well how many guys are working on truck based hot rods?

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

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over the years Ive found many guys that prefer to work on hot rod truck based cars because theres generally easier access to the suspension,drive train,fuel and electrical systems and the engine compartment and in many cases parts are cheaper and easier to locate at salvage yards than for roughly similar car based hot rods, because there less demand.
It also generally easier to temporarily remove a truck bed than to work in the confines of a cars trunk


http://www.ehow.com/how_2101681_cheap-h ... t-rod.html

http://www.tachedoutmag.com/2010/07/rat ... -tips.html
 
Me and a friend are working on a 83 k20 Its got one of the Goodrich crate motors and a SM465.
I am triing to talk him into a big block.
 
many trucks have the added advantage of large & spacious,easily accessed engine compartments and reasonably easy to remove front caps making a big block engine far easier to install than in many cars!
plus most trcks tend to have heavier frames stronger rear differentials and generally more area to work easily on the components making then almost a joy to work on compared to some sports cars where everything's packaged with absolute minimal access clearance.
as most guys in this hobby get older and wiser the concept of thinking things thru and making working on the project a bit easier seems to slowly sink in to many of our thought processes.
working on a separate week end toy, project car,vs our daily transportation, buying the more durable components,working on, ,T-buckets, kit cars,trucks and similar projects that allow easy component access,less cramped header and starter access,having an easy access to the fuel system, and using larger displacement engines so its easier to produce tire smoking power, become more popular , as we age and wise up!
having a decent place to work, some decent tools, a buddy with similar ideas, having some skills and having a removable rear bed and front cap makes working on many trucks far more enjoyable
 
Yes it is nice to be able to get under it with out getting out the jack and jack stands.
In reality this guy is not made of money so a big block is just a dream.
Although I do have a set of ZZ4 heads we where thinking about putting them on the Goodrich short block with a
.028 head gasket and a mild cam what do you all think?
I think with the granny gear in the sm465 it could be fun.
 
grumpyvette said:
could you list the components you used in the engine build and drive train?
Click to expand...

Sure...

350 4 bolt main block – 010 casting
Block was bored .030, align honed, decked to 9”
Clearanced for 3.75” stroke crankshaft
Scat rotating assembly - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-1-90555BI/
Stroker crank – 383 ci
I beam 6” rods with cap screws
SRP Forged pistons – domed with -14cc
Pistons are at zero deck – quench is set at .040”
Compression is at 12.43-1
Custom designed cam by UDHarold – Cut by Lunati
Solid Roller – 271/278 @ .050” .684/.684 lift with 1.5 rockers LSA 106° – installed 102°
Cloyes true dual roller timing chain set
Brodix Track 1 heads – non CNC version - http://www.brodix.com/heads/track1.php
221cc intake port size – 67cc chambers – 2.08” intake valves
Heads are stock except for gasket match to Fel Pro 1206 and Fel Pro 1406 gaskets
Crane stud girdle
Crane full roller 1.5 rocker arms
Comp cams pushrods
Holley Strip Dominator intake - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/
Intake was port matched to the heads
Pro Systems 950 carb - http://www.prosystemsracing.com/proseries4150.html
MSD Pro Billet distributor - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-85501/
Engine made the most power at 40° - locked
Mallory 685 ignition box - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-685/
MSD 8.8mm spark plug wires
NGK R5671A-8 spark plugs
Hedman Husler fender well headers - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-65853/
Pro Form electric water pump - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66225R/
Milodon oil pan – S10 swap – Milodon oil pump, pickup tube, and drive

Turbo 400 transmission – stock gear set
8" PTC converter, stalls at 5300 rpm against the brake - http://www.ptcrace.com/torque-converter ... c6226be511
JW Ultra bell housing
Aluminum transmission shield
Reverse manual valve body with trans-brake
B&M Pro Ratchet shifter - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-80842/

9” Ford rear cut to stock S-10 width
4.86 gears
Spool
31 spline axles

M&H 29.5”x9” stiff slicks with tubes
15” x 10” wheels
VW size front tires (going with true front runners this season)
15” x 3.5” wheels

I think that's everything. If anyone has questions, feel free to ask.


