There are lots of option there, do you have a particular part number you are thinking about???
A good cast crank should be reliable to about 5500 rpm. Hyperutectic piston are strong, but
are not as good as forged when there is detonation. So if you are pushing the CR limits, they
seem like a good choice. But don't get bad gas or have the ignition timing too far advanced
and be loading the motor too much, like climbing a long hill in Colorado. Detonation can
destroy a set of piston pretty quickly, especially Hyper's. With the typical hot rod exhaust system,
you wont' be able to hear the detonation like you can on the family car.
So you see, there is no ONE Right Answer for any situation...... hence the fun of building your
own engine!
Don't give up completely on the E Street heads, if you camshaft is under .525 lift then call the
manufacture and see what they have to say. Most roller valve springs are dual, the E Street don't
say, although they have a big enough OD to be dual valve springs.
Why not wait until next spring and do it "
without a doubt"
right. It will be a good lesson for
the kids to see you wait to get what you really want. Even if you have all the parts in 3 weeks and
you are ready to start PRE-assembly and checking everything like, bearing clearance, valve to
piston clearance, degreeing the camshaft, coil bind, pushing rod length, deck clearance, polishing
chambers .... etc etc etc. you won't be done this year by November. It took me
OVER three years to
build a engine and transmission to my liking. That after NOT driving the TBucket for 15 years.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/component-check-build-sequence-tracking.4894/
Just read your
Edit ..... why would the E Street's be any different for shipping costs? Any head
manufactures in Australia???
Sorry I didn't give you some black & white answers, don't worry thou, you will get there!!!
Few minutes later!!!
