The Inevitable Build Thread

NewbVetteGuy said:
Ok I found where the Aussie guy told me.
He DID use the SPD flanges for GM Fastburn heads. http://www.spdexhaust.com/pdfs/HeadFlanges/SBC_OEM.pdf
C83532

He said that he still had to slot the bolt holes (because Profiler was dumb and didn't center the bolt holes on the port.)

If you could figure out how much the port has been raised, you MIGHT be able to ask them to build that gasket with the hole move DOWN on the header the same amount to compensate. (Or possibly they'd let you take a rubbing of the heads and mail that to them and have them position the hole to match the heads.) ---That's assuming they'd be willing to adjust the CNC programming for the bolt holes just for you buying a single flange...

I know you're excited about the Profilers and I don't want you to spin on more things to think about, BUT... It was hard to get the intake pushrod off of the intake port wall with a "regular" one-piece guideplate and still have all the rockers pointed straight at the valve tips and that was with the 195cc profilers. If the increase in the 210cc profiler's intake ports come from additional width, that challenge might get bigger. Definitely check to make sure no pushrods are rubbing. I used a dremel and a dremel sandpaper flapper to add more clearance there but the walls can be thin.

The alternative becomes split guide plates or offset rockers, and then split guide plates officially require welding. (One company makes a weld-free split guideplate but $$$ from what I remember.)

Profiler PROBABLY sets them up correctly so they won't rub. (I bought mine rebranded through Jegs and Jegs installed their own hardware and set them up themselves, Jegs was NOT super careful. Profiler-assembled heads would probably be better.)


Adam
Click to expand...
This is super helpful. Thank you for looking into and telling me all this. Profiler seems to have made good heads that are a pain in the ass to work into your build.
 
Indycars said:
Normally a block is bored to within a few thousand's of the required size and then the honing is done to set the precise clearance on the piston. If it's already been fitted to some pistons, then I'm not sure how this will work out. The pistons may or may not fit properly. At the very least the cylinder walls need to be honed enough to break the glaze and provide the right surface for the rings during break-in.

Is this an engine that is running and has a .030" over bore now???
How many miles on the engine???
.
Click to expand...
I'm going to order .030 pistons after measuring them. I'll hoan them at home, I've had a few people online tell me that little imperfections in the cylinder wall won't destroy my build. Not worth boreing over to .040.

I also thought you could "fine tune" the fitment when you selected piston rings? As in get slightly bigger or smaller rings for the piston to help with all that. Is that incorrect?
 
arlowf said:
I also thought you could "fine tune" the fitment when you selected piston rings? As in get slightly bigger or smaller rings for the piston to help with all that. Is that incorrect?
Click to expand...
No ! ..... Go back to post #98 on Page 5, piston to cylinder wall clearance is important.

The ring end gap has nothing to do with how the piston fits in the cylinder. Also unless you order rings that are "File to Fit", the end gap will be much too wide.
 
Indycars said:
No ! ..... Go back to post #98 on Page 5, piston to cylinder wall clearance is important.

The ring end gap has nothing to do with how the piston fits in the cylinder. Also unless you order rings that are "File to Fit", the end gap will be much too wide.
Click to expand...

Okay, sorry, I was given information earlier by other people about using "bigger rings" to help with piston fit.
And i thought the rule of thumb was go too wide rather than too close; because if the rings ever touch after they heat up you're looking at catastrophic failure.
 
arlowf said:
And i thought the rule of thumb was go too wide rather than too close; because if the rings ever touch after they heat up you're looking at catastrophic failure.
Click to expand...
True, you darn sure don't want the ends to touch or bad things can happen. But on the other hand off the shelf rings have way too much end gap. There is a middle ground that is far closer and still safe.

Sorry for sounding snippy, but you wee starting to go rogue again! LOL!!! :)
 
arlowf said:
Patiently waiting on Northern Auto Parts to respond to my email about customizing the pieces in the kit.
Click to expand...
Might require a phone call and then it usually requires re-sending the email cause the person on the phone can't find it. :)

Good luck!!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top