working from a rented shop and want a welder/compresssor

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
Ok lets say,youve rented a garage, or storage space to work on your car while your garage is being built!
youve got access to electricity but not the correct outlets..
the correct route is to have a qualified electrician add a sub panel , installation, of which allows extra places to add extra breakers, naturally that has limits due too the total potential draw rates,the feed amps, wire gauges, permits,and local laws. (BUT the land lords very unlikely to allow that)

THE correct answer in YOUR case is to buy a portable welder/generator,(and mount it on a small trailer, possiably with a compressor) that allows you to weld or power a portable compressor, I had the exact same problem at one time, heres the solution, it allows both ARC and TIG (with an optional equipment package) and supplied both 110VOLT and 220 VOLT feeds

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K1419-5

heres a smaller cheaper option, (that includes a mig welder and small trailer)

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2 ... ode=907345

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=72

viewtopic.php?f=60&t=69

Ok Ill assume your looking into purchaseing or already have purchased your first DECENT SHOP welder, something like a 220 volt 180-350 amp range, in a ARC,MIG, or TIG and in most cases it both HEAVY and doesn,t come with a cart, so youll need one, so it makes an easy and necessary first project
example ,
the three main welders in my shop
MY LINCOLN ARC welder weights 630LBS
THE MILLER TIG weights 930lbs
the MILLER MIG is a newer model and weights only about 200lbs \
ALL WITHOUT the argon tank(thats easily 180lbs extra)


YOUR BOUND TO HAVE A STEEL SUPPLY STORE NEAR YOU, THEY WILL GENERALLY CUT THE STEEL TO LENGTH FOR MINIMAL COST, IF you PAY extra and know the lenghts and type of steel, since cutting steel can be a P.I.T.A. without the correct tools ID strongly advise useing thier services as they are far more likely to get it correct on the first try,
measure the welder base add about 3/4" for clearance in width and 10" extra length ,
EXAMPLE ,
lets say the welder measures 24" bye 40" (your cart would be 24.375" bye 50" so youll want two 50" sections of 3" angle and two 24.375 sections of 3" angle in this example and 5 sections of 1" box 24.375" long)and use that as the cart width,& length,
youll of course use the real dim. of your welder)
Id suggest using 3" angle iron as its both easy to weld and nearly indestructable in use, lay the angle iron on the concrete floor , on top of a sheet of junk plywood ,to tack weld with one edge flat, (THE EDGE youve had cut at a 45 degee angle) and one edge strait up an the two long edges parrallel, have the supplier cut two that width ,they weld the same way with the edge up placed inside the two sides so theres a rough 3" corner seam on each corner, and a 3" lip all the way around, USE A CARPENERS SQUARE and CHECK the 90 DEGREE CORNER STRAITNESS BEFORE DOING MORE THAN TACK WELDING, once its strait and level and tack welded move it to the welding bench or place it on a sheet of expendable plywood as you don,t want to be welding dirrectly on concrete as it bioth chips and stains if you do) youll want the corners cut at 45 degrees, so the inside flat on the floor sides shorter and the outside vertical edge is longer ,so they form a large rectangular pan with no center, but a lip thats 3" all the way around to set the welder on, buy five sections of 1" box steel the same width and weld those parralel to the front and back edge on the bottom base and the second of each pair about 3" in towards the middle but parralel, too the ends to weld the four SWIVEL caster wheels on the base too, (use at least 350-500 lb rated swivel casters so you can easily move the welder in the shop, and bolting the casters to the drilled 1" box before welding is not a bad idea here) this prevents flexing, weld the fifth 1" box steel ,vertical and weld a strap to keep the tank steady if you have an argon tank, if not the extra length can be used to store supplies......BTW some guys drop a piece of 3/4" plywood in to form a floor for the welder to sit on, (not a bad idea) QUESTIONS?
BTW 1/4-3/8" thick 3" angle iron is fairly hard to screw up with bad welds and a good place to practice your first welds on those 45 degree corner seams, the 4 parrelel box steel cross braces the casters mount too further increase the stiffness and strength, when youve finnished you can paint the cart and youll have learned a good deal about how your welder works....btw most welders come with instructions as to hooking up the ground clamps, type of sticks, or wire and settings so read the instructions BEFORE STARTING AND DON,T EXPECT TO GET IT 100% CORRECT ON THE FIRST TRY
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if you can,t smoke the tires from a 60mph rolling start your engine needs work!
looking to buy a used welder?
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BTW, if your looking to buy a welder ID strongly advise taking a course on welding FIRST so you understand what your looking at and what to expect and so you have a good feel for what your looking to do and what equipment is necessary,then stop by a few large welding shops and ask the owner if hes ever considered upgrading his equipment? stop by a few welder dealers and ask about trade ins.?
most will jump at the chance to unload older equipment if given a reasonable offer, the TRICK is knowing EXACTLY what your looking at, having a good idea as to age and condition and value and getting a DEAL, Id generally avoid anything priced higher than 1/2-1/3 of current retail.
http://www.welders-direct.com/
https://weldingsupply.securesites.co...ogs.pl?UNDEF::
but be fair! include all the accessories in the bid!
look around your local area for the guy or guys that do welder repairs, they can very often get you a decent deal on a used welder or point you to someone whos looking to upgrade thier current equipment that you might be able to make a good deal for on thier older equipment.
just stick to name brands , and ID STRONGLY ADVISE STICKING TO WELDERS that REQUIRE a 220volt single phase electrical feed
lincoln
miller
ESAB
HOBART
HTP
THERMADYNE
because having access to parts and service and manuals is MANDATORY
if you do buy equipment thats USED ask for a demonatration on BOTH the thin sheet metal like patching a fender and exhaust pipes and thicker 1/4-3/8" thick stuff

