Walde's -86 L98

Re: Walde's L98

Thanks guys. :cool:

There are numerous muffler topics on all forums but they still leave me without a clue:

What would be good performance muffler which would not produce drone?

Also, I would not mind if the car would have a bit different sound ie. as far away from the sound of straight pipes but preferably a bit raspy, kinda like Italian sound, if you know what I mean. Sort of like on the Iso Grifo here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0R0qZAo1lfg

Well, perhaps that was a bit too loud. :lol:
 
Re: Walde's L98

ooohh those are pretty...I want some!! Borla Mufflers sound nice, So do Magnaflow, Corsa is a matter of preference but I think they sound Euro, I dont have mufflers, And its fun but It gets annoying sometimes.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Right. It's winter and time to get some parts.

As it seems that there's not enough funds for heads and such I'm concentrating in taking care of the oil leaks and sensors and such.

As far as I can tell I will need:

  • manifold and runner gaskets
    head gaskets (while I'm there)
    oil pan gasket
    exhaust gaskets
    throttlebody (shaft sticks)
    TPS
    each engine related sensor that has effect on how it runs
    AC compressor (bearings really noisy)
    harmonic balancer
    water pump
    hoses
    timing set
    etc.

That's about it. The idea is to take care of the engine room once and for all and not having to worry about something to crap out while on the road.
 
Re: Walde's L98

I guess Fel Pro manifold and runner gaskets?

Valve cover gaskets Fel Pro Z 1628 ie. blue rubber stuff?

Something similar for oil pan?

What about the electrical stuff ie. sensors and such? Standard or AC Delco or something else?
 
Re: Walde's L98

Hello.

Got some parts in but a lot needs to be ordered still. Slowly getting up to speed.

I need to get a harmonic balancer. Or actually I want to get a new one.

For an L98 it's internal and neutral balance, right?

At the moment it seems that I won't be needing SFI rated balancer. Which brand to get and which brands to avoid? Just thinking about precision in machining and timing marks etc.
 
Re: Walde's L98

yes its " an L98 it's internal and neutral balance," but if your going to be balancing the rotating assembly you'll want to have the FULL complement of the rotating assembly components balanced.
a stock damper has an elastic ring glued between and inner and outer cast steel hub, that allows the outer hub to rotate/accelerate or decelerate a degree or two faster or slower than the inner hub to absorb crank impulse loads induced on the crank as the cylinders fire but they are designed to maximize the effect in the 2500rpm-4500rpm range where stock engines spend 99% of their time. and are far less effective above 4500rpm, than some of the other designs, keep in mind the SFI rated balancers won,t tend to fragment at high rpms like the O.E.M. designs occasionally do when the elastomer ring degrades or the outer hub fractures
the problem most guys have is almost all dampers look very similar, so they can,t see why some dampers cost $5 and some cost $400, the reason is that the more expensive designs cost a good deal more to manufacture and are designed to function at any engine rpm, while the less expensive designs only work great at a single rpm range and on the cheaper designs thats usually in the 3500rpm-4000rpm band, there are thousands of engines, running for years without problems with the less expensive elastomer ring dampers and if you'll rarely reach or exceed about 6000rpm theres no huge need to invest in an expensive damper on a basic transportation engine. but the more expensive SFI rated dampers DO have a PLACE, in that they are FAR LESS likely to come apart at high rpms, and they tend to promote longer bearing life on engines that are frequently used at high rpms and under high shock loads

Ive had very good results with the FLUID DAMPER BALANCERS

CUT_AWAY.jpg

http://www.fluidampr.com/

Viscous dampers past present and future (from the fluid damper site)

The best dampers on the market are manufactured in the U.S.A. by Horschel Motorsports, an ISO 9001:2008 certified facility. Horschel Motorsports is continuing the tradition that started in 1946, when the first viscous damper was invented. Over 4 million viscous dampers have been made for heavy duty diesel, drag car, stock car, street machine, race boat and other high performance engines. Looking into the future, Horschel Motorsports promises to manufacture the best dampers available as well as engineering new solutions for developing engine technologies.

The fluid in a Fluidampr…

It has been rumored that the fluid in a Fluidampr turns to gel over time. Here’s a news flash, its gel when we pump it into the damper. That is how the technology works. The silicone gel inside the damper keeps the flywheel in place and functioning. So to put all of the competitions claims to rest, it is a gel, always and forever. Maybe we should have named them Geldamprs .

