simple repair procedure, but as most experienced guys know theres many automotive repairs best done only when you've got a helper available, and working on drive shafts and u-joints generally falls in that area
I know this is going to sound silly but I know guys with 30 years experience that still forget to flip the rear grease seal 180 when filling the damn guns ,then they act surprised when the guns leak grease all over the place,when stored, watch the video
Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with Whip Hose
this is a reasonable quality grease gun at a decent price
napa sells this one it looks identical to the one auto zone sells but it cost 2.5 times more
yeah I would strongly suggest this specific grease as its well known for durability in u-joints
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L60E_to_4L80E_Swap.htm
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Vie ... grease-gun
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-23-Piece-Ball-Joint-U-Joint-Service-Kit-648617/203120548?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-Garage-Automotive|&gclid=CM7-rI-e-tQCFUa4wAodcnEHfg&gclsrc=aw.ds
WHY pay a dealer or repair shop more than the parts and tools combined cost when you can own the tools and do the job yourself
I bought and use this press and so far ITS never had the slightest difficulty doing any of the jobs you listed and several more like U-joints
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/catalogs ... s&x=16&y=9
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p461_3r_series_u
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=3150&p=30189&hilit=shop+manual#p30189
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader8 ... joint.html
http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... _delivery/
http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-t ... placement/
this is cheap and slow
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335
below a better tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33497
* Free Shipping on Driver Safety Gear, orders over $100
*
* Pit Stop USA Gift Cards
How To Select A Racing Driveshaft
Courtesy of PST - Precision Shaft Technologies
Step 1: Identify Transmission
Chrysler – Dodge
* 727 - 30 Spline 1 11/16" Seal Diameter
* 904 - 26 Spline 1 9/16" Seal Diameter
Ford
* C6-T56 - 31 Spline 1 11/16" Seal Diameter
* AOD & C4 & T5 - 28 Spline 1 1/2" Seal Diameter
* 4 R 7OW - 28 Spline 1.598" Seal Diameter
General Motors
* T-350 700R4-4LLOE - 27 Spline 1 1/2" Seal Diameter
* T-400-4L80E - 32 Spline 1 7/8" Seal Diameter
Note: Transmission slip yokes are manufactured with various U-Joint Series. It is important to match Horsepower and Torque requirements to U-Joint Series. For aftermarket transmission applications usually a spline count and seal diameter will identify slip yoke required.
Step 2: Identify Rear U-Joint
PST Diagram D
If Pinion Yoke has Placement tabs that retain the U-Joint, measure inside tabs. See Diagram D.
PST Diagram E
If Pinion Yoke does not have Placement Tabs that retain U-Joint, measure from flat of yoke inside to inside. See Diagram E.
PST Diagram L
If 4 bolt Flange is used on pinion, measure Pilot Diameter and center to center diagonally bolt hole to bolt hole. See Diagram L.
Universal Joint Size. There are hundreds of U-Joint sizes or "Series" to accomodate many different applications of power and desired longevity for your automotive, 4x4 truck or auto racing requirements, these 4 series of joints cover most needs.
OEM Spicer uni's same as what came new
1350 series for halfshafts
Solid version ( no zerk fitting ) if you plan to drive hard
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-799xu-joint.aspx
or the greasable version
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-178xu-joint.aspx
1310 series for DS
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-153xu-joint.aspx
PST Diagram A
1310 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 7/32" length (Dim B - Diagram A) Certain Ford applications have 2 cups 1 1/8 Diameter. Appropriate horse power range is up to 500 in circle track or road racing, small tire drag racing and 4x4. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.
1330 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 5/8" length (Dim B - Diagram A) Certain Ford applications have 2 cups 1 1/8 Diameter. Slightly stronger than 1310, Used in 5.0 Mustangs. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.
3R Saginaw Series: 1 1/8" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) Retained with internal clip 2 5/8" (Dim B - Diagram A). Most common GM joint. Horse power range up to 700 in road racing and circle track. Solid drag racing U-Joint can accomodate most sportsman classes. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.
1350 Spicer Series: Manufactured with OEM tolerances and treated with our Cryogenic Process to yeild the strongest U-Joint available. For drag racing applications a solid non-lube design U-Joint is recommended because of the tremendous initial shock load, or short duration of high torque the joint must be able to withstand.
