Building Up A Blown Olds Motor for an "A/GS Gasser"

Not much to update here. Am traveling on the mainland visiting family. Wanted to bring the car over and drive to Bonnieville. But money or lack of prevented that. Too bad, would have been a lot of fun! Been driving it all over Maui though,, love driving that car, when just cruising I've got it tuned to around 20 MPG, but hit the boost, and it sounds like a toilet flushing! The rear U joint has started growling when over 60 mph, gotta replace that now. The 4.11 gears are a little bit much for the street, 3.50's would be better, but the 4.11 gears are perfect for the strip. Missed the July race night, but I'll be there in August and try to shoot some vids!
Aloha,
Willy
 
2Loose said:
Not much to update here. Am traveling on the mainland visiting family. Wanted to bring the car over and drive to Bonnieville. But money or lack of prevented that. Too bad, would have been a lot of fun! Been driving it all over Maui though,, love driving that car, when just cruising I've got it tuned to around 20 MPG, but hit the boost, and it sounds like a toilet flushing! The rear U joint has started growling when over 60 mph, gotta replace that now. The 4.11 gears are a little bit much for the street, 3.50's would be better, but the 4.11 gears are perfect for the strip. Missed the July race night, but I'll be there in August and try to shoot some vids!
Aloha,
Willy
Click to expand...

What type of U-Joints are You using Willy ?
The GM stock 1310's ?
Ford Style 1330's?
Dana 60 Musclecar 1350's?
Or the Mechanic's 3R's used on 1957-1964 Fullsize Pontiac Olds Rearends?
The Torque of your Blown Olds 425 almost dictates 1350's or Mechanics 3R.
Kill 1310's fast.

Drove my 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix tonight.
1st time in over 2 years. Olds 403 I built back in 1998 Fired up in 10 seconds.
2 year old gas.
Added 5 gallons fresh.
Drivng on paved blacktop country roads for 1-1/2 hours.
Sat so long exhaust headpipes rusted off.
Open daul exhaust. Didn't care. I loved it still.
Trip to carwash & sprayed her clean back to blue metalic paint.
Something about a Widetrack Pontiac with Olds V8.
Love affair.
Can't wait to install my 1965 Olds 425A 360 Hp Isky cammed engine this if
 
New 1350 pinion yoke was a tight fit on the u-joint bearings, I "pulled" them into place with the yoke U-bolts, thinking at the time, "this is gonna be a problem!"....
Sure enough....
I now have a new "cross" to put in, if it is also a tight fit, I will have to do something about that pinion yoke!

I rebuilt the brakes on my 58 pro street truck, it was fun to get it back out on the street again, except that now both
Mufflers' guts are rattling loudly, gotta replace 'em! It's an ugly sound!
Willy
 
2Loose said:
New 1350 pinion yoke was a tight fit on the u-joint bearings, I "pulled" them into place with the yoke U-bolts, thinking at the time, "this is gonna be a problem!"....
Sure enough....
I now have a new "cross" to put in, if it is also a tight fit, I will have to do something about that pinion yoke!

I rebuilt the brakes on my 58 pro street truck, it was fun to get it back out on the street again, except that now both
Mufflers' guts are rattling loudly, gotta replace 'em! It's an ugly sound!
Willy
Click to expand...

You might not have a 1350 series Yoke Willy.
It might be a Mechanics 3R sized style Yoke.
Mechanics 3R U-joint Sized in the middle compared to a Ford 1330 & Dana 60 1350.

The best High Performance Turbo style muffler I have found & used are Walker Super Dyno Max.
Made up to 3" inch In & Outlets.
Race I prefer Flowmaster 2 Chamber non Delta series.
Delta too quiet.
Must shake the windows & set off car alarms & store alarms driving by & nail gad pedal hard.
Borla Race Mufflers Great too.
 
3rd member is a used Strange unit I bought locally with a 35 spline spool, 4.11 gears, supposedly a 1350 pinion yoke, I put all new bearings and a new crush sleeve and got it nicely set up, good wipe pattern, etc. The driveshaft is a fairly new steel unit I had Strange build for me. The 1350 on the driveshaft fit the pinion yoke in my street unit, a Currie 3.50 Detroit Locker 3rd member, very nicely, but was just ever so slightly "snug" going into the pinion yoke on the spool setup. The u-joint would start to seat in the pinion yoke, but would not go all the way in and seat itself without using the u-bolts to "pull" it in. Something is not right. I am going to pull the 3rd member and try to find out why that yoke is so tight on the u-joint.

