Walde's -86 L98

Re: Walde's L98

Walde said:
Oh crap...65cc heads are then out because of too high CR. :cry:
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Well, it depends...

Having searched the net for information on various details I stumbled yesterday onto someone saying that on early -86 L98 with iron heads the head gasket would have been as thin as 0.015".

I don't have any literature to check this nor does any of my friends have this info. Can you confirm if this thickness (thinness) of the original head gaskets is correct, please?
 
Re: Walde's L98

Not being able to find out the original head gasket thickness info I'm unable to determine chamber size of the new heads, then cam kit nor the intake. What's left to do is to go with the original plan of -> original post as I cannot afford to invest this kind of sums based on my guessing on such engine details.

Well, at least I'm saving about four thousand dollars now. :idea:
 
Re: Walde's L98

On a summertime daily driver would I need heads with heat crossover?

Is the function of the heat crossover just to heat up the intake manifold?
 
Re: Walde's L98

"And now for something completely different."

Rockauto rules. :mrgreen:

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Re: Walde's L98

Walde said:
On a summertime daily driver would I need heads with heat crossover?

Is the function of the heat crossover just to heat up the intake manifold?
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many performance intakes don,t have that cross over port to heat the intake plenum, most of the intakes designed for street use do,
at engine start-up,the heat cross over, heats the intake runners, while the engines cold.
hot intake runners tend to keep the fuel droplets in vapor form and reduce emissions and make the fuel/air mix burn a bit better at low speeds, until the lower engine components heat up.
once the engine reaches operating temps of about 180F-210F the cross over doesn,t really serve any useful purpose , in fact it tends to still heat the intake charge and that may add slightly to the engines tendency to get into detonation.
once the engines up to operating temperature a cooler intake charge tends to allow a higher power level, thats why many guys use a thin strip of steel to block the heat cross over ports
Ive seen guys use ROOFING tin caps slipped under the intake over the gasket ports on both sides as readily available cross over blockers

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notice the edelbrock 7101 designed for street use has it

7501.jpg

notice the edelbrock 7501 designed for racing does not
 
Re: Walde's L98

That makes some sense even to my thick skull. I would think that with especially C4 the engine warms up so soon that it really does not have a noticeable effect on things - and that parcel of ore in the engine bay keeps things warm constantly.

It's been interesting to notice that some manufacturers have it and some don't.

AFR
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Brodix RR
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What has also been interesting to see is that just when I think I have found my reasonably priced street aluhead I soon notice that they are not available with angled plugs. This happened for example with Edelbrock E-street and Brodix IK. Ah well, it's just another

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Re: Walde's L98

Well, been working a bit every day and finally got to this point today:

No marks on cylinder walls and no step on top of the cylinder either. Quite lot of deposit on pistons but I blame myself for that. :oops:

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Heads are indeed the iron heads 462624 and they need to go.

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Something funky (color) going on with the valves at far right?
 
Re: Walde's L98

Walde said:
kansi.jpg


Something funky (color) going on with the valves at far right?
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looks like that cylinder was not firing/burning efficiently, posibly a fouled plug or bad cam lobe, bad ignition?
 
Re: Walde's L98

grumpyvette said:
looks like that cylinder was not firing/burning efficiently, posibly a fouled plug or bad cam lobe, bad ignition?
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Maybe a bit of all of those and perhaps dirty injector(s) as well. Injectors seemed to have some goo-type stuff on them.
 
Re: Walde's L98

Hey.

I was cold testing my Melrose headers on the 462624 straight plug heads to see if I could get perhaps a set of Brodix IK 180 heads or something similar.

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#1 is close. Probably #2 as well. Would I be burning a lead/boot each day with straight plug heads or is this something I could get by with for example some kind of protective "sleeve" on the lead?

Man, why cannot they just make an angle plug IK 180. :?:
 
Re: Walde's L98

About flywheel and clutch:

Flywheel as far as I can tell is a 153 teeth version. I need to get a clutch kit for the engine. And I need it fairly quick ie. I would need to order it tomorrow.

With a healthy 383" how much clutch do I actually need with a car which will never see drag strip?

For example these are available:

Zoom MU1911-1

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-MU1911-1/

zzz-mu561_w.jpg


would this last OK or would I need something like this Zoom HP1911-1?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-HP1911-1/

zzz-hp1675-1a.jpg


Would this latter one be OK for a daily driver or would this type of clutch have drawbacks in terms of longevity etc.?

Would you recommend something else reasonably priced (250...400 $) clutch kit?
 
Re: Walde's L98


Grumpy,

I noticed that your example was a Borg & Beck styles, as opposed to the diaphragm. Do the diaphragms still have the problem where the clutch pedal stays on the floor until the RPMs drop ???
 
Re: Walde's L98

Indycars said:

Grumpy,

I noticed that your example was a Borg & Beck styles, as opposed to the diaphragm. Do the diaphragms still have the problem where the clutch pedal stays on the floor until the RPMs drop ???
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most diaphragm clutch designs work reasonably well, but Ive always preferred the Borg & Beck style

viewtopic.php?f=71&t=447
 
Re: Walde's L98

The FIRST intake manifold is now available with an optional 76 mm 1070 cfm throttlebody vs. the std 71 mm 835 cfm one.

Would the bigger 1070 cfm TB have any kind of negative effect on for example low RPM torque by possible loss of flow speed or such?

This would be on a 383".
 
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