TBucket Engine Project (Dart SHP)

Indycars said:

Has anyone ever had a problem with only having two bolts to hold the starter???
For $27 more, I can get a starter with 3 holes (staggered mount) and it has the
same torque as their model 9500 does.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9526
Click to expand...

yes you can buy a starter with three holes, in the starter so it can be easily interchanges from a BIG BLOCK with an angled mount too fit a 168 tooth flywheel and still allow it to be used to a small block with a 153 tooth flywheel, but neither stock engine block, in most cases has a third starter mounting hole to allow you to use a third mount bolt, your DART block may be an exception here but just check, to verify holes are aligned for use with either starter, config and threaded, before you order the part
shpw2a.jpg
 

I checked the Dart website and it says any Chevy starter, so I checked my
block and it has 3 threaded holes. I also put a staggered starter that I have
to make sure the holes were in the right locations, which they are.

Just wondering if there were any advantages to having 3 bolts hold it
mounted to the block?

 
Ive never had any issues with just two starter mount bolts , but if I had the option of using three mounting bolts,( I never did, because all my mini starters had only two mount holes,) its obviously going to enhance rigidity so Id sure do it! if I had the option
 
Indycars said:

Has anyone ever had a problem with only having two bolts to hold the starter???
For $27 more, I can get a starter with 3 holes (staggered mount) and it has the
same torque as their model 9500 does.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9526
Click to expand...

The Mini Starter you have pictured Rick is a Nipondenso based starter.
Its a good design.
You find similar on Honda vehicles.
Known to last over 200,000 miles without failure.

Tradeoff is slightly less cranking torque than the Hitachi based Tilton ministarter & copycats.
 
my old starter (on the 350)was 2 bolt staggered, my new one(on the 383) is 2 inline bolt, not a single problem so far, but since am forced induction my engine is low compression(8.7:1) so, rigidity is not much of a problem for me lol.
 

Thanks for all the replies, it's greatly appreciated !

On another note ..... I wanted to get fairly close with configuration of my
MSD 8360 distributor before installing it. By default it comes with the
stiffest springs and a blue "Advance Stop Bushing", see diagram A. This
would limit mechanical advance to 21°, all in by 3800 rpm.

http://www.msdignition.com/product.aspx ... terms=8360

I went to the silver and blue springs (Diagram E) and the silver bushing.
This should limit mechanical advance to 25°. all in by 2900 rpm. If I have
an initial advance set to 12°, then I will get 37° at 2900 rpm. I will have
to check and make sure of the exact numbers that I get, since these
graphs are only approximations.

I have to admit I was not reading the graphs correctly when I did this. I
might go with diagram D, to be alittle more conservative in the beginning.
Changing springs is easy, but changing the tiny bushing that is on the
bottom side of the weights would be nearly impossible to change with the
distributor installed.

MSD_SpringSetup01.jpg
MSD_SpringSetup02.jpg
MSD_Bushing.jpg


 
Last edited:
Won't be long before you can Tune the T bucket Carb & distributor Rick.

The BUTT Dyno still works fairly well if you drive, listen, and feel the torque of the engine under load.
If leans out or detonates get off the gas pedal. Changes required.
 
T- bucket is so light @ 2,000lbs.
Most non chassis musclecars & Corvettes wiegh 3,000-4,000 lbs
.
Your distributor mechanical advance used will likely be different from most used.
 
Brians correct!
a good deal can be learned with a BUTT DYNO,
you can FEEL how the car reacts to changes, and
with experience locate and correct problems rather quickly.
plus having experience reading spark plugs,
using a infrared thermometer ,
a vacuum gauge, multi meter
,timing light,
damper with a degree scale on it
and an adjustable ignition curve,
and fuel pressure meter
and of course
having experience and using your ears
 
I agree as well on the BUTT DYNO comment. I'm wrapping up my tune on my build as well and a good example of this is an AFR meter. AFR meters are great tuning aids and provide insight to what’s going on with air fuel ratio, manifold vac and throttle position under different driving conditions. You can get a real good baseline on you carb setup with this visibility. You would think it would be easy to say, OK I want 13.8 AFR under light load conditions because that’s what I read in a form somewhere as typical. , the AFR meter will show you this but it's all about what your build wants and ultimately it’s the seat of the pants feel that lets you know when you have it right. You may find out that 13 AFR is what “feels” the best. The same thing applies to timing.

What’s a challenge for me is since I’m relatively new to the hot rod scene not knowing what the “seat of the pants” actually feels like. You guys who have done dozens of builds and been around hot rods for a long time have an advantage here. Tires chirping taking off at a red light, stomp it at 50mph and the back end breaking loose and massive burnouts are also good indications for me that the tune is getting close. I’ll get busy updating my build post soon with my tuning trials and tribulations. Indy, I’m looking forward to your tuning sessions as well since we have similar builds and your running a demon.
 
On the street you ideally tune for good performance at all driving speeds & ocassional WOT.
Should have a safety margin in mind for an ocassional bad tank of gas.
Or if forced to use 87 pee water gas to get home.

At the racetrack you tune for maximum power.
Bracket racing can use a safety margin. Running against set ET breakout times.
Heads up racing & want to win you tune for ragged edge power without engine leanout & Detonation.
Have to consider daytime & night time air temp changes & relative humidty.
There can be a 30-40 degree temp change in the fall season.

Circletrack should have a slight safety margin tune in mind.
Muuch time spent WOT & fast breaking into corners.
On gas hard exiting corner.

Butt Dyno very usefull still.
 
bytor said:
Indy, I’m looking forward to your tuning sessions as well
since we have similar builds and you running a demon.
Click to expand...

I'm looking forward to my tuning sessions to, since that involves actually
driving it !!!

BTW, have you'll upgraded your BUTT DYNOs lately ..... mine has
accelerometers since my upgrade. It was a bit painful thou! :cool:

 
Indycars said:

Can I cut some of the length off if its too long? Do I need more than one in the system?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060
Click to expand...
yes of course you can cut it shorter, just remember it slowly degrades as it protects your coolant system so every few months youll want to check its condition and decide if it needs to be replaced


READ THIS LINK
viewtopic.php?f=57&t=74&p=18855&hilit=anodes#p18855

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_qhxgglcO0

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c ... 7AodUncAfw
 
Indycars said:

I can't use the anode on the radiator cap with this radiator.

Is it best to have 2 anodes, or will 1 work since the water is circulating?



http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c ... 7AodUncAfw
Click to expand...

One Anode is better than None I would say Rick.
I haven't ever used Anodes in any of my engine builds.
But think its a great idea to protect against Electrolysis corrosion.

Is that an original Ford Flat Head V8 Radiator Rick ?
Or from a 1940's 4 inch crank stroke Mercury - Lincoln Flattie?
Either or is Rare.
Lincoln radiators were the Heavy Duty Race radiator to use way back when Drag racing started & Belly Tank Streamliners were built & raced after WW2.
 
87vette81big said:
(1) One Anode is better than None I would say Rick.
(2) Is that an original Ford Flat Head V8 Radiator Rick ?
Or from a 1940's 4 inch crank stroke Mercury - Lincoln Flattie?
Either or is Rare.
(3) Belly Tank Streamliners were built & raced after WW2.
Click to expand...

(1) But I'm wondering if I really need two anodes to properly take
care of corrosion?

(2) No it's just a plain old after market Walker radiator.

(3) I would like to drive at Bonneville someday (bucket list) .....but I
would guess that belly tanks are not that cheap anymore if you could
find one.

 
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