LOOK THRU THIS LINK
http://www.stevenemichael.com/RestoModC ... Joint.html
now that tool may cost $120 but it will usually cost close to that in labor alone to have a machine shop press out and in all 6 u-joints, and trust me if ones seriously worn ALL of them need replacement
the money saved on a single u-joint swap on a corvette will pay for the press
the local machine shop wanted $20 EACH just to press out and re-install the U-joints, with ME suppling the u-joints or $40 each if they supplied the u-joints, keep in mind thiers 6 u-joints in a corvette, two on the drive shaft and two on EACH half shaft, and if ones bad thru normal wear and mileage then the others have significant mileage on them and should be replaced at the same time
the press cost was $129 when I purchased mine several years ago, its far more than paid for itself since then, and its far easier to use than the screw thread hand held c-clamp type
heres helpfu info ,WITH PICTURES, read thru the links below, as theres Lots of good info
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/de ... -joint.asp
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/ ... hp?t=76752
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/no ... s/arms.asp
http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html
http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-ujoint.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html
first Ill point out that the U-joints made in china are JUNK, so get the AMERICAN MADE u-joints WITHOUT the grease nipples as that design is stronger
next , many machine shops charge $15-20 to remove and instal EACH u-joint with a press, thats 4 u-joints on the half shafts and two on the drive shaft (TOTAL 6) so it can EASILLY run you $90-120 in just labor IF YOU PULL THE SHAFTS and REINSTALL THEM (99% of the LABOR) and have a shop remove/reinstall the u-joints themselfs, thats INSANE if you are doing it on a regular basis, when you can buy a decent press for about the same cost as a single series of replacements
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33497
this is a differant year but most of the info applies
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005...nt/u-joint.asp
http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html
http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...ategoryid=X935
basically youll need a shop manual or similar instructions like the HAYNES manual,
you jack up the rear, place the frame on sturdy jack stands, remove the tires and youll need a long 1/4" extension with a universal and a 10mm socket to reach the straps retaining the u-joints on the inner ends and a shorter extention and box end wrench for the outer ends and the use of the floor jack to reduce the pressure on the rear suspension as you work on each side
BTW once you get familiar with the process you can replace ALL six u-joints in UNDER 4 hours, only need to do the 1/2 shafts, great youll complete that in under 2 hours with practice (WITHOUT AIR TOOLS) (under an hour WITH THEM)
btw
I THINK the u-joint part # for the dana 44 are
Spicer # 5-799X solid uni's without zerk
The regular ( with grease zerk ) Spicer #5-178X
but verify that before you buy with the local auto parts guys catalog
DANA 36 vs DANA 44
The C-4 Dana 36 was the only axle available in 1984 Corvettes. In 1985, Chevrolet brought out the Dana 44 which was similar to the 80-82 Corvette axle, but not interchangeable. The Dana 44 axle is considerably stronger, but not indestructible. The Dana 36 and the Dana 44 (44's in some autos and all manuals) axles were used through 1996.
The Dana 44 is much larger than the D36. The 44 has a larger, "beefier" carrier/components to handle larger (lower) ring and pinions, and increased torque.
603967 GM 44 REAR 1980 CORVETTE
605172 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE
605180 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE
605220 GM 44 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE
605239 GM 36 REAR 1984-86 CORVETTE
605260 GM 36 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE
605321 GM 36 REAR 1988-90 CORVETTE
605322 GM 44 REAR 1989 1/2-90 CORVETTE
605365 GM 44 REAR 1988-89 CORVETTE
605417 GM 44 REAR 1990-90 1/2 CORVETTE
605490 GM 36 REAR 1990 1/2-96 1/2 CORVETTE
605491 GM 44 REAR 1990-96 1/2 CORVETTE
605492 GM 44 REAR 1990 1/2 CORVETTE
Look at the size difference, especially at the case above the yokes:
Dana 36
Dana 44
And visit
ikerds.com
Who were kind enough to supply the pics...
BTW if you experience a CLUNKING SOUND during shifting or going from forward to reverse ,that a VERY common indicator , FREQUENTLY showing your U-JOINTS are worn and need replacement, REPLACE ALL 6 because if ones worn they are ALL worn, IF you were closer ID say come on bye and we could change them out, it takes about 2 hours if you have the tools, youll need a PRESS, and 6 new u-joints, get the type without zerk fittings
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=80&p=5408#p5408
GOOD u-joints will cost about $20 each
if you don,t own a press ID suggest you buy one because most machine shops will charge you more than 1/2 the cost of a decent press to press out and press in 6 u-joints even if you bring them all three drive shafts
a chevy dealership will want easily double the cost you can do the job for, in labor alone, the press and u-joints should cost less than $250 and two hours work, you can easily sell the press and get back much of its cost or you can use a LARGE VISE and two large SOCKETS, if you have the right tools
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
BTW this jobs easily done on the car in any drive way if you have basic mechanics hand tools and 4 good jack stands and a decent floor jack, you don,t need a lift,
I prefer 4 12 ton jack stands but any decent jack stands will work for this job
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/slipyoke.aspx
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Tra ... 0yoke.html
TWISTED SPLINES
KEY OR INDEXED SPLINE
I know this is going to sound silly but I know guys with 30 years experience that still forget to flip the rear grease seal 180 when filling the damn guns ,then they act surprised when the guns leak grease all over the place,when stored, watch the video
Professional Series Lever Grease Gun
The heavy-duty, Professional Series Lever Grease Gun from LockNLube delivers more grease per stroke and more convenience than any lever gun in the world.
