Unforgiven Project

Thunderbolt said:
Now on to something else, I have problems with belt slip with my 177 blower, if i ease in to throttle it makes boost, but if i mash the loud pedal (kickdown) it makes hardly no boost, how much tension do you have? My tensioner rest in the middle, seems ok?
its a 10 rib belt.
Click to expand...

Thunderbolt...... the 85-90 percent was using a 7" lower pulley along with a 2.85 upper pulley and the belt in the pic below.

That was the race engine set up.

IMG_1167.JPG

The replacement engine which is in the truck now uses the same belt and top pulley,
but I installed a 6" lower pulley.
The tension pin is at 50 percent on this combo. The pic below has a red arrow of
where the pin sits with an 7" lower pulley.

IMG_1166.JPG

The pic below are the log results of the backup engine...350 SBC 0.30 over.. stock cast iron 64cc chamber heads... 10.5:1 static compression...cam has .501/.501 lift.
Don't recall the duration, but it works for a back up.
No where near the power output of the race engine....but as Coty keeps reminding me...it still runs!

I highlighted the numbers in the left column . it shows what happened at the point where the WHITE crosshairs are on the right.
It was about 95 degrees with very high humidity ....Take note of the MAT....it only reached 101 degrees F at 7.6psig boost.

The afr's are on the e-85 scale

IMG_1168.JPG
 
Yes..

T-Test said:
Distributor shaft bounce could be the culprit as the rotor spins the hall effect plate that might have been loose or have a rough spot to hang on shaft.
Click to expand...

I thought the plate spun the rotor..and the shaft spun the hall effect plate?
Now I'am really confused.
The Hall effect is new to me...If what you say is true, then my whole theory is null and void.

Like I said before I am exploring every possible reason as to why the rotor broke "twice".

The second time I was thinking it was just because of the tab being plastic welded
back on... and chalked it up to "it was worth a shot" idea than did not work out.

Your idea would seem to fall in line with the hall effect being covered in surface rust
and may be binding.

All good input guys! We will solve this issue yet!
 
Kinda off topic but what do you guys think about that log....
That was the backup engine doing a test hit on a 300' track, that only had about 6"-12" of mud. (dry by our standards)
Truck weighs in roughly 7000lbs.
I thought it did surprisingly well...Again not as violent as my race engine ,but still a fun little engine.

log.JPG
 
There are two red lines across the top of the graph, which one is RPM and Fuel Flow ???

Is there a vertical scale ?
 
Rick... the colors around the boxes on the left represent the lines on the graph.
For example... the lighter redish color is fuel flow, the Darker blue line is boost, the light blue is the target AFR....

everything vertical on the WHITE crosshairs on that given line is represented on the left.
 
How the crosshairs work goes like this.... You see I set the crosshair on the darker BLUE line. this is cause I wanted to track the boost line.
I can now just use my left to right arrow keys and the crosshair will follow the path of squiggly line...The vertical White line will tell you
Everything else vertical at that point.

I just snapped a quick shot at the screen with my phone... I should have zoomed out a little bit more cause on the left there are (line display check boxes) . The lines you see on the left are the ones I had check on the left side.
I left some of them off.. It just clutters the screen.
 
Unforgiven said:
Rick... the colors around the boxes on the left represent the lines on the graph.
For example... the lighter redish color is fuel flow, the Darker blue line is boost,
Click to expand...
And then there is the legend across the top also, but .........

I've run into this problem with other graphs once you get more than 4-5 colors ..... You cannot tell the difference in those 2 red lines. It might be obvious to you looking at that in Full Screen on your computer, but shrink it down to your graphic above, take a photo and it gets much much harder.

I just don't see a vertical scale for the RPM or Fuel Flow value, see graphic below.


GraphValue.jpg
 
Good Morning Men.

Haven't been on in awhile. Hope everyone is doing well.

T... thats a neat looking truck.

I have been on 32 hours at work since this virus started so my truck is been sitting for awhile.
Been buckled down for the most part.
Whittled away on some loose ends on the "to do list" for the wife.

I think that I may pull Coty's engine from the truck today though.
It is starting to hit the freezing mark here at night so
it's time to start draining all the fluids anyway.
 
I had a talk with my employer today about our company life insurance policy.
I ask if I could get it in advance if I promised not to renig on it's contract.
He gave me a very puzzled look until I told him that if I did
not get home before the wife read the E-mail from Katech performance....
she would be the one cashing the insurance check tomorrow!
Call it a man's intuition.
 
Sorry guys... I deleted the political stuff on this thread. I would like to keep it pertaining to the engine.
I just did not know where to post my comment. Do not mean to suppress anyone,s views...
I have deleted my post also.
 
Anyway... I am starting the tear down tomorrow on the engine. I have contacted Total Seal, Diamond, and Katech.
I am sending block back to Kaytech for inspection and any machine work that needs to be done. They are working with Diamond
for my pistons, Diamond recommended a semi-custom nitrous piston for my application. They will have a top land of no less than .300
thick, and the rings will be 1mm. The top ring is going to be a Total Seal stainless/gapless. This is a major leap from the old 5/64 moly rings.
Callies will supply the new crank and rods. It will be all INTERNALLY balanced. This is another major upgrade.
Of coarse I will have to re-purchase a new balancer and flexplate. As for the old assembly... I still have the old original block
that was half filled, so I am going to install what I take out of the race motor and install it into that block. That engine will only be built to around 500HP
at the max.. and will be built for pump gas. (no blower)
For the new race engine...I am looking to upgrade the rockers from the aluminum Crane gold ..to the Comp ultra pro magnums.
The valve springs are about 5lbs. short of what Howards recommended.. I think it might be wise to upgrade them to a higher amount, given the fact that I am putting 10lbs boost on the valves. I am just trying to cover my bases...
Talking with Holley... I have determined that their 12-1800-2 pump will be more than enough to handle the fuel. I like the fact that I can wire it to only run on one pump...and have the second pump turn on under boost. This will help stop the heating of the fuel (so I have been told).
I was going to stroke and bore the Bowtie block out to 427....But Katech talked me out of it. For reliability they recommended to stay with the 3.75
stroke and replace the 5.7 rods with 6" rods. This will help with ring seal.
Anyway.. The best news is.... the wife did not consider cashing a check......YET.
 
I certainly could be wrong, but I think you only need stronger valve springs on the intake valves when using boost.
 
I'm not sure Rick...I seen comp cams has a "conical style spring. They are suppose to cancel out harmonics better (I think that's how I understood the article).
I am still doing my research on each spring before I decide which one is better for my application.
I won't be spinnig past 6500 RPM's so alot of the info might be moot. Don't want to spend more on something that is not
needed.
 
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