DON,t forget the welder requires a MATCHED electrical feed in your garage and it may require a tank of shield gas and may require accessories or longer cords, and consumables like wire for MIG units or sticks of filler rod for stick or tig welders, all those things add up fast!
 
heres an old post that cover much of the info, LOOK THRU THE LINKS
a decent arc or stick welder will do a good deal of whats likely to need welding, an oxyacetolene torch is versital, a mig is really easy to master and a good tig will handle about anything you can name plus aluminum

http://www.twi.co.uk/j32k/protected/band_3/jk6.html
TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas Welding)
tig.jpg


http://www.metacafe.com/watch/795776/ti ... ng_basics/

http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/te ... /TIG_tips/
basically youve got a controlable electric arc in a gas shield that you use similar to a oxy-acetolene flame to melt the material and feed a rod of similar material to flow and join the peices
This process is the toughest to learn. The electrode is composed of Tungsten, and a current is flowed through it controlled by either a foot pedal, a hand switch, or a fixed current on the machine itself. I am learning TIG using a foot pedal, the more you press down on the metal, the more amps you get. Once you get enough current flowing to get an appropriate sized weld pool, you start dabbing a filler metal into the puddle as you move the electrode further down the work piece. TIG allows you a great amount of control because you regulate how much current the electrode gets and how much filler metal the weld pool gets. This process is very slow compared to the other types though. in my opinion its by far the best process simply because you can CONTROL BOTH THE HEAT POLARITY AND MATERIAL FEED CONSTANTLY MAKING ADJUSTMENTS IN BOTH SHOULD YOU CHOOSE
MIG - (Metal Inert Gas)
http://www.twi.co.uk/j32k/protected/band_3/jk4.html
jk41.gif

migwelding1.jpg


MIG is the easiest process of welding. A feeding gun is used to feed a spool of filler metal wire into the weld pool. in effect you feed a charged wire into the weld are where it melts on contact due to the current arc ,Current is usually switched on and off by means of a trigger on the gun. Amps are usually controlled by a dial on the MIG machine itself, meaning that you cannot adjust current in the middle of welding. Though, with some machine you are able to get a foot pedal to control Amps while welding.the better machines allow you to vary the speed of the wire feed but you set the electrical energy (heat with a dial), its extremely fast and simple to use but your basicall shooting molten wire into the area to be welded.
Arc Welding (stick)
image017.jpg

