wheel studs and replacement

[grumpyvette]

many guys damage threads on Wheel studs thru careless cross threading them during assembly or forgetting to use a bit of oil or grease on the studs threads so they rust, because they forget to place a finger tip worth of moly axle grease on the lug threads before they get installed to prevent both corrosion and cross threading problems, which are easily avoided if you finger start the locking bolts on the studs several full revolutions before you use anything like air tools and ease the threads onto the stud by hand , rather than trying to start them on the threads with an air ratchet

harbor freight sells a cheap torque multiplier, if you find the nuts are hard to remove, and using an air tool to start and seat the lug nuts is frequently a great way to screw up the stud threads.

http://www.harborfreight.com/torque-mul ... 93645.html

you may want to read this thread, and MANY RACING ASSOCIATIONS REQUIRE 5/8" DIAM. wheel studs and wheel lock nuts that allow the studs to protrude, or extend thru the nuts

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showt ... id/209918/
but the picture SHOWS THE WRONG REPLACEMENT AXLE STUDS, the correct axle studs will have the splined portion thats pulled into the flange be only a few thousandths of an inch larger in diam. than the hole in the flange they are drawn into, obviously smaller than the pictures.
parts store morons, will frequently tell you to just press in or use a lug nut to draw in the wrong studs, that will in most cases result in either a stripped stud or cracked axle flange , use a caliper and measure the studs and holes they are going into the correct interference fit is rarely more than a few thousands difference in size

read these related links

http://www.ehow.com/how_4686767_replace ... studs.html

http://www.classiccarauto.com/impala/ho ... stud.shtml

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/torquing-lug-nuts.15409/#post-90716

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-36.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_4508393_replace ... vette.html

http://www.mfavp.com/wheelstud/index.htm

these three pictures above show an obviously incorrect wheel stud , for the application, which is far too large in splined diam. section to be correctly installed in the wheel/axle flange

http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityou ... d_repl.htm

use the correct size replacement stud, they should extend to the outer end of the lug nut, or slightly beyond

drive out the old stud

insert the new replacement stud

A stack of washers can be used in some cases to allow the lug nut to draw in , and seat the new stud, in the axle flange

 

[Grumpy]

heres a good demonstration of why you should use larger than stock OEM 5/8" NASCAR high strength ARP wheel studs, of what ever type matches your particular applications needs with the whheels your using on a car you race
like these below

 

[87vette81big]

Wheel studs are overlooked by all Grumpy unless they are Veteran racers.
Aftermarket axles usually have Wheel Studs supplied or installed.
Meet NHRA Rules.

ARP Likely the Best made for wheel studs.
I have only used them for Dirt Track Racing.
5/8" diameter .
Believe it or not anything less will bend and snap in half.
Dirt tracks get that rough by end of evening in Main Feature Races.

 

[NOT A TA]

Here's the setup I use for swapping wheel studs. Special jig for drill press to get the studs nice and straight.. I use ARP's also. Step up in bit size enlarging holes. They usually want 9-10 thou interference. My Moser axles in pics below.

 

[Indycars]

What about the wheels do their holes need to be enlarged if the studs are larger diameter?

 

[Grumpy]

"What about the wheels do their holes need to be enlarged ?"

yes that is frequently a required modification, required with the larger diam. studs
luckily most wheels , and axle flanges can easily be drilled to the slightly larger diam. without structural problems.
again a good reason to own a drill press or milling machine and hydraulic press

 

[Grumpy]

heres some pictures you might find interesting, I found posted, that I've seen happen a few times,
it involves assembly of parts that fit and function that were never meant to be, assembled and used together.
most people know that rear disc brake rotors (not calipers) on some cars are centered on a small extension of the axle flange,or wheel bearing housing, just like many wheels are.
look at the axles below, theres an extended center section that sticks out about 3/8"-1/2" past the outer surface the wheel lug studs flange surface.

the two axles above have not yet had the wheel studs installed nor the disck brake rotor hat laid over the axle flange

the disc brake hat is slipped on over the wheel studs , centered on the bearing hub extension ,and the wheel is installed over the studs and the lug nuts tightened, this compresses the trapped wheel and brake rotor locking both in place as the lug nuts are tightened on the studs

notice the wheel studs sheared off the axle below and the lack of a bearing hub flange extension to allow the brake rotor to center on below

notice the axle flange below has the centering hub extension

look closely the inner diameter hole in the disc brake hat BELOW is significantly larger in diameter and does not center on the axle hub, as its obviously larger than required, THIS WAS DONE TO SAVE COST to allow it to fit over several DIFFERENT bearing hub diameters (COMMON ON CHEAPER GENERIC LOWER QUALITY PARTS) and there's obviously oval slots in that disc brake rotor hat that will allow it to be fitted to a different, smaller or larger wheel stud pattern,

the result of the extra clearance in a UNIVERSAL FIT PART, is that its got a good deal more clearance than required and no center support so when this guys car with decent traction and respectable torque repeatedly power braked all the stress was directly impacting the wheel studs, the repeated stress eventually sheared the studs

notice this allows the wheel , that is not centered on the extended bearing hub ,to rotate with the axle but not on the axle center line, just like the disc brake hat,thus the wheels seconds from coming off.

GET THE CORRECT COMPONENTS AND THINK ABOUT WHAT YOUR BUILDING AND THE STRESS ITS UNDER, UNIVERSAL FIT DRIVE LINE COMPONENTS MAY BE LESS EXPENSIVE IN UP FRONT COST, BUT FAR MORE EXPENSIVE WHEN THEY FAIL WHICH IS A VERY OBVIOUS POTENTIAL ISSUE WHEN YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR LOOKING AT

 

[Grumpy]

I just got through helping out the neighbors son, he brought over his project road runner and asked me for help,
getting the wheels off as the first two wheel studs broke off when he tried, to remove the wheels.
we eventually had to make a trip to the local auto parts store and pick up about a dozen new wheel studs,
(all they had in stock and ordered 9 more (due in tomorrow)
from what I can see the wheel lug nuts were installed with an air ratchet set on KILL!
and he said the wheels he had came with the car, and had not been off in at least 12 years since he bought the car!
all the threads were rusted and most looked partly cross threaded.
I guess the concept of using anti -seize or grease on the wheel stud threads and a torque wrench was never considered by the previous owner or shop that worked on the car.
using anti-seize paste on bolt or stud threads helps prevent future problems

keep shop rags and solvent handy,

 

[Grumpy]

http://www.myboltpattern.com/bolt-pattern-guide/

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-...rn-Cross-Reference-Database.asp#axzz4mwprSBB2

http://www.autoanything.com/wheels-rims/wheel-bolt-pattern-guide

https://www.honestcharley.com/blog/honest-bloggin/a-hot-rodders-guide-to-wheel-bolt-pattern/

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/wheel-bolt-pattern/28804

Bolt Pattern
(Lea en español)

Conversion Table
Inches Millimeters
4 x 3.93 4 x 100
4 x 4.25 4 x 107.95
4 x 4.33 4 x 110
4 x 4.50 4 x 114.3
4 x 5.12 4 x 130
4 x 5.51 4 x 140
5 x 4.00 5 x 100
5 x 4.25 5 x 107.95
5 x 4.50 5 x 114.3
5 x 4.53 5 x 115
5 x 4.72 5 x 120
5 x 4.75 5 x 120.65
5 x 5.12 5 x 130
Bolt pattern or bolt circle is the diameter of an imaginary circle formed by the centers of the wheel lugs. Bolt patterns can be 4-, 5-, 6-, or 8-lug holes. A bolt circle of 4x100 would indicate a 4-lug pattern on a circle with a diameter of 100mm.

The diagram (upper, left) indicates the proper measuring methods. 6-lug wheels are measured like 4-lug wheels.

"Bolt pattern or bolt circle is the diameter of an imaginary circle formed by the centers of the wheel lugs."

Note: When measuring a 5-lug wheel the measurement is only an estimate unless accurately measured using a bolt pattern gauge. A bolt pattern gauge is a specialty tool and is not widely available. To ensure the proper fitment of 5-lug wheels, Tire Rack's fitment specialists have the exact bolt pattern information for all vehicles and review the information before listing a wheel as an exact fit for that vehicle in search results. When selecting wheels by vehicle, only wheels that will be a proper fit for the vehicle selected are shown.

 

[Grumpy]

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performa...MIls-Y-KWQ1QIVCZV-Ch2uGAn1EAQYAiABEgJ-VfD_BwE

cheap and easy for 5 lug
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessorie...MIls-Y-KWQ1QIVCZV-Ch2uGAn1EAQYBCABEgJmf_D_BwE

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Topline-...43835&wl11=online&wl12=49347210&wl13=&veh=sem

much more universal and useful tool that makes measuring correctly much more precise,
remember that the wheel mount pad area is usually recessed, enough,
so use of a ruler or caliper is far from easy to do correctly,
due to clearance issues with the tool and rim
the tool cost is low enough to make its purchase price is insignificant,
VS having one available in your tool chest,
for use to determine the correct measurements.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LMF67?psc=1

Works with Most 4, 5, 6 and 8 lug Wheels, Provides Inch and Metric Dimensions
4-Lug: 4X98, 4X100, 4X108, 4X120, 4X130, 4X140, 4X4.5"
5-Lug: 5x100, 5x108, 5x112, 5x115, 5x130, 5x135, 5x150, 5x4.5", 5x4.75", 5x5.0", 5x5.5"
6-Lug: 6x135, 6x4.5", 6x5.0", 6x5.5"
8-Lug: 8x170, 8x6.5"


http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80850/10002/-1

https://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/326/326-wheelnuttorquespecs.pdf

 

[Grumpy]

I recently was asked to help change a flat tire on one of the cars a neighbors wife owns,
as he is working late and won,t be home for several hours
getting the lug nuts loose required a 24" breaker bar,
some clueless numb nut with an impact gun ,
had obviously run them down hard.
I suggested she have her husband replace the wheel studs,
when he gets a chance as the threads are badly rusted.
when I went to remount the tire and wheel,
I put a finger tip of moly grease on each wheel stud thread,
and some on the internal lug nut threads.
this helped installation of the lug nuts and wheel a great deal,
and I snugged the lug nuts with a torque wrench set at 120 ft lbs
as that will be ok until the wheel studs are replaced (hopefully over the weekend)
I checked with the local NAPA and they have plenty in stock and its hardly a difficult or expensive repair.
his wife hardly mechanically gifted nor does she have access to tools or a jack
and its about 96f in the shade this afternoon.
once I had the tools fixing the flat and replacing the wheel on the car was about a 15- 16 minute deal.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-tire-related-info-gentlemen.7375/#post-24948

https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...VBL7ACh33Rg25EAQYBSABEgJh-PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds