The Force Awakens...
- Thread starter DorianL
- Start date
Right gents... I sent off the gas tank to be repaired by a local radiator shop. I am fairly confident that they will do a good job. They assure me I'll get my tank back by Friday if not Thursday. They hot-tanked it over the weekend to get all the rust off.
I ran into another snag.
One of these was the ignition wire... twisted together. It is a wonder this car drove; and a miracle that it did not catch fire.
I originally looked into purchasing a full set of replacement harnesses... but these things cost $2-300. My order would have quickly gone over $1000. With the gas tank repair still to be paid, I think I am going to rebuild the harness from the connector on.
I still have to order a replacement wiper motor and some vacuum components. The wiper motor is from a later corvette and has no provision for vacuum-operated door. It is no wonder that the wipers kept on slamming into the door.
I ran into another snag.
One of these was the ignition wire... twisted together. It is a wonder this car drove; and a miracle that it did not catch fire.
I originally looked into purchasing a full set of replacement harnesses... but these things cost $2-300. My order would have quickly gone over $1000. With the gas tank repair still to be paid, I think I am going to rebuild the harness from the connector on.
I still have to order a replacement wiper motor and some vacuum components. The wiper motor is from a later corvette and has no provision for vacuum-operated door. It is no wonder that the wipers kept on slamming into the door.
unfortunately that type of electrical wire, repair work is almost a fore gone expectation with a close to 50 year old car,
but with patience and a decent 350 -400 watt solder gun and some, flux, lead/tin solder and shrink tube its repairable,
just be sure to slip on the shrink tube insulation, and clean and flux the connections before soldering
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...stimated-costs-are-shocking.11874/#post-56312
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/#post-68805
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/heat-shrink-tubing.1443/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-33363
but with patience and a decent 350 -400 watt solder gun and some, flux, lead/tin solder and shrink tube its repairable,
just be sure to slip on the shrink tube insulation, and clean and flux the connections before soldering
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...stimated-costs-are-shocking.11874/#post-56312
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-auto-elecrtrical-connectors.3105/#post-68805
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/heat-shrink-tubing.1443/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/testing-an-alternator.3222/#post-46703
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...urrent-flow-grounds-and-more.3504/#post-33363
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I screwed that one up a few times...
On other hand I am looking FW to taking my time to repair this...
Sure wish you were close by!!!
I have 1500 feet of different size (10 to 16 awg) and color of wire with a GXL insulation. Also all
the Deutsch DM and DTM connectors, spade and ring connectors, shrink tubing in every size
imaginable, braided sheath and zip ties in 4 colors. I have way more than I needed for the TBucket.
.
.
I have 1500 feet of different size (10 to 16 awg) and color of wire with a GXL insulation. Also all
the Deutsch DM and DTM connectors, spade and ring connectors, shrink tubing in every size
imaginable, braided sheath and zip ties in 4 colors. I have way more than I needed for the TBucket.
.
.
I was going to put a cut-off switch on the battery's positive side before any other circuits, but I ran
out of space. Never the less, you can see where I would have installed the cut-off switch. The switch
is not labeled, but it's right next to the 200 amp fuse.
It's got to carry the starter's max current, plus the other active circuits without tripping, but small
enough that it will trip when there is a short in the positive battery cable. I bought a Powermaster
9526 starter and it comes with a dyno graph showing current, each one is tested.
out of space. Never the less, you can see where I would have installed the cut-off switch. The switch
is not labeled, but it's right next to the 200 amp fuse.
It's got to carry the starter's max current, plus the other active circuits without tripping, but small
enough that it will trip when there is a short in the positive battery cable. I bought a Powermaster
9526 starter and it comes with a dyno graph showing current, each one is tested.
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I was thinking the same. #impressed
????
I found where the response to my email to PowerMaster said it would draw 175 - 225 amps. You
might wonder why only a 200 amp Mega Fuse then, shouldn't it blow nearly every time I start
the car. There is a rating for fuses called "Time-Current Characteristic". If you look at the example
below you can see that it would take 400 amps for 5 seconds to blow the fuse. If there is a direct
short the Odyssey PC 680 battery is capable of 1800 amps. If that happened it would only take
less than 0.01 seconds for the fuse to blow.
Also you want the fuse/relay/disconnect to be as close to the battery as possible. The longer the
battery cable before the relay, the more chance it has of rubbing on metal and shorting out.
might wonder why only a 200 amp Mega Fuse then, shouldn't it blow nearly every time I start
the car. There is a rating for fuses called "Time-Current Characteristic". If you look at the example
below you can see that it would take 400 amps for 5 seconds to blow the fuse. If there is a direct
short the Odyssey PC 680 battery is capable of 1800 amps. If that happened it would only take
less than 0.01 seconds for the fuse to blow.
Also you want the fuse/relay/disconnect to be as close to the battery as possible. The longer the
battery cable before the relay, the more chance it has of rubbing on metal and shorting out.
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I need to clarify a few statements. The more I look at my drawings again, the more I'm remembering.
PowerMaster also said they didn't like a fuse in the starter circuit because of the voltage drop. If you look
at my drawing, there is no fuse for the starter. The 200 amp fuse protects the alternator. My comments
about the current vs time to blow a fuse would still be true. No matter what you are protecting, you would
want to consider those parameters when sizing the fuse to be used.
About where you put the fuse ...... Closer to the battery is correct, but if you have a short before the fuse
(between battery and fuse), then you are bypassing the fuse and not protected. But if the short is after the
fuse, then the current flows thru the fuse and it blows .... saving the car.
Now next time I have to remember not to let my mouth run, before it checks in with my brain.
PowerMaster also said they didn't like a fuse in the starter circuit because of the voltage drop. If you look
at my drawing, there is no fuse for the starter. The 200 amp fuse protects the alternator. My comments
about the current vs time to blow a fuse would still be true. No matter what you are protecting, you would
want to consider those parameters when sizing the fuse to be used.
About where you put the fuse ...... Closer to the battery is correct, but if you have a short before the fuse
(between battery and fuse), then you are bypassing the fuse and not protected. But if the short is after the
fuse, then the current flows thru the fuse and it blows .... saving the car.
Now next time I have to remember not to let my mouth run, before it checks in with my brain.
Well it's (Odyssey PC-680 Battery) in the version 13 drawing ...... Ok, maybe it wasn't that funny!
Holy crap! No. I hadn’t noticed that one! That’s hilarious. My kids call me OCD. Sorry my friend but you’re a whole other level. And I mean that in a good way. It’s very inspiring. I want my covette to be as clean as your T-bucket.