replacing a c-4 fuel pump

well the rubber fill neck boot, showed up (fedex) so I spliced soldered the required wires, to make a custom wire and connector patch from the two sets of electrical connectors and wires they shipped , both sets would not work, as both were missing the electrical connectors that the other set of wires and connectors had, that were REQUIRED, that were not on the other set! thus the custom cut and re-soldered wire fabrication was required, allowing the correct connectors and wiring, and used the shrink tube, over the custom soldered connections, to isolate and insulate as required,
and the result was I could start the corvette!
I purchase two types of injector cleaner and poured them in the fuel tank along with 10 gallons of fresh non-ethanol laced fuel,
as expected (crossed fingers) the corvette started right up and after about 3 minutes of idling a bit rough it smoothed out.
the only real issue is having had both my knees replaced Its no longer that easy for this particular old geezer,
to slide into a c4 corvette at 75 years ol
d and being much less flexible! :facepalm: :sad: :swearing:

still it's nice to see I still have the diagnostic skills to locate & cure issues and get the 1996 corvette running
(a good feeling)
after being forced to let the corvette be sitting for over a year at my sons home,
due to my dual knee replacement, knee surgery issues making it a P.I.T.A. to walk or stand for and considerable time,
(yes I did and oil and oil filter and fuel filter change before I replaced the fuel pump)
BTW
if you've never worked on a C4 corvettes fuel pump and purchase one don't be amazed and feel cheated when you pay for that in the tank mounted fuel pump and your shipped a pump that's about the size , or a bit smaller in length and not much bigger in diameter than that of two D-cell flashlight, batteries, I know the first time I saw the C4 fuel pump I thought it must be a mistake, I falsely assumed it would be about the size of a soda can...
you know as its a CORVETTE!
 
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Yes it always feels good when you get something fixed and it's probably better than original !
 
yeah its far better quality, and about 100% larger flow rate than OEM, and all the electrical connections got soldered.

btw I had someone mail me a rather interesting question,
they asked me why I did not simply use a (Y) fitting and fabbricate the required wiring and hose connections and purchase two of the US MOTOR WORKS rockauto fuel pumps, as they cost less with two pumps that come with wiring and fuel strainers and I surely had the skills and room to do that and I would have at least in theory had spent considerably less total cash and had a combined flow rate that would surely match or exceed the single fuel pump I installed?

this pump in theory pumps nearly triple the fuel volume of the stock OEM fuel pump in a c4 vette


110 GPH an even bigger improvement in flow but unlikely to be useful, over OEM


90 GPH a bigger improvement over OEM

67 GPH a big improvement over OEM


well the only real problem with that approach is that it would also draw noticeably more amps through the cars wiring and the fuel line size from the pumps to the fuel injector rail and through the one fuel filter is not all that large so I doubt the dual pumps would be all that beneficial, but it is an interesting idea! :like:






USEP3271_F_KIT.jpg

shopping


fuel line fitting's that restrict flow rates,
require larger fitting and fuel lines and maybe fuel pumps
simply swapping toa larger fuel pump WILL NOT curae all fuel supply issues
 
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keep in mind fuel pumps and the wiring are not running constantly and sloshing fuel tends to keep the components cool,
Just a question about this statement as it may have a bearing on my potential pump change.

If I need it, I’ve already investigated the Racetronix 255 lph pump with their C43 kits nice replacement components. While this pump is not nearly the higher capacity of some others, it is way stronger than my original 84 pump.


So while my fuel regulator will be keeping system pressure likely 13 or 14 or less, unless adjusted higher, it would seem that while the engine is running, this pump will not be stopping. If that is true, then there will be much greater flow. That excess flow not needed to retain the regulated pressure will be bypassed into the return line back to the tank.



So my question is will this have any deleterious effects on the fuel accumulator or fuel regulator or the rest of the fuel lines? Since it is flow that is not at a high pressure, I’m thinking, if anything, the fuel flow will be cooler as a result. But, if there was some mechanism to actually reduce the running frequency of the pump, as that initial statement indicates, then I think there would be increased flow only on demand to retain pressure, instead of constant flow, and of lesser concern for my upgrade.
 
it came with the fuel filter sock. the tank gasket, the mount bolts
the pump came with gaskets,the filter socks held to the pump with a star crimp on stud locking fastener, the sock needs to be carefully placed and aligned and you really DO need two large cable tye-wraps that were not included,
to lock the pump securely in place, and hold the rubber vibration/noise wrap in place plus reduce any tendency of the pump from working its way loose from the filter sock over time due to vibration, but I think most experienced corvette mechanics know the drill by now (that a few seconds spent adding security cable ties, reduces noise and loose connections, and pumps coming loose from filter socks or fuel lines)
cp-175-B.jpg

http://www.cabletiesplus.com/Produc...Cable-Ties-(175-lb)-(Black)__CP-18-175-B.aspx
Got my new 85 C4 Delphi fuel pump and new stainless sending unit. After playing around with the various grommets and vibration sleeves that many kits have, I found the combination that seems to create a reasonably stable pump inserted onto the hangar without metal to metal contact. But your comment about a lack of additional tie wraps or clamps to stabilize the pump further was also true.

So two questions follow: I question whether extra-heavy duty ties will not break down in gasoline/ethanol mixtures. I guess I can get a metal worm clamp of approximately 1/2 to 1 inch in width and long enough to encircle 7.5 inches of pump/insulation sleeve/hangar post, hopefully in stainless steel.

Secondly, never having put socks on previously, it appears they just push on. My yet to come Holley Hydramat sock will be on the intake end of my pump. I hope that also just pushes on. But your comment about “star crimp on stud locking fastener” is not something I’m familiar with.
Do I need to get extra tools to make that happen or is it likely nothing more needs to be done for sock security?
 
obviously you'll need to look over the components, but generally they are made to have some latitude of fudge factor and still fit and function with several similar components, look things over and make logical choices, and BTW the common heavy duty zip-ties (tie-wraps )don't dissolve in fuel



A good quality nylon tie will not dissolve in the gas, as a matter of fact, some cars use them there from the factory. On the other hand, not all ties are nylon. They make nice stainless steel zip ties to hold exhaust wrap on headers.
 
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your OEM c4 corvette fuel pump puts out in theory about 160p lph at about 42 psi or near 42 gph:facepalm:
better aftermarket pumps are available that put out 255,300, 420 lph :like:

your very unlikely to be able to effectively use over ,
the 255 lph fuel pump size on a mildly modified engine
AND there's zero chance you'll need over a 255 lph pump unless you've upgraded the injector size significantly from OEM stock 24 lb/hr fuel injector


you must match the size of the fuel injectors, and fuel pump used,
to the engines potential horsepower,
and air flow rates and fuel supply.







stock c4 corvette fuel injectors were designed for a 300hp engine
your stock fuel pump in a c4 corvette, in theory provides about 160 lph
or about enough for a 370hp engine(there are pumping losses due to fuel lines,fuel filters and fp regulators etc.)

A 24 lb/hr fuel injector can typically support around 280-360 horsepower on a naturally aspirated engine, and slightly less on an engine with a power adder like a turbocharger, depending on the specific engine setup and operating conditions

swapping to a significantly larger fuel pump without the required matching changes,
like larger fuel injectors, larger fuel lines, a better fuel filter,
better flowing heads
an upgraded cam, headers and exhaust system,
and better intake ,and upgraded drive train gearing changes ,
makes about as much sense as slapping extra performance parts decals on your car
, and expecting it to go significantly faster?? :facepalm:
 
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