468 build

it might produce good peak power but the milder roller cams almost certainly a better match to the application as average torque and instant response should be noticeably better with the milder roller, a flat tappet cam like that would not really wake up until about 4500rpm in your 468 with the components you previously listed.
with 38" tires youll need a good deal of mid rpm torque not just peak rpm power

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...u-thinking-about-your-potential-combos.14607/

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the reduced diameter of beehive valve springs usually eliminates the rocker too retainer clearance issue

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Well I think I'm convinced on the route to go. I wont toss anymore random cam numbers at you. These were the two new ones he had to choose from in his collection. He does lots of swap meets, I'll see what other goodies I can use. Thanks again
 
Motors off to the machine shop finally. Getting the block all cleaned up and cylinders honed as well. Pistons mounted and the short block assembled. I sent the roller cam I mentioned earlier to install also. The cdn dollar is pretty low and buying parts is pricey. I sent some dimple rods and truck rods to see if the price makes sense versus new rods. Stock crank will get polished up to use again too. I'm pretty stoked to get it back already!
 
I know that stoked feeling, remember quite well ! ADRENALINE RUSH when it
finally get back to you !

Remember that you still have to pressure wash and scrub the block with brushes,
also the in the oil passages anther 2-3 times once you get it back. Machining is a
dirty process. Even if they clean the block again after machining.

Also you will need the wipe the cylinder walls with a white paper towel and Marvel
Mystery Oil (MMO or very light oil) until the paper towel looks like you can eat off
of it !!!!!!!!! This might take 4-8 passes or maybe more, the key here is WHITE !!!
Then do it again !!!

The black you see is abrasive dust from the hone, your rings won't like it at all if it's
NOT COMPLETELY GONE. There is nothing as depressing as wearing out a new motor
in the first 30 minutes.
 
Hopefully it'll all be cleaned up because they're assembling it there. But yeah I'll be taking a close look at it to make sure anyway. I'll do some searching on here to get some head porting or polishing and intake matching tips.
 
so i traded my old intake and heads +$100 for some hydraulic roller lifters. not a bad deal. any suggestions for type of rocker arm to use and also spring type and pressures needed? i'm looking toward the comp roller tip rockers, they aren't incredibly expensive and they'll give it a little bit of hp too. slowly but surely i'll get this built. heads are getting taken apart and cleaned up this weekend, just planning on smoothing any casting marks
 
Thanks for the links, lots of good info. I've unshrouded the valves and cleaned those areas up. Also the oil returns got reamed out a bit too. I think I'll leave em like that for now and send them to the engine builders. If my compression is a little over 10.5:1, will pump gas still be ok?
 
I think you're a little light on the weight estimate. It has to be closer to 7,000 lbs not 4,500 to 5,000 lbs.
 
Thanks for all the info and suggestions, my motor is finally done! Here's the finished motor
454 .60 over 2 bolt
Cast crank
Truck rods
30cc hypertectic pistons
10.5:1 compression
Comp hyd roller cam xr288hr
Duration 236@50 110 lsa
288 in 294 exh
Crane roller rockers
990 rectangle port heads
Performer rpm dual plane intake
770 street avenger carb
All built and balanced at a good speed shop.
I'll get it dyno'd one day when I have more cash, any hp and torque guesses?
 
well? pictures of the engine install, and some comments on what you get out of the first test drive would be nice here!
 
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