locknlube.com
Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with Whip Hose
this is a reasonable quality grease gun at a decent price
napa sells this one it looks identical to the one auto zone sells but it cost 2.5 times more
yeah I would strongly suggest this specific grease as its well known for durability in u-joints
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/4L60E_to_4L80E_Swap.htm
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Vie ... grease-gun
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-23-Piece-Ball-Joint-U-Joint-Service-Kit-648617/203120548?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-Garage-Automotive|&gclid=CM7-rI-e-tQCFUa4wAodcnEHfg&gclsrc=aw.ds
WHY pay a dealer or repair shop more than the parts and tools combined cost when you can own the tools and do the job yourself
I bought and use this press and so far ITS never had the slightest difficulty doing any of the jobs you listed and several more like U-joints
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/catalogs ... s&x=16&y=9
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p461_3r_series_u
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=3150&p=30189&hilit=shop+manual#p30189
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader8 ... joint.html
http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... _delivery/
http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-t ... placement/
this is cheap and slow
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335
below a better tool
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33497
* Free Shipping on Driver Safety Gear, orders over $100
*
* Pit Stop USA Gift Cards
How To Select A Racing Driveshaft
Courtesy of PST - Precision Shaft Technologies
Step 1: Identify Transmission
Chrysler – Dodge
* 727 - 30 Spline 1 11/16" Seal Diameter
* 904 - 26 Spline 1 9/16" Seal Diameter
Ford
* C6-T56 - 31 Spline 1 11/16" Seal Diameter
* AOD & C4 & T5 - 28 Spline 1 1/2" Seal Diameter
* 4 R 7OW - 28 Spline 1.598" Seal Diameter
General Motors
* T-350 700R4-4LLOE - 27 Spline 1 1/2" Seal Diameter
* T-400-4L80E - 32 Spline 1 7/8" Seal Diameter
Note: Transmission slip yokes are manufactured with various U-Joint Series. It is important to match Horsepower and Torque requirements to U-Joint Series. For aftermarket transmission applications usually a spline count and seal diameter will identify slip yoke required.
Step 2: Identify Rear U-Joint
PST Diagram D
If Pinion Yoke has Placement tabs that retain the U-Joint, measure inside tabs. See Diagram D.
PST Diagram E
If Pinion Yoke does not have Placement Tabs that retain U-Joint, measure from flat of yoke inside to inside. See Diagram E.
PST Diagram L
If 4 bolt Flange is used on pinion, measure Pilot Diameter and center to center diagonally bolt hole to bolt hole. See Diagram L.
Universal Joint Size. There are hundreds of U-Joint sizes or "Series" to accomodate many different applications of power and desired longevity for your automotive, 4x4 truck or auto racing requirements, these 4 series of joints cover most needs.
OEM Spicer uni's same as what came new
1350 series for halfshafts
Solid version ( no zerk fitting ) if you plan to drive hard
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-799xu-joint.aspx
or the greasable version
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-178xu-joint.aspx
1310 series for DS
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/5-153xu-joint.aspx
PST Diagram A
1310 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 7/32" length (Dim B - Diagram A) Certain Ford applications have 2 cups 1 1/8 Diameter. Appropriate horse power range is up to 500 in circle track or road racing, small tire drag racing and 4x4. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.
1330 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 5/8" length (Dim B - Diagram A) Certain Ford applications have 2 cups 1 1/8 Diameter. Slightly stronger than 1310, Used in 5.0 Mustangs. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.
3R Saginaw Series: 1 1/8" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) Retained with internal clip 2 5/8" (Dim B - Diagram A). Most common GM joint. Horse power range up to 700 in road racing and circle track. Solid drag racing U-Joint can accomodate most sportsman classes. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.
1350 Spicer Series: Manufactured with OEM tolerances and treated with our Cryogenic Process to yeild the strongest U-Joint available. For drag racing applications a solid non-lube design U-Joint is recommended because of the tremendous initial shock load, or short duration of high torque the joint must be able to withstand.
