Yanking my engine

DorianL

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
Hey all,

I am yanking the engine out of my 1969 tomorrow. I have pulled the engine out of my Chevelle a dozen times over the years... but it had an automatic. I have never dealt with manual.

Are there any tips with dealing with a manual box? Should I pull the engine out with the trans? What specifically would I have to unbolt or drop there... speedo cable,...
 
I like removing the transmission 1st.

I have pulled engines out with transmissions attached.
Often bang into the floor pan.
A C3 Is Fiberglass everywhere.
Bang it hard and it Cracks.

Pull The Muncie Out Dorian.
 
why even touch the transmission, Id just unbolt the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing ,
if you never remove the clutch from the flywheel or bell housing from the block the trans will generally almost self align on re-install, even if you do remove the trans later having the engine out first makes the job far easier

these threads may help

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-removal-procedure.704/#post-979

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/pulling-your-vettes-engine.43/#post-51
 
Last edited:
Ira, I’ve removed several motors from C3s and I can do this in my sleep. Remove the transmission with the motor (since you stated you will be doing some clutchwork too).
Besides your lift, a carb plate and jack stands will serve you well.
Jack your car up placing jack stands underneath (having the front wheels off the ground with at least 4” of space will workout well during this job).
Because your nose tip to the carb is very long you will need to slide the lift in from one of the sides. Removing a front wheel/tire from the lift side will make sliding and maneuvering the lift a lot easier.
Remove the hood.
Remove shifter And speedo connection at trans.
Remove carburetor and throttle linkage.
Install carburetor plate.
You may keep the radiator in.
Remove power steering pump from block, set aside with lines still on (rope or a bungee cord may help keep the pump from tipping and leaking fluid).
The passenger side fuel pump comes off because the motor mount bolt is too difficult to get to from the bottom and the mount bolt slides towards the pump and won’t come out because the pump is in the way.
Remove the drive shaft at the trans tail.
Remove the trans mount bolts.
Remove the starter wires leading to ignition.
Disconnect the exhaust but leave the headers on (Stock headers usually have a ground strap to the firewall, must remove)
Remove heater hoses and radiator hoses (careful, coolant will run out so you must take measures to contain).
If your rear wheels are on the ground engage the emergency brake and chock the wheels because the drive shaft was removed and being in gear no longer will hold the car from rolling.
Continue to look for the minor things still connected (if any) and disconnect.
Connect the lift hook to the carburetor plate.
Now you can pull the motor.

I think that everything LOL! Have fun!
 
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