Jeff
 
anytime your running mid 10s with a sbc thats impressive and your obviously doing things correctly,
Ive built several very similar engine combos over the years for track cars, and had them run mid 10 second times, but Ive always selected a bit milder cam duration,and an 850 cfm carb, and a 4.56 rear gear ratio,(RARELY over 260 degrees on the cams intake )
like this
http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.p ... il&p=24569

a 29.5" tire with 4.56 rear gears in most combos with a th400 will get you to about 130mph or so in the lights
so Im wondering what your launch rpm is, what the truck weights, and rpms your running thru the lights, Ive always tried to limit the max rpms to about 6800rpm on a 383 sbc with a solid roller to hopefully avoid valve control , and durability issues
 
grumpyvette said:
anytime your running mid 10s with a sbc thats impressive and your obviously doing things correctly,
Ive built several very similar engine combos over the years for track cars, and had them run mid 10 second times, but Ive always selected a bit milder cam duration,and an 850 cfm carb, and a 4.56 rear gear ratio,(RARELY over 260 degrees on the cams intake )
so Im wondering what your launch rpm is, what the truck weights, and rpms your running thru the lights, Ive always tried to limit the max rpms to about 6800rpm on a 383 sbc with a solid roller to hopefully avoid valve control , and durability issues
Click to expand...

Thanks...

The rear axle was in the truck when I bought it. The guy was running 28' tall slicks on a 1/8 mile track.
I forgot about my converter... it is a 8" PTC converter, stalls at 5300 rpm against the brake.
http://www.ptcrace.com/torque-converter ... c6226be511

I was running the 2 step at 3300 rpm. My truck weighed in at 2920 lbs with me in it ready to race. I dropped some weight this winter with some modification. I should be about 2875 now, but I'll know for sure once I get it on the scale. The engine makes peak HP at 6600-6800 rpm - only a 1 HP difference thru that range... drops off by 7 HP at 7100 rpm. I wanted to go thru the traps at about 500 rpm over peak... right now it traps right at 7200 rpm.

Last season the truck had newer stock gas shocks of the front with a set of cut down F-body springs - waaaay too stiff.
I installed a new QA1 race coil -over setup on the front with adjustable shocks.
http://qa1.thomasnet.com/item/sports-dr ... lpver=1001
I also went with tubular upper control arms, AFCO low friction ball joints in all 4 spots.
I installed steel greasable control arm bushings in all spots - the control arms were so tight you had to use 2 hands to move them with nothing hooked up to them. Now they pivot under their own weight.

I run modified stock rear springs (only two leaves per side instead of 4). Cal-Trac's and Rancho adjustable shocks.

The rear spring shackles were so tight I had to use a 3' pry bar to move it with the front of the spring unbolted and hanging.

I'm still going to run the same springs, but installing free moving bushings in all spots so it can transfer weight better. I also sold the Cal-Trac's and should be getting a new set of bars in the next week or so that will work better.

When the track is good it was pulling the left front tire about a foot, but the right front was only coming up about 1//2 that distance. Too much twist.

I bought a A.R.T. Professional series ARB that will be installed this spring to get it to leave better - their site is down right now... sorry.

I also just ordered a fresh air intake system for the truck. UPS shows it to be here tomorrow.


Jeff
 
that mostly explained the difference, I usually suggest a 4500rpm stall converter and try hard to get the track car weights to about 2800 lbs max if I can, (fiberglass hood,small fuel cell, minimal interior, solid roll cage,thin aluminum interior, 4 link or caltracs, etc) obviously you know the drill)



HERES A COUPLE PICTURES YOU MAY FIND INTERESTING
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trucksus2.jpg
 
grumpyvette said:
that mostly explained the difference, I usually suggest a 4500rpm stall converter and try hard to get the track car weights to about 2800 lbs max if I can, (fiberglass hood,small fuel cell, minimal interior, solid roll cage,thin aluminum interior, 4 link or caltracs, etc) obviously you know the drill)
Click to expand...

Yep... I do know the drill. :cool:

I'm running pretty much as light as I can afford to right now. The 12 point CM cage (8.50 certified) added weight, but the wife insisted I install one if I wanted to race. I checked the weight on 1 front tire and wheel last week... 30.8 lbs! Gonna have to spring for some front runners to cut some weight, and increase safety. Hard to believe that they charge so much for such a small tire? Almost as much as my slicks.

I have a 10 gallon cell... it was in the truck, interior is gutted except for door panels. The new rear bars I ordered are made with billet aluminum instead of steel... should drop a little weight.

