Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
So you are saying that this block was previously cracked in the lifter valley? Interesting fix.
So you are saying that this block was previously cracked in the lifter valley? Interesting fix.
When we were dirt track racing street stock its what we had to do often. Started off with a 369 ci stroker SBC. It had an offset ground forged crank 3-5/8" inch stroke. Served us well 2008-2010. The secret weapon was the Iskenderien full race oval track camshaft I chose. Wind out to 8500 rpms.Well..A couple of my buddies stopped by to see the progress on my truck. Being that our season starts in 40 days, They realize that my new motor build
is not going to be complete for this year. Koty made the suggestion that I take the components out of my block and have the crank reconditioned ,
then install them into a block that he is offering me to at least get me up and running for the season. It won't cost a whole hell of alot to do. I can then continue the new build with the Dart E85 motor and not have to have that feeling of being swayed into buying cheap parts for the build to get me up and running. I was hesitant on borrowing his block for fear of blowing it up ,but he stressed to me that if it did, I would only be required to buy the beer for the tear down.
That's how our group ROLLS! We help each other when and if we can.
I thought about it overnight, and I think I am going to take him up on it. I feel for under $1000 I can be up and running with the same power levels of last year and it won't really take away from the E85 build.
I would use a Forged crank to get out racing right away again.
You can not count on a nodular crank in a Chevy.
Severe flexing was taking place in your old engine.
Remember yesterday when I said the Hardest thing to do is stay on track with a project as a Racer Racing ! ?
Its all True.
I bought and used a Scat 9000 series nodular crank back around 2012 for my 1994 GMC suburban.That was a topic too... I can buy a scat 9000 for $259 but I still have to pay to have it balanced. The crank I have may be modular but it has been balanced with the rest of the assembly. Now that fact that it has been flexing may have thrown it off , and I may have to balance it again too . I am going to think about this for a week and listen to everyone then make a decision. There is not enough power to really buy a forged crank for this motor. balance is key
How much do you stand to loose if it blows up?
It might be a way to get the larger blower you want if the failure takes it out also.
He is a Racer.
Gotta get back out there.
Fall of 2019 is end of race season typical in central midwest USA.
He can not stand sitting around while his Buddies Go racing.
The most important criteria ...Well said! You understand
It would probably be a good idea Hardblock this engine.
Discussed a few days back.
Tradeoff is higher water temps street driving & way higher oil temps cruising.
Oil cooler of course can be used. Its a $500-1,000 more parts investment. No way to shortcut & have 100 % reliable for race use especially in Mud 4x4 racing.
Way around that is to use a superior Race oil . Street stock we used 40w straight oil. No oil cooler. water temps often 300 F with radiator plugged full with dirt & mud. It only took 1-2 laps & it was plugged. Unavoidable for all dirt tracking.
50W straight race oil used by real powerfull guys with 700-1000 hp.
What he said. Take your buddy up on the block. You are not going to be comfortable watching everyone else race.He is a Racer.
Gotta get back out there.
Fall of 2019 is end of race season typical in central midwest USA.
He can not stand sitting around while his Buddies Go racing.