Let’s talk about rubber

Other dampers on the market use rubber or “elastomer” as the insulator for the internal flywheel. Rubber deteriorates and wears down from repeated movements. In layman’s terms, the more you work it, the weaker it will get. The inertia ring that balances an elastomeric damper becomes unstable when the o-rings start to wear. Think of it this way, what does a car wheel feel like when it looses one of its balancing weights? How would a fan missing a blade function? A damper with worn o-rings can unbalance a crankshaft and destroy it.

The reason car manufactures install elastomer dampers at the factory is not for performance but for cost. The “rubber” dampers are cheaper and easier to make.

heres a decent street balancer
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLU-670100/


heres the SFI version I used on my 383 sbc nitrous engine
bal3.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLU-720101/


bal2.jpg

you can but a much cheaper balancer, but it won,t be nearly as effective
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-80000/?rtype=10
bal1.jpg


related threads you should read

http://www.fluidampr.com/DOWNLOADS/CATA ... VROLET.pdf

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=562&p=1811&hilit=dampers+work#p1811

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=3554&p=9433&hilit=harmonic+balancer#p9433

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=3900&p=10338&hilit=harmonic+balancer#p10338

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1804&p=4620&hilit=+harmonic+balancer#p4620

viewtopic.php?f=53&t=141&p=175&hilit=+harmonic+balancer#p175
 
Re: Walde's L98

Thanks for the info.

I don't think under $220,- for a street Fluidampr is that bad.

On the other hand this one would be just a bit under $300 and be SFI rated, just in case.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLU-620101/

I still don't me putting a stroker kit ever to this engine so the latter Fluidampr would work in my every scenario, I guess.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Id verify the standard timing chain set will fit with the cam manufacturer you select with the cam you select, just to be sure, but in most cases the standard retro-fit roller cam will work fine with that cloyes timing chain set,with the required timing tab lock plate and cam button

(don,t forget to buy and install the nylon cam button and locking tab)

cambutton.jpg

this button is improperly installed as its missing the lock plate


buttonretainer.jpg



hrs-94550_w.jpg


youll really want to use a cam retainer lock plate, over the cam button and under the three cam bolts to hold the cam button into the timing gears, and lock the bolts from getting loose

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=1793&p=4553&hilit=cam+nylon+button#p4553
 
Re: Walde's L98

Thanks for the info.

It may very well be so that I will use current stock cam and iron heads and just ensure that possible mechanical gremlins - such as the original timing chain set - are not the reason for ending up stranded on the road somewhere.

I'm overkilling everything all the time... :oops:
 
Re: Walde's L98

With reference to timing chain kits:

There's too much alternatives available: iron, steel, iron/steel, billet sprockets etc. etc.

Some of the sets include a Torrington thrust bearing. Is that something you need to use with a retro-fit roller cam even if you use the cam button or just an extra option?

What is your opinion on using such a thrust bearing for street?
 
Re: Walde's L98

a properly installed roller cam with a cloyes true roller timing set and a nylon cam button with a lock plate is all thats required,(just remember to check the end play "cams forward to rearward movement" with the timing cover and cam button installed) (it should be about .007-.010 thou)
 
Re: Walde's L98

The shopping list has become so long that it starts to look that cam, heads and intake will have to be postponed until next winter - unless something happens fundswise.

I need a new throttle body. The TPIS tb is an exchange unit so that's not going to happen. Are the BBK throttle bodies of good quality? The 52 mm is $ 320,- and should flow enough for future needs too, I reckon.

1534_52mm_throttle_body_1985_1988_gm_bbk_performance_parts-398x.jpg
 
Re: Walde's L98

WHY do you need a new throttle body? the stock one will easily support over 475-500 hp PLUS
now that's not the same thing as saying theres at least potentially ,not a few extra hp available with a larger throttle body, but the stock throttle body is hardly the restriction the larger size throttle body manufacturers tend to make you think it is so they can sell those larger throttle body's, the stock throttle body's one of the least restrictive components

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=641
 
Re: Walde's L98

Sorry, should have mentioned that the reason for this is because the original tb is worn out and sticks partly open because of loose shaft - leaves idle sometimes as high as 1700 rpm.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Yet another basic question, this time about the compression ratio:

I'm getting mixed information from various sources on the net. Can you confirm on a 1986 iron headed Corvette if:

- original chamber size of the heads is 75 or 65 cc?
- original compression ratio is 9.5:1?

I have been under impression that the stock chamber size is 65 cc. If it is actually 75cc and 9.5:1 and I would get 65cc AFR heads then new CR would be close to 10.5:1 and that's too much.

Any solid info on this?

EDIT: Some info says these heads are # 462624 and have 75...76cc chambers and 9.0:1 CR.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Oh crap...65cc heads are then out because of too high CR. :cry:

Thanks for the info.
 
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