For mufflers I like the Dynomax UltraFlow SS in 3". But after 10 years or so of use, the cores have come loose and are rattling loudly at certain rpm & throttle settings. I have replacements to put in, along with pair of Race Ready 3" elec cut outs. Will dissect the "rattlers" and see what's up inside!

Aloha,
Willy
 
High Horsepower & Very high torque engines are hard on mufflers Willy.

I would call Strange Engineering & Ask what's up with pinion yoke.
Just sounds like they machined it to Mechanics 3R 1957-64 9.300 ring gear Olds Pontiac style U-joint.
 
I'm unfamiliar with the Mechanics 3R spec, is it that close to the 1350 spec to create the "almost" fit that I am seeing?
 
2Loose said:
I'm unfamiliar with the Mechanics 3R spec, is it that close to the 1350 spec to create the "almost" fit that I am seeing?
Click to expand...

Yes Willy.
Specs for all U-Joints listed by Dana Spicer & Neepco.
Also listed in the NAPA paper back U- joint catalogue.
Something is Amiss.
Strange Engineering has very high quality products.
Always. Manufacter all their products with great pride.
 
I've always had excellent parts from both Strange and Currie.
When I get back home, will get the micrometers out and see what's up....
Will letcha know what I find....
Willy
 
yes I find it amazing that theres guys in this hobby without snap gauges and dial indicator calipers, so many problems are avoided by actually knowing the accurate measurements

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dia ... 66541.html

SnapGage&Micrometer0464.jpg

calipersxa.jpg

snapgaugesxa.jpg
 
Replaced a noisy rear u-joint, but a growling noise is still there. Definitely is in the tranny (a Doug Nash 5 speed). But being stubborn, I kept driving it around, until last nite, and the tranny let go. Now I have to pull it and see what is going on inside. I have a built up th400 with a BOP bolt pattern that will match my Olds motor, might just stick that inside. I have too many other projects going on though, don't know when I will get to this one!
Aloha,
Willy
 
It went south with a lot of noise in 2nd gear, and I just have not been able to get to it until this week!

Yeah, I did hit the loud pedal and pop the clutch when I shoulda been a lil more "relaxed" about it, but still, I wasn't doing that much to it, it shoulda held....

Pulled it apart, and second gear was gone! The counter shaft gear has NO teeth, all gone! The main shaft gear has about half the teeth gone! I'm having problems with my photo posting for some reason, will post pix as soon as I can!

The two main bearings on the main shaft are noisy, and the three big bearings on the counter shaft are noisy, and the local bearing house had them in stock! I've talked to Richmond Gear and they need the serial number off my Doug Nash "4+1" to see if it is a "newer" model, if so, their 5 sp street tranny parts will work! I only need the 2nd gear set, the rest are good to go....

Aloha,
Willy
 
WOW! Its always rather depressing and usually gets expensive when a trans goes south, hopefully youll take, and post lots of clear and detailed pictures of the damage and repair process
 
Taking lots of pix, but not able to post at the moment, will resolve that soon....

Got Lucky, Just found out from Richmond Gear that my Doug Nash is the later model, and the RG Street 5 speed parts will fit! So ordered the matching 2nd gear set and all new synchro rings, also the spring loaded detent keys inside the sliders that "click" back into neutral (not completely necessary, have sometimes left them out on past 4 speed rebuilds w no adverse effects), and the bill is $660. Add to that the $250 I spent at the bearing house, and this is nearly a thousand dollar repair job, good thing I ain't payin' that worthless mechanic anything more then beer and peanuts....

Aloha,
Willy
 
I,m looking forward to clear detailed pictures, hope that
"that worthless mechanic that works for beer and peanuts...." gets the job done correctly... best to limit the beer intake till your done
 
Yup, he's been put on a diet of soda and pretzels until it's done....

Just added the bearings inside the reverse idler gear to the order, they are a little noisy, the reverse gears all look good though....
 
Put a new thread over in the Technical Articles/muscle cars ‹ American Muscle Cars ‹ Drive Trains and Tires: Repairs and Modifications for my tranny teardown, and will add more as I get it back together:

viewtopic.php?f=45&t=10159

A peek:
Doug%20Nash%20Rebuild%2008s%20Jan%202014.JPG


Aloha,
Willy
 
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