Head and Cam Swap, 82 CFI

Hit what may be a snag. Plastigauge shows the clearance on the main bearings to be .001. I'm thinking that's too tight, so I'm thinking of getting looser bearings. Any thoughts?
 
wow this cars come a long way... how didnt i see this thread in all this time? loooks good man! keep up the great work.
 
Well we didn't get the right bearings until today, so we'll have to finish it up next weekend. In the meantime, I got an a/c system from Classic Auto Air. Sanden compressor, parallel flow condenser, new barrier hoses and o rings, and a new drier. That should keep me busy for a few days. Last nite I installed the condenser. I had to pull the radiator support to drill some holes for the mount, but It came out good. Sorry for the lack of pics, I was all involved in the process and totally forgot about taking any. I'm flushing the evaporator tomorrow. Today has been taken up painting the brackets and prepping for the install. The compressor will go on after the engine in back in the car, obviously. The kit was good quality, and the bracket for the compressor is hefty! So now when I'm done I'll have a good engine and better A/C. Hopefully I'll get it done in time to enjoy the A/C for a bit before It gets colder. I'll go out and take some pics later today and post up what I've done so far with the a/c system.
 
Drawmain said:
Sorry for the lack of pics, I was all involved in the process and totally forgot about taking any.
Click to expand...

Shame on you Drawmain, how could you forget about your friends??? But I bet you enjoyed yourself!!! ;)

Looking forward to the pics and more about the add-on A/C, I've considered buying a 68-72 Chevy truck and putting A/C in it.

 
Pics from the condenser installation:





Compressor bracket freshly painted:



Flushing the evaporator tomorrow after work.
 

Coming along nicely!

Did you recheck the main bearing clearances with the new bearings? Who knows,
maybe you got a bearing packaged on Friday and the guy was thinking about his
date with that cute girl later that night and threw the wrong bearing in that box
you got.

How about the clearance on the thrust bearing, how much do you have there?

 
Yes, we did check the clearances, tightest one was .0015 and that was the rear main bearing. All the others were fine. The crank turns smoothly. Thrust bearing was .007. The shop that did the machining told us they were building their engines with the tighter clearance that we measured before, but I just didn't want to risk it. It's amazing what a difference .001" makes.
 
Drawmain said:
Yes, we did check the clearances, tightest one was .0015 and that was the rear main bearing. All the others were fine. The crank turns smoothly. Thrust bearing was .007. The shop that did the machining told us they were building their engines with the tighter clearance that we measured before, but I just didn't want to risk it. It's amazing what a difference .001" makes.
Click to expand...

Hope you don't mind the questions about rechecking!

You said it's amazing what a difference .001" makes ..... are you referring to
how easy it was to turn the crank?

 
No, I was talking about how much better I felt once I got that .002 clearance. I didn't try to turn the crank with just .001 clearance, I didn't put the crank back in with lube until we got the clearance right. I sure don't mind you asking about re-checking. It never hurts to take another look.
 
Tonight I learned that you have to have full floating style connecting rods to go with your full floating piston pins. I'm calling this a "Homer Simpson Moment" D'oh! Scat rods ordered. More pics coming when they arrive...
 
Drawmain said:
Tonight I learned that you have to have full floating style connecting rods to go with your full floating piston pins. I'm calling this a "Homer Simpson Moment" D'oh! Scat rods ordered. More pics coming when they arrive...
Click to expand...
:D Had many of them but they get fewer as I get older but feel there is a curve with that.
 
Drawmain said:
Tonight I learned that you have to have full floating style connecting rods to go with your full floating piston pins. I'm calling this a "Homer Simpson Moment" D'oh! Scat rods ordered. More pics coming when they arrive...
Click to expand...

Don't get us started telling about all the stupid mistakes we have made. If we did,
we would be here all day, there is that many stories! :)

 
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=6909&p=22571&hilit=pressed+floating#p22571

viewtopic.php?f=88&t=10198&p=40424&hilit=bronze+connecting+rods#p40424

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=978

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=247



most machine shops can do it cheaply,(convert pressed pin connecting rods to fit full float piston pins, with a bronze, press in ,insert and matching machine work, so they fit the floating pins youll use) they simply bore the small end of the rod for a interference press fit for the bronze bushing , press it in place and hone to fit the piston pin

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-2304vnh/overview/
bronzeb.jpg


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_3Q2v10Lrc
 
I used an adjustable pushrod length checker and the measurement came out at 7.75. I have a set of Comp Cams Magnum pusrods ordered, should be here Tuesday or Wednesday. That is the last part. The rest of this weekend will be spent re painting the oil pan and timing cover, and re finishing the valve covers. With a little luck I'll be dropping the engine back in next Saturday.
 
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