468 build

The Best way to Monitor how the engine is doing is by reading spark plugs.
And by watching how much oil the engine consumes every 50-100 miles of driving.
If You eliminated the Oil dipstick and tube like Nearly every modern drag racer does here then also do a compression test and leakdown test.
Should see dead even numbers across the board on all 8 cylinders .
If the cylinder block bores were Platue honed then the rings should be broken in fully within 100 miles.

Modern synthetic oils are really good.
15,000 miles seems like a lot but its what Porsche & Ferrari recommends with synthetic oils of thier choice.
If the Carburator is tuned dead on then 5,000 mile oil change intervals with premium synthetic oil should be OK.

Mudtrucks see lots of grime.
I would change oil after every weekend of fun to be safe.
 
muddtruck said:
Yeah there's 15w40 in it right now. I was questioning because I've read lots of different things on break in time. As little as an hour in one link. That sounds like a good plan loves302chevy, thanks for the detailed reply
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Some even say to dump the break-in oil right after the 20 minute cam break-in is done.
You probably should change the oil filter, and cut the old one open to inspect for engine components
that might be wearing without you knowing about it until it's too late.
 
If you have an engine vacuum guage mounted in the dash or Console it tells you nearly all....must know what is Normal & Abormal readings.
 
I like dumping engine oil after 1st 20 minutes .
My preference .
Change oil again after 100 miles.
Then at 500 miles.
Then go 1,000-2,000 miles change again.
My old habits I prefer.
 
I'll check the oil filter and change it out. Inspect it make sure its clean. I pulled a plug after I took it on a 160 km highway ride yesterday. 20160519_180130_crop_315x203.jpg
 
muddtruck said:
Yeah there's 15w40 in it right now. I was questioning because I've read lots of different things on break in time. As little as an hour in one link. That sounds like a good plan loves302chevy, thanks for the detailed reply
Click to expand...
For decades the 500 mile break in was good enough for most all auto and truck manufactures and that changed when synthetic oil was introduced into production vehicles.
What method of "Break-in" procedure repeats it's self most often in the many peer review articles and the manufactures recommendations? I've owned many crate and custom built motors and never had any issues regarding "Break-in."
Maybe I'm just lucky? I can tell you I missed a few past the redline wot shifts (up shifting and down too) on brand new motors and lived to tell about them all. All I can say is I followed a common sense method for oils and additives and stayed away from over-kill. NASCAR has guidelines for sufficient motor break in which I noticed has been material for many of the trade mags and seems to be favored by many for street use.
 
Thanks again for the info, I'll get some other pictures and also read up on what to look for reading plugs
 
"Royal Purple HPS" already has a high content of ZDDP and is a full
synthetic oil. Needless t say that's what I'm using in my car after break-in.
I'm using 10w30 with .015 to .002 inches of clearance, unless you have
larger bearing clearances you don't need 15w40. There will be less flow
and therefore less heat will be carried away from the bearing.
 
Heavy Thick oils still have thier Place Rick.
They are still used for Dirt Track Racing, Truck Pulling, Mud Trucks.
Drag Racing Track Car Exclusively .
Air Cooled Engines Like a Big Twin Harley Davidson.

Oil Coolers and Radiators get plugged up immediately dirt track racing and Off Road Mud Trucks 4X4.

There are times like that when 5w30 10w30 & 10w40 are not good enough .
 
I recall Dirt Track Racing SBC Engines with my old Driver Steve.
We tried 10w30.
Water Temps 260-300 F
For 20-50 Laps on 95F-100F degree Summer Nights here in Illinois .
Dry Dust like a Desert.
Radiator fully plugged up with dirt.
RACE ON TO WIN.
15W40 THE HOT TICKET AND HELD 70-80 PSI AT 8,000 RPM.
 
I dumped the oil out yesterday. must've been a dark blend 15w40. Anyway I opened the oil filter and inspected it. Didn't see any shavings or scary stuff, that set my mind at ease. I filled it back up with some castrol gtx 10w40 and a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer. Motor's running great. I'll get a video clip on here, sounds mean. I'll keep putting km's on it until the July mud races. Thanks alot for all the great info on here!
 
your welcome and were always glad to help!
but Id suggest you not use the bottle of lucas oil stabilizer in the future, Ive never seen a test where it helped anything
 
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