$10,000 for A/C and tilt wheel in this car

chromebumpers

chromebumpers

solid fixture here in the forum
Staff member
I'm in negotiations for this car. Spent a sold 8 hrs going up and down this car. I can't do without air and can't get my knees bent enough to get in and out with the steering wheel the way it is. I must have the seat back to the limits and the wheel is so close to the seat. The dealership seems pretty good so I would like them to do the work of installing a correct tilt wheel and installing factory a/c. The quote looks a bit high? Thoughts?

Rich

http://www.gmoutlet.com/70ta_61014/
 
I'm in negotiations for this car. Spent a sold 8 hrs going up and down this car. I can't do without air and can't get my knees bent enough to get in and out with the steering wheel the way it is. I must have the seat back to the limits and the wheel is so close to the seat. The dealership seems pretty good so I would like them to do the work of installing a correct tilt wheel and installing factory a/c. The quote looks a bit high? Thoughts?
Sorry, pictures are not in order. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Pontia...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

Rich

http://www.gmoutlet.com/70ta_61014/
 
I'm not keeping the Catalina or the Goat after this buy. Anybody want a nice car? Free shipping to the lower 48, a $1,200 credit anywhere else.
 
If you bought for $60k then its a High water Resto survivor.
Your free to do as you please.
30 year old restoration .1985.
Not a car to drive daily.
My 2 cents find an optioned car to suite
 
The 1970 TA Runs best on 110 Race gas.
Straight Race fuel.

1971-74 runs great on 91 octane
 
You never keep any too long.
Try not to wreck it.
Parts are unique.
Many 1 Year only.
Impossible to find.

Retarding timing on pump gas still leads to blown engine.

Must feed the Ram Air 3 a steady dose of High octane 110.
Chevy Tech don't apply.
Its Pontiac .
 
The 1970
87vette81big said:
The 1970 TA Runs best on 110 Race gas.
Straight Race fuel.

1971-74 runs great on 91 octane
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that it was not above 10.5:1 therefore I could use 94 octane.

The 1970 Ram Air 3 & Ram Air 4 400 does have around 10.5 -10.75 : 1 Static compression .
There is also Dynamic compression....Camshaft timing.
Its sky high peak cylinder pressure . Too much for pump gas reliable with full factory ignition timing with advance.

1970 was the last year for Premium leaded gas engine requirements in Pontiacs best.
1971 the static compression dropped to 8.4 :1.
Designed to run on 91 octane gas.

Also Pontiac engines all were designed for Leaded gasoline 1955-72.
No hardened exhaust seats used.
Tertra ethyl lead was readily available in all gasoline.

Come 1973 Pontiac started to induction harden the valveseats in all cylinder heads.

Also Pontiac cast iron heads are much more thermal efficient than modern aluminium .
Translates to more torque & HP.
But todays gas ...crapp.
10.5 static wih Pontiac iron heads is like 11.5-12:1 static aluminium in comparison.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
87vette81big said:
If you bought for $60k then its a High water Resto survivor.
Your free to do as you please.
30 year old restoration .1985.
Not a car to drive daily.
My 2 cents find an optioned car to suite
Click to expand...
I'm not paying $60K. There's a lot of little things they are trying to pass off or gave up, but I still respect the build, not often you can find a restoration that used all new factory parts.
This will be a drivable car, It's worth it to drive a car that feels and looks new. I want to limit my corral to one muscle car and one family convertible and that's it. Both must have sustainable value and be a pleasure to drive, I'm just not into cruising around in the hot humid sun or bringing a change of clothes.
 
Some MOFO WILL TRY AND STEAL IT.
TRUST ME.
ONE REASON I KEEP MINE HID.
 
I stopped in Joliet.
Hitting the road.
Want to get home.
I got pics of my Buds Krazy Eds 8.0 second 5.0 Stang Racer.
Super Fast.
Well over 1500 HP.
 
87vette81big said:
. . . . . . . .
My 2 cents find an optioned car to suite
Click to expand...

I don't know if that exists. I've looked at 9 cars this summer and only saw a GTO with Tilt and air. I'm even tempted to get an automatic. It's painful for me to work a clutch pedal in stop and go traffic.
 
A 1971 HO 455 TRANS OR 1971 HO 455 FORMULA FIREBIRD WOULD BE AN EXCELLENT CHOICE FOR YOU RICHARD.
71 T/A BE BOUGHT $18,000-28,000.

Most has Tilt steering
Factory A/C

Tutbo 400 auto trans

Run on 91 octane .
Use a lead gas additive.
Oreilley auto partd carries it.
 
I am Ok with running race gas in my TA.
Even @ $10 per gallon.
Drag Race.