I'm thinking of removing the tailgate to drop a little more weight... it's almost 35 lbs! I want low 10's - can't afford to run in the 9's with the extra safety equipment needed. My friends are trying to talk me into throwing some nitrous at it... :roll: Not gonna happen, plus I'd only be able to run 1/8 mile with my gearing and nitrous.

Jeff
 
grumpyvette said:
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Click to expand...
I love this one. Very clean. No aspirations to rat-dom...just a nice ride. :D

Dunno if you can count later-model stuff as "hot rods" but I transplanted a '96 Vortec 7.4 into a formerly-6.5TD '94 3500HD; it scoots down the road pretty well -
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My "daily driver" is a '94 C2500LD but the engine is still a basically stock 5.7. Dreams would include stuffing a Vortec 8.1 in there. :D
rh94_58s.jpg


Richard
 
This is my daily driver, 58 Chevy stepside pro streeter, A-body front frame clip/suspension, th400, mild build 502, 9" rear, 3.50 detroit locker, put it on the road in '98:

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Tubular a-arms up front w coil-overs, leafs with slappers in back, modified back frame, narrowed and raised to get the low stance, disk brakes all round...

58inthegrass2.jpg


Had to put in a subframe under the bed w nitrogen struts, only way to get those tires off....

2Loose%20Fatsos%202%20sm.JPG


Spent a lot of time cleaning up the home for the motor, 502 short block I set up with
Edelbrock heads, Performer rpm intake, Holley 750 vacuum secondary, and a fairly mild Comp Cams hydraulic roller....
But it has just enough of a rough idle to "sound right"....

2Loose%20Engine%20sm.JPG


Sometimes I run steelies with spiders instead of the torque thrusts....

redsteelies1.jpg


I love this truck, and have the room for hauling lots of tools around as needed.
It's not fast, but I do race it at our local track in the 12.90 heads up class.
Willy

link to my webpage on this truck
 
2Loose,
That is looking good! A truck will probably be my next and final project. Looking for a '67-'69 Chevy short box. My best friend had a '67 for 15 +years, so I have a soft spot for those.
Will have to wait a bit as I am looking to move home and business across the country... :shock:
Gary
 
I Love Red !

Is the flat red on the wheels any easier or harder to take care of than glossy paint ?
 
Here are a couple of updated pictures of my truck from a couple weeks ago at Beech Bend Raceway in Bowling Green Kentucky. We had the 3rd annual S10 Super Nationals. We rented the track for the day doing T&T in the morning, and 1/8 and 1/4 racing in the afternoon. I managed to take first place in the 1/4 mile division. I haven't really changed anything except for installing the ARB, and changing over to Hoosier 29x9 slicks and 26x4.5 front runners... both on different wheels.


3rdannualS10meet.jpg



launch.jpg



5-18-thru5-19-2012034.jpg



Jeff
 
Indycars said:
Very nice 406Shark! What kind of times did you turn???
Click to expand...


Thanks...

During T&T I was running in the 10.40's.

We were running brackets, so I dialed in at a 10.50 cause the track was not in the best condition. They had a diesel drag race the night before. The track was pretty slick compared to past trips down there. Not to mention it was extremely hot... in the 90's. My 60' times were a little over a tenth slow, even after adjusting the suspension to compensate. My truck tends to be pretty consistent. I was pulling the front tires while spinning the slicks... they would carry out about 6-10 foot, then the slicks would spin enough to drop the nose, then the front would start to come up again, then spin and drop the nose and go down the track. Definitely not the quickest way down the track. I've got some work to do on my rear suspension.


Jeff
 
Indycars said:
I Love Red !

Is the flat red on the wheels any easier or harder to take care of than glossy paint ?
Click to expand...

Hi Rick,
Sorry I missed your comment until just now....

There were a few small "runs" in the wheel paint so I just sanded 'em smooth and left it "flat" looking. I kinda like the contrast with the gloss on the truck. No difference that I can see on cleaning/maintenance.

I also have a set of Torque Thrust II wheels for this truck, go back and forth depending on "whatever".....
That's a whole nother story, as I originally was running other rims that started cracking and breaking, had two different failures out on the road with those other wheels, luckily at slow speeds both times, minimal damage to the truck....

I was finally offered my choice of new wheels for the truck and chose the TT-II rims. Like them very much.
 
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