496ci revamped

always a good idea to try it out, it might provide what your looking for and its going to take well under 45 minutes for any decent mechanic to swap it out to test it out.
you might be surprised, keep in mind software dynos are rarely exact, and you might find the result quite different than predicted (much better or worse)
 
JohnHancock said:
Clinton Foundation Money should go tomorrow National Debt repayment!
Click to expand...

Grumpy said:
always a good idea to try it out, it might provide what your looking for and its going to take well under 45 minutes for any decent mechanic to swap it out to test it out.
you might be surprised, keep in mind software dynos are rarely exact, and you might find the reult quite different than predicted
Click to expand...

Most of us old guys in bad health can't get it done in a day.
 
I wish I was local, Id have it done for you in under an hour.
decades of practice , and air ratchets, timing lights and knowing how to go about the swap, process doesn,t hurt .
little things like turning the damper to TDC and indexing the distributor rotor
,before you start, having labeled ignition wires etc helps,
as does having the correct intake gaskets on hand.
 
Nice thing is I port match intake already
And knifed the webs, so it's set timing to tdc drain some coolant pop it apart
I will get afr gaskets because they match
The ports already,
Belt drive might come into play
I have some room piston to valve clearance so I can advance or retarded
By a few degrees if need be.
I'm still not convinced 100% cam needs to be 4deg advanced. I know that the cam card says intake cl 108 deg
So what I'm going to do is Torque converter first drive it around,
Then intake swap drive it
Then adjust cam timing and see
What difference it makes.
 
If I was closer I would send my 19 year old young pup over, he loves wrenching on stuff.

Starting not to have much room for people mechanically inclined anymore.
 
Got off the phone with Howard's camshaft.
Time to tweak it.
that's why I put a belt drive on it.
I told him what was going on
He suggested single plane intake as Grumpy did and to retard the cam a couple of degrees at a time
His comment was it needs to breathe
As Brian suggested and feel it should make 700 hp and 650 lbs of torque
On a 496ci and that cam, he mentioned
With all the other little things I did and heads I'm running it could be more
For both torque and HP.
But those numbers are pretty common
Across the board.

But he suggested to do it in stages
Single plane intake first
Run it, then adjust cam timing 2 degrees at a time in the retarded direction
And find where it's happy at.

Oh I forgot he did say that number
Is based on at least 10.5 compression
Which I'm at 11.2
 
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that sounds like sound advice!
Ive always found installing cams at split overlap(strait up) was a good start point,
(thats generally 4 degrees retarded from the dot-to-dot location)
obviously check all clearances with every change made


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ectly-and-get-it-to-last-cam-install-info.90/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-degreeing.9010/#post-32126

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-cam-and-shifting-the-lca.10553/#post-44949

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...compression-torque-dcr.1070/page-2#post-52809

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/need-to-know-how-to-install-a-tq-converter.386/#post-473

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-block-pushrod-guide-plates.4596/#post-18401

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-train-clearances-and-problems.528/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/checking-piston-to-valve-clearances.399/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-block-head-comparison.319/page-2#post-49217

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-12997



 
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Maniacmechanic1 said:
It's alot of weight to get moving.
4.56 -4.88 gears required I think.

670 Hp will net 130 mph trap speed.
10.30 ET
Click to expand...
Next year carbon fiber hood
And deck lid + spoiler
Knock off a few pounds
Plan is to paint it flat hot rod black and leave the carbon fiber part natural 3k twill look

Wife asked me if I spending all this money on it why I'm not putting air conditioning in it... :eek:
 
Speedlink1973 said:
Next year carbon fiber hood
And deck lid + spoiler
Knock off a few pounds
Plan is to paint it flat hot rod black and leave the carbon fiber part natural 3k twill look

Wife asked me if I spending all this money on it why I'm not putting air conditioning in it... :eek:
Click to expand...
Kinda at the limit at what's practical and proven reliable.
Seen what Turbo Boost does.
Tremendous torque at 1000 ft/lbs on it.
Streetable yet.
To keep affordable need 350 -400 cub8c inches.
Like LS Guys with 5.3 & LSX B8 376.
1958 Pontiac 370 right size for 76 mm Turbo.
So is 1958 -1966 389.
Have 2 389s complete.
1959 and 1964.
And 1 4 bolt main 1961 389 block.
455 s also for N/A Power.
 
Speedlink1973 said:
Yes, and a dab around the shaft for seal
Click to expand...
Should feel 3 clicks installing.
Spin the Converter in by hand.
One hand on the Converter pilot.
Wear gloves.
Spin rapid and push.
Click. Click. Clunk.
Check.
Converter should just about touch the front pump or it will.
Fully seated.
Install the 4L80e back in your Camaro.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Should feel 3 clicks installing.
Spin the Converter in by hand.
One hand on the Converter pilot.
Wear gloves.
Spin rapid and push.
Click. Click. Clunk.
Check.
Converter should just about touch the front pump or it will.
Fully seated.
Install the 4L80e back in your Camaro.
Click to expand...
Yep instructions say once bell is bolted up there should be between 1/8" to 3/16" space between flexplate and converter
Other wise you can damage pump.
 
Running 1/4 mile Wallace Racing simulators again.
Saving & will post soon.
So you can see what I did 2 days ago.
I can only post so much from my phone on the go.
On my laptop now.
 
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