Walde's -86 L98

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

I doubt youll see any significant boost in power with the increase in TB flow rates, as a 835cfm can easily feed more than 500hp, but a 1000cfm won,t hurt much either, because MPFI injectors spray at the intake ports in the heads and the computer controls the a/f ratio and the port and runner cross section, displacement, cam timing , ignition advance curve and compression, and exhaust back pressure, has more to do with throttle response.
yes its true you might find its a bit less responsive at lower rpms but the difference will more than likely be small enough that only a dyno print out of both throttle bodys compared would show it
given the choice Id select the smaller tb size UNLESS I was going to use NITROUS in the future

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Pretty much what I was thinking, too. I will never ever use nitrous and would like this to be plug and play build ie. once it's complete it'll just be service and driving, no more parts swapping.

Jon Banner of Corvette Injectors recommended 32 lbs injectors for my mild build. CFM size difference between those two TBs is about 28%. Perhaps the bigger TB would require bigger injectors, too.

Ordered the FIRST with smaller tb.

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Right. This time I need to get a distributor as the old one is, well, old.

Ecklers has this -> #33144. According to Ecklers tech support it is a DUI 12611.

Do you think this would suit my sub-6000 rpm needs well or would some other product be better - as usual, I have no idea what kind of quality or reputation DUI products have.

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

I try to never give advice on things I personally have not tried or
at least had a few friends try, and in this case I have to plead no experience either good or bad with that particular product.
but Ive never heard anything bad either so that's a big plus in their favor, because if it was total crap you generally hear about it!
it appears to be basically a modified HEI and almost all of the better brands and conversions work fine up to at least 6000rpm so Id bet youll be ok
Ive used
VERTEX MAGNETOS,
STOCK and MODIFIED HEI
MALLORY
ACCELL
MSD
CRANE
HOLLEY
SUMMIT
TAYLOR
PERTRONIX
IGNITIONS, and components
you might want to read these links
Ive always preferred the small diam. distributors with separate ignition coils as they allow you much greater flexibility in both intake manifold and ignition box selection

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=2798&p=7622#p7622

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=3438

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=430

viewtopic.php?f=70&t=855&p=8931&hilit=holley+ignition#p8931

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-1 ... |Year|1985

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Thanks.

I was considering the small cap distributor but I really would prefer to keep modifications to the minimum. And the DUI along with Proform was the only one Summit listed for me.

Maybe an -86 is considered obsolete and other manufacturers don't offer distributors for these anymore - I don't know.

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

:idea:

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

everyone Ive seen post results, has been impressed with that intake

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1509&p=10297&hilit=+port+runners+plenum+first#p10297

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Most likely won't have the engine/car ready this summer but there's always the next one.

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

FWIW, engine made 507 lb-ft@3900 rpm and 461 hp@5600 rpm SAE at the crank yesterday. This was with Edelbrock Performer RPM, 750 cfm carb and headers with 1 5/8" primaries. No chance to run with EFI on the dyno.

Please bear in mind that this build is intended for everyday use with 4+3 manual trans.

A clip on buddy's Youtube account:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYcObg7AG2o

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

could you post a list of the components you used ,in your final dyno tested combo, that resulted in the dyno print above in that engine as it was built and tested?
we discussed several options, in this thread, and I'm sure many guys would like to know exactly what combo was tested here!

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Don't have the part numbers stored but mainly following shopping list:
- Summit block 383" SUM-150100
- Eagle H-profile rods
- Eagle forged crank
- Wiseco Pro Tru pistons, appr. 10.5:1
- AFR 180 L98 65 cc heads
- Melling 10554 oil pump
- ATI Super Damper
- Canton 15-240T oil pan
- Crane 109671 cam HR-216/339-25-12.90 IG
- Crane lifters etc.
- Comp Cams 1601-16 rockers 1.52:1

etc.

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.p ... il&p=24204

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1509&p=10297&hilit=+port+runners+plenum+first#p10297

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=5078

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=38

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2294&p=13460#p13460

heres that cam,(above) notice its not that radical and the heads used were really good heads but not overly large ports, so while he potentially lost a few peak hp, because the ports get restrictive in the upper rpm range , he gained a very impressive torque curve right where the cars gearing can use it,because thats exactly what that set of heads and cam are designed to produce, swapping to a slightly longer duration cam would obviously produce better PEAK hp numbers but the current build is almost ideal for an impressive street car with good manors and the ability to smoke tires easily

CONGRATULATIONS on building what I'm sure will be an engine and car combo you can have years of fun with


one lesson most guys don,t usually learn right away, that I constantly try to point out is that buying a few CAREFULLY SELECTED,QUALITY COMPONENTS usually is a far better route to take when building an engine than buying a greater number of lower quality components, like a decent roller cam, heads and a good low restriction exhaust

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

CONGRATULATIONS on building what I'm sure will be an engine and car combo you can have years of fun with

Thanks Grumpy, much appreciate advises and comments from you and fellow forum members.

I went shopping today.

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Right. Next item is oil. :mrgreen:

My builder has 30+ years of experience with these engines and he recommends for this engine in a Vette mineral 20W-50 motor oil. Engine was broken in with the Quaker State shown below and there were no signs of too high oil pressure. I'm considering adding an oil cooler with thermostat.

My question is as follows:
considering builder's advise of using mineral 20W-50 motor oil the following couple of alternatives are available here. For me they all look alike as products. Do any stand out as a better product? Synthetic 15/20W-50 oils are rare here.

All four first products cost about the same. Brad Penn here costs over twice as much. Price on the other hand is not deciding factor here.

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

the main factor here is CHANGING THE OIL AND FILTER REGULARLY
personally Id select any of the last three and a good oil filter and swap oil and filter every 4K-5K miles
your running a roller cam so your not nearly as concerned with additive packages, its just temperature and keeping the pan filled
Quaker state and penns-oil have high paraffin content which eventually tends to cause sludge build-up if you forget to change oil frequently just a little faster than the other brands from what Iver seen.

ID HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH SHELL ROTELA, KENDAL GT, OR MOBILE 1 EITHER




RELATED INFO
viewtopic.php?f=54&t=1334&p=16625&hilit=oils+symbol#p16625

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[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Thanks, Grumpy.

I have been reading about the paraffin contents of QS/Pennzoil and the possible sludge/wax problem has been in my thoughts a lot lately. Valvoline VR1 would be perhaps easiest logistically as that's what I'm running in my BMW K1100LT.

Rotella is not available here and the Shell diesel engine oils (called Rimula) do not have gasoline classifications at all. Mobil 1 here is either 5W-30 or 0W-40.

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

when selecting oil,for your engine, thinner viscosity oils pump with less effort and transfer heat away from bearings and the valve train faster so within reasonable limits thinner oil provides better protection, but you MUST maintain adequate film strength naturally, keep in mind the gauge pressure indicates is mostly the result of RESISTANCE TO FLOW thru the engine bearing clearances
you don,t really care what it is cold but once its up to operational temperatures of about 200F -210F oil temp it should ideally be thick enough (HIGH ENOUGH VISCOSITY) to maintain about 15-20 PSI at idle and gain about 10 psi per 1000rpm up to about 60-65 psi, theres nothing gained if the pressures higher it just puts additional strain on the oil pump and cam gears

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

Flat broke but who cares. :mrgreen:

FIRST vs. TPI

 

[grumpyvette]

Re: Walde's L98

FIRST vs. TPI

I sure wish you had not deleted several previously posted pictures

 

[Walde]

Re: Walde's L98

I sure wish you had not deleted several previously posted pictures

Well, you had already seen them and nobody else is interested in this matter.