I won't daily drive it no more
. Too rare.
World crazy.
I want my Boys to enjoy when its time.
 
There's a few cars on my bucket list. These are cars that when I was a teenager I was envious of the older guys driving and by the time I began working making real money, other things like houses and various adventures captured all my money. Then for decades I was just buying brand new cars.
From the time I was 15 I badly wanted a neighbor's 67 GTO in blue with a black vinyl top and Torque Thruster wheels, next was another guy's 70 Charger RT with the side door scoops. It was white with a black vinyl top, another was a triple black 67 Chevelle SS 396 with gold pin stripes. A medium blue 68 GTX with a black top. The town's big time criminal drove a triple black 70 Nova SS with a 396 and 4 spd. My older brother's best friend drove a 70 Chevelle 454 LS6, dark green with white stripes and cowl induction.
And one that a swear could have changed my life when I was 16. It was a 68 Camaro SS with a 327 4 speed. Blue with white stripes and those six square chrome screen hood vents (non functional). A Chevy dealer had it on the front lot for $1,650. And it came from my friend's brother. I had the money all but the $600 for insurance. I begged my father for the money and he wouldn't give me a penny.
All of these cars were in mint condition. Oh yeah, I forgot about the neighborhood drug dealer that lived 2 doors down in a rented house. He drove a different brand new car every couple of months at the most - no joke! I remember the 69 Daytona, or maybe it was a Super Bird. It was Hemi Orange. Then he had a 70 GTO in Carousel Red and the last one I remember was a red Cuda, either a 70 or 71. He disappeared one day and we never heard of him again.
I've owned a couple of these cars in "project" form during the past ten years but not one was a #3 or better condition. Now I want one of these in # 1 or # 2 condition. The family convertible can be a good #3 or #4. Material possession bucket list done!
 
87vette81big said:
. . . . . . . . . . . .
Use a lead gas additive.
Oreilley auto partd carries it.
Click to expand...
. . .or redo the valve seats for unleaded fuel.
Yes.
If done incorrect the Valveseats will fall out without notice.

With Route 66 Raceway so close to my work, Raceshop I hear bad stories.

DROPPED VALVESEATS ARE A PROBLEM AT TIMES IN ALUMINIUM HEADS.
MY BOSS SAID LS-X ARE KNOWN FOR THE PROBLEM.
AUTOWIZ FROM DC HAS STATED THE SAME.

PONTIAC FACTORY IRON HAS ONE HUGE ADVANTAGE IN STOCK FORM .
NO VALVESEATS TO FALL OUT EVER.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm going to lose my shirt on the '65 I have in UT

You have to think about things real hard.
Your Racing days are likely done.
You had both Hips replaced recent.

Have a New Business to run and finances. to go with.

Have a Nice project GTO.

HAVE THE 1968 CATALINA CONVERTIBLE.

HAVE THE MECUM JACKSON AUCTION TRUCK TO BUILD.
$.

WIFEE NEEDS A NEW CAR.

YOUR CHEVY DURAMAX IS GOING AGAIN OK.
BUT AGING.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
10 grand for tilt and AC is a lot but you have to consider it's a LOT of work to install factory AC into a non AC early 2nd gen TA with the factory correct parts. AND those parts will not be cheap. The engine's gotta come out. Firewall has to be cut. Need to remove buckets and console for access to the dash which has to be almost completely disassembled, radio, glovebox, gauges etc all need to be out of the way. As for parts you need factory suitcase, compressor, condenser, plumbing, crank pulley, wiring harness, brackets, dipstick, cowl fresh air trap door, belt, heater hoses, and a couple electrical bits under hood. Inside you'll need a heat/AC box, plenum, AC heater core, ducts, glove box door, steering column panel, AC kick panels, AC control panel, vacuum lines and diaphragm cans, heat/AC door cable, speaker bracket, firewall insulation, and the early correct gauge panel with the raised lips & small trim rings.

Vintage Air type modern system would be the way I'd go. Less cost for a complete system and less install cost. PLUS it can be converted back more easily if someone wants factory correct non AC car.

The tilt can be swapped out fairly easily. Ask your buddy with the junkyards to look up the 70 tilt column on the Hollander exchange. I believe the 1" splined shaft columns were used till around 77 before they switched to the double D columns. You'll need a new early 2nd gen rag joint. The electrical for the safety switch etc. is all the same.

http://gmtilt.com/
http://gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/

I don't have an extra column but I do have some of the 70 AC interior bits if you decide to go the factory AC route.

Oh ya, I run 110 leaded on track, cut 50% with hi-test on the street. 68 # 16 heads on my 400.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top