Arc welding is mostly used in industrial applications. An electrode is used to strike an arc, the electrode then melts away to deposit metal into the weld pool. The electrode is coated with a variety of different materials which are used to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated.
TIG and non-flux-cored MIG both use a variety of different shielding gases to help keep the weld pool from being contaminated depending on what metal is being welding

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Ive got 4 welders in my shop, the MILLER 330 amp TIG, I have uses ARGON.
but ID bet 70% of the welding get done with my lincoln arc welder, (like this below)

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=K1419-4

ive got a LINCOLN MIG and a HOBART 210 amp also (soon to be replaced with a MILER 252 MIG)

example of how handy it is to have around, I welded up a heavy duty cart for the tig welder to hold the well over 700lbs and the tank of argon , total cost was less than $40 in steel and (4) $12 ...500 lb rated... 8" swivel roller wheels, the factory option cart was over $200
I saved at least $100 PLUS its a much better built cart


http://www.metalmeet.com/

http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/

http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3


http://www.htpweld.com/

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/
 
IF your looking for a decent arc welder AND an emergency power back -up for the shop?,that naturally depends on what your trying to run, but most guys seem to get by with a 5500-6500 size if they are just trying to keep a few fans & lights and the refrigirator and freezer up and running.
a 10kw will allow you to run a small air conditioner, the refriderator and lights, the T.V. etc.

I welded up a mini trailer with LARGE wheels to make the welder portable and used this for years
(I STILL USE IT AS AN EMERGENCY BACK UP FOR THE SHOP)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... umber=2575

(ITS A COMBO GENERATOR AND ARC WELDER)it can be adapted to work as a TIG WELDER with optional accessories and it powers almost all the stuff youll need durring power outages if you have the necessary gas and oil, figure about 10-12 gal a 24 hr day

http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2 ... de=K1419-5

not much sence in spending cash on a generator youll only use once every few years when you can get a valuable shop tool that will be used frequently, that can also fill in durring energencys as a generator

WE NEEDED an EMERGENCY GENERATOR and buying a WELDER/GENERATOR COMBO just seemed to be alot smarter option

after several huricanes the wife talked me into getting a 40kw generator and a 2000 gal. underground PROPANE tank, with auto start, the 10kw trailer generator might look expensive (ON SALE ITS UNDER $3K with the trailer cost added) but its a screaming bargin compared to the 40KW, tank and electrician hook up fees, county permits etc, that ran closer to $37K
 
sure, but a 40kW will power your entire house easily. With the propane capacity you described it will keep you with power for how long? I'd suspect part of the cost of electrical setup was a cutoff so when your grid goes down it'll only power you. If that is the case, when power comes back on do you have to manually kill generator and return to grid power, or does it sync up to grid phasing and reconnect on its own?
 
the system in theory will run for 8-10 days on a tank, the power connections to the grid are issolated when the power drops off and replaced with a re-directed source issolated from the grid automatically after the power company feeds been off for 30 seconds, and 30 seconds after the power company power maintains a steady voltage on thier feed the power issolator swaps feeds and kills the generator automatically, the gismo doing the control of feed dirrection,issolation and power detection on the grid, plus its hook, testing and permits added $7K to the costs
 
ouch. Spent 4 years on a sub, part of engineering department. one of the more fun duties was to isolate and restore paths of power. basically doing what your gizmo is supposed to do. you had acid test of the system yet? or did you lay out the money, and had no power outages since?
 
we have brief 10-30 minutes outages almost weekly IM out in the sticks, the end of my street starts at the border canal where the glades starts, and yes its been in frequent use, works flawlessly and issolates correctly...it damn well better at that price
 
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