Been busy today working on my 1963 Grand Prix & Olds 425 V8 install.
Anothee night or 2 & Ready to Fire her up.
I see Grumpy, Rick, & Bob are helping tonight.
I am leaning towards Grumpy's 2 cents.
11.0 Static is pretty high.
9.0-9.3 :1 be better.
Anymore I think a Street engine shpuld run safe on 87 octane pee water gas.
In case no other higher octane gas is available. like 89-91-93.
To run a Roller Camshaft you need $1,000 bucks to be on the safe side.
Full Road Race or Drag Race Roller, $2,000-4,000 bucks.
$4,000 bucks includes A Full set of 16 Titanium valves.
Flat Tappet Solid & Hydraulic cams still a Good Choice today on a Budget.
He tends to do that.....Grumpy states very valid points, if your in a hot place, it may be smarter to keep your Static around 10:1 and keep your Dynamic close to 8:1. It might be the smart play!
Yes those heads look okay, find out the flow data on them so a desktop dyno can be estimated. With the larger chambers you can run a cam with a IVC of 64 or 65 and be pretty safe. Or one with a shorter IVC and retard it to get the Dynamic right. You can't beat a Perf RPM airgap they are great for street.
You get what you pay for when it comes to SBC engine parts.
Your not Racing.
Want a Broad Flat Torque curve.
Its your 1st engine.
Should be easy to tune it and maintain it.
Turn key and drive anywhere.
The 1st 20 minutes of camshaft break in is critical with Flat tappet cams.
Low cost to buy is a nice benifit.
Keep in mind to rebuild most any Rear differential and install new gears of choice it takes $600-950 bucks.
I would want to know exactly what piston I'm going to use with those heads, doI might jump on these.. Any reason why they won't work?
Thoughts?
I would want to know exactly what piston I'm going to use with those heads, do
you have a part number and specs? You are buying a system not just components.
Need to make sure you can buy exactly what's needed and the only way to do that
is a plan done in writing with all related components spelled out.
Can't really go back and Redo the Shortblock.
Its been machined and balanced.
I would have chose a Dished piston.
+ 15 To 20 cc Dish.
Keep the build simple and no Trickery needed in cam timing, Slow spark advance, Exact Carb fuel delivery.
Low gears like 3.90-4.56 in the diff lessons the load the engines sees.
Less likely to run into Detonation issues.
Your Impala is Heavier than my 1963 Grand Prix at 4,200 pounds with me in it & 25 gallons of gasoline in the tank.
http://www.promaxxperformance.com/index.php/racing-parts/sbc/sbc-small-block-chevy-2112.html
looks like a good choice for that application,
keep in mind what goes in must exit and the exhaust gases have significantly increased in heat and volume, and the headers and cam timing complement each other, so having a set of long tube headers, and a low flow restriction exhaust goes a long way to allowing the engine to breath effectively
theres a good deal of related info in the links I posted here
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-guys-that-just-slap-on-factory-headers.3155/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-between-shorty-and-full-length-headers.1303/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-custom-headers.961/#post-15359
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...n-exhaust-system-for-your-car.1166/#post-8363
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-required-exhaust-pipe-size.11552/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-diam-headers-do-i-need.7017/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/mig-or-tig.72/page-2
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...eld-gas-selection-for-welding.1108/#post-2185
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/welding-an-exhaust-system.255/#post-303
I'll start on a written plan too..
Maybe it don't matter, but are those heads straight plug or angled. They lookAny thoughts on the Promaxx heads I'm looking at