The Force Awakens...

Sorry about the last part, but I did warn you :D

I was going to say to remove the alternator but the 72 I had a few years back was removed retaining the alt and stock headers. It looked like the headers had a little exhaust leaking, or is it just some shadowing around the ports?
Clutch material - are the recessed rivets that fasten the clutch lining still recessed?
 
I just sold the motor in my 68 Chevelle. I’m going to try doing it tomorrow. Got the motor mounts, radiator and the rest of the goodies for the LQ9 I’ve been holding for years now.
 
chromebumpers said:
I just sold the motor in my 68 Chevelle. I’m going to try doing it tomorrow. Got the motor mounts, radiator and the rest of the goodies for the LQ9 I’ve been holding for years now.
Click to expand...
Check the oil pan clearance to the ground.
Likely need the Cast Aluminum GM Muscle car oil pan.
I swapped in a Race Built( I built it from a bare block) 6.0 LS last year this time at the Race Shop I worked at into a 1971 SS Chevelle.
LS5 BBC I pulled out.
LS3 Race Ported Heads. Holley High Ram Tunnel Ram EFI intake.
Factory cowl induction hood.
Was a 550-600 RWHP project all N/A motor.
Engine dropped in pretty easy along with Turbo 350 Trans used.
Headers fit fine.
2 inches of ground clearance with The GM Muscle car swap oil pan on.
Car not lowered any. Stock BBC front springs.
Nothing easy about fine details of LS swap unless it's a true chassis drag car.

Never did solve low ground clearance issue.
No way to.
Have to take a Moroso Race oil pan .
Cut it.
Modify it.
Or use Drag Race Full Dry Sump layout.
 
Brandon the Ex Boss wanted me to chop 4 inches off the bottom of cast oil pan.
TIG it back together!
I told him your Hi on drugs.

SHOULD HAVE KEPT THE 454 LS5 IN IT !
 
I’m using the dry sump system I bought from a wrecked 07 Z06. I just have to find which mag I read about For instructions. Some shop in TX or OK.
 
I have been reading up on clutches, how they wear + symptoms.

Looking at the sorry state of the component and remembering the difficulty I had getting off the line... I think it is safe to say that this clutch played a significant role in the spongy feeling I got getting the car to move.

Like everything else on this car so far, I think this clutch was probably not only quite warn but a budget component.

I am wondering if... once I replace the clutch kit, resurface the flywheel, rebuild the clutch linkage, and replace the motor mounts... if the vibration will fade and the driving experience will dramatically improve.

I’ll wager it will.
 
I doubt youll regret, buying a better clutch pressure plate and disc,
measure your existing bell housing and flywheel, carefully, most are designed to take a 10.4" disc and pressure plate.
some allow an 11" clutch, if it fits get the 11" version
 
If you flush coolant away with water make sure no animals lick at it. Antifreeze/coolant is sweet to them (certainly to dogs) and it’s wickedly poisonous!
 
Well, this should make the car safer not to mention restore the missing reverse interlock.

Just in from eBay

D32B6DB8-8FB8-4B63-88B2-F4F7C40BD53F.jpeg
 
I still can’t believe this bracket and the two bolts holding the steering column were missing
 
It’s strange that ANYBODY could be that negligent but sadly I’ve seen JB Weld on some very dangerous places.
 
yeah! theres a few real "ingenious" IDIOTS out there!
I remember my brother-in-law buying a set of wheels that had the holes for the lug bolts brazed and re-drilled,
from the chevy to the mopar lug pattern, I told him he was a F%%^^ IDIOT,
to try to drive them... and the first time he tried a burn-out,
the wheels came off!even though the lugs stayed fastened
 
DorianL said:
I still can’t believe this bracket and the two bolts holding the steering column were missing
Click to expand...
Why would you do that? I can understand deleting the cable... but this?!?!

Lug nut bolts brazed and redrilled ?!?!? How does one come up with that? That’s even beyond the scope of my creative imagination
 
Grumpy said:
yeah! theres a few real "ingenious" IDIOTS out there!
I remember my brother-in-law buying a set of wheels that had the holes for the lug bolts brazed and re-drilled,
from the chevy to the mopar lug pattern, I told him he was a F%%^^ IDIOT,
to try to drive them... and the first time he tried a burn-out,
the wheels came off!even though the lugs stayed fastened
Click to expand...
What, no stick welder? o_O
 
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