LOOK THRU THIS LINK
http://www.stevenemichael.com/RestoModC ... Joint.html
now that tool may cost $120 but it will usually cost close to that in labor alone to have a machine shop press out and in all 6 u-joints, and trust me if ones seriously worn ALL of them need replacement
the money saved on a single u-joint swap on a corvette will pay for the press
the local machine shop wanted $20 EACH just to press out and re-install the U-joints, with ME suppling the u-joints or $40 each if they supplied the u-joints, keep in mind thiers 6 u-joints in a corvette, two on the drive shaft and two on EACH half shaft, and if ones bad thru normal wear and mileage then the others have significant mileage on them and should be replaced at the same time
the press cost was $129 when I purchased mine several years ago, its far more than paid for itself since then, and its far easier to use than the screw thread hand held c-clamp type
heres helpfu info ,WITH PICTURES, read thru the links below, as theres Lots of good info
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/de ... -joint.asp
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/ ... hp?t=76752
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/no ... s/arms.asp
http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html
http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-ujoint.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html
first Ill point out that the U-joints made in china are JUNK, so get the AMERICAN MADE u-joints WITHOUT the grease nipples as that design is stronger
next , many machine shops charge $15-20 to remove and instal EACH u-joint with a press, thats 4 u-joints on the half shafts and two on the drive shaft (TOTAL 6) so it can EASILLY run you $90-120 in just labor IF YOU PULL THE SHAFTS and REINSTALL THEM (99% of the LABOR) and have a shop remove/reinstall the u-joints themselfs, thats INSANE if you are doing it on a regular basis, when you can buy a decent press for about the same cost as a single series of replacements
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33497
this is a differant year but most of the info applies
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005...nt/u-joint.asp
http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html
http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...ategoryid=X935
basically youll need a shop manual or similar instructions like the HAYNES manual,
you jack up the rear, place the frame on sturdy jack stands, remove the tires and youll need a long 1/4" extension with a universal and a 10mm socket to reach the straps retaining the u-joints on the inner ends and a shorter extention and box end wrench for the outer ends and the use of the floor jack to reduce the pressure on the rear suspension as you work on each side
BTW once you get familiar with the process you can replace ALL six u-joints in UNDER 4 hours, only need to do the 1/2 shafts, great youll complete that in under 2 hours with practice (WITHOUT AIR TOOLS) (under an hour WITH THEM)
btw
I THINK the u-joint part # for the dana 44 are
Spicer # 5-799X solid uni's without zerk
The regular ( with grease zerk ) Spicer #5-178X
but verify that before you buy with the local auto parts guys catalog
DANA 36 vs DANA 44
The C-4 Dana 36 was the only axle available in 1984 Corvettes. In 1985, Chevrolet brought out the Dana 44 which was similar to the 80-82 Corvette axle, but not interchangeable. The Dana 44 axle is considerably stronger, but not indestructible. The Dana 36 and the Dana 44 (44's in some autos and all manuals) axles were used through 1996.
The Dana 44 is much larger than the D36. The 44 has a larger, "beefier" carrier/components to handle larger (lower) ring and pinions, and increased torque.
603967 GM 44 REAR 1980 CORVETTE
605172 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE
605180 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE
605220 GM 44 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE
605239 GM 36 REAR 1984-86 CORVETTE
605260 GM 36 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE
605321 GM 36 REAR 1988-90 CORVETTE
605322 GM 44 REAR 1989 1/2-90 CORVETTE
605365 GM 44 REAR 1988-89 CORVETTE
605417 GM 44 REAR 1990-90 1/2 CORVETTE
605490 GM 36 REAR 1990 1/2-96 1/2 CORVETTE
605491 GM 44 REAR 1990-96 1/2 CORVETTE
605492 GM 44 REAR 1990 1/2 CORVETTE
Look at the size difference, especially at the case above the yokes:
Dana 36
Dana 44
And visit
ikerds.com
Who were kind enough to supply the pics...
BTW if you experience a CLUNKING SOUND during shifting or going from forward to reverse ,that a VERY common indicator , FREQUENTLY showing your U-JOINTS are worn and need replacement, REPLACE ALL 6 because if ones worn they are ALL worn, IF you were closer ID say come on bye and we could change them out, it takes about 2 hours if you have the tools, youll need a PRESS, and 6 new u-joints, get the type without zerk fittings
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=80&p=5408#p5408
GOOD u-joints will cost about $20 each
if you don,t own a press ID suggest you buy one because most machine shops will charge you more than 1/2 the cost of a decent press to press out and press in 6 u-joints even if you bring them all three drive shafts
a chevy dealership will want easily double the cost you can do the job for, in labor alone, the press and u-joints should cost less than $250 and two hours work, you can easily sell the press and get back much of its cost or you can use a LARGE VISE and two large SOCKETS, if you have the right tools
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
BTW this jobs easily done on the car in any drive way if you have basic mechanics hand tools and 4 good jack stands and a decent floor jack, you don,t need a lift,
I prefer 4 12 ton jack stands but any decent jack stands will work for this job
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=26
http://www.actionmachineinc.com/slipyoke.aspx
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Tra ... 0yoke.html
TWISTED SPLINES
KEY OR INDEXED SPLINE
Last edited by a moderator: