sure! Id be glad too!
first theres a few terms, or concepts, from what Ive seen in the field, anything from a 257 roberts up to a 458 Lott, in a rifle caliber can produce 100% leathal results on elk and mule deer with a single well placed shot, made by a guy that understands the rifles range limitations, trajectory, and the games anatomy.
that in no way suggests that there are not obvious advantages or limitations to some choices.
From what Ive seen , Id suggest the 270 win, or 308 win loaded with a good quality bullet is a good lower start point, if recoil is a consideration, and while Ive used and seen used the larger 45 caliber rifles they generally are a trade off where you sacrifice some range or flat trajectory for increased projectile weight.
Ive never yet shot any deer with a 340 wby, and sako 375H&H, that did not give instant and obviouly major indications it was mortally hit!
now confidence in youe equipment is a huge factor in your success, and I personally was not impressed with my 30/06 , it was 100% effective and leathal, but it took awhile for the damage it did even with well placed shots to take effect.
being young and in-experienced I was under the impression that a well hit elk should just pitch over, when hit or at least act like it was not late for an appointment in the next county when it was hit.
every hunt , ranges, angles and every game animal differs, I found I had complete confidence in those two rifles , you might find you have different results, thats fine!
my late hunting partner on over a dozen trips constantly used a 358 win and made fun of my (CANNONS) he killed about 16 elk over a 35 year hunting career , so obviously the 358 win BLR worked for him.
most of the older guys in my elk hunt club use a 30/06 or 35 whelen, or a 358 win,the area we have hunted for decades has rugged, steep canyons and dark timber ranges seldom exceed 250 yards, that obviously has some effect on our groups rifle and caliber choices, because the last thing you want is to shoot the trophy of a life time, and have it live and remain mobile long enough, too run a 1/4 mile down into some steep canyon after its hit , leaving you with a couple hours of extra steep back pack terrain to cover after retrieving his carcass.
a rifle that penetrates well, hits hard and exits, and leaves a significant and short blood trail, is preferable,especially if you understand elk anatomy, and the terrain they live in.
canyon country is frequently inter-spaced between slopes thus youll generally be forced to cross a few of these rapidly flowing streams , some are easily forded, some a respectable barrier, and you can bet your last dollar the elk will know where few hunters will bother to access.
this is what much of elk hunting areas look like
this is what THE FAIRLY RARE OPEN AREAS of elk hunting canyons look like, logging road access to some previous clear cuts ??
I can tell you that I've found shot placement ,
and the projectile you select ,
is far more critical than the info stamped on the brass case heads,.
its your physical condition, your ability to spend the time and effort,
to hunt as long and as hard as required, your persistence,
your ability to get into range and place your shots precisely that the key.
I've spent a respectable amount of time hunting deer and elk,
I've used a,
30/06,(190 grain)
270 win,(150 grain
35 whelen,(250 grain)
338 win,(225 grain)
45/70,(405 grain)
340 wby,(250 grain)
358 win (250 grain)
375 H&H,(270 grain)
and a 458 win,(405 grain)
on several hunts.
if you place your shots well,
know the games anatomy ,
and use reasonably heavy for caliber bullets...
.they all worked, and all produced lethal wounds,
and dead deer/ and elk.
you can spend a good deal of time and effort sorting out, or worrying about your rifle and ammo,
but from the results I've seen, if you just select the most accurate and largest caliber rifle,
and select,decent ammo, that your confident in, using
that you feel comfortable with, and understand the games anatomy you'll do reasonably well.
personally I think the two best are the 340 wby and the 375 H&H, but they have all worked.
running stairs frequently with a 40 lb back pack,
and practice at the local range , shooting from field positions ,
not shooting off the bench rest ,
will do you a lot more good than worrying about whats stamped on those brass cartridge cases
I sight all my big game rifles in so you aim at the yellow dot and the bullet impacts cover the red dot
anytime you feel youve become a great shot, try to place two rapid shots in a 2" dot from a rapidly acquired field position, after walking the 100 yards back to your shooting location from the target after a brisk walk in under 10 seconds, from 100 yards
Ive done it occasionally tried it hundreds of times, it takes constant repetition to do well.
a few tips
you want to remain safe comfortable and dry, you want to find game and easily transport it once its down,
a decent wide brim hat treated with water repel-ant spray, to keep rain and snow out of your eyes or running down the back of your neck and sun out of your eyes sure helps
(one of the most over-looked clothing items)
as does having a comfortable light weight back-pack to transport game meat, and a poncho to keep you drier in heavy rain or snow.
comfortable insulated boots with good ankle support and an aggressive tread are nearly mandatory
this is a darn good value in a skinning and dressing game knife
a jacket and or vest that can be stored in your back pack for sudden temp swings helps a great deal
a decent rifle bi-pod aids accuracy
related info
http://www.weatherby.com/products/rifles.html/
http://www.realguns.com/loads/378weatherby.htm
http://www.realguns.com/loads/375.htm
http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm
http://www.realguns.com/articles/633.htm
http://www.sako.fi/rifles#rifles
http://www.grumpysperformance.com/sako375man.jpg
https://elknetwork.com/5days/?utm_medium=notification&utm_source=popup
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